We get asked about low- and high-speed damping all the time, but the answers are never quite as simple as we'd like them to be. So, with that in mind, we decided to lay out the concepts and theory behind both types of damping, and explain the interactions between the two. This video is the first part, while next week's episode will cover more about the effects of adjusting each in the real world, as well as some practical setup ideas based on the theory that we're explaining here.
When we get into this level of detail, there are a few things to note:
• We've simplified complex concepts for the sake of clear and concise explanation. Every suspension product is different, so we try to make out explanations as generally representative as possible, but there are always exceptions.
• There are, of course, different tuning philosophies when it comes to what works best. We're presenting that functional status quo here, not commenting on what's better or worse.
• Virtually every type of damper configuration out there works well, at least for a certain application. You may have a configuration that works very well for what you want it to do, or you may not.
• Setup is a personal thing. There is no such thing as a ''correct'' setup, but there is a setup that works for you. Different people will notice and prioritize different characteristics.
MENTIONS: @VorsprungSuspension
What would be very helpful would be for you to recommend a set-up procedure. For example, given the interplay / effect of HSC on LCS - would you recommend setting HSC with zero LSC and then progressively increasing LSC untill the right feel is achieved OR vice versa? Keep these coming please. I've been tuning bikes for years but your video's only prove it's never too late to keep learning!
2HSC although might go higher if the graphs show that doing so helps you get more out of the low speed
3HSR
only 1 LSC
17LSR.
Very little low speed rebound for me as I pedal well (ex roadie for over 30 years) so don't bob much anyway and wanted super sensitive small bump compliance. If I do feel the need to pedal for long distances uphill and want it more efficient I simply use the climb switch but otherwise prefer the suspension to work well and track the ground
All feels good now to me, these higher end shocks are awesome for adjustability
thanks
First gen w/BV: the pressure affects the compression damping directly, in a position sensitive manner. That means it has the most effect at the end of the stroke. It also has some effect on the spring rate throughout the stroke; you'd run ~50lbs/in lighter on that shock than a shock with a very small shaft or very low gas charge pressure (eg CCDB).
2nd gen w/o BV: the pressure only affects the spring rate, and has the largest effect (which is still fairly small) at the end of the stroke. Long story but basically Fox got rid of the position sensitive aspect of the shock to make the damping entirely speed sensitive without having to introduce any parts they didn't already make.
@VorsprungSuspension - Ever dealt with the DVO Diamond?
I'm wondering how the OTT travel at the beginning of the stroke is affected by the HSC/LSC? (same as the rest of the travel, or more independent)
I love the buttery feeling of the the OTT spring, but i'm more a fan of firmer suspension setups, so it sorta conflicts as i feel i'm losing midstroke support. If i increase HSC i might gain some support, but will it have an adverse affect on the OTT travel as well? Any thoughts...?
After thinking on it some more, i realized the compression knobs must affect the entire stroke similarly since it actually sits on a separate fork leg from the springs.
If i understood your video correctly, increasing HSC does not change the "spring rate" (i.e - slope) on high speed bumps. So, assuming i'm riding aggressive rocky trails, and most of my bumps are in high speed curve zone and in the middle of my travel (past the OTT), my ways to increase midstoke support are:
a) reduce spring volume (spacers, oil etc...)
b) add more air for a firmer ride
@oldschool43 - i actually try to leave the LSC alone. I mostly use it as "climb" switch to reduce some bobbing on climbs (although even when fully closed it's not nearly as "efficient" as other forks i've used). I share your feeling about midstroke support. Initially i used very little OTT, simply cuz i like my suspension springy and hop-friendly. But after adding more and more OTT, its hard to go back. the small bump sensitivity is addictive (and also adds about 200 grams to your fork, so you might as well use it
From what you've described, I think reducing spring volume will do the opposite of what you are looking to do. It makes the fork ramp up harder - from what you have described though it sounds like you're after more support in the middle of the stroke. Adding air, increasing OTT and increasing volume will firm up the middle of the travel without affecting too much else.
The difficulty here however is being sure that what you're looking to improve actually is in the middle of the stroke, and that your perceptions on that are correct - it's pretty common to find that what a rider thought was happening a particular region of the travel was actually happening elsewhere. For example, a perception of a lack of mid stroke support (or sense of midstroke harshness) is sometimes actually happening 70-80% of the way through the travel, which is where ending stroke ramp up has a big effect, so you'll
Straight up I'd say your best bet is to get in contact with Bryson Martin and ask for his advice. That's the brilliant thing about DVO is they are more than willing to give you top quality one to one advice on setting up your suspension.
But after riding Emeralds for over a year now, if the diamonds are anything like the emeralds that is, then I will admit they are a bitch to setup; mostly due to the vast amount of clicks on every setting. but that isn't necessarily a bad thing.
It's not a quick process. I went back and tuned the Emerald again the other month, and I ended up spending over 6 hours tuning it in, and I hadn't even got to the LSC by the end of the day! But once you get it dialled, it is so worth it.
Just find a nice section of trail that has a bit of everything (roots, rocks, drops, berms etc.) and play around with the fork, tuning one thing at a time. Get to know the fork and how everything works.
To help with tuning go from one extreme to the other. So, for example, turn the rebound fully clockwise and ride the section of track. Then ride the section of track but with the rebound fully anti-clockwise. After that you can begin to tune in 2 clicks or so at a time and find the sweet spot.
DVO have a YouTube channel, with vids talking you through setting up your diamond, emerald etc. They are very helpful.
The versatility of the tuning on this fork is has its pros and cons. It's very not fool proof, and requires experienced riders to get the max out of it (as opposed to a "CTD" approach which any idiot can figure out).
I actually do the same approach as you described - going to the extremes to get a good sense of the affect and range. Still, with so many factors affecting compression (HSC, LSC, OTT, air pressure) its hard to place a finger on it. Not to mention that a certain setup might feel awesome in fast chatter trails and bad on slow technical stuff. It's difficult to find "golden rules" with so much dials.
I set the rebound first on every fork so I went with the base tune and set up the rebound first. So my first ride on it, I rode a short, rocky, rooted, 1 mile loop with some fast descents and stopped at the truck to make adjustments each lap, adding and subtracting. I had it setup to my liking, except for the mid stroke thing. I thought it needed volume, so I pulled the air valve out and inserted a syringe with fluid. Did a lap, added more, and so on. It changed it some, it still wasn't perfect, but plenty rideable. Then I went to a trail with jumps, that's where the mid stroke issue reared it's ugly head. I turned up the HSC a bit and the LSC and I was still bottoming the fork on the face of the jumps hard. I could feel the compression working, but that was the only thing working. Once it hit so hard the tire collapsed (35psi) and it sent me over for a visit with a tree. With the jumping setup, set to 20% sag and on a regular trail, way too firm. Started over on the settings and haven't strayed too much since.
I actually just got around to re-installing my 15' Fox 32 Factory Fit 4 on my other bike this weekend, after 3 months. I had it set it up rigid and kind of liked the challenge and after the rebuild, I didn't want to get my hands dirty.. Okay, was just being lazy.. So I have only ridden the DVO for 3 months. Anyway with the Fox, even in descend mode, or technically no compression damping, I still don't bottom harshly or have any volume added to it hitting the same jumps. I didn't even use full travel (had 10mm or so unused), also set to 20% sag but with 30psi in the tires. Currently, the Fox blows the DVO out of the water as far as the spring curve goes. I want to figure out that spring curve. Maybe I just need more oil (volume) in it..
Great video(s) though!
The Vivid have a single compression dial, I think LSC but I may be wrong, and it haven't a preloaded HSC valve but only shim stack right? In this case does the LSC setting affect HSC? And how? Thanks
Are there types of suspension where the high speed circuit can actually be altered?
Excellent work and huge thanks on the video, I love knowing more about how my kit works and this feels like having a personal tutor to teach me!
EDIT: I've just watched the DSC video below- so for CC and X2 dampers, the combination of the shim stack and adjustable rod valve/poppet allows you to alter the HSC damping curve? As I understand, the shim stack is used to control the compression curve, and the rod/poppet is used to control the 'transition threshold' from LSC to HSC?
@nehuen93 the beginning and ending stroke (LS and HS) rebound adjusters (which we'll get into more next week) don't actually let you create quite the progressive curve @Kramz was describing.
I.e. on my RP24 fork for XC rides that wont hit too many high speed hits and is fairly smooth could go with the former but when trail riding and hitting drops and jumps should dial the spring rate up and reduce the LSC compression damping (No HSC) but then increase the rebound.
Never really understood that the HSC adjuster does not change the slope of the HSC portion of the damping curve. It changes the threshold pressure at which the HSC circuit begins to open. When damping oil pressure (x surface area) = preload force on poppet valve, the HSC circuit begins to open. The actual slope of the HSC portion of the curve is determined by the spring rate of the poppet valve spring (or shim stack combination when applicable).
Since the LSC adjustment seems to actually cause a phase shift of the HSC curve (as shown in the example), I assume that means the LSC circuit is always active, even when the HSC circuit is open and flowing oil? I.e. When HSC circuit is active, the compression curve is actually the resultant of both the low speed AND high speed circuits?
I now feel that I am much more capable of making logical damping adjustments to achieve my desired result.
There are cases where the HSC adjuster does affect the HS gradient too - any time there are two variable aperture circuits in parallel, this can happen. For example, any of the CCDB series compression circuits.
Also, I understand the HSC circuit to basically work as a blow-off valve under high damper forces, which would also affect pedaling under situations like sprinting out of the saddle. Are there any forks/shocks with pedaling platforms that restrict both HSC and LSC circuits?
In reference to DSC, vimeo.com/130459969
if a rider desire to have super fast rebound setup without getting top out rebound oscillation at sag point effect , would maxed out LSC basically minimise the oscillation?
HSR fast and LSR slow and keep LSC/HSC normal?