e*thirteen LG1+ Crankset and SRS+ Chainguide Review

Apr 11, 2012
by Alasdair MacLennan  
E*Thirteen have been in the chain device game for a while now, but their cranks are a much newer addition to the product range. We’ve been running e*thirteen's SRS+ chainguide and LG1+ downhill cranks for six months of racing and riding - ample time to weed out the good and the bad from any DH product - and to produce this double long-term product review.


e*thirteen LG1+ Crankset


Pictures for front page article of e-Thirteen e thirteen LG1 Cranks and SRS chain device. All images copyright Ian MacLennan 2012.
e*thirteen LG1+ Crank Specifications:

- P3 Connect Polygon BB axle interface (German DIN 32711-P3)
- Forged, CNC-machined aluminium arms
- 14mm pedal-thread engagement
- 165mm/170mm/175mm crank-arm lengths
- Electrolessly nickel plated 30mm steel spindle
- 870g claimed (880g actual)
- MSRP: $274.95 USD (Cranks, hardware, no chainring), BB with tools: $49.95

The Back Story

Things always go wrong at the eleventh hour and of course, it was for this reason that I ended up with this hastily arranged test. Having destroyed yet another chain device and crank just before leaving for the MSA and Windham World Cups, Silverfish, e*thirteen's UK distributor, stepped in for the rescue. After chatting with the guys it appeared that although the LG1+ cranks could be made to work with the dedicated chainguide of my Intense M9, e*thirteen's SRS+ guide would be a better choice, so a 40-tooth SRS+ was duly ordered. Now, 40-tooth rings may be a bit 90’s Tomac-esque, but my legs simply don’t go round fast enough for a smaller chainring. (I'll admit though, that the increased ground clearance of a smaller ring would be welcome on certain tracks.) The crank-axle was of course, 83 millimeters, with the obligatory race-spec, 165mm arms for extra clearance when pedaling on the big bike.

Pictures for front page article of e-Thirteen e thirteen LG1 Cranks and SRS chain device. All images copyright Ian MacLennan 2012.
Smooth lines on the reverse of the left crank arm (left) show minimal areas for mud to build up. Pedal threads allow for a full 14 millimeters of engagement. The crankarm's P3 Polygon interface (right) and its retained bolt, which acts as a self-releasing mechanism - a standard 8mm hex key is all you need.

LG1+ Crank Details

It is important to note ahead of time that e*thirteen made a few changes on the crankset mid-way through our long-term testing, the most significant being a switch from a steel bottom bracket axle to an aluminum alloy version. The change of material will alter the stiffness of the BB axle to a degree, but based upon experience with similar diameter aluminium BB axles, it shouldn't be a make-or-break change in the crank's performance.

Polygonal interface: A lot has been said in the past about e*thirteen’s three-sided polygonal interface, used on the oversize 30mm axle of LG1+ cranks. The idea behind it is that it maintains better contact under load than a standard ‘toothed’ spline and therefore, requires less material to produce a stiffer, stronger and lighter connection through which to transmit power. The gold looking coating is in fact a nickel based finish which is electrolessly applied and helps provide wear resistance. The electroless technique is used here as it provides a more even coating density than the alternative electrolysis, a small difference perhaps but they do add up.

Crankarms: Hitting the scales at 870g, the majority of the crank's mass centres around that oversized axle when held in your hands, although the crank still manages to maintain an impression of solidarity throughout. The arms themselves are firstly forged from proprietary EXA+ aluminium blanks before extensive machining of unwanted material. The overall design is neat and integrated, and thanks to its minimal tight corners and smooth lines on the reverse side, excess mud doesn’t get trapped and that makes things easy to clean up after the dirtiest of rides.

Bottom bracket detail with tools included in the kit
(clockwise) The LG1 bottom bracket axle's polygonal shape is also tapered to ensure a secure fit. Stainless races and effective sealing come together for an impressively durable bottom bracket that has yet to succumb to the Scottish (and Canadian) elements. Nothing is left out of the package, with chainring hardware and a full set of tools included.

Bottom Bracket: On first sight, the LG1 bottom bracket may just be yet another irritating standard. The dedicated BB is required, of course, to accept that oversized axle on the cranks. Look closer and e*thirteen has included the tool for that unique oversized cup, negating the need for a separate purchase - and the BB tool even allows the use of a standard X-Type tool as its driver. If for any reason, you don't have the proper tool, e*thirteen BB cups fit a standard 12-point 45mm socket, which you should be able to find relatively easily in even the most backwater of towns. The standard, 6806 bearings in the bottom bracket are a neat touch too and allow for quick and painless replacement when the inevitable time arises. To ensure that the bearings stay their best for as long as possible, there are additional plastic crud shields which create ample space for packing in grease during assembly. This all greatly aids sealing and improves longevity. Six months in, testifying to this, the bearings still spin freely and smooth.

Pinkbike's Take:
bigquotesIn our six months with e*thirteen's LG1+ cranks, they've remained creak free and despite the low weight, the 165mm arms felt as stiff in use as my previous Shimano Saint's. I liked the weight, the simplicity and the reliability, but there is no escaping that they are an expensive and a relatively boutique product. Some riders will not like the lack of steel pedal inserts, but given the crank's target market, this isn't a huge issue. Despite numerous hard hits, the threads are still perfect on our test cranks. Another niggle was the anodizing on the crank arms which to us, was a little on the soft side and easily marked. In a dry environment this may be less of an issue, but in the UK and other parts of the world, the crankarms look tatty very quickly, thanks to heel rub. This is a shame, given how great they look when you pull them out the box. That aside, the whole setup has proven to be reliable, well made and very easy to work on, whilst not weighing as much as the Bismarck - something that downhill cranks of old were very close to doing. On this basis, the LG1+ cranks, with their good balance of strengths, are certainly a product to recommend. - Alasdair MacLennan


e*thirteen SRS+ Chainguide

The SRS+ device is one which has been around for a few years now in this current guise and is a world apart in many ways from the earlier guides that e*thirteen produced. They may have been strong but they were also pretty hefty but that’s not a criticism that could be levelled at their current offerings. Not only are they now one of the lightest guides available, they are also still one of the strongest and most reliable. This all comes through better material knowledge, more experience on the World Cup circuit and of course the challenge from riders looking for a better trade between weight and strength than in the past.

Pictures for front page article of e-Thirteen e thirteen LG1 Cranks and SRS chain device. All images copyright Ian MacLennan 2012.
SRS+ Guide Specifications

- EXA+ Aluminium Back plate
- 32-36T or 36-40T (tested)
- IFD (Impact Flexure Design)Turbocharger polycarbonate bashguard
- Replaceable and adjustable wear plate design and Tech 3 Stealth Idler
- Captured gold EXA+ aluminum hardware
- Adjustable-angle lower back plate arm accommodates nearly all chainstay designs
- Mounting standard: ISCG-05 (bb w/adp) or ISCG-03
- Colors: black and white
- 195g claimed for 36t (224g actual for 40t)
- MSRP: $149.95 USD

New bash ring: The bash guard is not only thinner, but also pocketed and thankfully, significantly lighter than virtually any other currently on the market. In effect, there is now a thick outer band which provides the protection, supported by ribs which allow a certain degree of flex and thus resiliency (in e*Thirteen’s words: 'IFD - Impact Flexure Design.') when being hammered against solid obstacles in the trail. The chainring bolt recesses are reinforced using aluminium inserts and from our experience using other guides, this is definitely a good thing. All too often the guard is able to take the impact but it is the flanges that the bolts sit against which fail.

The boomerang: The rest of the guide is attached to the boomerang, which is a two piece affair: the lower portion providing three mounting positions to allow optimal setup on even the most problematic of bikes. Plastic wear plates then attach to this boomerang, the lower including a jockey wheel to keep the chain in check. We found that it went together easily, with minimal fuss, and was about as simple as you could hope for to adjust.

Performance Report

It was difficult to find fault with the complete SRS+ package. We did encounter a few issues in our time, but they were either minor or self inflicted, rather than the fault of the parts. Firstly, were the two aluminium bolts which were used to hold the lower portion of the boomerang in place. Designed as a fuse to prevent excessive force being transmitted, one sheared on us and so we elected to replace all bolts on the device with some steel and titanium items (the lower guide actually comes with a steel option in the box so you can make your own choice between strength and weight). Issue number two in one way actually showed the energy dissipation and resilience of the bash guard after we went through a couple of them at both Mont Saint Anne and Windham. Both situations involved big rocks, speed, missing a line and a hefty dose of brute force (in other words, a fair bit of rider error). What was great to see, was the way that the bash guard absorbed the impact, reducing the forces transferred to the chain ring tabs on the cranks, and helping things to stay straight, enabling the runs to be completed on both occasions.

Pictures for front page article of e-Thirteen e thirteen LG1 Cranks and SRS chain device. All images copyright Ian MacLennan 2012.
Matching collars and cuffs - everything goes together smoothly and with full colour co-ordination. Even the most troublesome swingarms and pivots can to be accommodated by e*thirteen's comprehensive chainguide system.

Pinkbike's Take:
bigquotesAlthough the assembly of several linked components from the same manufacturer should be a straightforward process, experience doesn't always agree. However, in the case of the e*thirteen LG1+ crankset and the SRS+ chainguide, it was about as simple as you could hope for - all aided by the inclusion of the specific tools needed, both T25 and T30 Torx keys, as well as the specific tool for the oversized bottom bracket cups. Throwing in a little grease, some trial and error on the spacers required for the chain device, and the setting of the boomerang to the middle bolt hole saw it all lined up, clearing the lower VPP pivot and working smoothly. - Alasdair MacLennan


Updates for 2012:

With the LG1+ cranks being in effect, the 2011 model year, there have been a couple of updates to the cranks for 2012 (some of which are mentioned in our 2011 Eurobike coverage here):

• The crankset design now splits into three models: the LG1, the LG1+ and the LG1r. All now utilise an aluminium axle over the steel item featured on our test pair to save 60g. The LG1r (race) features further machining to relieve another 60g and so bring about a product 120g lighter yet with equal strength and stiffness.
• The bottom bracket, as with the LG1r crank, is now more heavily machined and houses angular contact bearings. The LG1+ and LG1r both feature Ti-Nitride coated BB axles for greater durability, aided further by lip seals in the cups. By how much these improve things, we obviously can’t say without testing, but given that our existing bearings are still running smoothly, we are optimistic that they'll not disappoint.
• And finally, given the proliferation of new bottom bracket fitments (PF30, BSA, BB92 and BB30), e*thirteen have taken the decision to sell the LG1 BB system separate to the cranks. This ensures that those running anything other than a standard setup aren't left with a BB they have no use for.

Check out e13components.com for the rest of the range.






Author Info:
cloverleaf avatar

Member since May 26, 2003
178 articles

70 Comments
  • 15 2
 I have personally used this crankset for an entire season and can say it is very rugged and very light for how strong it is. It's gorgeous when it comes out of the box and the craftsmanship is superior for sure. The only con for me is that the finish on the crank arms rubs off super quickly. I went from an 83mm bike to a 73mm bike so I ended up selling mine, but they were still in great shape as they went off to their new owner.
  • 12 14
 Ditto
  • 2 1
 i love mine, but the little silver ring around where the pedal screws in came off the first day i took off the pedals, it was just glued on... Has anyone else had that problem??? Love the cranks though!!
  • 27 2
 i wil never be able to afford any of this stuff.
  • 2 1
 I talked to a DH racer with one.Said he loved it and he would buy a new one soon.
  • 1 0
 i picked some up for 100 off a mate, they are awesome!
  • 5 1
 @NorthEasternDH I had that happen to and talked to them at Sea Otter last year about it and they said the only reason they even bother to glue them on is so that people know where to put them and that they are important because they need to spin when removing or installing pedals to prevent damage. Great cranks and guide, ran them all last year and was very happy. I ride in a really dry place and had no issue with the finish rubbing off.
  • 3 2
 lucky! the finish rubbed off mine after about a month lol
  • 7 1
 I think Shimanos latest line-up of cranks offer such a good balance of weight, stiffness and strength that you'd struggle to better them.. none of the creaking and eventual wear interest the square taper isis ect of the past.. That said they are some tidy looking cranks!
  • 4 0
 I agree with jimferno. I run the cranks and LG1+ on my demo for 2 seasons now and not one noise or problem at all. Have yet to even had to tighten them again and they have taken some knocks for sure. Highly recommended. Just wish e.thirteen was still located up the road from me in Leominster MA.
  • 5 2
 I'm no engineer. But In a square taper the 'sharp' edges of a square can easily be damaged/worn a little bit, which obviously then just gets worse and worse. But looking at this axel, its big, chunky and all smooth lines, nowhere to get rounded off as its already rounded off. Plus they say its tapered which adds extra strength.
  • 11 7
 I am an engineer and can tell you that this interface is crap and pure marketing BS. Keep in mind that due to the required manufacturing tolerances, it is impossible to have 100% equal surface contact area. Just plain old impossible. Then, take your two different materials (steel, aluminum), heat and cool them (-20 to +35 C) and tell me that the fit is going to stay exactly the same? Bull!

This interface could be useful in constant load applications, but in a crankset it's on/off/on/off as you pedal. Splines are vastly superior in this application.

All that's happening here is advertising and placebo affect.
  • 9 2
 Actually, as an engineer myself, I couldn't disagree more!

Haven't you heard of the morse taper? The principle here is the same, and the polygon interface removes the need for a drive tang.

The axle and cranks are both Aluminium. If they're machined closely and the fit is as described then of course it's going to work. Any surface irregularity will be compressed and any slight difference in taper will more than be accommodated by the elasticity of the material. Aid this with a correctly tightened fastener and you've got a problem free zone.

Splines are not superior where cyclic loads are concerned because inevitably they'll introduce stress concentrations at the roots or crests of their profiles which could lead to cracks. The lobes win again with their smoothness.
  • 2 2
 Factually a morse taper isn't the same principle at all because it's not driven on the taper if you care to correctly apply the truth. Driving the tapered portion of this interface means that this is more like square taper than spline or morse taper. Yay! Let's hear it for square taper! Essentially what you have here is a larger OD square taper.

The biggest difference is that the stress concentrations in splines aren't on the the interface surfaces.

Of course an undersized spline could crack, but what would an undersized polygon do? Think about where the highest stress is here, and you'll see that it will changes the interface shape as you add stress, and cause wear as the stress is applied and removed. Also think about the material elasticity that allow your taper to fit, then apply uneven surface pressure (both because of the cantelevered drive and the taper). Arguing that undersized splines can fail is like arguing that an XC bike isn't strong enough for DH. Of course that can be true. A properly sized spline is the answer.

Also-for the last few years these cranks have been steel splindle, aluminum arms and they have creaked like mofos.
  • 5 1
 Actually, as a lazy american, I disagree with everything on this page.

All parts wear out. might as well buy the cheapest gears, chain guides, and bash guards and ride your hardest till it breaks. I have the cheapest e13 bash guard and banged it around a good bit and not one problem yet. who cares what parts are made of. if it breaks its broke. same goes for a rear derailleur. People that spend $200 for a derailleur are idiots. one loose twig or crash and BAM its broke. get the cheap crap so when it breaks it wont break your wallet either.
  • 2 0
 Mine never creaked and I ride in Oregon.
  • 3 0
 I appreciate that you want to stand your ground here but I think you're deliberately missing the point grandmastere. As much as people slag off square tapers, there's actually nothing wrong with them - it was just the execution. Same with cotter pin cranks. Both are hand-me-downs from a bygone age, the design and materials were never really updated and as riding got gnarlyer, their limitations were found. Square tapers suffered because the square simply wasn't big enough and the disparity between the material properties of the steel spindle and the alloy cranks always meant one was going to lose out, the local stress was just too high. I think e-13 have got it right, same materials in and out, loads spread over a very large area, lovely tapered fit, no abrupt edges. Essentially, if they've worked out that the loads seen at the contact face don't exceed the contact stress limit of the materials used, it'll never wear out...that's all you ever needed to do with square tapers... Splines are not superior. I guess you could argue that this is a three lobed very slack profiled tapered spline...blah blah blah but I've now massively lost interest!
  • 1 0
 To be fair, on the DH cranks the spindle is chromoly. It has tons of surface area though, so I couldn't see it ever rounding out. I doubt they have warrantied hardly any of these. They are amazing cranks, and if they fit on my new frame I would not have sold them.
  • 7 5
 I'm still leary of the 3 sided polygon interface. Yes it may be solid, yes it may be light, yes it may be stiff, but it still just seems like another version of square taper and I know how easily those develop play after a couple years. I have no doubts in e-thirteen, but I won't be buying these anytime soon because of that interface. You can tell me to get with the times all you want, but I'll stick with splined for now.
  • 7 3
 bigdan30, check out dedhorse13's comment about the interface original design origin and jamesb15uk as he has stated the reason that this interface works. This interface system is very different to that of square taper. It has a much larger surface area leading to greater spread of loads. The corners are curved fillets to stop any wear to sharp edges prolonging the life of the interface.

It is also stiffer due to the above attributes which would mean a far greater force would be required to create any play compared to that of both square taper and splined design.

Some other people have mentioned about hearing allot of issues with the cranks and how they have creaked from day one. There are a few things that this could easily be due to rather than the crank set alone. If they are replacing the current BB system and have not properly cleaned out the threads from the old cups and installed the new ones this could cause the creaking. They maybe did not put grease between the cup and BB interface in the frame. They have not tightened the crank arm interface to the correct torque.

not stating that there may have been an issue with one of the production runs either. The tolerance may be off slightly or the crank/axle interface may have been compromised but from seeing the cranks installed on a few dozen bikes I would go for user error personally and would happily use the cranks myself if they sort out the finish so that they don't look abused within a week of riding.
  • 2 6
flag Angryham (Apr 11, 2012 at 4:52) (Below Threshold)
 huh?
  • 3 0
 Yes, I've heard they use this interface in army tanks, so I'm not denying their strength. My mind just tells me it's too similar - I want teeth that grab. I've never had an issue with splines, and I've never been concerned about their added few grams in weight. For XC use I'd be completely down with this, but any hits would just leave me being too cautious about wrecking my cranks. It's mostly just a mental thing, so we'll see if I can overcome it.
  • 2 0
 Love e13 products, Ali Stem e13 chain rings and SRS+ and LG1+ or race now been great.

Cranks I've not had that experience as others, I've hated them, not as stiff s everyone makes out, mine were noisy and actually had movement on the non drive side from day one, I always thought it was a sloppy bushing in my Straitline flats it drove me crazy, over a couple of months the noise creaking became so unbearable after a 2 week road trip where I swapped pedals out and anything else I thought might be creaking as I was sure the cranks could not be the problem, well they were, I went back to my LBS said take these off put back on my 3 year old RF Atlas FRs and Diablous BB and man so good still light and silent no weird left side issues and totally silent ad smooth too not a new BB by any means either. I have had XO cranks on order for some time I've been so impressed by my old FRs I may even cancel that order. If it works and ant broke why fix something that performs worse for sake of new, RF top end cranks have never disappointed me, I wanted to try something else just to see the other side of the fence, sometimes works sometimes doesn't. Still good luck to them they make sick products but I won't be buying the cranks again.
Cheers..
  • 1 1
 IE-13 = BS
  • 1 0
 That have a pretty extensive setup procedure for installing the bottom bracket properly... Did you follow it to the letter? I am very fortunate to have had no issues throughout my ownership of the cranks, and I took the time to follow the setup instructions to the T. I am over 235 lbs with gear on and did not experience play, flexing, or any of those short comings even when hitting whistler and black rock oregon (my local trails). I am not implying you didn't set them up correctly, but I could certainly see most mechanics just throwing them on there like any other outboard bearing crankset and calling it good...
  • 5 0
 Go-ride.com has the lg1+ w/ bb for $199 USD.
  • 1 0
 Not saying I wouldnt by it - I would! Looks great and no doubt some serious thinking has gone into it.. but!!! (what what?) Whats wrong with a good "old" Gamutti? (or a new one).. Now I know the prices a
matter to most and theres obviously a lot of sifference to the prices frlm country to country. But here gamuttis products are waaaaay better comparing prices also..
  • 1 0
 I have had several Race Face cranksets over the years and they have never failed me. Ive replaced some BB's but the actual cranks take crazy amounts of abuse and keep on going. My current Race Face evolve DH crank-set Ive owned for three years and it still holds up. Race Face cranks for life!
  • 2 1
 I have the cranks and the chainguide as well. Cranks are on my Intense SS2 no issues thus far. I have the SRS+ on my M9 and have had no issues with it either. I have run into issues with getting the LG1+ chainguide to fit properly on VPP, a little bit of sandpaper to one spot, just a bit, and it fits great. Haven't had any issues with it weakening the guides. I have LG1+ on my 951, which is kind of now the town loaner DH bike, and on my Tazer VP. As far as issues with the polygon interface I don't believe I will have any, It was originally a design used in tank transmissions, so if it is good enough for 60 ton tank, I reckon it should handle a DH crankset just fine.
  • 7 12
flag peschman (Apr 11, 2012 at 4:04) (Below Threshold)
 no one cares about how much you love intense ok
  • 3 2
 I heard lots of horror about the left arm coming loose on the e.Thirteen cranks... also lots of stories about creaking noises. All reported within the first ride or two. I've been riding on mine for a couple weeks now and have none of the issues mentioned. Must be user error on their part. It's a solid crankset, would definitely buy them again.
  • 2 0
 That happened to mine. I've only had the cranks a few months and I thought it was a bad pedal.. just had to re-tighten the non-drive side. Waiting to see if it works loose again..
  • 2 0
 I've checked mine after rides.. still bottomed out.
  • 2 0
 So you're saying one of the best LBS I've ever come across, I use the for everything, I used to do all my own wrenching as a moto x mech and long time bike mech too that we must be all doing it wrong or user error. Hardly they actually told me not to buy them and they test everything before recommending any brand, on a weekly basis you will see they're own bikes have something new on to compare and advise they're XC/AM/DH customers what works best with what frame and best product for price and performance, I trust them and after going ahead anyway, they were proved correct, maybe there is a tolerance issue or some manufacturing Monday issue.

All brands have had they're fair share execution issues and sometimes the right fit for someone is not the right fit for others, I've heard of horror stories with RF but yet I've ridden RaceFace from Turbines to Deus/Atlas std/Diablous/Atlas FRs hard for well over 15 years and never once had an issue, products rec's are hard sometimes you have to find out the hard way, I stick with what works for me these days rather than going over the fence, everything time I've gone to see if the grass is greener it backfires on me haha.
hence why I only use e13 chain ring on all my bikes, trail to DH single ring only. Wish they only still made the Ali stem regret selling mine!
  • 1 0
 Does anyone have a spare or used pulley for the guide that they want to sell?

I have this guide on my bike and it has worked well so far, except for the pulley keeps seizing up. I had no issues with the pulley on other e-Thirteen guides, though.
  • 3 2
 i had major problems with my cranks, the crank are which inserted onto the axle bent inturnaly and the crank started to wobble, the bolt unscrewed itself every run and the bb went solid after a month. bad cranks and a waste of money. i switched to truvative descend cranks 165mm and been running them for 3/4 months and had no issues etcept the bb going lose from time to time. buy saint cranks if you dont care about weight but if you do splash out on crabon xo cranks or budget descends what i got for £126 on chain reaction cycles.
  • 2 2
 I had nothing but trouble with this crankset. The original pair had the hive logo on them, they started creaking after first month. I kept using them, same problem, and after several more months a local shop got them replaced. My local mechanic could not get the second crankset set up without it creaking. He sent them back and installed the third set. It was fine for about a month and it then made a much sharper and louder crack when under heavy strain. I use a 1x9 and up steep hills it always would crack. I didn't even bother to send it back. I bought a race face set and have had zero crank issues in the four months I've had them.
  • 1 0
 Newer style bashguard is crap. I've broken 2. Needs more R&D. I also broke the same bolts that they talked about on initial installation.
  • 2 1
 I've been looking for a new crank. Was between saint/atlas. But now Im considering these, just need the new version to be available in the uk!
  • 2 2
 DON'T BUY 'EM, GET SAINTS OR ATLAS. THE OCTAGON TAPER IS A SHIT DESIGN, RIGHT BACK TO THE OLD SQUARE TAPER WOBBLE 'N' FAIL IN TWO RIDES. DO NOT BELIEVE THE HYPE! DO NOT BELIEVE THE HYPE! THEY ARE A STEP BACK TO THE PAST, JUST REHASHED AND REMARKETED, I'VE BEEN MUGGED BY THESE AND THEY SUCK BIG TIME TRUST ME
  • 1 0
 That's a pretty hot setup that I may just have to test out. I have the old e-thirteen setup with raceface evolve dh cranks. I need lighter and able to keep my strength.
  • 2 1
 I own them both, combined with the PF30 BB this setup is perfect for the new Demos.
  • 1 1
 How do the cranks work with the PF30 standard? Do you need an adapter or a different BB?
  • 3 0
 There's a separate PF30 BB, just presses into the frame. The crankset is fantastic, very easy to set up and install ideal for owners of a PF30 frame.
  • 3 2
 over priced like half the shit out ther now! cut prices down you thieving fuckers my mummy and daddy dont pay for my shit!
  • 1 1
 Yep quite a few people on here are definately on full factory mum and dad sponsorship ha ha!
  • 1 0
 Solid Chainguide have been using it for 2 years now. Cranks look nice but maybe after the Atlas FR ones I have are done.
  • 1 2
 Big pan on these. Running them for a year. The seals are totally inferior. The cups are poor. I'm on my fourth set of cups. My square taper cranks with old race face turbines are WAY BETTER. DO NOT BUY.
  • 2 0
 I used both on my AM bike and I enjoying it.
  • 1 0
 i love the chain guide and cranks but i already have race face diabloulos dh cranks Frown and cant afford it
  • 1 0
 I just hope the cranks I have now will last forever. If they die on me I'd love to pick up a set of these.
  • 1 0
 i run the same guide but a bit older. i absolutely love it. it always works perfect and it looks good to.
  • 1 0
 I didn't read all the comments so its probably been said, but they "Look" alot like saints?
  • 1 0
 Looks sick! Might have to pick some up!
  • 1 0
 Run the chain guide in white tough as nails
  • 1 0
 Why is white stronger then?!!
  • 1 0
 I'll stick to my saints Smile
  • 1 0
 Just got myself a LG1+ chain guide, so keen to try it out!
  • 3 11
flag thenotoriousmic (Apr 11, 2012 at 4:16) (Below Threshold)
 Lg1 chain guides suck the slightest sideways knock tears the whole bash plate and bottom roller clean off.
  • 2 1
 not true, ive been thrashing mine for two seasons now and its perfect...do you think e.13 would make a product just to break? most companies are better than that man!
  • 2 0
 mine had the same problem ! hamsterley rock garden, bash plate and roler got torn off, if your looing for cheap ones go for superstar, i wouldnt use them but my friends do and they love them
  • 2 1
 It's the two holes that attach the bash plate to the taco which is the weak point. Hit that sideways and there's little to stop it being ripped clean off it happens so often that I don't even bother replacing it. I just silicone it back on the zip tie it on incase the silicone fails I don't lose it. Back to mrp for me I'm not buying any e thirteen products again cheeply made over priced rubbish and if anyone buys these cranks over a set of saints then your an absolute idiot.
  • 1 0
 saints or these. i dont rely care about the weight.
  • 1 0
 I run saints but They both look similar?
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 yea they kind of do, these are more expensive tho.
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 Mmmmm delicious checkout my LG1r in my album!
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 Atlas FR or these?
  • 1 2
 ATLAS OR SAINT, BUT NEVER THESE!!
  • 1 2
 I love being censored
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