Ask Pinkbike: 1x11 Options, Fork Bumper Placement, and Scott Gambler vs. Voltage
Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.
Which Drivetrain?
Question: Pinkbike user Peterglover asked this question in the all-mountain, enduro and cross-country forum: I'm thinking of changing the dual chain ring Deore drivetrain on my Santa Cruz to a 1 x 11 setup and I'm not sure which one works best. I've been looking in the classifieds, but I've also just seen that Shimano has their own 11-speed drivetrain out now. Which group performs the best?
 | The answer to your question is going to depend on what you mean when you say ''best'', with gearing range, backwards compatibility, and cost being some of the factors that you're going to have to consider. I've spent time on all of SRAM's 11-speed drivetrains, and you are not going to be disappointed in the shifting performance of any of them. If you're not one to get caught up with counting grams, it's hard to beat SRAM's least expensive (although still relatively pricey compared to a traditional drivetrain) 11-speed X1 group. It shifts just as well as XX1, and features most of the same technology. I've also been putting in some big miles on Shimano's latest 11-speed XTR group, and it shifts just as quickly and has been as trouble-free as any of the SRAM offerings. That said, Shimano's new 2x XTR crank features a proprietary 94/64mm bolt circle diameter that's offset from the norm, meaning you can't bolt on any of the aftermarket narrow/wide chain rings that are currently out there, and Shimano's own single ring solution isn't available quite yet. This is obviously going to be an issue if you're dead set on running a single ring crank, although it's easy enough to sub in a different crankset. Also, their 11-speed cassette sports a 11 - 40 tooth range, which isn't quite as wide as SRAM's 10 - 42 spread. Shimano's cassette doesn't require a special freehub, though, meaning that it'll fit on any rear wheel that already has a 10-speed cassette on it. An entire 11-speed drivetrain doesn't come cheap, and I think that I would personally lean towards saving some coin by going with one of the many conversion kits out there that allow you to fit a 40 or 42 tooth cog to the 10-speed cassette that you already own. I know that isn't quite what you asked about, but it's hard to ignore this option. OneUp Components offers everything you'd need to widen your gear range and lose the front derailleur, including both cogs, a narrow/wide chain ring, and the RAD cage for your Deore derailleur. Grand total? Under $200 USD! Shifting is 95% as good as anything from Shimano or SRAM, but your gearing range won't be quite as wide as what the latter offers. - Mike Levy |
Single ring drivetrains are here to stay, with more and more riders ditching the front derailleur in favour or a wider range cassette and one chain ring.
Fork Bumpers
Question: Pinkbike user Nikola99 asked this question in the Downhill Forum: Hi there, I couldn't find any information on the Internet so I am asking here. How shall I put my stanchion bumpers? I heard that they can dent my frame if they aren't mounted properly. Are they OK right now or I must lift them a little bit up so they can hit the top tube in case of crash?
| If there are no recommendations on the manufacturer's website or the bike's manual (who reads instructions anyways?) then you want to position the fork bumper on the widest part of the frame, which is usually the downtube; this will give you the most leeway in case of a crash and compressing the bumper into the frame before the stanchion strikes metal. If there is a gusset or weld in the region, letting the bumper strike here will be more resistant to dents than a standard, round tube. You also want to make sure you avoid your cables with the bumper, as crushing them could affect your shifting, or much worse your braking. You will need to do something serious or stupid to split a brake hose nowadays but it is a possibility and could lead to brake failure. Luckily for us, many manufacturers are catching on and phasing out these ugly, unreliable rubber bumpers that often move at an inconvenient time, integrating fork bumpers into the frame, and sometimes even incorporating cable retention and protection as well. - Paul Aston |
Getting your fork bumpers in the wrong place could lead to a void warranty, damaged cables or even an unsightly dent in your prized possession.
Scott Gambler vs. Voltage
Question: Pinkbike user sorenwrang asked this question in the Bikes, Parts, and Gear forum: I am thinking about buying either a Scott Gambler 720 or a Scott Voltage FR 720. The two bikes are similar in many ways. 27.5" wheels, coil fork and coil shock and similar frame geometry. The only major difference, that I can see, is the rear shock setup (linkage type). So how could I expect that the two bikes will feel and behave, compared to each other? Do you think the rear shock setup will make them feel very different?
| Although there are a few similarities between the Gambler and the Voltage, out on the trail they have noticably different personalities. With a longer wheelbase, 210mm of travel vs. the Voltage's 170 or 190mm, and a slacker head angle, the Gambler shines on burly, straight down the fall line types of trails, similar to what you'd find on the most technical stops of the World Cup. It takes an aggressive riding style to take advantage of the Gambler's capabilities, and at slower speeds the bike can feel like a handful. The Floating Linkage rear suspension design helps keep the bike glued to the ground, which is an asset for the extremely rough terrain it's designed for, but at the cost of requiring more effort to get airborne. Not that it can't jump - Nico Vink's monster hucks on the FEST series circuit should be evidence enough - it's just that it takes more rider input to lift those wheels off the ground. This year our inclusion of the Voltage on our list of nominees for DH Bike of the Year raised some eyebrows, but the fact is, for most riders, the Voltage will be an easier bike to ride, and that translates to more fun on the trail. A slightly steeper head angle, shorter wheelbase, and a little less travel gives it a more playful personality, one that's suited for a wider range of terrain than the Gambler. Choosing which bike to purchase will depend on your intentions. Will your riding mainly take place in bike parks, perhaps with a few local DH races thrown into the mix? Choose the Voltage. Do you have expert (or better) bike handling skills, and constantly seek out the steepest, gnarliest tracks around? The Gambler will be the way to go. - Mike Kazimer |
Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.
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As it happens I do own a crappy old bike I use for riding to the shops etc that has 2 front rings but no front mech. I can shift down from the big ring to the smaller one by pedalling with my left foot, while pushing the chain in with my right foot. Its not neat and its not pretty, but it works. Master that and then you'd only have to stop at the top of the climb to manually shift back into the big ring. You'll just have to hope like hell that your chain doesnt decide to fall inside the granny ring with no front mech to guide it, and cause you to spend the next 20 minutes trying to yank it out while swearing at your bike.
Tho if you are thinking of doing this, you may as well just bite the bullet and fit a front mech for the race...
You've inspired my next bar bike front derailleur.... : )
my son rides 1x11 which I have riden and like a lot ,and like you say rides 95% of trails, with my 2x10 its 99.5%
XT Shifter
XT 11-36
Zee mech
Keep your cranks and stick a narrow wide chainring on them.
Stick a bigger cog on at the back if you need it.
You win, and no smelly SRAM on your bike.
Like Mike said, not what you asked but its a better option than 1x11.
Build quality and feel of the SRAM mech and shifters is plasticy and shonky by comparison to the solid, quality feel of XTR. XX1 is far from "the best drivetrain I've ever owned" from a quality standpoint.
XX1 cassette and chain with an XTR mech and shifter is the way forward (and it actually works together too!)
Frame designers have their work cut out for them.
I'm over the XD driver complaint personally. I'll buy one, & be happy, as soon as someone makes a 10sp cassette that fits it(or an 11 sp derailleur that costs under $80 US.)
Wake up Shimano and give us 11-40T 10 speed SLX so we dont have to keep using these expanders.
Where i ride, were not running $200 cassettes and derailleurs, kiss goodbye to a paycheck when it goes wrong....
Sram > Fox don't seem to be immediate friends and Fox have collaborated with Shimano before, very possible they want to expand or continue that in the future.
Looking at the groups from several years ago and now, almost everything 'trickles down', given some time.
FWIW i got a discount e-mail from Works a day ago and they have expander cogs up for sale at £36.00, they gave out discount code 'thankyou' in the email for 20% off so thats an expander for less than £30.00......
Im gonna bomb more than one from them and let my friends fight over them when they are here at that price!
Also note that XX1 shifters include shifter cable, but X01 doesn't, so actually XX1 is cheaper there. Oh, direct mount rings are awesome!
Guess I should cut back on the pizza...
The frame always cracks. I have been riding whistler for the last 3 years and every season my voltage frame has cracked!
Got a 2015 720 and after 10- 15 days in the park it cracked at the head tube just like the old design.
There is an obvious flaw with the frame design/manufacture so just steer clear
Can you run a SRAM 10-42 cassette with Shimano XTR derailleur and shifter? If *should* work (and very well might be the best 1x drivetrain you can create at the moment, if you like Shimano shifter ergonomics).
I kept an eye on what gearing I was using with my 3 x 9 drivetrain to see how I thought I'd go with X01/XX1 setup.
I was so close to buying it several times but couldn't really come to terms with the cost to buy it then the continuing cost of chains & cassettes.
I made a chart of the actual ratios I had and always used, the ones with a 10 - 42 cassette/ 32 & 34 ring and also with a 30 tooth ring with my 11 - 34 cassette. I was surprised at how close the bottom end of the 30 & 11 - 34 set up was to the 10 - 42 with either a 32 or 34 chainring. I would lose a little bit at the top end but in reality I probably wouldn't use the 10 tooth with the 32 or 34 much anyway.
End result is that I am now running a 30T Wolftooth N/W ring up front with my 11 - 34 SRAM 9 speed cassette, short cage non clutch rear derailleur and 10 speed chain. No chain device needed as I've never dropped my chain, it runs super smooth and quiet. I have a gearing spread that Im happy with and a replacement cost for chain and cassette that I am even more happy with. I cannot complain at all, I love this set up for so many reasons
When I finally go to a 10 speed cassette I may go to a 32 tooth chainring which will give me about the same bottom end but a little bigger top end.
Ah yes that's because it states DH bike of the year, and clearly wasn't a DH bike.
Maybe Mitch's Enduro should have been on the list as it's seen actual race time??
2x10, 36/26 front with 11-25 cassette for my full sus and 2x9, 38/44 with 11-23 for my hardtail.
1 + 1 + 1 + 1 + 1
1 + 1 * 0 + 1 = ?
What's the answer?