Pit Stop: Leogang DH World Cup

 10 mins! image the lungs you'd need for that...

 Those were pre Y2K rules aoneal, post Y2K rules are 420 seconds.

 @erbsforlife: I trust you

 While wearing the correct national jersey so you don`t get fined

 Why not just buckets in the ice bath!?

 @slowrider73:

yes. in-bath rip using a traffic cone bath bong

 and this riders neither has lunch nor dinner...

 @vhdh666: All the time is snack time with this guy I'm sure.

 @erbsforlife: that's like a 6 minute rip

 @snottrail: You have to wear Jamacan nation sleeve. No matter what country you're from.

 @skipWorkGoRide: its a new mtb training tool that makes you send it higher than ever before..

 I'm pulling for him!

 Bryceland, Ed Masters, maybe Gee...

 Letter rip!

 I hope he wins with speed that high

 Maybe Eddie crashed on purpose in Ft Bill to avoid getting tested...

 I hope they don't take too big of a hit this weekend since the track isn't too sticky......

 This is going to bubble over.

 It will be a drag if he doesn't make the podium.

 Token rider?

 track conditions are dank...

 someone's gonna vaporize the competition...

 hope nobody takes too strong a hit from some trees...

 I'm sure they'll light it up from the top

 Yeah, I caught that STD.

 Until you realise that you probably dont bleed brakes as much as whoevers doing that bleed and ruin your pads by getying fluid all on them...lol. Then again, avids bleed procedure would make that pretty hard. No experience with saints.

 @PJD1: It's not that hard either.

 check out the Hayes bleeding tool. it's basically this plus some shims to get it right the first time. saved me so much time bleeding.

 @drummuy04: ahh. Just thinking of the old hope mono m4's i had at one time. Miss the master cylinder, accidently take bleed screw out half turn too far..overfill cylinder(pouring right from bottle) seemed like no matter what some fluid was going where I didnt want it.

 Right? I've been running my Hope V2's for 5 years plus now. The only time I had to bleed them was once or twice when they were overdue for service. Sent them to Hope for a rebuild and haven't had to mess with them since. So.... Like two or three bleeds in 5 years. Hope's are the sh*t!!!!!

 think you're missing the point here - think about how often adam brayon's mechanic bleeds his v4's brakes on world cup weekends...

 Lol. Thease guys just live the dream. Fresh bleed, new tires, fixing shox right at the base of the mountain. Plus, they geg it dor free. Talk about getting that new bike feel on the daily.

 adjusting the rear shox, switching springs to the terrain for each course should be all you really need to do. taring it apart seems just a little bit too much unless you are moving shims around. what else would you be taking a rear shox apart for? I guess if ur around with not much to do but wait with a bit of anxoity before a race, i can see myself just reviewing every detail over and over.... hopes for life!

 @nfa2005: well, they get new brake fluid all the time. Why not for or shock oil? Haha jks.

 how can you get the spelling (brakes/breaks) right the 1st time then not the second?? Actually, 'breaks' is correct in my experience of Hope units... As you were.

 @Obidog: sorry, i was born into a disordered kinda family. we still eat toe nails for breakfast and WERE was my autocorrect dammit!

 @PJD1: man i wish i can watch these guys do all this work, i wanna learn this type of thing

 @tmwjr777: my whyte 46 has hope mono minis from 2002.never been bled once! If I could afford it all my bikes would have hope brakes.

 @Max-Black-Cycles:
Brake fluid still needs to be changed regularly. It can absorb moisture from the air. It can loose it's ability to absorb heat. Etc

 @nfa2005: from a guy who does it all himself, it's really alot easier then people think...avid are a bit strenuous due to degas sing the brake fluid, but its still easy. There's a lot to learn, but it's all relative. Every fork(almost), has a service manual somewhere, follow it. Brakes, same deal. Derailleurs, tuning is all the same.

www.sheldonbrown.com, this guy's teaches all, alot is more in depth then you'd ever need.

Parktool has alot of instructional stuff on its website, as does pinkbike, and finally youtube can be helpfull...the odd time instructable has some good info...

It's just screws, nuts, bolts, brings, seals, lockrings, air, oil, brake fluid, grease and chain lubes.. alot of these don't really even have to be "bike specific". I repack my bearings with run of the mill all purpose grease, and some brakes allow the use of regular old dot 4 from crappy can....

PM if your really lost, never mind helping a rider avoid 35$ an hour shop fees. Plus when you're confident in what you're doing, you can go under table with other peoples bikes (friends, friends of friends and relatives etc..) downside is, you have to invest in a fair amount of tools, wich again don't need to be "bike specific" for the most part, they're are some though...

 @WolfStoneD: Shimano uses mineral oil which does not absorb moisture.

 @BenoNZ:

True. But water can still enter the system.

If you've ever bleed shimano brakes after a season you'll notice how it goes in a nice pink clear colour, and comes out black. Shimano recommends regular fluid changes.

See the below link for a good read on the various fluids used today.
www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/dot-brake-fluid-vs-mineral-oil

 Weirdly I just looked at some rotors galfer make for motorbikes and they all have a much more normal design. Only mtbs get these wierd rotors it seems. Wonder why??

 The braking pressure rotates in and distributes the forces more evenly. Or maybe the forces involved in mtb vs moto are so small, they can just design them to look pretty without worry about exceeding the forces required to fail...

 I thought they looked cool. Hate their pads from experience, though.

 There is a long contact area between the the two pieces behind the rivet, and the angle would have them driving tighter together as braking force is applied and distribute the force over the long contact area - the rivet is simply to keep them connected. If the rotor was run backwards it would probably fail spectacularly, and quickly as the two angled surfaces would be separating, and only the rivet, and thin backing of metal would be there to hold things together. - I think.

 yeah I see that. Just don't see any advantages over a more traditional design like Hopes. The rivet placement is odd in the Galfer rotor as it wont really allow for heat expansion unless the rivet is very loose. If the rivet is loose enough to allow for expansion then the angled surface is going to get very loose very quickly. Just seems not as good as the traditional design to me.

 Its just a boxxer with a ohlins cartridge. They work with coil and air springs and no it doesn't have extra springs. you can already buy them for 40s they just aren't out yet for boxxers. you can check out feature here www.ohlins.com/product/stx22-for-fox40

 I'm wondering if it's actually an Ohlins chassis with a boxxer sticker to help cover that up. From what I know the inner stanchions of the Rock Shox products are not held to tight enough tolerances for Ohlins to make a cartridge kit that they are happy with. The inner diameter of the Fox 40s are consistent enough.. that was at least the case last year, but who knows, maybe something has changed.

 @nismo325: Except the top cap is visibly different than what they show on the website. Theres zero need and financial justification to change the layout of the top cap unless they've changed something internal that corresponds with the top cap.

 @cthorpe: fox and boxxer run different size stanchions so they may have have had to adjust layout to work on both forks. If you look both forks still have two screws on top that look exactly the same. Also they aren't going to give the boxxer version different features than the fox version what would be the point off that? its just a cartridge replacement like fast and avalanche. This is all kinda old news.

 fuck UCI with a rhino dick

 And that Ohlins Boxxer cartridge please!

 When bleeding a brake, you'd usually remove the pads, push the pistons all the way back and then use a generic brake/piston stop. Once the bleed is done you have to pump the brakes to re-engage the pistons to come into contact with the rotor again. Guessing that using a rotor instead of the generic brake/piston stopper, saves a step and maybe even allows for a slightly more accurate amount of brake fluid into the system.

 @adrock-whistler: yeah you'd definitely get more fluid in the system that way for less freeplay before bite point. basically the same as advancing the pads with the rotor out of the brake (as has been mentioned by the writers on pinkbike many a time) except with keeping a full reservoir.

 So perhaps we should grind down our yellow bleedblocks then. To avoid contaminating the pads. I've been looking at ways to improve my XTR's.

 Keep in mind if you bleed this way with worn pads, you'll rub with new ones until you bleed again. These guys probably throw new pads on for every bleed, but for me, I'd rather bleed with a known dimensional bleed spacer, like the bleed block.

 You're also running a much higher risk of getting mineral oil or DOT fluid on the pads, which would negate bleeding the brakes in the first place. I'll stick with the regular bleed block but do a lever bleed when the rear brake is back on the bike.

 Yes you have a greater risk of pad contamination, but if you where the kind of wrench to do that you wouldn't be working a WC pit. Less free play at the lever, more power and bite at the caliper.