DMR Axe Cranks - Review
DMR's heritage is steeped in hardcore dirt jump pedals, frames and components, but the Brit's have been veering in a new direction in recent years. Their new path heads towards trail-biking and general thrashing around the woods, as epitomized by the reborn Trailstar frame last year. Similarly, this Axe crankset isn't a pure 3-piece BMX style crank, as you may have expected from the brand, but a tough, alloy setup for all-mountain, enduro or just riding your bike.
The crank arms are chunky, hollow-forged units that sit on a 30mm hollow axle. I was supplied with a matching 36t DMR Blade chainring which uses a SRAM GXP style, direct mount system. A pair of crank arms and axle ker-ching the till at £139.99 / $181.50 USD with various options of bottom bracket and chainrings available separately.
DMR Axe Details
• Intended use: AM / enduro
• ‘Hollowform’ technology
• Sizes: 165, 170, 175mm
• ø30mm axle
• 68/73mm and 83mm axle available
• Weight: 768g (with arms, BB, direct mount Blade 36T and hardware)
• Colors: black,
• MSRP: £139.99 / $181.50 USD (arms only). £240 / $267 USD as tested - includes Praxis BB, BB tool and 36 tooth ring.
• www.dmrbikes.com
• Intended use: AM / enduro
• ‘Hollowform’ technology
• Sizes: 165, 170, 175mm
• ø30mm axle
• 68/73mm and 83mm axle available
• Weight: 768g (with arms, BB, direct mount Blade 36T and hardware)
• Colors: black,
• MSRP: £139.99 / $181.50 USD (arms only). £240 / $267 USD as tested - includes Praxis BB, BB tool and 36 tooth ring.
• www.dmrbikes.com
The Sram GXP-style chainring mount uses three T25 bolts: surely the easiest system on the market.
Keeping it simple, the Axe uses one 8mm, self-extracting bolt.
Installation
Installation was a breeze thanks to the included bottom bracket tool (a proprietary widget from Praxis). I would prefer to see an 8mm hex wrench over the 3/8" socket-wrench drive for the tool, just to keep my toolbox and life as simple as possible. Laser etchings on the cups indicate the correct side and installation direction and there are no fiddly preload washers or rings to adjust. Just put them on, tighten, and go ride. Removal is more than simple too, undo the single self-extracting 8mm crank bolt and voila.
The Sram GXP style direct mount chainrings must be the best way to install a chainring to date. No special tools required or highly torqued lock rings and the need for a vice. Three T25 bolts do the job, which are the same as found on disc rotors if you're hunting through the toolbox for a spare.
The axle on the Axe is fixed on the non-drive side, the opposite of most cranks, including Shimano and SRAM. This means you can quickly remove the drive side crank arm with the 8mm self-extracting bolt to change the chainring without removing the axle from the bottom bracket.
On the Trail
The Axe cranks never crossed my mind when riding, like any good crank should, they just get on with the task. They took some incredibly hard rock strikes up in the alpine during the summer and shrugged off all of the blows with ease. The cranks are solid underfoot and have plenty of stiffness.
The hollow forming meant DMR didn't need to externally machine the cranks to save weight. Some cranks like Raceface's Atlas, for example, are machined on the inside of the arm, which can create pockets for mud to collect. The Axe arms are also fairly straight on the outside, and I didn't find excessive pedal rub or any sharp edges bashing my ankles.
The bearings are starting to grind after 14 to 16 long (40-60km) days on the trails, not as good as we'd have hoped or expected, but increasing axle size will take away from bearing depth with current bottom bracket types. Due to the 30mm axle stepping down to 28mm on the drive side, compatibility with other 30mm bottom brackets isn't an option..
I would like to see the inclusion of steel inserts for the pedal threads for added peace of mind, especially for a crankset that feels capable of taking on any kind of abuse, even downhill racing.
The Axe cranks took the hits like a champ. The robust build makes me feel like the rest of my bike is going to break before the cranks.
The Praxis bearings didn't spin smoothly for as long as I would have hoped.
Pinkbike's Take:
 | The Axe crankset is a contender for riders looking for a burly crankset with commendable weight, stiffness, price and simplified function. - Paul Aston |
Author Info:
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As for Praxis BB's, So far so good. I've got the PF30 BB which threads the drive and non drive side together - it's rock solid and so far, not so much as a single creak. Highly recommended for those of you with creaking BB's or BB's that walk themselves out of their shell!
Crank stiffness is tangible....because you thinks it your frame flexing doesn't mean that's actually what's happening. Bit like saying you still think the earth is flat dude..
we always repack our new bearings, in the UK its wet/muddy and we ride all year round because of the temperate climate, so bikes get exposed to lots of wet miles.
i use a scalpel blade to pop one of the seals without deforming, repack with PM600 military grease, spin the bearing, repack, seal, wipe. makes a massive difference to bearing life.
1. Are they about average, way lighter than average or way heavier than average?
2. Do they have an annoying "standard" for attaching them to the bike?
3. Do they break easily?
4. How much do they cost?
Unlike this:
"but the Brit's"
from the second line of the article...
Any bmx'er that forgot to put the axle shaft on thier profiles knows this
The end of axle bolt system that mountain bike cranks use is different than in the bmx world.
Bmx cranks dont have a tapered spindle and that's why they come loose, they should have a pinch bolt and some of them do.
Mountain bike cranks use a tapered press fit.
It has nothing to do with bearing life.
In fact the cranks that have a pinch bolt are more likely to kill bearings because it allows people to overload the bearings.
But the two different systems are made by different companies using different bearings and that has more of an effect on bearing life than anything else.
Bearings die because they're shit quality. As well as some shitty concepts.
Sure, pinch bolts may not be the right answer, but a preload system that pinch bolts brings is one way of doing it. I personally prefer the collar style that Cinch uses, without the use of pinch bolts.
This is true.
We are in 1990, right?
How about what type of forging are they. near net forged perhaps?
What type of aluminum 6000 or 7000 series.
How much $ for replacement chain ring?
Details please.
30/28 BB
really?