Kenda Honey Badger DHPreviously only available in a smaller volume size, the Honey Badger goes big in 2014 with a new 2.4" width in 650B diameter. Unlike the more all-around 'Badger that has been in Kenda's lineup for awhile now, this new DH version features a full-on downhill casing that it deserves and revised lugs that better suit its intentions. Two different rubber compounds are used for its construction, with the usual softer make-up on the shoulders and a stiffer rubber found down the center.
www.kendatire.com
Easton Lock-On gripsGrips are like saddles and shoes in that it really does boil down to personal preference, but Easton's Lock-On grips have been universally accepted by most of the Pinkbike staff as THE grips to have. The are offered in two diameters - 30mm and 33mm - and are made from a different material than the usual Kraton rubber, with Easton saying that makes for ''
increased comfort and durability.'' We'd tend to agree with them, and a set usually ends up on most of the test bikes that we spend time on due to both their comfort and great traction. Their aluminum lock-on clamps also sit outside of the split plastic internal barrel, meaning that they won't damage carbon handlebars, and both inside and and outside collars are protected from making contact with the rider's hands by grip material that extends up and over them. And there's colours, lots of colours.
www.eastoncycling.com
InterLockOkay, so a bike lock might not be as interesting as a wireless electronic dropper seat post or new downhill fork, but we think that the InterLock is clever enough to warrant showing off. What makes it interesting? It's a short but burly looking cable lock that is stowed inside of a special seat post, and you simply pull it out and run it through your frame, rear wheel, and bike rack when it comes time to leave your rig outside. The lock's head slides into a storage position atop the post, and we couldn't get the stowed cable to make any rattling sounds when shaking the bike hard so it shouldn't make any noise when riding. The cable isn't long enough to run through your front wheel, though, so keep that in mind if you live in a high-crime area. Post sizes currently available are 25.4 and 27.2mm, with a 31.6mm option to be added soon.
www.the-interlock.com
SEQLite Racing CassetteIt's been interesting to see drivetrain development over the last few years, with single ring setups proving to be very workable for average riders in real world settings now that wider range cassettes are being used. Cassette conversions that see a small cog swapped out for a dinner plate sized one on the opposite end are also helping matters, but we came across a number of complete cassettes at the Taipei show that feature an 11 - 40 tooth spread that will do the same. The SEQLite Racing Cassette is one such example, with 10 cogs and a two-piece design that uses steel for the smaller cogs and aluminum for the larger ones. Gearing options include the aforementioned 11 - 40 model, as well as an even wider 11 - 42 spread.
www.seqlite.com
TranzX electronic dropper postTranzX might not be known for causing a stir when it comes to mountain bike components, but their JD-YSP06 dropper seat post looks likely to do exactly that. No, it isn't its sexy name, but rather its wireless electronic control that allows the seat to not only extended with the push of the handlebar mounted remote button, but also be lowered without requiring the rider's weight to be on the saddle! The un-weighted lowering is courtesy of a small electric motor - that's the rather unsightly package at the post's head - and the remote communicates via a 2.4GHz signal that does away with any cables. No word on when it will be available, but we're hoping that it's soon.
www.tranzxpst.com
By using a 9t, they can lower the front ring's size and thus be having a smaller biggest cog at the back, therefore lowering the weight.
Recon 11-40 picture:
files.feathery-carbon.com/produktbilder/recon/mtb/titan/shimano/10_11-40/11-40_01.jpg
yoda.densan.ca/kmr/bikes/mukluk7.JPG
yoda.densan.ca/kmr/bikes/mukluk10.JPG
You can also just search ebay for recon 11-36 and you'll find examples with pictures to show the backside closer in.
First impressions when it turned up were good, you can easily see why it costs what it cost with a lot of machining done to keep the weight down but strength up. Installation was a piece of cake, I had left enough links in my chain for the new ring when I had converted the bike to 1x10 so no need to plan around there. Quick play be the b tension screw and it was running smooth straight away.
The two aspects of the conversions that worth talking about is how the 42T ring and the 17T missing ring affects riding. Yes the bigger ring is less smooth in the changing gear (both selecting and disengaging) compared to the rest of the cassette but one you plan the gear changing a little it before you need to its fine (think off it the same way you select the right height on a dropper post before the obstacle). I only tended to use it as a bail out gear than as the main port of call on all climbs, it just allows you to keep renching the bike up the climb rather than get off and walk. Because it is not use all that often I can see myself transferring it over when the rest of the cassette has worn out so it should last for years.
If I had the money would I go for a 1x11 set up? Yes, the 42T-10Twould works for most people's riding and be a better system that is smotherer and more professional but the cost is far too high at the moment for most riders budgets. Would I go for a 10-40T proper recon cassettle? Yes but it costs way too much for me at the moment in the ti set up, even with the ti, steel and alu mix it still cost a lot more than a regular cassette. Would I recommend one up 42T ring (or hope's new 40T ring), yes. It's cheaper by a long way, works just as well if you are willing to live with the lag in time for changing gears and the jump in teeth size.
intereseting article about it:
www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/biking/Who-Pinched-My-Ride.html
All a lock can do is slow down the process of stealing a bike and avoid "oportunistic" thefts. At times I just use Paracord and knot my cheap old banger to a post so it would not be gone after i get out of the store or bar and it worked so far...
For that mater i think its a great product and i anyway doubt that someone with a nice all carbon 20 pound super expensive bike or any other kind of serious mountain bike would install this post thinking the real issue is the post and the weight.
I am pretty sure My mum and my dad would love this lock on their daily used 500 bucks cruisers. Something for the next birthdays!
great!
A hundred people saw us (and the smoke and sparks) and NO-ONE asked a question. She had her receipt with her just in case.
I don't even buy into the argument that having a bike locked up in a busy, open place is safer… most people wouldn't intervene in a major crime let alone say anything to someone who is obviously stealing a bike and most thieves know this.
The best deterrent is to use an absolute piece of shit bike with a lock that takes more effort to cut than the bike is worth.
(that's what she said)
However, this is where the similarities end. If you would examine a honey badger, you would notice the very short knobs excreting from its carcass. Unfortunately, this means that they are definitely not mud spikes, so don't waste your money friend if you're expecting them to hold a line during a wet autumn day.
You should look elsewhere for cheap rainy tires.
Carry a lighter to remove candle wax.
Whats to stop someone just taking off the seat and stealing the bike. Leaving you with a seat to walk home with.
"you simply pull it out and run it through your frame, rear wheel, and bike rack when it comes time to leave your rig outside."