A seat post's creaking can come from a few different places, but it's usually the post/frame interface or the seat clamp hardware and rail interface that end up creaking and groaning. Measure your seat height (or make a witness mark on the post) and pull the post out so you can clean the inside of your frame's seat tube. Remove your seat and take apart the rail clamp assembly for a good cleaning, and make sure you remove all grime from the opposing bolts and the barrels that they thread into, and anywhere two different pieces come into contact with each other. Don't forget to wipe clean the bottom of the lower rail support and the top of the post's head as well - that's usually were noise can come from, and you can spot it by looking for any blemishes where the two have been rubbing against each other. Next, apply a very,very thin layer of thick grease onto the threads of the opposing bolts, all over the two barrels, and every single contact surface, including where the seat rails are clamped. Go very lightly - excess grease will only cause dirt to stick to it - and wipe away any and all grease that you can see after you've put the post back together and reinstalled your seat. If your frame is aluminum, apply a bit of grease to the post before you slide it in. If your bike is carbon, use a touch of carbon assembly paste but never grease. You should be noise-free now. - Mike Levy |
I almost always ride flat bars when I am on 29ers, so I have developed some favorites over the years. Your first choice of an Easton EA70 Wide is an excellent one, with a race-proven bend and with well-engineered, tapered wall thicknesses to keep it comfortable. Niner's Flat Top bar is another excellent choice. It has a nine-degree sweep and a minimal, five-millimeter rise that makes it easier to find a perfect hand positon. The aluminum Flat Top runs $65 USD, while the RDO carbon model costs $198 USD. Finally, the world's most over-engineered flat bar has to be the Syntace High5. Like the Niner Flat Top, the High5 has a tiny bit of rise to it, which gives it that additional adjustability. Syntace designs the bar so the bend begins closer to the handlebar clamp, so its eight-degree sweep puts the hands in the same place as a nine-degree bar, but with the wrist in the eight-degree position. The High5 takes some fiddling to arrive at the perfect hand position, but if you can get it right, it is an excellent performer. Syntace makes the High5 in aluminum for $89, and the Vector Carbon model for around $229 USD. All of those suggestions are competitively light weight (the links take you to their tech pages) and I think you'd be happy with any of the three. - RC |
This question seems to come up fairly regularly, as riders that are used to airing up their shock to a number close to their body weight are find themselves running pressures that are 50psi (or more) higher after switching to a Monarch DebonAir shock. The DebonAir's increased air volume in both the positive and negative chamber of the air can is the reason for this change, and rather than having a max air pressure of 275psi like previous versions of the Monarch, the DebonAir can take up to 350psi. Adding or subtracting air only takes a minute or two, so why not pump the shock up to 300psi and sit on it with all of your gear on to check the sag for yourself? I'd bet that will get you close to the desired 30% sag, and if not, simply add a little more air. You may also want to make sure that the shock has the correct tune for your bike - there should be a red and blue box printed somewhere on the shock body that denotes the compression and rebound tune, which you can then check against the frame manufacturer's recommendation to make sure everything is as it should be. - Mike Kazimer |
You need to choose between bike bag or a bike box, there are pros and cons for both: Bike bags can be pricey, and once you arrive at the destination you have a huge bag to store, although they're reusable. A bag will handle the elements well, allow fast and easy packing/unpacking, and protect your bike. A wheeled bag simplifies life on public transport to and from airports because you can grab the handle and get going. For the frequent traveller, the bag works best. A bike box is cheap (usually free from your local bike shop), upon arrival can be binned or recycled. Getting stuck in the rain with a cardboard box has obvious disadvantages, and are more difficult to drag around. Also packing will take longer as you end up dismantling the bike more and more, wrapping with bubble wrap and pipe lagging hoping that nothing will grind and move around in transit. If you only fly occasionally and get dropped and collected directly at the terminal, the lack of wheels and handles aren't really an issue. I've never had a problem with shocks, sometimes the check-in staff get militant and make you let down the tires. Nowadays, a certain orange European airline can get moody if you have anything else in their with the bike, like clothes or accessories. The most important thing is to make sure you don't overstep the weight limit as a few kilos extra can ruin a month's paycheck with some airlines. Most important of all whichever you choose, smile and be friendly at check-in, this often avoids any altercations. Or you could post it? - Paul Aston |
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He then proceeds to pick up the bag and slammed the bag on it's end on the scale. I was less than pleased. So, yes, they really don't give a f*ck if it's a nice bag or a box. Irregardless, I'm glad I have the EVOC and find it to work well. And, count on TSA rifling through your bike bag.
Also, if you fly with a box take some extra packing tape, as the airport staff will open it up and won't always tape it back up very well.
Hard cases are the only way I go now.
I have talk to ton of riders that have the same problem. And a lot of bike shops deal with the same issue.
I dont know if it is a shock failure or monarchs are only for light riders.
the suspension design of your bike is a huge factor, of course, but if you're a heavier or more aggressive rider, you want a small air can to prevent bottoming out. it's why so many people end up having to put a bunch of air can spacers in the debonair
well, my comments about air spring size in general still holds, but good to know about the debonair. maybe i was thinking about one of the fox air cans?
store.canecreek.com/p/xv-air-can-200x-50-or-57-mm?pp=8
And @xeren, large air cans (thus, more linear spring rates) are a great option if you are looking for more mid-stroke support while still being able to use the last bit of your travel on whatever might be tossed at you at that speed. With a less linear shock, trying to achieve mid-support usually makes the bike ramp up too much near the end of the travel.
Almost all air cans are (relatively) progressive and the reason why larger air canisters are coming out as aftermarket products is because both the riders and manufacturers saw the need for a more linear air spring. This need for larger air cans stems from the riders' desires to have a more usable suspension, rather than bender-style, one-time big hits. Not surprising as linear air springs actually offer a much higher initial sensitivity and more mid-support at the same sag.
But taking your suggestion that damping can somewhat replace spring duties, you can easily increase high speed compression damping to prevent bottom outs, just as you would increase LSC to try have more mid-support (at the cost of small bump compliance). This method is a compromise, and increasing HSC damping would compromise square-edge hit absorption!
The issue is no current shock offers a way to tune progressivity separately. So sadly you can use volume to change spring rate, but then no way to adjust progression after. So a heavier rider may be able to get the right spring rate, but suffer from high progressive spring. Sadly, air volume has thus become a tool to adjust progression and air springs suffer from incorrect spring rates.
I had a 190/51mm on a 140mm bike, with 92kg I needed 320psi for 30℅ sag - but it was unrideable. It had a strange feel like solid rubber when hitting hard, and I never could use full travel. Riding on flat ground or uphill in the open position was like a rocking horse. The damping was not strong enough around the sag-position and too much for harder terrain.
SRAM will 2016 change the porthole for compression and the anti-bob resistance. Hope so - better get a ccdb !
the cargo hold is pressurised like the passenger cabin as its effectively part of the same structure, but is not heated which is why your bags come out cold.
the passenger cabin is heated using warm air from engine bleed, some times a small area of the cargo hold is heated if transporting animals.
Also why you should drop your dropper post while transporting your bike, even if you don't need it.
However, while planning a trip to New Zealand recently, I was reading all the fine print on the airlines websites for traveling with bikes and I did find a few airlines that mention these things specifically, for example:
- Qantas says that the tires must be deflated (but they don't mention shock / fork at all).
- And Air New Zealand says: "Mountain bikes may be fitted with struts containing compressed nitrogen gas. These bikes can only be accepted as checked baggage if the gas pressure does not exceed 200KPa (Kilopascal), or 29 PSI (Pounds per square inch)." and then 2 lines later they say: "Deflation of the tyres is not necessary."
So there is very little consistency from one airline to the next.
Moral of the story is: Just read the fine print for the airline you plan to travel with (and any interline airlines that you will be connecting with).
I did end up flying with Air New Zealand so on my way there I lowered the pressure in my fork / shock / tires (just because it was easy and I didn't want any issues that would delay me). When I packed the bike up to return home I was pretty drunk and couldn't be bothered so I left everything full... Not one airline employee questioned me about it anyway.
-hps
I followed the rules when entering the country and checked the "yes I am carrying used sports equipment box" on the customs card so they did send me to secondary to inspect the bike which I fully expected.
The customs inspection lady opened my bike bag, looked at the parts of the tires and bike that were visible and said something like: "Oh, this is good. You even scrubbed the tires. This is very good." Then she let me proceed no problem.
So ya, the tires are definitely the first thing they will check. And it is possible to get them clean enough with a little bit of elbow grease (better than throwing away $70 tires, imo).
-hps
the advise from LH Thomson about their seatposts is as follows
For the seatpost installation into the bike frame:
"A very light coat of grease is okay. Do not use anti-seize as it can lead to slipping. To prevent sticking the post in the frame, remove clean and re-install every 90 days. Do not use grease in a carbon fiber frame."
For assembly of the clamp head:
"Grease only bolt threads. Do not grease under bolt head or washer and do not use anti-seize."
The advise about the bolts is interesting because its the same that all quality component and fastener manufacturers provide - excess grease which smears the bolt head, or actually greasing the bolt heads, affects the setting torque on the bolt
Mountain bikes are designed to take a beating, so all your worries about protecting the bike should sit below other logistical issues.
Lastly, airlines are going to charge you about $150 domestically and $200 internationally EACH WAY. Factor that in to your plans.
I bought the crc bike bag for 99$ it does the job. I know pay 50 to put it on airplane.
Effective for tickets purchased on or after December 15, 2012, for travel on or after February 13, 2013, the items listed below will be accepted as Checked Baggage for a $75 each way charge. For tickets for travel before February 13, 2013, or for tickets purchased prior to December 15, 2012, the items listed below will be accepted as Checked Baggage for a $50 each way charge.
Bicycles (defined as nonmotorized and having a single seat) properly packed in a bicycle box or hardsided case larger than 62 inches in total dimensions will be accepted as Checked Baggage. Pedals and handlebars must be removed and packaged in protective materials so as not to be damaged by or cause damage to other Baggage. Bicycles packaged in cardboard or softsided cases will be transported as conditionally accepted items.
It says [...Larger than 62inches in total dimensions will be accepted...]
Box: I have a standard bike box that i have couverd in silver electric tape, no water issues for me!
CRC bags do the job well if your on a budget but just take a bit more care when packing.
My issue is the sag ends up being at 40% after a ride. Losing air as it heats up maybe. .
Pb range review liked debonair in mid position..I agree. May need volume spacer
So I mounted the monarch plus debonair from a Norco Range but it's actually on my Banshee Rune. I checked again last night and noticed that I achieve 30% sag (frame sag which is like 17mm) and I only have 150 psi in there. I am 180 lb geared up so I tried pumping it up to 180 psi and it was stiff as hell at 10% sag. So what gives? My numbers seem to be way off from others. Maybe i'll take it apart tonight and see what's there for spacers.
www.pinkbike.com/news/fly-cheap-with-your-bike-mitch-chubey-2010.html
also, brilliant tuning on them allows them to be plush and still support themselves everywhere
One day dropper posts will be made to work...
One would also expect some general questions about biking, but maybe that is considered a waste of advertising space.