Fox Racing Shox may have released their new RC4 rear shock, but the DHX 5.0 has been around long enough that it will continue to be one of the most common shocks that you'll see up on the hill. For that reason, today's
Tech Tuesday takes a closer look at the 5.0's adjustments and how each one will affect your bike's performance. Video inside!
Read on,Fox's DHX 5.0 is one of the most widely used shocks and can be found on many different makes and models of bikes. Although this versatile shock features a number of adjustments that let you tune its performance, it's easy to be either overwhelmed by the number of dials or simply be too intimidated to start making changes. That is a shame because spending a bit of time to dial the ride in to your liking is well worth it, especially considering the wide range of adjustments available. You may be just fine with the settings that your bike rolled out of the shop with, but you should know that there is a good chance that it can get even better. Watch the video below and start experimenting!
Tools needed: Shock pump,
4 mm allen keyWatch the video to learn more about the Fox DHX 5.0
Now that you know how each dial will effect how your bike rides, grab the tools that you need and hit the dirt. To aid in setup I recommend finding a short section of trail representative of the type of terrain that you spend most of your time on. Start by mostly dialing out an adjustment and riding the section, then dial it mostly in and have another go. Doing this will give you a clear understanding of how each adjustment changes your bike, as well as the changes you have to make in your riding style to compensate. You may discover that even though you've always been happy with very little rebound damping, you have more control and confidence with a slower setup. I like to have a small notepad with me and make notes of the changes that I make. Not only can this be helpful as a guide when you get on a different bike, but you'll also know where to put the dials back to if you end up with a setup that you don't like.
Did you find this Tech Tuesday helpful? Have some of your own hints that you'd like to share? Put them down below!
Past Tech Tuesdays:
Technical Tuesday #1 - How to change a tube. Technical Tuesday #2 - How to set up your SRAM rear derailleur Technical Tuesday #3 - How to remove and install pedals Technical Tuesday #4 - How To Bleed Your Avid Elixir Brakes Technical Tuesday #5 - How To Check And Adjust Your Headset Technical Tuesday #6 - How To Fix A Broken Chain Technical Tuesday #7 - Tubeless Conversion Technical Tuesday #8 - Chain Wear Technical Tuesday #9 - SRAM Shift Cable Replacement Technical Tuesday #10 - Removing And Installing a HeadsetTechnical Tuesday #11 - Chain Lube ExplainedTechnical Tuesday #12 - RockShox Totem and Lyric Mission Control Damper ModTechnical Tuesday #13 - Shimano XT Crank and Bottom Bracket Installation Technical Tuesday #14 - Straightening Your Derailleur HangerTechnical Tuesday #15 - Setting Up Your Front DerailleurTechnical Tuesday #16 - Setting Up Your CockpitTechnical Tuesday #17 - Suspension BasicsHave you found this tutorial helpful? Share any of your hints or tips below!Visit
Parktool.com to see their entire lineup of tools and lubes.
High speed controls impacts encountered at high speeds such as rocks, deep brake bumps, or landing a large jump/drop. Generally the faster you ride the harder you want to run your high speed compression. A way to figure this out is to start with no High speed compression and ride a section of trail similar to what you normally ride, then add a click and try again. Continue adding one click of compression at a time until you stop bottoming out or it gets to rough. Then you'll have an idea of were to set it, usually one or two clicks below that point.
Other than that the adjustments are basically the same as a DHX. This is how I adjust the RC4 if you dont agree dont talk crap just add your own opinions.
great vid.. makes me wanna ride a dually
Then you pump it up to the maximum pressure....
Then you screw in the bottom out adjuster, making the chamber smaller (but still with the same amount of air in it).
Then you will be increasing the pressure, possibly beyond what the shock is capable of.
I hope that makes sense.
The greater the air pressure, the more force acting on the oil and the harder it is for the the piston in the boost valve to move when loaded. This will make for what might feel stiffer (harsher) in a car park test.
The thing with the Dhx, is that no setting is independent of the others.
This way, there is no psychological effect on feeling something because the rider knows that, say, rebound damping is slower. The rider only rides and gives the mechanic feedback. If the rider says "I'm getting bucked". I then dial in heaps of rebound. Now the rider says "well the rebound is definitely slower, but now it seems to be packing down" so I then go back but half-way between the previous setting. I go over and under until I narrow in on the perfect setting. I keep the notes and the rider just keeps riding and telling me what feels different.
And every now and then you don't change anything and see if the rider describes changes that were never there.
What about filling Nitrogen instead of filling air in the Piggi, those it really make any difference, does it make the shock working better?
Tahnks
can annyone help me out here ?