Orbea Loki 2016: First Look
Orbea have been pushing hard with new models for 2016. Recently, we've seen the updated carbon Occam trail bikes and a revamped Rallon. This time, we take a look at the new Loki - a hardtail with 27.5 plus sized wheels that takes its name from a shape shifting Norse God. With the Loki, Orbea wanted to add an affordable and simple bike to their range and say something like:
"Loki’s fun-loving personality is perfect for everyone, it's a slack, stompy trail bike that relishes new terrain."
The aluminum framed steed joins the forthcoming wave of 27.5+ tire bikes, but Orbea's 'Double Duty' design means the Loki can also be used in 29" wheel format. There are three builds to choose from, the cheaper two models offer choice of wheel size, and come with the Orbea Digit dropper seatpost. The Flagship Loki H-LTD is only available with 27.5+ wheels and tires and comes in at $2999 USD, with prices filtering down to $2099 USD and $1499 for the H10 and H30 models. Orbea.com
The Loki frame set is constructed from a hydro-formed alloy tubes using principles learnt from the design of the Occam and Rallon bikes. Features include an integrated headset with a tapered steerer, Boost 148+ rear hub spacing and a 160mm post mount rear brake. Around the bottom bracket area we find 73mm BSA threaded shell, ISCG 05 chain guide mounts, a removable direct mount for a front derailleur and plenty of room for any chainring configuration of 1X, 2X or 3X systems. A 31.6mm seat tube has a cable routing option for stealth dropper posts, all cables can be routed internally through the down tube which also has mounts for one water bottle.
Orbea asked themselves the question - "Why should hardtail mountain bikes share twitchy geometry with world cup, XC race frames?" I assume the answer was no as they wanted to create a fun bike for the masses, not for the few at the sharp end of the cross country racing circuits. For the Loki, they have headed down the long, low and slack geometry route which is taking hold across the industry to varying degrees. Considering the large wheel diameter and short 35mm stems spec'd on the Loki, the head angle is a slack 67 degrees. Reach on a medium frame is perhaps below average at 412mm, but sizing does extend to an XL frame with a 452mm reach, not huge numbers but stack height is high with the 29" length fork which allows a bit more room in the cockpit. The chainstays are kept tight at 430mm, super short considering the fact a 3" tire will fit easily and even a 29" x 2.4". The bottom bracket is has a -60mm drop to drop your weight well below the axles and give a stable ride.
Loki H-Ltd - $2999
There are three models of Loki to choose from: The budget H30 comes in at $1499 USD and includes a Digit dropper seat post and has options of 27.5+ or 29" wheels. The H10 offers the same but with an upgraded parts list for $2099. The Loki H-LTD is the top of the line bike at $2999 and only available with 27.5+ wheels, but does boast a Kashima coated FOX Float 34 fork, Rock Shox Reverb and an XT drivetrain. All bikes are delivered with Maxxis rubber, 3.0" Chronicles for the Plus bikes and 2.4" Ardent's on the 29" bikes. Along with all Orbea bikes, the Loki is available through the 'MyO' customisation program. Choose your frame size and basic build kit, then choose from extra options of paint and parts to suit your desires. Orbea then build the bikes in Spain when your order is processed and your bespoke bike will arrive at your local dealer within three weeks.
Loki H10 27+ $2099
Loki H30 27+ $1499
I love the simplicity of a hardtail, set your sag up front...
...and pump 15psi in to the Plus sized tires and your off.
 | I spent an afternoon riding the Loki in Ainsa in Spain, the location for the forthcoming Round 7 of the Enduro World Series in September. In the days prior I was riding the Orbea Rallon and Occam models, but throwing a leg over the Loki left me pleasantly surprised. Orbea have nailed the geometry which gives the Loki a comfortable riding position and big stability, combined with the chunky tires makes it a really easy bike to get on and ride. Climbing the loose gravel roads in Ainsa, the grip levels were huge and seemed to make molehills out of mountains, perhaps not the fastest climber of the week but certainly the easiest. Our guide was a local guy, born and bred in these mountains, he was also pretty handy on a bike and rode his personal Rallon all week. I was boggled by the ease of which I kept him in sight compared to the other bikes I had been riding. When a late afternoon storm reared its head and soaked the trails, it was interesting watching him skip and slide around, while I followed on a direct trajectory with little deflection from the line. Considering the semi-slick Chronicle tires which barely have any knobs to speak of and no square edge to bite. Even through super rough sections the Loki floated through, keeping up with ease. Overall a simple, fun machine with surprising capabilities. .- Paul Aston |
Find out more at Orbea.com / @orbea
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Can wait to ride a 27.5+ bike. As a fan of hardtails these bikes sound like the ride will be more comfortable, probably close to a FS but more easy to maintain. Just saying!
Damn these marketing divisions are good at making people dumb!
Cars on the other hand are different, although an overinflated tyre means no grip & uneven wear etc...
I'm not dissing you - just saying run your own tests and you'll find otherwise as I did! I used to be in your camp but have learnt better!
What I reckon also affects people's opinions is peers. If, for example, ctd07 rode with people on regular trails who run low pressures, but he's just naturally faster than them already, it may go some way to fog the facts/physics. Hypothetical of course. Same with wheel size, type of bike, stem length, bar width etc etc. He's right about the road or really smooth trails. And as much as it feels nice to pop about on high pressures like you're on a dj bike... It's not going to cut it when it's rough, in a straight line or in corners. Think about a dh bike, the point of it is to keep contact with the ground.. Same with tyres. Too hard and you will bounce off the roots and rocks. And slide around in corners like the Dukes of Hazard
There are two types of rolling resistance; contact patch that affects acceleration and deflection that affects momentum. Contact patch has to do with the amount of rubber in contact with the ground when the object is weighted and in contact with the ground. Deflection has to do with the amount your tire absorbs the terrain as as it is coming at you.
The more you increase your tire pressure the less contact patch you have. This is why when you inflate your tires to high pressures the amount of effort it takes to get the wheel rolling is lower because you have less rubber resisting against you.
However, with higher pressures when you hit an object, your tire is more likely to deflect of off the object rather than rolling through the object. This is added resistance as well because it slows you down and takes more effort to keep your momentum up and your tires rolling.
The most correlative would be road cycling. In track, they run 21-22c tires and of 140psi and sometimes 150 or 160psi. They can do this because the surface of the track is extremely smooth, and less rubber contact WILL be faster. Now, for an outdoor race, they tend to run 23-25c tires, with the latter now being more popular, and pressures in the 90-120psi range, depending on conditions. A rider in the Paris-Roubaix will likely run on the lower side of the pressures to smooth out to rough and to prevent him from running off course.
This can all be applied to mountain bikes as well. You tend to find XC folk running smaller tires to decrease contact patch, but usually run pressures in the high-teens to low twenties. This is not only to increase traction, but to smooth out the trail making their effort go further. Also why a large amount of riders now ride tubeless. To increase traction, lessen pinch flats, but most of all create a smoother ride. No longer to you have the added stiffness of a tube AND a tire. Now there is just a tire that falls between the stiffness and thickness of a tire/tube combo. With tubes, I used to have to run my pressure in the mid-thirties to prevent a flat. Now running tubeless I can run in the range of 25-30psi. The few instances I have had to run a tube because of a sliced tire on a tubeless set-up, I immediately noticed to increased effort to keep the tire rolling and tracking straight. This resulted in more fatigue and soreness in my lower back from the increase in strength to keep the bike in line, and from the added jolt through the tires.
triathlete-europe.competitor.com/2011/05/03/facts-figures-myths-optimum-tyre-pressure
This is the first well thought through 27+ I've seen....looks proportioned for tall people. Comfortable, but slack and strong enough to hit some lively stuff
I'm looking at this for my main cruising and play around bike... The DH and AM rigs can have a rest
26+... Egor.... It's alive!!
All these other tires show up on bikes at launches, but you can't actually BUY the damn things. I put my 29er wheels back on until tires actually are available for us normal plebs.
What's mine that shall be off?
I think this looks like the first orbea I would actually own, as opposed to just thinking they're nice. But having to have 27+ as stock has upset me. I'd just get told off for running way too much air in them. Lush bikes, cool concept 27+.. if you can handle low pressures, but no cigar with the inconsistent wheelsize options throughout the models.