Pedals, Hubs and More - Interbike 2015
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 We've shown you VP's range of VX clipless pedals before, but the company better known for their platform offerings has since tweaked the design for better performance. They'll still be compatible with SPD cleats, meaning that you won't ever have trouble tracking down cleats when the time comes, but VP has tinkered with the binding mechanism itself. The result is a higher release tension on the far end of the scale that hasn't effected the softest setting, as well as lighter entry action that should make it easier to clip in. Internally, they spin on two sealed bearings and two LSL (Lightweight Self Lubing) bushings, and VP also sell all of the internal bits separately. |
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| True Precision's Stealth mountain bike hub boasts what is essentially instantaneous engagement yet has basically zero freehub drag due to a one-way roller bearing clutch, something that also makes for a silent ride when you're coasting (hence the Stealth name). True Precision has updated the design to include better sealing all around, with a new seal between the freehub body and the hub shell, as well as an aluminum dust cap that protects the new sealed bearings (which replace needle bearings in the older design) in the freehub body. |
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| This push bike from Kiddimoto is almost cool enough to make me want a kid of my own. Almost, but not quite. MotoGP fans will recognize the #93 as Marc Marquez's digits, and Kiddimoto even offers an all red version with Ducati-esque lines that's a pint-sized model of World Superbike legend Carl Fogarty's ride. |
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| I'm probably more of a sucker for dog toys than my dog is, which is why Cycle Dog's Flat Tire Flyer had me more interested in a frisbee than would usually be considered normal. Cycle Dog reclaims used tubes (get the frisbee's name?) and turns them into dog toys like this frisbee, balls and chew toys, and they even make about a thousand different coloured leashes and collars out of the discarded rubber from flat tires. |
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| Kore's 40 and 42 tooth Mega Range cogs will extend the gearing range of either SRAM or Shimano ten-speed drivetrains by slipping onto the freehub body before you side the rest of your cassette on, sans 15 or 17 tooth cog. The CNC'd chain rings are available in black, blue, green, purple, red, orange and silver, and the 42 tooth versions weighs 81 grams. Kore also includes a longer B-tension screw in the kit that's required for pulley clearance. |
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| There are a load of different narrow / wide chain rings to pick from, most of which are pretty much the same thing, but Kore's Stronghold chain ring is actually quite different: tiny bumps have been machined into the tops of the teeth that are said to actively hold the chain from bouncing off vertically. The shape releases the chain as the ring rotates, though, thereby not causing any chain suck. The Stronghold chain rings are available in 30, 32, 34 and 36 tooth sizes, and in all of the common mounting options. |
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For the same kind of weight they can be heavilly machined out.
At the end of the day it doesn't look as bling (unless its the 80s...), and is tougher on tooling
www.hopetech.com/product/retainer-ring
I put thick dabbles of very thick/tacky grease in my freehub and ratchet ring to achieve silence. Lasts a few weeks or so depending on how often it's ridden. Sometimes you can tweak the spring ring that applies pressure to the pawls to loosen up by taking it out and carefully bending it, opening it up. That makes the biggest difference of all adjustments or grease. But you might risk losing too much tension and the pawls not ratcheting quickly/accurately/powerfully enough and risk stripping something overtime. But you can usually tell pretty quick.
"The engagement system on Stealth hubs is the fastest on the market. This translates into zero lost motion when starting to pedal."
I've raced them and I've never been able to feel a gap if there was one. Again, that was in the BMX day's. But I never had issues. Plus there is a really cool hummmmmm when costing.
That's what people say, but my experience was much different.
I dropped 1-2 chains per ride. I dropped chains riding rush in coner canyon for christs sake on the most bermed and smooth trail in that canyon.
If i went and rode the south side of suncrest where its rocky I'd drop them even more. Granted, this was on a 4" travel 29er xc bike.
I feel like very rough trails for long periods of time are what drops chains. I never dropped one in park city, but i dropped them in corner all the time and when i was blasting down gravel roads. I went back to 2x10 and went back to having a much more reliable setup. God forbid my bike weighed 380g more (i weighed)
I also killed 2 derailleur clutches and 3 nw chainrings per season. If i used a chainguide i could use them for longer and just use 1 of each per season.
1x10/expander cogs were a bandaid to fixing price gauging by srams 1x11.
Now prices are down, availability is up there really is no reason to not get an 11 speed setup. An xt casette with an expander cog is 2/3rds the cost of just nutting up and going 11 speed now you dont even need an xd driver.
The reliablity and lack of tinkering required is worth the price difference alone. Once you've owned an 11 speed i dont think an expander cog even becomes a thought.
Where all my arguments fail, is for lift serviced dh rides, wich you dont even need an expander cog for.
I too have dropped plenty of chains with a narrow wide....though usually it was while attempting to pedal through rough terrain...or using a long cage dérailleur...or improper chain length.
Cost for 11 spd stuff is definitely down...but a normal old 10 spd 11-36 is usually plenty. so I personally just buy cheap 10 spd cassettes and live with it--though I'm still relatively young and not too heavy.
your mileage may vary.
I also suspect chain length has a lot to do with it. I don't set it up how sram/shimano tells, I just compress the suspension, completely extend the derailleur and then add a link and call it a day, so it is pretty much always at the bare minimum. Never had an issue. For both shimano and Sram, you can adjust the tightness of the clutch. I can't say for shimano but I know that the sram ones tend to come loose over time, you might want to check that out.
Always had a lot of problems with chain guides/tensioners and I'm really glad they're gone. For the record, I've been using a wolftooth ring paired up with X9 derailleurs.
And yes, if you buy a complete drivetrain, might as well pony up the little extra for 11 speed. If you have a 10speed setup that is fine and you just want a little more range, getting a cog is much much cheaper than changing your entire drivetrain.
I tried everything from 2 links too short, to 2 links too long.
Sram clutches use the t55 to tighten (or large allen trick) and shimano clutches use a small 8ish mm bolt under the clutched cover. New shimano is suppose to be adjustable externally but I've never used one of those.
Once my narrow wide had 300 miles on it, it might have well been just a normal SS chainring for all intents and purposes.
I've said it over and over again, (at least in the case of OneUp's parts) expanded 1x10, if tuned correctly, is as good as factory parts.
That said, I agree with just going to XT 1x11. Had the 11-42 cassette been available ANYWHERE at build time, I would have gone that route no question.