Stan's NoTubes announced a number of weeks ago that the company had founded "Stan's Racing Development division," and along with it came two quarts of SRD's first official product: "Race Sealant." The formula had been used in various forms for years, and was reportedly shipped to race teams in black, unmarked containers. Race Sealant is based upon the exact same latex fluid as the original, but it uses a mixture of large and small irregular-shaped particles that interlock more quickly and can seal fairly large punctures instantaneously. Information on the quart sized container warns that the Race Sealant must be poured into the tire directly. It cannot be injected through the valve stem and it will clog just about everything. (So, keep your valve core at 90-degrees when inflating or deflating air pressure). The official word is that Race Sealant will remain liquid as long as the original, both in the can and in the tire, and that it will function at temperatures as low as - 30 degrees F (- 34 degrees C). MSRP for a quart bottle is $39.00 USD.
Stan's NoTubesTrail Test
After watching a local sales rep' run a ball point pen into an inflated tire a few times, I was suitably impressed that Race Sealant could patch a larger sized hole than your typical nail or cactus thorn. What impressed me more, however, was that the tire was still at a rideable pressure after two stabs with a Bic pen. At home, I mounted a pair of brand new Maxxis High Rollers, poured in 2.5 ounces into each 2.3-inch tire. (That is over one ounce less than Stan's recommended dose, but I was told by a pro race mechanic that they were using half as much of the Race Sealant and getting better results when compared with the original.) The choice of tire was because the rough bead design of the Maxxis tire makes it one of the more troublesome to mount up tubeless. Aaaaand, the High Roller was still troublesome - but less so than I can remember, and when it did pop into place, there was no bubbling at the bead interfaces, no weepy pinholes in the carcass, just a well mounted tire, ready to rock and roll.
I inflated the tires to 30 psi, using my Schwalbe digital gauge, and proceeded to punch some holes with a 16-penny nail (about 3mm diameter) - four in each wheel. After each puncture, I spun the wheel a few revolutions, but one time around was all the tire needed to seal. Afterwards, I measured the pressure and it was very close to 29 psi on both tires. I'll call that a win for normal puncture sealing. Next, I lowered the tire pressure to 20 psi (front) and 22 psi (rear) and pounded some speed runs down the rock gardens on my favorite test loop, hoping to do some sidewall damage. I managed to find two places where the sealant wept through the tire's sidewall, but there was no appreciable drop in tire pressure. The tires remained flat free ever since and typically stayed within two psi of their original inflation pressures for a number of days in storage. A check of the fluid inside the tires revealed that the sealant is behaving like the original and was not coagulating prematurely.
Pinkbike's Take: | Forty bucks for a quart of tubeless sealant is sure to raise some hackles, but for racers, the price of a flat, or the time penalty for nursing a soft tire home is far greater than paying an extra $15.00 for the quicker sealing response that Stan's Race Sealant offers. I'd recommend it for anyone who competes on tubeless tires. The Race formula may be a lighter-weight option for plus, or fat-bike tires and it's strongly suggested if you are "That Guy" - Mister Stylish SoHandsome, the rider who carries nothing but good looks to repair or inflate a flat. - RC |
But we can't keep air INSIDE of a damn bicycle tire?
Well then you get re-qualified
The last set or so I used it on, I used 4oz in each tire(29" Schwalbe HDs, 2.35" on Fatties= 2.5" wide), and I wanna say 3 or 4 weeks later when I went to install 'mud' tires(after a couple days of rain, it was looking like El Nino was here, but in reality he was just jerking my chain) my 4oz had been reduced to literally ZERO.
Still, I'm gonna keep using it, although I'm thinking it's pretty spendy as it is, so $40/qt is more than I wanna spend.
Maybe I'll just pick up a tube of that dry glitter-looking crap auto parts stores sell as radiator sealant, and mix some in with my 'cheap' Stan's, and see what happens. Although I had a particularly nasty thorn punch,I dunno...maybe an 1/8" hole in my tire, and while I lost 20psi, and had to spin the tire several times to get it to seal, in the end it DID seal that sized hole.
I think you mean "Van Allen" when referring to those radiation belts surrounding the Earth, not "Van Halen" who is my favorite rock band!
forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/best-tubeless-brew-406115.html
Sorry I couldn't make you laugh. Your turn, please make it funny ☺
No disrespect to RC but why not review it the standard recommended way and then start pushing the limits.
I'm down to give another brand a chance next time. May give Orange Seal a try.
I waited for years to get a puncture too just so I could see how effective Stan's was, so it was all a bit of a let down(no pun intended)!
that's good to know because Stans can't seem to seal Conti Trail king 2.2 in the lighter version (now called Race Sport overseas) - I've had to paint the sidewalls 3 layers of Stans+Dry before mounting!. Even the heavier Protection version will seal when new, but start leaking sidewalls or wet spots in a couple months. Something about Stans eating the walls away on the Conti (which used to last forever otherwise). Also dries up too quickly for me (hot garage) and separates into funny clear liquid on the DH bike that sits around for 6+ months off season.
-brotha
Pump it up, now pump it!
While your feet are stomping
And the trail is pumping
Look ahead the crowd is jumping!
C&C tubeless factory.
This will probably go down like a tyre with nonduro stans sealant
I use Orange Seal sealant and it works great and it's light, seals up 1/4" tears and seals up quickly and lasts almost 2 months longer than Stan's.
You mess up with tubeless, 9/10 you are fine and continue to ride. I would never go back to tubes even on the DH bike. Nothing upsets me more than ending a ride after a long hard effort because of a stupid pinch flat or thorn.
However I do want to try the Orange seal stuff that was talked about a few weeks back. Think it is the same idea with different size particles.
Bummer
OEM tires ( the ones that come with brand new bikes ) , Usually manufacturers will supply brand new bikes with base model tires, so you'll get a Shwalbe tire with an unusually light sidewall.
OR
Tires that predate the popularity of tubeless ready sidewalls and butyl casings.
**Try this craziness: Take the tires off and let them sit in the sun or a warm dry room so that the sealant has time to properly dry and cure to the inside of the tire. This should seal the sidewall and the leaking would stop. But i wouldnt worry about the leaking if the tire are for the most part holding air. eventually the sealant should cure and the tires will no longer sweat. Good luck!
Are you serious?
Did you have a good ride today?