NRogers27

@Saidrick: $3500 bike is cheap?

Even though the idea might be a little half-baked, we should crust Yoann. Also, if you gluten of these on your rim you have a tubular.

I would also like to point out that you can go build a bike on Jenson right now that is near equivalent for the same price. In that case yes, buying the complete bike is undeniably a better deal. However, you must also ask yourself what you truly want from a bike. Will you swap out parts? Do you care about some things more than others? Anyhow, just advocating that this bike is by no means a steal at its list price. I still bet this bike kicks absolute behind. The inflated industry may make it seem like a deal, but you can still get more for less, brand new, right now.

Sadly I still blow the whistle of the bikes are too expensive train, but let us still consider that this bicycle is the following: 1. From one of the largest bike manufacturers which should yield a comparatively lower price 2. 150-140 travel which is medium in today's market 3. More than 32 pounds without pedals which is heavy for the price of 4. More than $3500 Yes, $3500 is cheap for a mountain bike today,and there's no doubt that this bike is a great performer, but I am asserting that $3500+ is no godsend for a bike with okay spec and the above traits. If I'm dishing out the big buck$ (BECAUSE THAT'S WHAT 3.5K IS) I better have some hot stuff.

All bikes are too expensive. Doesn't make it wrong to complain about this one being slightly less expensive than the other ones.

$500

@skelldify: Just saying that mine are. I have rovals and they're sweet. I don't think I would race xc with this wheelset. I do however think I would be way more confident using the guide and gouge method with these carbon babies. They look thiccccccc.

Just want to throw something out there that goes along with the original comment which has little to do with the article. You can ride just about any rim to the breaking point. Nobody should expect to be able to ride at full speed over a bunch of sharp rocks with a flat tire and not destroy their wheels. I don't care what rims you are riding. I personally love my carbon wheels, as they offer greatly increased acceleration to my 29er due to the lower moment of inertia. I also choose my tires to be pretty burly, but I don't choose a DH casing. I run a butcher and a slaughter which I find to be reasonably light for the grip they offer. I ride my bike hard and use it for everything. If I'm racing a sharp-edged DH track or messing about in the street with curbs and large drops, I run 25+ psi. If I'm racing an XC course I run 25ish psi because they still have rocks and things. If I'm not racing and riding mellower trails, I like to run about 21psi. One time I ran 18 psi and was a little late bunny hopping over a square-edged rock. I chipped my front rim and put 3 holes in the tubeless tire. One of them had to be patched with a piece of a tube later (haha). Anyhow, I flatted at the top of a small ski slope so I just rode down the ski trail on the flat. Not a big deal. Didn't go out of true. Regardless, carbon rims offer a serious performance boost. Acceleration is improved with a lighter wheel especially on a bike with larger wheels. That is valuable to me because it makes my 29er quicker and livelier. Carbon rims for me have been much more durable than my aluminum ones ever were. The chip in my front rim has not affected the performance at all. Do I run high pressures and not use the "POINT AND PLOW" technique that requires less thought? Yes. I'm okay with that because at the end of the day I can ride my bike really fast on mellow non-DH trails, my wheels are always true, and I don't have dents in my rims. I bought my wheels used for cheap, and they are my bike's greatest asset.

User name suggests not an issue

So I can't get any version of this bike new for under $3000?