Supernatural Quebec - Part Deux

The Boréal doesn’t disappoint. Over the course of the morning Tommy and Mathieu described the freeride trail at length and as we hike-a-bike up I recognise the features they've described. The trail is new, fresh cut, and promises a type of riding we had yet to see in the Valley with its large jumps and sculpted berms.


Before long we top out and break to take in the beauty of sun setting over the Quebec mountains. But not too long as Knight has already eyed the first jump. Tommy and I head out first and pull up under the booter, straining to hear any sign of Knight’s rapid approach.


Knight suddenly appears airborne and whipped-out. Tommy hoots! The dirt is soft and Knight leaves dents where he touches down. Brown pow shreds in his wake and he rounds a berm that’s so new I can feel it shake like Jello fresh out of a mold under my feet.




High fives are dealt at the bottom. Boréale is indeed fit for a bike park!

---

Day two finds Knight and I waking up at an ungodly hour. In the afterglow of the previous day's ride we had imbibed on numerous Quebec bières and, in a fit of irrational exuberance, had decided we'd get up before dawn to clock a few more miles before Knight’s departure.

By dawn we’re cruising down Saint-Raymond’s western style Main Street of conjoined victorian buildings. Still half asleep we head to the outskirts of town and park at a trailhead of the “Swiss Man’s” section of the Saint-Raymond network.




The Swiss man is just that, a Swiss expat and proprietor of a large dairy farm at the foot of a hill (referred to as the Swiss Man’s Mountain) beyond the barn and fence line. Apparently he was an ally to the local riders. His “mountain” now sported a trail network fit for a mini downhill park.



Up and down we go, climbing, summiting, yawning, hammering down hill, and sweating out yesterday’s improprieties.

---

Knight heads home to Vermont, and I meet Mathieu, Tommy and Gilles for a solid breakfast and the Roquemont. Bacon and eggs devoured, I’m feeling better now. Today we’ll be heading out the back door of the hotel and directly onto the network that flanks town to the east.

With full bellies we climb up and out of the village. In contrast to yesterday‘s ride the intersections are more frequent and the trails appear well ridden. Occasionally we pop out in the backyards of various business and homes.



Within twenty minutes we top out at a quaint chapel overlooking the quintessential Quebec countryside. Ville de Saint-Raymond stretches out before us with church steeples rising above the grid houses. In the distance miles of farm fields are punctuated by steeples and farm silos flagging the horizon. After admiring the view I remember that what goes up must come down.


On our descent back to town we ride La Jolie Jaelle; Knight Ide’s signature trail is packed with berms, tables, whoops and step-downs upon which Tommy and I test our metal in tandem.


On my second run down I can’t help but add to the chorus of cheers. La Jolie Jaelle proves a perfect finale for our tour of the Vallée Bras-du-Nord.

---

No trip to VBN is complete without a stop in Quebec City. Steeped in history, Old Quebec city is the last remaining walled city in North America. Once fortified from invaders, the city now prides itself on hospitality.



Attractions abound and one can easily spend a couple days walking the fort walls and cobblestone corridors within. Interested in taking the wifey (or hubby) on a romantic bike-centric vacation? This is your ticket!

WHEN IN QUEBEC...

BEER: Be sure to check out the some local microbrews (Microbrasserie) from the Roquemont, Archibald, Le Trou Du Diable, and Dunham breweries. Dunham brews Leo’s Early Breakfast IPA; it was our favorite QC brew by far!

Food: For stellar cheap eats in Quebec City head over to Le Chic Shack, a trendy gourmet burger bar. Get any burger and the chocolate float with Archibald Brewery’s Stout in it. So good! For a more authentic taste of local cuisine hit up Aux Anciens Canadiens, an upscale and rather spendy restaurant located in the oldest remaining building in town. Their specialty is traditional QC cuisine. Caribou anyone? Yum! Get the maple pie for dessert!



When staying in QC, I recommend any number of the smaller bed and breakfasts that are nested in the old part of town. If a Hotel is more your speed then the Hotel Clarendon is located in a central location and boasts a well preserved historic vibe and comfy little rooms with nice views of the city. If you are feeling rich and really want to knock your spouse’s socks off stay at the Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac. This is where James Bond, Anthony Bordain and Richard Branson would stay! At the very least I recommend visiting the Frontenac and enjoying the most expensive cocktail you can afford in the front bar overlooking the Saint Lawrence River. 18 year Oban? Don’t mind if I do.

WHEN IN SAINT-RAYMOND...

Vallée Bras-du-Nord has numerous accommodations that they manage including camping, cabins, and yurts. If you are looking for something rustic yet upscale we recommend renting a cabin at Au Chalet en Bois Rond just outside of town. The large chalets include all the modern amenities one could ask for and can sleep multiple couples. Plus some have hot tubs! Bois Rond is Located in a peaceful wooded area on a manmade lake and serviced by a small general store at the entrance to the private grounds.


There are good options for food in Saint-Raymond. The Roquemont makes an awesome breakfast. Too early for a beer? Off main street there are a number of options. Our absolute favorite was Sushi M et Cie, though far from the ocean, they served up one of the best platters of mouth sized morsels we have ever had! Definitely try the poutine roll. Speaking of which, eat poutine any opportunity you have when in Quebec!

Other things to do and see:

Do stop by the local cheese factory Alexis de Portneuf. Buy one of everything! The softer and smellier the cheese the better it tastes on a baguette.

Do spend a day on foot in the Shannahan and hike out to Delaney Falls! Standing under the hundred foot cascade was a highlight of my trip.

Do say hello to everyone at Vallée Bras-du-Nord for me. Give them hugs. And high fives.

For more from me and our VT crew visit Mountain Bike Vermont / @mtbvt

Posted In:
Stories Reader Stories