Aside from it being very similar to another POD from December, I'm glad this image was highlighted. It's an excellent photo. Great composition, strobe work, creativity, feature, riding... What else can you ask for? Nice job.
Low shutter speeds and a rear curtain sync flash(es) the rear synced flash freezes whatever is in the flashes coverage and makes it sharp and crisp but the background blurred.
Yeah, but then wouldn't you need to have a really small aperture and low ISO so that the stuff that is being lit up won't get blurred when it's not illuminated by the flash?
Being that this shot is in the forest with low light, I would initially set up with ISO 800, 1/30-1/60 sec shutter, at f/4. When you use a rear curtain sync the shutter opens, and as you pan with the rider keeping your focus point as accurate and steady as possible, the flash fires right before the shutter closes causing whatever is illuminated by the flash to be sharp and not blurred. If you look close at the trailing edge of the rider, you will notice a slight amount of blur which is caused by the long exposure and then the flash(es). go off at the last possible moment to freeze the action and give you a crisp subject. The motion blur gives the shot the element of speed.
Here are some shots I got at a DH race this summer using this technique.
front or rear curtain won't really make much of a difference if you're panning. The rider should be staying in the same spot in the shot, I find front curtain way easier as it freezes the rider as you click & not a split sec after. Rear curtain is only really noticeable if the photographer stays still while the rider goes past or jumps or whatever, coz then you see the trail of where he was & will be frozen at the end, where front curtain is the other way round with frozen rider & trail in front of him. So many ppl make their lives difficult by using rear curtain when you don't need it. The reason some areas are blurred & others sharp are because of shadows. Where sunlight hits things will blur because the light is constant & in shadows where no sun hits are only lit by the flash that is a super quick burst & when you move & the flash is done they're in shadow again & don't show movement.
lol had to have a double take on this shot. It's almost identical to the Gees Pod a while back, nearly the same rider position. Really nice photo, i love how it looks like the front tyre is about to explode out of the picture.
Pinkbike could i ask you to make an effort on pod, please when you see taht nearly the same photo as been a pod and pom. Be more creative, show us new things http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/5980969/
@ eric thanks for your words and explaining about rear or front curtain. you're right, it doesn't really mater when panning. I can't change it anyway with my current equipment of some old canon 430ez flashes.
@ tom-mot and loulou although I'm obviously quite happy about getting another pod, I do absolutely understand you that it's not very thoughtful to take two very similar shots as pod within a month. I'm really sorry for that.
Combining Eric's and VP's statements meaning: Ambient light + Artificial light + forested high contrast dappling + dragging shutters = this shot. If you are a photographer (in training) and would like to know how step by step to achieve this shot on demand msg me, here's a few of my examples http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/3876069/, it's easier than you think.....
I just got like a ligit lesson in photography .. but the shasta guy isn't as good at sounding smart about it as the vpbikerdeefer guy. But really I have no idea what any of it means except for shutter, but I'm glad there are people out there that do.
I didn't realize that you could get that effect with two flashes, I suppose I thought that it would be too light (ambient) to get a crisp image on the faster flash. You COULD do it in Photoshop with a smudge or blur tool, but I don't think it would look quite the same.
This is stupid. I understand it is a good picture, but this user already got another POD just like this a week or two ago. Gee Atherton was the rider, and it was the EXACT same spot! It seems silly that they would do something like this.
Great shot with demonstrating great camera skills. However to me, the area around the rock looks like it has been a bit over sharpened in PP. Otherwise It's a worthy POD! Keep it up!
Camera set up was: ISO 200, F4, 1/100 sec, 17mm. One flash from the front left, the other one from back right behind the tree, don't know anymore what settings.
I spent some time tweaking the resizing/sharpening algorithm last week and it's actually pretty awesome. The problem in this image comes from the fact that it's fairly well sharpened to start with, and then it gets sharpened again when it's resized. To avoid this problem please upload images that are at least as big as the Pinkbike large size, 1024 pixels on the long side. Any resize of less than 5% doesn't get sharpened at all. Pinkbikes resizing and sharpening has had a lot of work put into by Radek and also myself, unfortunately it's impossible to adjust it for every possible image size. It's optimized for input of images 1600 or larger, although 1200 should also work well. Please don't oversharpen your images to start with.
Thanks for the information Ian. Meaning we get the best results (if not uploading directly in 800px) with at least 1200 (better 1600) pixels on the long side? Will test that on my next uploads...
yes, I'll do a tutorial post on image uploading and how to make them look the best in the next couple of weeks, there will also be a post about the improvements to the site in the next few days.
Basically there are 5 image sizes on Pinkbike 150, 250, 500, 800 and 1024. If the image is more than 5% larger than any of these sizes it dowsamples the image and applies sharpening to bring back sharpness. It does this really well, however if it is less than 5% larger it just downsamples for that size with no sharpening. It applies the same sharpening to each image based on the final size, so if you upload an image that is 1200 it applies the same sharpening to the 1024 image as it would if you uploaded a 1600 image. If the image is smaller than 1024 then that size is not created. The POD and blog photos use the 800 pixel version of the file.
so good to have someone like you in charge of this Ian! Looks Like I'm gonna have to post my images a bit larger. Think I'm gonna start resizing to 1024 & sharpen a tiny bit myself.
Thanks Eric, we're working hard to making every just that much better.
Resizing to 1024 and sharpening perfectly will give you an image at 1024 that should be exactly as you uploaded it. However it will resize the 1024 image to 800 and sharpen it maybe a bit more than you want, you'll have to try it and see what you think. 800 is the default size of the image on the site and the size of the news and POD images. Personally I tried 1200 and 1600 and they both look good at 800. The sharpening at 800 is optimized for an image downsized from 1600 pixels.
if you cross your eyes just a bit, it's perfectly focused and if you stare long enough an image of another bike pops out from that rock, all 3D like... what a great shot.