Before beginning, it is important to understand the inner workings of what you'll be working on. Prior to turning a hex key or pouring any oil, have a look at the instructions provided by RockShox
. Read through the steps before starting, and if you are not absolutely sure that you can handle this repair, take it to your local shop. Likewise, you'll need all of the tools listed below in order to do this job correctly. Do not start the repair if you are missing anything
1. Eat, drink, and take your time - no hurries, especially if it is your first time doing this
2. Grease for general use - use on main spring, negative spring, and the spring's detent
3. Thin suspension grease - used on bushings, oil seals etc...
4. Suspension oil - 5W for the damper and the RockShox recommended 15W for lubrication
5. Plastic bottle or any other containers are always useful to pour used oil into. Reuse first, then recycle
6. Paper towel or rag
7. 5mm and 2mm hex keys - 2mm for removing the compression cover (model 318, the 302 does not have) and the 5mm to loosen the foot bolts
8. 24mm socket and ratchet wrench
9. Syringes measuring cup to measure the oil volume (15ml in each leg for lube, 200ml in damper)
Hammer or rubber mallet
Step 1. Remove the front wheel and brake caliper, then remove the fork from the bike.
Step 2. Open the rebound and compression to the fullest position, taking note of your settings before doing so. Remove the red knob (rebound) - just pull with your hand.
Step 3. Use 5mm hex key to loosen both foot bolts by 3 or 4 turns. Do not remove either completely.
Step 4. Tap both foot nuts with the rubber mallet until you feel the rods come free of the lowers. Remove the foot bolts, being careful of any lube oil that may drain from the fork lowers.
Step 5. Pull the lowers off of the stanchion tubes and set them aside after cleaning.
Step 6. Using the 2mm hex key, unscrew the small bolt that holds the compression knob in place. Remove both and place somewhere safe. (only for Domain 318, the 302 does not have adjustable compression.)
Step 7. Loosen the damper side top cap with the 24mm socket wrench.
Step 8. Holding the crown and stanchions upright, pull up to remove the compression damping assembly. Wiggling it side to side gently may make this easier, but pull slowly to keep the damping oil from making a mess. If your Domain is the 302 version, it has a cap in the place of the compression cartridge. Pour the remaining oil out of the fork and into your container.
Step 9. Using the 24mm socket, remove the spring side fork cap. Now you can take out the spring.
Step 10. Remove both the damping rod from the right side, and the dummy rod from the spring side.
At this point, your workbench should look something like this:
1. Top right stanchion
2. Top Left stanchion
3. Damping rod
4. Spring side dummy rod
5. Negative spring
6. Main spring
7. Spring spacer
Step 11. Grease both the negative and main spring. Insert the rod into the left stanchion with the negative spring up, then drop in main spring.
Step 12. Pull the dummy rod to full extension through the bottom of the stanchion tube. If you're having trouble aligning the rod with with the hole, you can use your 2mm hex key to help locate it.
Step 13. Once you are sure that the spring is seated correctly, reinstall the spring side top cap.
Step 14. Use a rag to clean the inside of the damping side stanchion, being sure that it is free of any bits of rubber from worn O-rings or lint from the rag.
Step 15. After submerging the rebound piston in the new oil, install the damping rod into the stanchion tube. Pull it gently to full extension.
Step 16. Measure out exactly 200ml of 5W damping oil. It is imperative to not use too much - this will cause hydraulic lock and prevent full travel, or too little - you'll have inconsistent damping.
Step 17. Pour 1/3 of the new oil into the damping side stanchion tube. Cycle the rebound rod gently until you see the oil level drop. Repeat until the full 200ml is in the leg.
Step 18. With the rebound rod fully extended, gently sink the compression assembly into the oil and tighten the top cap with your socket wrench.
Step 19. Take a few minutes to thoroughly clean the inside of the fork lowers before beginning to reassemble the fork.
Step 20. Spread your thin suspension grease onto the bushings, seals, and the gap between the oil seals and dust wipers.
Step 21. Align the stanchions with the fork lowers and very carefully slide them past the outer dust seals. It can help to start on an angle to prevent tearing the rubber dust seal. This may take a few tries.
Step 22. Measure out 15ml of 15W suspension oil. With the fork upside down, pour in the lube oil through the foot bolt holes at the bottom of each leg. Each side should receive 15ml.
Step 23. Still holding the fork inverted, slide the lowers down the stanchion tubes until both the damping and spring rod make contact with the bottom of the lowers. Reinstall both foot bolts to the proper torque, being sure to use the hollow bolt on the damping side and the solid bolt on the spring side.
Be sure to go for a short test ride before heading out to your local trails. You should not only take special care to make sure your caliper and stem bolts are properly torqued, but the fork should also feel smooth and consistent. If you have any doubts, take your bike to the local shop and have them do a proper check over of it.
Step 24. Reinstall both the rebound and compression knobs. Reset them back to the same position that you had them in prior to rebuilding the fork.