e.thirteen Introduces TRS Tires and Wheels
Engineered to work together
Why is a chainguide company making a tire? Because the tire we wanted didn't exist.
First we wanted to ride a tire that offered maximum grip. A no-holds-barred enduro race tire with sticky rubber and a supportive casing like our favorite DH tires, but at a weight we could pedal all day long.
We also wanted to take the frustration out of tubeless set-up. By engineering our tires and rims together we have ensured a perfect fit between the tire and rim. In most cases, this means our tires can be installed on our rims with a standard floor pump. No swearing or sweating required.
Finally we wanted a tire with a casing and tread that was suited to modern enduro worthy rim widths, not a tire designed around the 17-20mm rim widths of the past.
Our new TRS tire and wheel combo; the best wheel system out there for perfect fit, more control, and more fun.
TRS Tires
Aggressive design - A true 2.35” width optimized for modern inner rim widths of 24-31mm.
900g Reinforced casing - Built to withstand extreme conditions at race pace while keeping a low weight for optimal performance.
Race triple compound (Durable dual compound also available) - Sticky yet supportive 40a side, 42a center and 72a base.
TRS Race Wheels
Durable, 27mm, hookless carbon rim - thanks to a selection of the best fibers and an advanced production process with rigorous quality control.
5 year warranty on hubs with immediate wheel swaps on warranty - Should the worst happen, we get you back on the trail without fuss, and with a fully built new wheel.
Large hub flanges and carbon torsion tube - provide added stiffness. e*thirteen wheels react quicker so you can go faster.
660 freehub - 6 degree, 60 point engagement for snappy acceleration.
Wheel System
Tool free install - Tires pop on by hand and inflate with a floor pump.
Exceptional air retention, no burps - One of the key benefits of engineering our wheels and tires together.
It looks rad! - Matching rim and tire logos for the win!
Perfect Fit. More Control. More Fun.
MENTIONS: @ethirteen-components
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#CARBONTUNED rims
#WIDEANGLE profile
#DOUBLETIME ratchet
#SPEEDBALL bearings
#SOLOSPOKE
#PREDICTIVE STEERING front hub
www.pinkbike.com/news/Bontrager-King-Earl-Wheelset-Review.html
bythehive.com/products/trs-tire%20?variant=16933814913
bythehive.com/pages/wheelgoods
J-bend spokes are actually weaker than straight pull spokes. the wheel's strength comes from having very well balanced spoke tension to allow the wheel to go through flexure under load without having overloads due to uneven spoke tension
the most common mode of failure for a J-Bend spoke is to fracture on the elbow of the J-bend.
I've built over 600 wheels in my time, and dealt with 100's of wheel repairs both to hand built and factory wheels, so speak from real world experience.
J-bend spokes are still a great choice for wheel building, and much easier to source from any bike store.
perhaps they have chosen to use J-bend spokes because its a lot easier (and cheaper) to design and manufacture a wheel hub compatible with J-Bend spokes. Straight pull requires a much more complex 3-dimensional shape to the hub flange.
You probably like building wheels with alloy nipples too.
Maybe even use linseed oil?
How about twist spokes?
You like them too?
what's with the poor attempts at sarcasm?
I'm a Mavic, Roval, DT Swiss and Giant certified wheel technician and have managed workshops for some of the largest, high end bike shops in the UK. I spent 5 years building DH, FR and BMX wheels before getting into working on factory wheels for road and triathlon bikes.
Seen plenty of J-bend wheels with breaks at the J-bend, typically caused by a poor fit between the spoke elbow and hub flange spoke drilling; amplified by poor wheel build and / or poor quality of spoke
We never use alloy nipples for hand built wheels. have certainly rebuilt alloy nipple wheels with brass nipples, on too many occasions. we only use alloy nipples where its a proprietary piece supplied by the wheel manufacturer
We never use linseed, and rarely use spoke freeze unless for a low spoke count, high tension factory wheel where its recommended by the manufacturer
We never use twist spokes - we use a range of spokes supplied by DT Swiss, Sapim and Wheelsmith
Don't know what you do for a living, but I do this for a living
www.pinkbike.com/photo/13337450
Without a doubt, the most common failure seen with J-bend spokes is at the J-bend, at the hub. Yes, I've seen quite a few spokes break where the threads start as well, and also some that snap in the middle somewhere, but without a doubt, 80% of broken spokes that I've seen are at the J-bend. I'm not going to speculate on why this is (spoke quality, poor initial wheel build, hub/spoke interface tolerances), it's just the data that is there
And for the record, I absolutely recommend *against* alloy nipples on practically all wheel builds. No linseed oil or twisted spokes for me either.
Thanks for your professional input.
I should clarify my first comment. When I said I have built over 600 wheels, I mean over 600 pairs of wheels. It's a lot of wheels whichever way you look at it!
Most of current work is repairing "factory wheelsets". Use of a spoke tension meter, specific tools, experience based on brand specific training and patience is critical. When the carbon rim has a value of £600 and each spoke £12, it needs to be do e right.
FU
www.pinkbike.com/photo/13086606
That's wrong!!!
You would be right there.
"Why?" I hear you cry.
Because the millions upon millions of owners of 26" wheelsets (that still outweigh the number of non 26" owners in all likelyhood given the decades in which 26" was the main or only option) will probably not be basing their purchase decisions on the fact the logos match up.
How I wish I could have been a fly on the wall at the product development meeting where the bright young spark who came up with the idea of the rim tyre logo combination!!
I bet they got extra cookies.
Then coming backto just riding along - plius is fantastic, a first true option since 29er boom in 2008-2010. I rode 29+ and while potential is there with the extra wide but not fat wide tyre, the weight penalty on a larger radius is simply burrying the gains as soon as you hit a steep climb. Yea the grip and roll is great, but God those tyres and rims weigh a lot. 29+ can be great in flatter areas but for most people, the 26+ could just be the winner. The best bit is that plus tyres are almost double as wide as regular ones (3.0 Bontrager Chupacabra is at least a full inch wider than 2,5" Minion) but only half of an inch taller. That means you can have a plus clearance on fork and frame, but occassionally run regular Tyres, with geo being adjusted for those regular ones.
but i don't think they will disapier, it's like the i phone,they stoped making the 4 inch size screen and started making bigger ones for 2 years, now they came back for the 4 inch again with the SE because they where still selling loads of the 5S for peepole who wanted smaller and didn't want to loose that
in my opinion from 26 to 27.5 it's not that big of a jump, the biggest reson it started was for making more profits because if you don't"inovate" and sell more you die, when they are happy with what they sold they probably go and offer both.
the important thing is that it doesn't mather the wheel size, what really mathers is the bike as a whole and having fun with it !!!
as I do not have any e13 dealer, I suppose shipping cost in case of warranty will neglect it;
by the way most of tubeless rims + maxxis tires easily seated up by flour pump even without soppy water
Because chainguides are slowly becoming obsolete and everyone needs tires.
1. wheels not really spinning well from new compared to other similarly priced wheel sets I own (Mavic, DT swiss). Really noticeably less free spin. The freehub mechanism sealing isn't very effective, compared to my other rear hubs.
2. repeated rear hub issues where the pre-load would tighten it self while riding to the point where the bearings would start to drag. Solved after 2nd warranty claim. They upgraded the internals from TRS+ to TRSr ones.
3. After half a year the pawl springs lost their "springiness" and the freehub started to slip. Solved by replacing the free hubs springs and pawls. The new set was made of different metal, so will see how they hold up.
And these were their "2nd generation" rear hub internals, can't even imagine how bad the 1st gen had to be... no thanks. I'll look elsewhere next time I'll shop for a wheel set.
To their credit the wheels remained true and I had no issues with spokes or the rims. But I am a light guy (75kg/165lbs) and I don't ride particularly rough or big stuff.
I attribute it to spraying both sidewalls liberally with a very concentrated dish soap solution immediately before pumping it up. Perhaps I just got lucky as I definitely have struggled before - mainly when working with wider rims and tires.
@groghunter that's a good idea that did not occur to me.
all-mountain-next.blogspot.dk/2016/03/booooooo-e13.html
all-mountain-next.blogspot.dk/2016/04/yaaaaaaaay-e13.html
i only ride with tyres with more than 900 gr
on the begining of riding with enduro bikes i tried to ride with light tyres like schalbe HD ss, some specialized, maxxis and all gave impressise ride and ended up flat various times, the schwalbe's ended up both with the sidewall riped (f and r) from riding, theres no reason to ride light tyres for when you go riding flat it most rides
ou the back i like the hr or the dhr2, but the exo casing is shit ,will try the double down when it's available, and probably the new agressor tyre. but i have ridden with both magic mary(have it on the back now but with the center knobs cuted in half), the razer with is good for every thing dry, and some times put the mavic tyre when is mid tread i take the on on the fron and replace it and put it on the back wheel.
but this one from e.13 sure look's great
*grabs popcorn and leans back...*