It doesn't matter how much you spend on a new shock, it still won't work right if it isn't set up properly, which sounds like your only issue. The very first thing to do is to make sure your spring rate is in the right ballpark by measuring the sag when you're on the bike. In short, when you're on the bike and wearing all of your gear, the shock should settle into somewhere between 20 and 35 percent (depending on your bike and how you want it to behave) of its stroke. Find out what your bike's manufacturer recommends, and use the O-ring on the Fox shock's stanchion to see how much sag you have, adding or removing air pressure until it's correct. It is okay for your shock to bottom now and then, especially from a hard impact. It's made to do this. But, if your shock is constantly bottoming, and you're running the correct amount of sag, then you'll need to add a volume spacer to the Float's air spring. This is an extremely simple and common modification that many people have to do, and it doesn't mean that your shock is bad, but only that you need to set it up for how you ride. The spacers, which are plastic and slotted to fit over the damper rod in the air chamber, simply reduce the air volume of the spring, which in turn makes the shock ramp up much quicker through its stroke. Spacer sizes are 0.2, 0.4 and 0.6 cubic inches, and installation can be done with a shock pump and a small screwdriver in about five minutes. Here's how to install a volume spacer in a Fox shock. - Mike Levy |
Considering that your request was decidedly price conscious, your best bet is to assemble a one-by-ten drivetrain using a wide-range booster cassette kit from the likes of OneUp or Wolf Tooth. Pinkbike has posted a number of technical pieces on this simple conversion, so I'll skip those details. You will be able to use your standard Shimano Shadow non-clutch rear derailleur paired with a top-guide. Narrow-wide chainrings are readily available from a number of sources in the most popular bolt-circle diameters (yours is probably 104mm), so you won't have to purchase a new crankset either. The main question here is what advantage SRAM's 10 x 42 eleven-speed cassette has over using a boosted Shimano-style 11 x 42 ten-speed cassette? The bottom line is that there is a substantial difference. SRAM's eleven-speed cassette shifts better than a ten-speed conversion and offers a more natural spread between each shift. It feels just right almost all of the time and at present, SRAM's 10 x 42 eleven-speed drivetrain is the best performing option for one-by users. Converting a Shimano-compatible ten-speed cassette to an 11 by 42, (or an 11 x 45) is the next best thing - and a far less expensive option, which only requires two cogs, a narrow-wide chainring and possibly, a top-guide to manage the chain in lieu of a clutch-type rear mech. The downsides are that a wide-range one-by-ten won't shift as well, and while the spacing between gears is pretty good, it rarely feels just right. That said, I've ridden a lot of trouble free miles on one-by-ten drivetrains with wide-range conversions and I'd recommend one for any rider on a budget. - RC |
Nearly all helmet manufacturers recommend replacement after a large impact, even if it's simply dropped onto a hard surface. The only helmets I know that are certified against multiple impacts are from Swedish brand POC. The current Cortex model comes in at $249 USD for the standard fibreglass shelled version, and there is a MIPS equipped version that uses a carbon fiber and aramid polycarbonate (think bulletproof vest material) dual layer shell for a hefty $499. POC also released the new 2016 Coron helmet that we spotted back at Eurobike, the non-MIPS version will cost $450 USD. That's a lot of money for a helmet, but if it can repeatedly take the hits this means better value in the long term than a one-hit wonder. The Troy Lee D3 uses a 'Dual Density Shock Pad' system where the outer layer of foam can withstand multiple light impacts, but a large impact will mean the end of its lifespan. Most brands offer some kind of crash replacement guarantee, so if you smash your lid they will replace it for a reasonable price, this is something that you can factor in to the initial outlay. If you want to invest in extra safety there are a number of new technologies to consider that have appeared in the last few years that help to reduce rotational impacts and concur with higher prices. Many helmets use the MIPS system which helps to reduce rotational forces during a crash which is one of the biggest factors for injury. Leatt's new GPX helmet uses 'Armourgel Turbines' that help to dissipate forces in a similar way. Other brands like Kali Protectives take a different approach and say that a reduction in mass is the best way to reduce these forces, their 'Composite Fusion' technology uses dual density foam pyramids which allows construction of a smaller, lighter helmet but still offers the same impact protection as other helmets in its class. Like many mountain bike products, spending more money generally means higher quality materials, lighter weight and sometimes better styling. With helmets and protection an extra large investment can pay dividends in the future - buy the best you can afford and try and keep 'er upright... - Paul Aston |
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They'll send them anywhere because you are supplying the pre-paid return envelope.
I just sew mine.
c1.staticflickr.com/5/4106/5054663404_2ebd634011.jpg
$52 shifter www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-xt-m8000-11-speed-trigger-shifter/rp-prod135894
$90 cassette www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-xt-m8000-11-speed-cassette/rp-prod135828
$80 derailleur www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-xt-m8000-shadow-11-speed-rear-mech/rp-prod135893
then I would prob go with a sram chain, unless shimano finally makes chains with a master link in them; i have no idea I haven't bought a shimano chain in years
To hell with links that need tools to use.
www.amazon.com/Wipperman-Connex-Connector-10-Speed-Chain/dp/B0028WT392
www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/sram-gx-11-speed-rear-trigger-shifter/rp-prod135895
www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/sram-gx-1x11-speed-rear-mech/rp-prod135897
www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-xt-m8000-11-speed-cassette/rp-prod135828
www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/kmc-x11-93-11-speed-chain/rp-prod132779
I was also considering matching GX shifting onto an XT cassette, and I prefer the ergonomics of the sram triggers, but I like the idea of the Shimano Shadow design where the derailleur hang out a lot less; it looks like it has a much lower chance of getting banged up by stuff. Does anyone have experience with this? I've haven't ridden shimano shifting since 2008
new kmc chain $20
gear king (ebay) oval narrow wide and cassette expander : $70
used shimano cassette
$160 and nailed it
you'll get more range than adding a extra large aftermarket cassette ring. you also don't have to buy any new parts either, which is not the point is it ;P
A properly adjusted front derailleur will never fail you.
otherwise your just doing this ; www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjhcXZGp0YE
So you do need to buy something, a narrow-wide ring(just the clutch RD might work, but I've never tested that configuration.) but yea, leave that granny on there, at least until you can save up for a range expander, & maybe even then. 24g is awfully light for some insurance.
I'm not against them, but thats my experience.
I have noticed however that many people route the cable on Shimano front derailleurs wrong, drives me crazy! That could account for the many people who find front derailleurs to be "inefficient" and hard to shift with. But when you try to " show " someone how to do something they usually get offended as though your talking down to them, weird. All this to say there is still much to learn about what we already know about.
stylemens.typepad.com/photos/uncategorized/2007/03/22/dark_helmet_angry.jpg
@Skrubway $150 for the cassette and a new chain for; $50 NarrowWide up front and you're done. Maybe throw in a newer deore rear mech with a clutch for $50 and whammo: Brand new 1x10 with a wide range and shifting as good as Sram x-9 all for about $250.
www.ebay.com/itm/201485195888?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l5999&_trkparms=gh1g%3DI201485195888.N36.S1.R1.TR1
I have a Fox Rampage carbon that I bought on Jenson - the 2015 is $450 and the the 2014 model is $240. Super-comfy on my giant noggin
They could already put the larger spacer in the shock and if you think your shock is too harsh just use less pressure.
Im gonna design my own spacer based on the original fox spacer dimensions and send the project to a 3D printer. That way I'll stop bottoming it out and it will cost me a fraction of the value.
I opened up my shock and low and behold, I already have the largest spacer in there, so i put 20 extra psi in there, run 15-20%sag, works well, low speed damping just suffers.
with the corset and the devol air cans, I believe the idea is the additional volume for the negative air spring helps smooth out the initial lack of plushness
That sounds backwards...
Big spacer gives you more progressive ramp up, making pedaling more efficient and "stiffer". I picked up a set a couple of seasons ago, it's changed my world.
If anyone want the file with the 3D model just let me know and I'll send you. You just have to find a 3D printer (you can find it on 3DHubs) and send the file to the guy.
Cheap and useful
1) Buy an expensive one and hope it can survive multiple impacts
2) Buy whatever is marked down to a reasonable price (usually the ones with purple graphics or the like) and repeat as needed after a crash
3) Invest in a riding course and practice to reduce your dismount frequency
I personally favor a combination of strategies 2 and 3. Works also for derailleurs.
But just buy a RADr cage, & you can go 42t, no problem, with better shifting & durability than the stock cage.
*I'm sure there's some bike with insane chain growth like a redalp that doesn't work, but it should really be troublefree for 99% of people.
On the point of this thread though, 1x10 vs 1x11, I've been running a 11-42 1x10 with a saint derailleur and Radr cage and its been perfect. Do not want to give up the direct mount saint derailleur, but plan on maybe switching to a 11spd xt cassette, and a 11 speed shifter and keeping the derailleur once my cassette and 42t cog are worn out. Wont be much price difference up front, and the savings should come back in the long run with the single 11 speed xt cassette coming in around $90.
Lighter than a SRAM xg and half the price
www.billys.co.uk/english/group.php?prod=cssr-mx3
No need to go 12speed and certainly no need to go for flimsy SRAM
I get the weight thing. I'm very used to wearing my moto helmet all day, so that's never been a big issue for me. That's a huge personal thing though.
It has nothing to do with sponsorship or money, it's engineering. Moto helmets are designed to meet DOT or SNELL standards, which are certification against a large, high-speed impact. Neither DOT or SNELL collision standards place emphasis on preventing concussions, they're aimed at making sure your skull doesn't get cracked like an egg and spray brain bits all over. If all you get is a concussion after being ejected from your Ducati at 120, that's a win. MTB is a different design space. Even in DH, you will rarely, if ever see speeds close to what DOT/SNELL are aimed at, and wipeouts are far more frequent. Consequently, preventing concussions in lower speed crashes is a much higher priority.
Is true that everytime you skid a berm a kitten dies?
Best,