RockShox Reverb Seatpost Bleed - How To

Feb 22, 2011 at 0:06
Feb 22, 2011
by Mike Levy
 
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Inside you can watch a video detailing the steps to bleed RockShox's Reverb seatpost.

It is important to have a good understanding of the process before starting any job. Prior to turning a torx key or filling a syringe, you should not only watch the video below, but also read through the instructions provided by RockShox. Doing this before beginning will make this and any other repair much easier. If you are not absolutely sure that you can handle this repair, take it to your local shop. Likewise, you'll need all of the tools listed below in order to do this job correctly. Do not start the repair if you are missing anything.


What's needed: T10 and T25 torx keys, torque wrench (with both T10 and T25 sockets), RockShox 2.5w suspension fluid, RockShox Reverb bleed kit, nitrile goves and safety glasses, isopropyl alcohol, rag.


Some pointers before you begin...

• Bleeding the Reverb post will likely require you to adjust the position of both the remote on your bar (and because of this, probably your brake lever as well) and the post in your frame. I like to use a White-out pen to make small witness marks before I move anything because it allows me to move it back to the correct position quickly after the repair is done.
• As with most any repair, this job can be made much easier by clamping the bike in a repair stand. When doing this, take care to not accidentally clamp the Reverb's hydraulic line as this will damage it. Likewise, do not clamp the post's upper slider. Loosen the seat binder bolt and raise the post if there is not enough room to hold the bike by the post's lower tube.
• Both the remote's and the post's torx fittings are quite small. Once removed, put them somewhere safe where they will not roll away, never to be seen again.
• The Reverb uses 2.5w suspension fluid to control its actuation. Using anything other than suspension fluid can damage the seals and internals of the post. Never use anything but the recommended fluid.
• Many Reverb users are looking for the post to return faster than the stock "fast" setting. The key to increase its return speed is to dial the post's Speed Adjuster to the full slow position before beginning the bleed process, then return it to the fast position once done.
• As with any other hydraulic system, air is the enemy. Be sure to set the bike at an angle that has the remote's bleed opening higher than the bleed port on the post's head. This will encourage air to purge from the system.
• While the process is nearly drip free, it is still a good idea to wrap a rag around the post to prevent any drips from creating a mess.


Watch and learn how to bleed the RockShox Reverb post:



Have you done this job? Want to add a tip or hint of your own? Put it down below!
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22 Comments

  • + 11
flag kanioni (Feb 22, 2011 at 9:09)
 Sounds kinda awkward that you must bleed your seatpost Big Grin
  • + 4
flag ns-pimplite (Feb 22, 2011 at 20:57)
 Am i the only one seeing the writing super big? sorry for the off topic question and thats so cool i had no idea they worked like that!
  • + 2
flag tonka-bike Plus (Feb 23, 2011 at 10:51)
 Nope your not the only one. I'm seeing it too.
  • + 1
flag blackwell (Feb 23, 2011 at 20:57)
 Yea same my writings huge
[Reply]
  • + 10
flag skusedh (Feb 22, 2011 at 1:59)
 i want mike back !!!
  • + 3
flag pperini (Feb 22, 2011 at 5:20)
 im still happy and problem-free with mis KS950
  • + 7
flag mikelevy Mod Plus (Feb 22, 2011 at 9:16)
 I'll be back soon.
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag Kerplunk (Mar 31, 2012 at 17:09)
 I now own two of these great posts, and I've learned a lot of tips to help you out, particularly in the area of bleeding these correctly, which the instructions still do not cover. 1.) Make sure that not only is the remote actuator higher than the seat post, but also that the hose to the actuator is lower as well (i.e. the natural bend of the hose may make it rise over the actuator). You may need to temporarily secure it lower - this is a big deal as otherwise air will be trapped in the high point of the hose. Due to message length limitations, I have broken these tips into three parts. Read further.
  • + 1
flag Kerplunk (Mar 31, 2012 at 17:09)
 2.) You need to ensure that the seat post is extended all the way out. If you were unfortunate enough to have had a hydraulic failure while it was in the lowered position, you will need to bleed the system as per the instructions enough to bring sufficient hydraulic pressure to raise the seat (the plunger will likely still be mushy and the seat will raise slowly). This will require removing both syringes and reinstalling the seat and actuator bleed screws while ensuring that the actuator plunger is in its fully extended position. Once the seat is in its fully raised position, repeat the bleed process, ensuring that the speed adjuster is in the slow position.
  • + 1
flag Kerplunk (Mar 31, 2012 at 17:10)
 3.) When all air has been removed from the system remove the seat post syringe first. You will likely see a bit of airspace which can be taken care of by carefully pressing down on the remote actuator syringe, thereby forcing just enough fluid up and out the seat post while carefully reinstalling the seat post bleed screw. When you remove the actuator-side syringe, a tiny bit of fluid should weep from the bleed screw hole. Immediately reinstall the actuator bleed screw. If done right, you will notice that the hydraulic pressure is firm and that when pressed and released the actuator plunger will immediately return to the fully extended position. Also, if you then turn your speed screen to the + fast position, your seat will rise substantially quicker than it does from the factory. Done right, this is a 10 minute job. Good luck!!
[Reply]
  • + 2
flag rustybones (Feb 22, 2011 at 5:55)
 Mine worked straight out the box and is the absolute titays! Always thought they were bullsh*t but wouldn't ride trails without one now...
  • + 1
flag rustybones (Feb 22, 2011 at 6:05)
 Oh! And it was £225... Google is your friend.
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag angard008 (Mar 3, 2011 at 20:46)
 Mine worked straight out the box too.. SWEET!! Cant use it until my frame shows up next week..2011 Tracer 2... Going to be SICK!!
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag seamus (Feb 22, 2011 at 9:04)
 I have my Reverb about 7 weeks and I love it, but I had to bleed my one out of the box, its easy and takes less than 5 minutes.
[Reply]
  • + 2
flag CougarBait (Feb 22, 2011 at 8:20)
 Awesome. Mine was fine straight out of the box, but I've read of others having problems. Thanks, Pinkbike!
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag joedaho (Feb 22, 2011 at 1:02)
 I'm also thinking that a gravity dropper service is done in less time than it takes to watch this vid....
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag jasterixstrange (Feb 22, 2011 at 0:33)
 i hear that these £300 seat posts are shipping without instructions advising you to bleed them first so kudos for this
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag LukeCowley77 (Feb 22, 2011 at 14:18)
 didn't even know there were seat posts you could bleed! shows how small my knowledge is on the subject
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag milfhunter (Sep 12, 2012 at 5:31)
 I doubt Fisher Outdoor Liesure will provide the same level of service. Hello? Anyone there? Nope...
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag curler (Feb 23, 2011 at 9:44)
 Does the Reverb ship with the bleed kit?
  • + 2
flag thebigschott (Feb 23, 2011 at 10:05)
 Mine just showed up yesterday and came with a bleed kit, small parts, and 4oz of 2.5 wt suspension fluid. It feels great out of the box but I need to cut the hose down a bit to take some slack out of the system.
  • + 3
flag thebigschott (Feb 23, 2011 at 10:50)
 btw... I started digging into my Reverb to shorten the hose and realized I couldn't re-use the barbs. I called up Sram and talked to Jeff and he's sending me a whole new service kit at no charge. Sram's customer service is bar-none! Moments like this reminds me of why I get most of my equipment from them! Also, I have had adjustable seatposts from Crankbros and Gravity Dropper. Out of the box this one feels the best!
[Reply]

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