The rule of thumb for pricing a used bike for a quick sale is that it will be worth 60-percent of its original MSRP, provided that it is a contemporary model and in excellent condition. Upgrades do not improve the value of used bikes much, even outstanding ones like Enve carbon wheels or a RockShox Boxxer World Cup fork. To further darken the picture, the recent spate of clutch derailleurs, one-by transmissions, new wheel diameters, wider rims, and odd axle standards has largely eroded the value of older bikes. Cut that original figure by another 25 percent if your Superlight has little wheels, and slice it again by 25 percent if it has a quick-release axle. I'm guessing that your Santa Cruz sold for around $3000, so assuming that it has QR axles a three-by drivetrain and 26-inch wheels, the asking price of your perfectly maintained, low-time Superlight could be somewhere around $1000. If it has many mix and match parts or visible wear and tear, then you'll be lucky to fetch $600. To put it mildly, we should be seeing a lot of low-income food-service professionals riding high-end 26-wheel racing bikes to work in the near future. But, as history can prove, I could be very wrong, so before you accept my doom and gloom prophesy as gospel, check similar year and model bikes in the Pinkbike BuySell pages to establish an average price for your Superlight, and then adjust your selling price from there. Be honest with your expectations and then hold your price. Good luck. - RC |
I'd recommend bringing it to your favorite local bike shop and letting them take a look at it. In the best case scenario, you just knocked the wheel hard enough to loosen some spokes, but didn't do much damage to the rim itself. Since the Crossmax Enduro wheels only have 24 spokes each, a loose one will have a greater effect than it would on a higher spoke count wheel. If this is the case, a relatively inexpensive wheel true should be all it takes to get it back to normal. It's always surprising how some wheels can be brought back to life with only a few turns of the spoke wrench, while other refuse to return to their original shape no matter how much time you spend laboring over them. If you did damage the rim beyond repair, either by cracking it or by putting a massive flat spot into it, than you'll have to purchase a new rim and have the wheel laced over to it. This will certainly be less expensive than buying a whole new wheel, but it's still not a cheap fix. - Mike Kazimer |
There are great trails for any kind of bike and riding style at the Forest of Dean. Trail centre XC loops, small skills areas and a bunch of different downhill runs. The hill isn't particularly steep, so you don't 'need' a downhill bike to get down, but there are plenty of rough, rooty and rocky sections that you would float over more easily with more travel, as well as some sizeable jumps where a bigger bike may save you if you come up short. For 28 GBP per day the uplift service is fast and 15 runs per day is average. The local's tip is the Thursday evening uplift during the summer months. Go for an afternoon pedal with your buddies, chill out with a cup of tea in the cafe, then session downhill runs until dark. Check out FlyUp Downhill for more information. - Paul Aston |
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.... when coupled with the supply side of the curve of course!
Everyone replacing their 26 with a bigger size (given the limited choices for a new 26, that is more and more inevitable), adds to the supply of 26 bikes in the market which further drives down the prices.
That is where people like me and @rivercitycycles step in and say "Thank you; I don't mind if I do".
#SpandexHero
#SellOut
Also if its really old (15-20 years) and still in good shape it can actually appreciate in value over what it originally cost retail if its something sought after. I just parted out a rep's 1995 Gary Fisher Grateful Dead Hoo-Koo-E-Koo hardtail on ebay for him, which had all the best trimmings on what was otherwise a mediocure frame with cool decals. The White Industries LMDS shifter/derailleur set on it alone nearly reached $400USD on ebay and it retailed for $300USD in 1998 (and as a rep the owner didn't pay anywhere near retail). A World Cup raced Boxxer 151 fork from a former Balfa Team rider's Bobonum went to $132.50USD and the frame itself went to $134.50USD. That's decent money for a 17 year old frame and fork that had been ridden to multiple canadian national and quebec cup DH championships. Another member of the Balfa's team race clothes, including ripped DH long-sleeve jerseys fetched pretty damn good money on ebay. One chap in montreal bought a whole outfit (two jerseys, a near mint team jacket, and a pair of the rare padded DH "shorts") for about $200USD. Things like Shivers still fetch good money on their own, and I turned a tidy profit on the last one I sold.
ill stick to 26 because they get cheaper!
I'm getting real sick of the conspiracy theorists trying to rally for a "26" revolution. It's obvious that the general riding public had similar intent to me in 2013 and 2014, and wanted that little bit less rolling resistance on climbs, but without having to compensate for DH drawbacks such as I am riding with. I mean bloody hell, who doesn't want a bike that's better at climbing hills?
And THAT is why Trek & SRAM developed boost hubs and frames/forks employing them... for 29er flex issues. Of course it wasn't ready for release until the 2016 model year really...so of course did nobody any good who bought new bikes the past few years but that's like ALL things that progress over time... but in a few years if you go looking to replace that 120 travel 29er with another 29er... chances are it'll have less flexy wheels thanks to Boost.
Btw I built 2 sets of "small" wheels you speak of in last few months , couldn't find rims any cheaper than same "upgraded" size ones. Interesting...
Different plugs for different holes I say.
A 2005 Norco A-Line with everything broken is $1,000.00.
And a 2007 Manitou Dorado with destroyed seals and stripped bolts is $800.00.
Of course, that's one side of the story. The other is that there's so much shameless bottom feeding in the buy/sell, you have to set your price high to get people to perceive your bike as worth anything at all. That's not just a pinkbike thing - I get that with classifieds for anything. Put up something at $1000, with tons of pictures and supporting info as to why it's worth that - you'll get shitloads of people pinging you with stuff like "I only have $300" or "Want to trade for [insert random piece of shit gear here]".
I'm trying to sell an amazing "good shit" bike with 26' wheels and I'll dig up the receipts and stuff like you said g-42. In my mind its the best looking bike ever made, but I had to go by a 29er so now I have to sell it cheap.
When they re-introduce 26" wheeled bikes they won't even resemble the ones were selling now.
However, I do agree with g-42 that the psychology of seeing a higher price leads some people to believe the item is worth more. If you compare it to new items and other items listed on buy/sell, you can make a fairly informed decision.
I read recently as well that there are some major plans afoot for new trails and upgrades (not to mention repair work), so will be interesting to ride it and go back after a while!
To the tube of you i go!
I'm with smoothlandin, plus I start with the standards leftovers for dirt cheap.
1. Lower the purchase price via a great relationship with your LBS (the same one you buy a new bike from year after year). 2. Look after your bike. Clear tape everything. Service it well. This ensures a higher resale value. 3. Factor in how much you would need to spend on a bike after two years, because after one year you should only have needed a new chain or two, and a few fork rebuilds (you do do it yourself, don't you?), but after two years of going hard, you may be up for a new drivetrain, new bearings etc etc. 4. Buy early in the season, and sell early in the season. For example, in a few month's time when the 2016 Giants come out, I will be selling a 2015 model. That is very attractive for consumers. The problem comes when the bike is still in stock and the LBS is marking it down - so talk to the LBS and figure out which bikes will sell out.
I can get a new $4k or $5k bike every year for between $500 and $1000 changeover. I have never had a complaint from any buyer.
Out of curiosity, you folks keep a nice wheelset that you use on each new bike and put the stockers back on to sell, or do you just run whatever comes stock on each ride?
Quote of the month. That's brilliant.
Let's take a 2013 Stumpjumper 29 for example... still modern, 142x12, 29" wheels, etc. It came with a RS Revelation fork and heavy wheels. I guarantee that with a Pike and ENVE wheels, it would sell for more than a stock one. It won't sell for the cost of these mods, hell no, but it will certainly go for more.
Happy riding, you'll have a great time.
Can you guys post a condensed version or link in the Buy/Sell page?
People always think their stuff is worth more than it really is. It'd be nice to give everyone about to post in buy/sell a similar reality check.
In so cal, 5 years ago all I saw where nomads, now I see tracers. What happened to all those not nomads? There don't seem to be more riders on the trail so where are the darlings of 2004-2009?
With ringle,use,xlite parts,original onza tyres and grips, want to have an idea
How much it's worth?