Ask Pinkbike: Upgrade an Entry-Level Bike, Zee for XC, Bracing for Autumn's Chill
Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.
Budget Upgrades
Question: Pinkbike user Nythe asked this question in the Downhill Forum: Hey Guys. I have a Giant Boulder 3 and just recently started to go to a few downhill and cross-country tracks with a mate. I've seen a few threads where people were saying that you can modify a hardtail to make it better for downhilling, and I was wondering if anything can be done with my bike. I don't have enough for a proper downhill bike and I won't for a very long time, but I was wondering if there are a few things I could change that might only add up to a few hundred dollars but would still make a difference.
 | It sounds like you're well aware that while the Boulder 3 is a fine bike for getting around on and some light duty riding, it isn't the ideal machine for proper mountain biking. The 2013 version has an 80mm travel fork, a 3x8 drivetrain, and a pretty basic build kit all around, all hung off of an aluminum frame. And while I don't doubt the frame's strength when it comes to some average mountain biking (don't go sending it over road gaps and super booters, though), it's that build kit - the steel handlebar and long stem, everything to do with the wheels, and the crankset with its old-style square taper bottom bracket - that has me worried. You should be able to sort a few things out, though, and I'd start with the bike's stem and handlebar as it will both allow you to get into a better position on the bike and make it safer to ride hard: replace the stem with something in the 50 - 70mm length range, and the wimpy steel handlebar with a nicer aluminum model that's at least 740mm wide, two items that can be had for not much money if you look around. The shorter stem and wider bar will give you a ton more confidence on the bike, which means you'll end up going faster, so pick up some higher volume tires while you're at it, but make sure that you have the clearance on the frame and fork to fit them. The stock fork might have just 80mm of travel, but it's the steel stanchion tubes and light duty construction that concern me more. Have a look on the Pinkbike Buy and Sell for a used single crown fork with 120mm of travel or less (a longer fork is going to put more stress on your frame), something that you should be able to find for around $200 USD, especially if it has a quick release axle that you'll need to fit your stock front wheel on it. You might have to invest $300 or so, and it still won't be a bike that you'll want to do any real jumps and drops aboard, but those changes will make a big difference when it comes to just general mountain biking. - Mike Levy |
Giant's Boulder 3 looks like a great bike for getting around on, but it's not made for any sort of aggressive riding. That said, a few changes will make it much more enjoyable on some relatively tame singletrack.
Shimano Zee for XC?
Question: Piman asks in the All-Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country forum: I am putting together a one-by drivetrain on my hardtail XC rig and I can only get the discount through the shop that I work at on a Shimano Zee rear mech. Obviously, there is no chain growth to worry about, and I plan on running an 11 x 36-tooth cassette, which is what the freeride version of Zee is rated for. So, can I get the right shifting performance on an XC bike with a short cage derailleur? If it means anything, I am going to run a 32-tooth chainring.
| You are in luck. The freeride (FR) version of the Shimano Zee short-cage rear derailleur is designed to follow the steeper angle of the wide-ratio 11 by 36-tooth, ten-speed cassette, and its cage can take up a difference of 25 teeth - which happens to be 36 minus 11. The Zee parallelogram is basically the same as Shimano's XC models and the newer ones have the Shadow-Plus clutch, so it should be perfect for the task. Your 32-tooth chainring is not a problem. You are using a one-by drivetrain, so it makes no difference how large or small the chainring is, because the cassette determines the derailleur's chain take-up capacity. BTW: the DH version of the Zee derailleur is designed to trace the more obtuse angle of an 11 by 21, or an 11 by 28 cassette, but it shares the same 25-tooth chain take-up capacity. That means you could also make the DH mech' work in a pinch, by turning in the B-tension screw until the upper pulley clears the 36-tooth cog. Make sure that you use a narrow-wide chainring. - RC |
Shimano's Zee short-cage rear derailleur was intended for gravity riders, but the freeride model can handle an 11 by 36 tooth cassette and, at only 268 grams, it is an excellent candidate for one-by-ten XC/trailbike drivetrains.
Dressing for Fall Rides
Question: PB user trzalica asked the following in the All-Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country forum: Has anybody else tried wearing a long sleeve windstopper base layer (like Gore) under a short sleeve cycling jersey when temps are between 5°-15° Celsius? I'm considering this as an alternative to a long sleeve jacket or jersey on long climbs where it can get really hot And are some shorts enough for autumn? I guess that I will need leg warmers? What do you wear in autumn? I don't need something for rain because I won't be riding in it (I hope).
| Autumn rides are always a little bittersweet, since the grey and dreary winter months are just around the corner, but the riding conditions are often the best of the year. Golden light mixed with tacky trails and colorful leaves creates a recipe for amazing days on the bike. Dressing appropriately can be tricky though, since it's not uncommon to roll out of the house on a frosty morning only to find yourself sweating under a blazing sun just a couple of hours later, wondering what made you think wearing a wool sweater was a good idea. Layering is the key here, and you'll want to choose clothing that you can easily put on and take off without too much hassle. Your idea of wearing some type of windproof layer is a good one, but I wouldn't put a short sleeve jersey over it. Do it the other way - short sleeve jersey, and then the windproof layer on top. That way if you start boiling on a long climb it's easier to take off the layer that's causing you to overheat, and just as easy to put it on again before a descent. In the summer time you can get away with wearing cotton layers, but as the temperatures drop you'll want to go with synthetic or wool options to keep that sweat moving away from your skin. Shorts are usually just fine for riding in the fall - toss on a pair of knee warmers underneath and you should be good for most of those chilly rides. Leg warmers are an option as well, but it depends how much warmth you're looking for - I find them to be too warm for most fall riding. Everyone's internal thermostat is a little different, so it might take a couple of rides before you figure out what works best, but once you do you'll be set for years to come. And don't rule out riding in the rain either - with a little extra preparation, including a water-resistant or waterproof jacket and the addition of a fender of some sort to your bike, you'll be able to extend the riding season even further. - Mike Kazimer |
Knee warmers or a set of low profile knee pads are a good addition for those cooler fall rides.
Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.
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Fail to see how they are stiffer than slx...........
Would love to have a Shadow+ rear mech instead of my standard XT one day to reduce chain bounce and I´m stuck between SLX, XT, Zee (or even Deore?)
They are cup & cone style bearing, though: blargh.
bigquotes You are in luck. The freeride (FR) version of the Shimano Zee short-cage rear derailleur is designed to follow the steeper angle of the wide-ratio 11 by 36-tooth, ten-speed cassette, and its cage can take up a difference of 25 teeth - which happens to be 36 minus 11. The Zee parallelogram is basically the same as Shimano's XC models and the newer ones have the Shadow-Plus clutch, so it should be perfect for the task. Your 32-tooth chainring is not a problem. You are using a one-by drivetrain, so it makes no difference how large or small the chainring is, because the cassette determines the derailleur's chain take-up capacity. BTW: the DH version of the Zee derailleur is designed to trace the more obtuse angle of an 11 by 21, or an 11 by 28 cassette, but it shares the same 25-tooth chain take-up capacity. That means you could also make the DH mech' work in a pinch, by turning in the B-tension screw until the upper pulley clears the 36-tooth cog. Make sure that you use a narrow-wide chainring. - RC"""
I've been running this setup on my 110mm Superfly and it's been working perfect. 11-36 in the rear. Zee short cage, 36 Raceface NW in the front. Zee 10 speed shifter. After finding the sweet spot on the B - Tension screw I never had an issue with dropping a chain. Shifting is great. I'm also using a Shimano 11 spd. chain.