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fatcatdj
(Jul 22, 2008 at 22:11)
did u use 4130
Yesssirreee! I may play with fancier tubing at some point, but 4130 is working out pretty well for me so far.
It's not touching the ground - its a carpenters square that I used to prop the bike up. You can see the top of the square underneath the shock spring.
The wheelbase is long. I'd shorten it up a little bit next time, but I wanted stability for some extra-steep trails in the area (e.g. Eula trail). The extra stability is nice to have, but getting it around sharper corners takes more effort than with a shorter bike.
You could even make another swing arm for it so you switch them depending on the track. That would be sick!
It would just need some intelligent mucking about with the suspension
It would just need some intelligent mucking about with the suspension
lol i like how it says "then slapped some spare parts on" who has that many brand new spare parts?
but that is the best home made bike i have seen. props
but that is the best home made bike i have seen. props
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It gets close, but doesn't touch. I think at full compression it gets around 1/4" or so of the spring.
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Thats awesome.. I see that you wrote it doesnt touch the back shock. Are you sure it looks like it less then an inch from the shock?
If I pull the spring and compress the shock, the distance to the center of the shock from the bottom of the seat tube is about a 1/4" more or so than the radius of the spring. The shock doesn't really swing up much (which is where the concern would be)- it mostly moves in, towards the upper pivot. It does move a small amount up, but less than one would expect. Good question though!
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Awesome design creative use of the tubing- the few 4130 frames Ive built rode so smooth I love its dampening quality
It's funny how that is - It's almost intangible, but it really does feel good. I love my aluminum bikes (trance, Slayer, Transition), but this bike feels like it has some sort of musical quality - like it hums or something (not audibly).
Agreed, I've owned two 4130 steel bikes from SWD Racing (the Crazy 8 and the 6Gun) and there is nothing like the feel of steal on rough terrain. The first time I hopped on one I thought there was something terribly wrong with the frame, but I just wasn't used to the quiet / smoothness. Sometimes I miss my steal bikes...
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No, this picture isn't very good. I am using a carpenters square propped up directly behind the crank and pedal, and it is black, so there is a dark patch where it seems a pedal should be. The center of the crank is actually at about 14", which is not really all that low.
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uhhhhh more or less a few shop drawers full. and some on the ground. And a few things hanging on the walls.
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holy shit i just realized you made this bike. this thing is f*ckin sick! i thought it was some norco haha
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awesome build. did you get inspiration from swd racing? that pivot style is just like the swd racing crazy 8 downhill bike.
I have looked at the SWD frames - the implementation of the pivot appears to be similar, although I never really could see a good picture of how they are put together. There are really only a handful of simple ways to tackle a pivot in a steel frame. It's entirely possible that we did it in a similar way. Thanks for the compliment!
It's around 44 lbs as shown. The frame itself is around 11 lbs. That 888 is rediculously heavy, and the DB is a bit of an anchor as well. The frame can be lightened a bit - I plan on reducing the wall thickness on the swingarm, which I believe will be strong enough for DH use, but considerably lighter.
Curt and I are planning another HT now as well - most likely even shorter chainstays, disc mounts, and maybe a few other goodies.
how important is that last little inch of seat post tube? always seemed a bit unneeded, and looking at some pictures i saw the new driver 8 has the same piece.
Oh its SUPER important! Without it, the entire bike collapses into itself, causing a giant rift in the space time continuum. Basically the whole universe is destroyed without it.
No, there are a couple of reasons I did it that way:
1) overall symmetry - I thought it looked better with the amount above and the amount below the seat mast tubes roughly even
2) Since I bored out the seat tube to accommodate that seatpost size, there is a lip at the bottom of the seat tube, so the seat post can't be pushed down past the end of the seat tube. That keeps me from accidentally dropping the post into territory where it might interfere with the shock.
No, there are a couple of reasons I did it that way:
1) overall symmetry - I thought it looked better with the amount above and the amount below the seat mast tubes roughly even
2) Since I bored out the seat tube to accommodate that seatpost size, there is a lip at the bottom of the seat tube, so the seat post can't be pushed down past the end of the seat tube. That keeps me from accidentally dropping the post into territory where it might interfere with the shock.
To accommodate 6" of travel on a BB pivot you'd have to have very long chainstays and that is not really trick-friendly. Plus why would you ride a 6" single speedbike? you'd have to push the bike up on the slightest uphills.
Sir - you're THE MAN ! the way it looks plus the fact that you made it yourself equals smoky result. I honestly admire. RESPECT .
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Eugene, Oregon, United States
5903 views | 77 comments | 231 faves
Date: 2008-07-22
Trail: Side yard
Riders: Mr. Invisible
Description: A frame I built, then slapped some spare parts on.
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