Today's Tech Tuesday takes a closer look at Cane Creek's AngleSet and the steps needed to correctly perform the installation. Inside you'll find a photo how-to, as well as audio from Cane Creek's own Josh Coaplen to guide you through the process.
The Cane Creek Angleset is a relatively new product, and has been a godsend for the serious riding community. No longer are riders stuck with a bike designer's idea of "the perfect geometry", or with adjustments to change multiple things at once. The CC Angleset allows a rider to adjust their head angle to suit their own riding style, without changing BB height or any other important geometry areas. As it's a bit different to a normal headset, it can be slightly tricky to install. Josh Coaplen shares the installation know-how in the audio clip below. Listen, learn, install.
After installing the headset cups in the correct orientation, apply a thin layer of thick grease in the cups where the gimble will sit. This allows the gold colored gimble to articulate properly within the headset cup. Do this to both the upper...
... and lower cups.
Install the crown race onto the fork's crown (making sure that it is fully seated) and then place the bearing and lower gimble on top. Once again, make sure that the bearing is fully seated onto the crown race.
The next step is to completely put together the entire upper assembly. This includes the upper gold gimble, bearing, compression ring, and headset top cover.
Slide the fork's steerer tube into the head tube, then slide the upper headset assembly onto the steerer tube. Do not press things together yet.
Now you can seat the entire upper headset assembly into the cup, and then, and only then, slide the lower crown up and seat the lower gimble.
Make sure to keep the upper part's snug while you slide everything together, keeping anything from shifting. A friend may be helpful if you have a tight top crown.
Slide the crown down, install your stem and any headset spacers that your bike uses, and snug the headset up to take any slack out of the system. You may be required to tighten the headset slightly more than usual to fully seat the gimbles into the headset cups. Once those are fully seated check the system for any play or to be sure that it isn't too tight. Finish up by tightening your stem and crown bolts, double checking to be certain that everything is torqued to the correct amount before hitting the trails.
• Something that caught me during install was that the different cups have different effective stack heights: 0 Degree, .5 and 1 degree and 1.5 degree have the gimble sit at different depths, meaning that the stack height is slightly different. This can cause a steerer tube to be too short if it was cut precisely, or can cause your top cap to bottom out on the steer tube without really noticing it, thus preventing you from fully tightening your headset if you don't add a thin headset spacer.
• Also note that the gimbles will lock into the cups after a little bit of tightening and can be a tad tricky to get out. Use a flat bladed screwdriver and gently pop it out.
• The bearings are beveled and meant to go in one way. They do fit the other way, but simply won't tighten down - make sure you have the bearings in there the correct way!
Now consider the 2nd situation: you come to the first doc and he tells you: you have these and these options, I know this and this guy, they can do this and this thing better than me but I'm not sure if they are that good in other things. You have to take a decision - it's your knee! So a chance that you might end up as screwed up as in first situation are high - your knee is really bad after all. The difference is, it is you blaming yourself for a long time (probably for the rest of your life whenever it hurts or limits something you want to do, like biking?) and thinking what could you have done better. Questions about options you were never able to check. At the end of the day, you couldn't do anything, your knee would never be back to normal, it was pure chance whether your knee ended up better or worse. And if it is someone elses fault, it's way easier to get on with it.
As an ultimate example why it is not good to have an opportunity to adjust bikes geo, and trust designers, please see this:
www.pinkbike.com/photo/6018569
On the other hand, I think to some degree people are on this quest to rake out the front of the bike beyond what might be for the best. There is something to be said for the engineers and racers and designers that put alot of R&D into these designs. Take the Demo featured here. These bikes are dialed, Specialzed is one of those brands that really knows what they are doing and there is alot of things that go into choosing the angles that you may not fully understand. A simple example would be the fact that these published angles are static. As the bike sits, things change once underway- sag, for example affects your head angle once you start down the mountain. All that aside- the Demo is 64 degrees in its "low setting" .........you put of these in and take it out to 62.5? Thats really slack, I would think it would make the bike completely lethargic. Now, keep in mind, ive not ridden a Demo at all, and I have not tried a angleset, this is all purely thought aloud for discussion, but the point Im making is to be careful with these things especially if you are not the most experianced of riders. Slacker isnt always better.
Yesterday I had a huge internal struggle whether to buy new shifters or not. My shifters are 2000 XTRs, lightweight, reliable, they are perfectly fine after 10 years! Yet I was sitting in front of the screen with CRC on, and looking at new XTs and XTRs just because these old XTRs of mine don't fit on my bars that well, coming into conflict with the brake lever. Should I go for SRAM the voice said...
I mean there's so many people I know saying: I got the get rid of this XTR, Deemax wheels because I want something better - Am I the only one to whom it sounds ridiculous?!
Your argument about it being an unnecessary expense is invalid, because it allows you to improve the geo of whatever bike you currently have so that you dont have to shell out $2000+ for a new frame.
SuperShoreMedia (20 hours ago)
Pretty pointless tech tuesday in my opinion. I mean most of us don't have a headset press. And if I had to take it to the shop anyway to get the cups pressed in, then I would just let the shop install the whole thing.....
Show- 5 z-man (20 hours ago) (Below Threshold) show comment
There's ways to do it with no press. you just have to be delicate with a hammer.
and i was like OMFG
Antron, point I was making with that Nicolai: I don't know if you noticed the head angle on this thing. Seems like someone wanted to maximize the rear travel, and became more than fine with the fact that he got BB height of Karpiel Apocalypse and head angle of an old school XC bike.
IS finding the centerline of the headtube that difficult for you? Do you need glasses?
the gimbles take care of any bit f mis-alignment
rock on..
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Scott has or had a headtube shim that could be turned around to change the head angle. Cane Creek's angleset just makes that possible for more bikes.
Con's:
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Unnecessary (as far as I know, people always brag about gadgets and possibilities, while they can't ride properly)
Say you slacken the HA by 1.5 (ie by putting in the -1.5 cup). Am I right in thinking that this cup will make the HA either 1.5 degrees slacker (as it is already) and if rotated 180 degrees it would make the HA 1.5 steeper?
And if you decided you want to change to only 1 degree slacker, you would have to take the headset apart and replace the cups (top, bottom or both?) from the 1.5 cups to the 1 cups, and then re-install the whole thing?
If that is the case, how easy do the cups go in and come out? Because I have seen some headsets where the cups require quite a bit of persuasion to come out...
Cheers.
Thank you so much for that hint. It just took me hours to figure out why I couldn't tighten down my angle set right...
I have a 2010 Giant Glory M. I will now change the h/a to 64 degrees. What is your wheelbase now ?. Can this make a problem for the frame (crack)?.
Thank you in advance
dirt.mpora.com/news/dirt-exclusive-1-18-angleset-campaign.html
I think the author was referring to two other methods of changing your fork angle : sliding the crowns up or down the stanchions of a dual crown fork or; changing the mounting of the shock (for those frames where that is possible).
f*cking gumby
Maybe if I had a SC Heckler and was running it at 150mm travel, for day to day fairly aggressive riding with a 69 degree head tube angle and I wanted to take it to the Alps or whistler or something then slackening it off to 68 to 67.5 degrees might make sense.
With the Angleset, I can take the 63 degree head angle and 13.5" BB as is....OR....I can set it ONE degree off, making the BB 13.9 and head angle 64 degrees if I find I don't like the new angles in the tight techy woods around here.
If I go to Snowshoe, Diablo, Plattekill, I can switch back to 63. Just because this headset doesn't apply to your situation, doesn't mean it isn't VERY useful to others like myself.