OneUp Components' Unleash the Shark 10-50T Sprocket

Mar 19, 2016 at 9:53
by OneUp Components  
OneUp Components Shark 10-50T: The widest range 11-speed 1X system ever. A climb crushing, descent hammering, 500% of range.

OneUp Shark is a set of modular upgrades for Shimano 11 speed mountain cassettes. Extend the range of your stock Shimano 11-42T cassette by almost a third, by adding a 50T sprocket and cage kit, a 10T cluster or both. Shark allows you to build the perfect cassette for the trails that you ride.

OneUp Components Shark 10-50T Sprocket

Shark 50T Sprocket and Cage Kit
Increase your chainring size by 4 teeth, and still gain range on both ends of your cassette. This means a higher top speed, a better average chainline (you now spend more time in the middle of your cassette) and legs for days on your next backcountry epic. The converted 11-50T cassette is the widest range cassette available that uses a standard freehub body.

Photo by AJ Barlas


Shark 50T Sprocket Tech Specs:

Cassette Progression: 11,13,15,18,21,24,28,32,37,42,50
Sprocket Material: 7075-T6 Aluminum (50T), Nickel plated hardened steel (18T). Maintains the 42T as the smallest aluminum sprocket, preventing premature drivetrain wear. No major drivetrain manufacturer goes smaller than a 40T cassette sprocket in aluminum.

OneUp Components Shark 10-50T Sprocket

Compatibility: XT M8000 11 speed 11-42T cassettes (For Shimano 11-40 use the OneUp 45T sprocket)
Freehub requirement: Standard freehub
Cassette range improvement: 19%
Colours: Grey or Green

Photo by AJ Barlas

Shark Cage Tech Specs:
Pulley Offset: 50% more than stock
Compatibility: Shimano Shadow+ 11spd rear derailleurs
Colours: Grey or Grey/Green

Shark 50T Sprocket and Cage Kit MSRP: $125 USD

OneUp Components Shark 10-50T Sprocket

Looking for even more top end? Add the Shark 10-12T Cluster and OneUp MiniDriver, to gain another 10% range on any 11-speed Shimano mountain cassette.

OneUp has collaborated with Hope Technology to develop a non-proprietary, freehub body standard that accepts a 10T sprocket. This shortened version of a standard freehub is available for Hope, Stan's and DT hubs with more coming soon. The MiniDriver open standard isn't shrouded in patents, making the production of inexpensive 10T equipped cassettes a future possibility.

OneUp Components Shark 10-50T Sprocket

10T Cluster Tech Specs:
Kit contains: 10-12 cluster, 14T and 15T
Cassette Progression:
- 10-12-14-17-19-21-24-27-31-35-40 (11-40 Shimano converted to 10-40)
- 10-12-14-17-19-21-24-28-32-37-42 (11-42 Shimano converted to 10-42)
- 10-12-15-18-21-24-27-31-25-40-45 (11-45 OneUp'd Shimano converted to 10-45)
- 10-12-15-18-21-24-28-32-37-42-50 (11-50 OneUp'd Shimano converted to 10-50)
Compatibility: Shimano 11-spd 11-40 and 11-42 cassettes and OneUp'd Shimano 11-45 and 11-50 cassettes
Freehub requirement: OneUp MiniDriver (or compatible)
Cassette range improvement: 10%
Colour: Nickel Plated cluster with Green Lockring
MSRP - $45

The 500% range of a Shark 10-50T cassette matches a typical 2x11 drivetrain, which should be enough to silence any remaining 2X hold outs.

OneUp Components Shark 10-50T Sprocket

MiniDriver Tech Specs:
Length: 4.5mm shorter than a standard freehub
Lockring Thread: M29
MSRP - $40 for OneUp DT star ratchet compatible MiniDriver

Ride faster, higher and longer with a wider range cassette.

Photo by AJ Barlas

Order yours today at www.oneupcomponents.com


MENTIONS: @OneUpComponents



Author Info:
OneUpComponents avatar

Member since Nov 25, 2013
59 articles

78 Comments
  • 102 1
 Now I get it why they ditched 26" wheels. More space for bigger sprockets...
  • 8 3
 Yup and to think, the bigger the wheel, the bigger the gears to achieve the same gear ratio as a smaller 26inch. This conversion would be great for fat bike setups. I want that decal on last pic.
  • 36 1
 Well on the plus side at least there's no worry of the mech getting lodged in your spokes any more as it'll hit your rims instead Wink Smile
  • 8 0
 With 24" in the rear, the cage will rake the trail. They should have improved the cage design for that, bit more rake shape.
  • 10 1
 Internal gearbox = end the madness
  • 2 0
 Yep, put some prongs on it and lets get the rake and ride movement going! No need to ever choose between riding and trail maintenance again! I agree the more of us who call for IG the sooner it will start replacing this nonsense. I'd ask why Oneup doesn't do it but its obviously a lot easier to bastardise the work of others by machining cogs than it is to engineer and produce a better system.
  • 60 7
 I would honestly rather run a front derailleur at that point. That's ridiculous.
  • 39 4
 But the whole point is for the industry to get rid of the front derailleur to then bring it back in the future as a new invention that will "change the way you ride forever"
  • 11 1
 "new-lightweight, compact rear cassettes"
  • 9 2
 It's all just another way to make money, they don't really care about the riders like they used to!
  • 3 0
 @TomWillDave @DARKSTAR63 you guys are spot on. I had a good laugh when I read your comments! I couldn't agree more. Can't wait till a company thinks of a way to get rid of those ridiculously huge sprockets in the back!
  • 14 3
 This stuff is getting pretty nuts indeed. I recall when they went to 10 speed cassettes in the rear that Dirt Mag UK (printed, I don't know about PB, internet is new for me) was all over it as they could now ditch the front mech as you could already get sufficient range with a single ring in front. So now we have 11 speed like that 10-42 w/30T and you finally have a range close to a 2x9 setup with 11-34 w/24-34 in front. Their 11-50 w/34T gives you about the same as 2x10 with 11-36 w/24-34 in front. And a one-by setup was going to be simpler than two-by? If you control the front mech with a grip-shift, you'll never have to adjust it. If you don't shift, it is like a top guide those one-by systems seem to need anyway (more on that later). If you accept that accidentally switching to small-small will give you a slack chain you can stick with a small cage rear mech. With those one-by systems, you need a long cage. To tame that, they introduced these chain stabilizers. And to show off you're running a one-by system (why) you can ditch the top guide because a narrow wide chainring provides sufficient retention (though teeth count is now limited to even numbers). So you've got a more expensive chainring that wears faster. Has stuff become simpler really?

Same goes with tubeless tyres actually. It is simpler as there is no tube and the sealant seals the punctures and you can run lower pressures as you can't risk a snakebite. At the same time, rims became wider as this allowed the tyres to seat better and not roll off at these lower pressures. Thing is that these wider rims already work better at avoiding snakebites if you do run tubes. And a latex (so no butyl) tube (these green ones) are lighter and more flexible hence don't pucture too easily anyway. I actually bought a kit and a bottle to convert my wheels to tubeless but never got myself to do it. It is harder to put them on, messy if you regularly want to swap tyres and it seems like a bit of a waste if you do puncture on a ride and need to remove your carefully installed valve to get the emergency tube in. I may be swapping more tubes trailside and patching more tubes back at home (as tubeless riders obviously don't) but in return I won't have to bother with refreshing the liquid, removing the gunked up stuff and any frustrating installation issues.

There may be a small performance increase with these new systems but it seems you need so much more refined components and tools to make it all work properly, it doesn't really seem worth it unless you're really competitive and any loss in performance or any bit of time "wasted" on trailside fixes is considered unacceptable and well worth any amount of time spent in the workshop. If you travel halfway around the world for that one event, I get it. But really for someone just going out for a blast missing a few pedal strokes here and there because of a dropped chain or getting just a bit less grip from the tyres (hence requiring a bit more skill and balance to make it work) doesn't really make it that much worse of a ride. What would put me off is if every ride would relate to an obscene amount of maintenance.
  • 26 6
 Like the look of the 10T cluster but the 50T cog is just completely idiotic.

I am unfit and when out on the trail bike dont need more than my 30t x 40T cassette, infact using that gear I am pretty much going as slowly as I would if walking up a hill - This is just a product produced for the sake of producing it.

And another one regarding gearing range - How many people spin a 32x11 out other than meaningless fire-roads?! - If you are racing this may matter to you but then if you are racing you are probably fit enough to run a larger ring anyway!

This is just progression into parts for fat guys with money to buy bikes they cant handle so need a band-aid to get up hills. Just get an E-bike and go full idiot.
  • 13 6
 disagree with you here. If you're in Vancouver area, pop in to John Henry Bikes. One of their mechs created a spreadsheet comparison for 1x vs 2x. You can put your different configurations to figure out how they match up. If I go 1x I have to sacrifice something on either end - either I have to give up climbing or powering downhill. The 50T would give me both if I go with a 32 up front. That means I can still climb the steep stuff around here.
  • 13 2
 The value of this product is that you can run a bigger chainring to get more range at both ends.
  • 1 1
 I'm with @Racer951 on this one. If the descend is so flat (in smooth, not necessarily level) that you spin out on 32x11, you're wasting your hard earned climb. Unless maybe you're Thomas Vanderham and indeed need to go insanely fast to hit that huge step up. But otherwise on "real" terrain I believe that once you go fast, you should pump to maintain or increase your momentum. It may be different for everyone. Some seem to like to tuck in and pedal fast just to go as fast as possible. But quality time for me on the descends is when it is rough and twisty where pedaling is pointless.
  • 21 1
 I think that no matter what gear range your bike has, there's always going to be a grade steepness point where it's just easier/better to walk your bike up anyway.
  • 13 2
 Funny part that no one has mentioned - buy an 11-42 XT cassette, add the 50t kit, the 10t cluster, and the mini-driver and you STILL end up cheaper than an equivalent (X1 or better) SRAM cassette and XD driver. Whether it's actually better or not is up to independent testing, but it's just hilarious to me that you can buy all these add-on parts and still do it cheaper than a SRAM setup.
  • 8 4
 Sram XDome is a work of art and quite a bit lighter than Shimano's rings pinned to a carrier. XD Driver is also a better design then Shimano's freehub body IMO.
  • 6 4
 It is a work of art. The problem is that works of art belong on display, not in the line of fire. I COMPLETELY disagree however on the design of the XD driver. It's miserable. Installing and removing SRAM cassettes is a PITA in comparison to the Shimano design.
  • 10 8
 @TheRaven although you may not like the XD driver, I for one am ready for progression in the cassette free hub interface. Neg props await, but I'll say it, the classic shimano style free hub sucks. Now that we have huge cogs, the amount of torque on those splines is only increasing. All of my free hub bodies get notched out super bad by cassettes and it is terrible. The XD may not be the solution but I'm sick of hating anything that's different just because it's different.
  • 1 3
 I'm not hating on it because it's different. I'm hating on it because it sucks. Notice i'm not complaining about this OneUp freehub...yet.
  • 2 4
 One up doesn't make freehubs, maybe you are thinking about cassettes?

The freehubs is what the cassette slides on to, it's the ratchet mechanism. The splined cylinder that inevitably get notched out by the torque of the cogs on the cassette.
  • 4 1
 Boy do I feel like a horses ass! (nope, I didnt read the article, scrolled over pictures and straight to comments for the good stuff) I stand corrected!

regardless my initial point is still valid. the cassette has made a lot of changes and the freehub splines have not changed in a few decades.
@The Raven have you personally experienced the notching I'm explaining? maybe its a non issue and I'm the only one. But I suspect it is a big problem that ruins a lot of freehubs unnecessarily. My comment was/is that although the XD driver may not be the final draft, I appreciate a fresh attempt at this problematic area.
  • 1 0
 @speed10 Regarding your initial point. With the gear comparisons they show in the article, it doesn't really seem like these setups are supposed to deliver a lighter climbing gear but instead give a faster top end. They do so by running a larger chainring. So the lightest gear remains at about 0.7 hence the max torque (rider strength and crank length remaining similar) transferred to the freehub hasn't changed either. With 32 and 22 in the front and a 11-34t cassette, my lightest gear is actually lighter (below .65) than what they have there. But this is old stuff proven to do well with these Shimano freehubs. That is, they work well on Shimano hubs, which I'm happy with. I also have a set of wheels with DT 440 hubs and these freewheels are softer and are being dented by the cheaper cassettes. More expensive cassettes (Deore XT) have the larger cogs riveted to a carrier which distributes the load on the splines and I haven't had issues with those really.

So yeah I do understand that notching can be a problem (as it becomes hard to take the cassette off) but I believe it is more due to the cassette design and freewheel material choice than due to the actual design as the torque hasn't really changed. No one is going to be running a two rings in front any just to have the 22t there as well. The derailleur cage capable to compensate for that would rip your trails apart!
  • 1 0
 @TheRaven

Those "notches" are made by the spline teeth of SRAM cogs, not the squared and wide spline teeth like shimano cogs.

Also, the reason for more gear range was to catch gear ratios up to the bigger wheel sizes. Something people brush off easily.

1x for ease of use and weight reduction.

2x for the steep, while retaining top-end-gearing and component longevity.
  • 14 1
 10-50t? Time to admit you need 2x
  • 10 0
 Soon you will need a Bash-Guard for the Cassette!
  • 9 1
 I feel like I would be cheating if I used something as wide ranged as this... Super glad they're innovative though!
  • 6 0
 Can't wait for the PB poll asking whether with this, 1x drivetrains have jumped the shark... Wink
  • 3 0
 drive ratio = driven gear/drive gear

10-50 w/34t
50t driven/34t drive = a drive ratio of 1.47
10t driven/34t drive = a drive ratio of .29

10-42 w/30t
42t driven/30t drive = a drive ratio of 1.4
10t driven/30t drive = a drive ratio of .33

11-42 w/32t
42t driven/32t drive = a drive ratio of 1.31
11t driven/32t drive = a drive ratio of .34

You gain some on the high end by being able to run the 34t and still gain a bit on the low end for climbing. Don't quite know how their marketing math works but it is no where near as big of a difference as there big colourful bar graph suggests.

Good concept!

Slightly embellished!
  • 1 0
 The divide the other way around. Which is fine with me, I don't know what is common but both work. The scale they show is linear and it fine to me. I'm usually not really that much aware which gear I'm so I can't compare these numbers with how I ride. But it isn't wrong how they display it really, is it?
  • 1 0
 I never divided the other and see that is what they have done. It is however wrong as drive ratios are always calculated as driven over drive. It is physics. 34t drive with a 50t driven is gear reduction (1.47 drive ratio), If you divide drive over driven (34t/50t) it gives you a ratio of .68 (as stated on the colourful marketing picture), any ratio below 1 is an over drive (fast speed), you are not in overdrive when you are on your dinner plate 50t gear. Math and physics don't lie, marketing and advertising does. Again I am not knocking the product, it is a good concept and does widen the ration, just slightly false and exaggerated numbers to make the general public think they can't live with out it.
  • 1 0
 Ok, just saying that this is the first time I even looked at these numbers and neither way seems like a lie to me. It is just like frequency vs period. It is both physics, both true. It is just a different way of looking at the same thing. For someone in the general public to decide whether he or she can live without it, he or she has to compare for the range of what you currently have to what they offer here. And if you use the same way of calculating, you can still compare. As I mentioned elsewhere in the comment section, the widest bar shown there is comparable with 24 and 34 as chainrings and a 11-36 cassette. I'm not advocating the product, but I'm not against the information provided there. It is just that these numbers are just numbers until you compare them to something you're used to and calculate the same way.
  • 6 0
 Hmmmmm...That rear mech looks very very close to the ground !!!!!
  • 5 0
 Yeah your right mate!... I was trying to move away from that problem on my bike to be honest... :-/
  • 3 0
 It's for stability, kinda like a training wheel hanging off the right hand side.
  • 4 1
 The first rock garden you get to after proudly riding up the steep ascent (and wearing yourself out) you will smash off your derailleur, with its 2cm of clearance from the ground Smile
  • 5 0
 I don't get why one up doesn't make entire cassettes. Makes more sense than throwing out half of your new parts...
  • 15 0
 because they can't sell a cassette for $1100,but they can sell one cog for $100.
  • 6 1
 this how we ended up with fat bikes. we took a good idea and just kept going till it was dumb...
  • 2 0
 You know what pink bike and my wife have in common, they both bitch all the time..

Oneup had to do something to stay relevant / in business with everyone going 1x11.. This 50T makes sense for some people; everyone has different wants a needs, If it doesn't meet yours, sorry. Stop being a self centered pc a shit and move on..
  • 1 0
 Would be interesting to see a longevity study on how these larger cogs impact the life of hub bearings. That's a whole lot more leverage placed on a system that had issues with 36t cogs. Can't imagine the torque applied will be kind to bearings or pawls or other small bits inside there.
  • 1 0
 If the gear ratio is the same as a comparable 2x setup the torque won't be different. So if it holds up with 2x it'l hold up with the 50t
  • 1 0
 This has probably already been said, but the point of this isn't to get an easier gear. The point is that you can run a larger chainring in the front if you want a higher top speed but you can keep the same climbing ability. Although I do think that 50t is ridiculous and imo at that point just run 2x
  • 1 0
 Hmmm... two articles on the same thing. I guess it takes a lot of marketing dollars to sell this stuff. Obviously the idea is to be able to run a larger front ring and get some taller gearing back. Too bad it takes tech from a 15.00 Shimano Mega Range 6spd freewheel on your 5,000.00 dollar bike to get 1x a little closer to working for the average rider. Still doesn't do anything for the lousy chain line though.
  • 1 0
 One Up has NW chainrings that correct chainline issues.
  • 1 0
 @barrysbikes: NW does not correct the chain line NW just tries to force the chain to stay on with the horrendous offset.

Some 1x and convertible cranks are marketed with an improved chain line for 1x but there is no such thing. If the chainring is moved in for better alignment in the large cogs it I'll be worse on the smaller outer cogs.

This seasons large cogs are just another example if the industry aknowledging the major short comings of 1x and a lot more people are waking up to that fact by calling bullshit on 50t rings and 12 speed cassettes.

Even Norco's newest Optic comes with a 2x crank "for a better chain line" installed and a 1x ring in the box.
  • 2 0
 Weird that they don't list the range of the 10-46 option. I'm currently riding a 10-42, and 10-46 seems like it would be ideal. 50t is just stupid big.
  • 6 2
 Have some self respect people, cogs should not be larger than rotors.
  • 2 0
 You haven't heard of the One-up 240mm rear rotor?
  • 1 0
 why not just make a whole cassette? I might consider something similar (maybe not so extreme) when it comes time to replace my existing worn cassette. seems like a waste to toss perfectly good rings on a new cassette.
  • 1 0
 This looks awesome! I'm really liking what OneUp has been inventing. I should have held off on buying an XD driver and XX1 cassette had I know OneUp would have been producing components so quickly !!!!!
  • 4 0
 April Fool's.
  • 1 0
 Next thing up a rear cog that runs along the rim maybe.. So you can enjoy the view of the growth of plants while you ride up the hill!
  • 3 0
 That derailleur is low and exposed.
  • 3 0
 Thats ridiculous..at this point just stick 2*
  • 1 0
 Maybe if they make it 10-60 I won't have to get a Zerode Taniwha. Of course if they did make a 10-60 my derailleur would drag along the ground, so I'd still need the Zerode..
  • 3 0
 Fuck it, I'm going back single speed.
  • 2 0
 Spec tires on a TR, madness!
  • 1 0
 That 50t is the same size as my front chainring on my commuter road bike... it makes uncomfortable
  • 1 3
 One-up and Hope trumpeting that their driver is a non-proprietary design is a misdirection from the fact that they are introducing a new freehub standard. Sawing off the end of a Shimano HG cassette may not look difficult, but it still necessitates the purchase of a new freehub body, and likely new endcaps. It may be a free design to manufacture, but not to purchase. Why not just incorporate the XD driver like E13 did?
  • 3 0
 Gear box
  • 4 1
 Its all a load of crap
  • 2 0
 If you need a 50T cassette ring, you should probably buy an e-bike.
  • 2 0
 10 to 40t is the way. Banging deal on the driver too, just $40?
  • 2 0
 Amusing. I remember riding my mtb with a 50t up front!
  • 2 0
 id get this set up and still get a front derailleur
  • 2 0
 too much space between gears. NOT.
  • 1 1
 FTW!!! SINGLESPEEDS FOREVER!!!! If I cant climb it in my 28x20 i get off and run.
  • 1 0
 3x8 4 lyfe
  • 2 1
 Shit
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