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TomBasic paulaston's article
Mar 5, 2015 at 9:26
21 hours
Check Out - March
I have been using Beto gauges (have had two) for the past decade and have been very happy with them. This is PricePoint's rebranded version, which is the same as what I've gotten previously from them except for the labeling: They have a lot of features (spend your time reading the manual, as most negative reviews are from people, who obviously haven't figured out all the features), the battery lasts forever, don't know about absolute accuracy but I've been using them happily on my cars, too, and there they accord with other gauge readings.
TomBasic pinkbikeaudience's article
Mar 4, 2015 at 23:04
1 days
Ask Pinkbike: Loose Crankarms, Dumping my DH for an AM Bike, Direct-Mount vs 4-Bolt chainrings and Bike Vacationing in Finale
I have used JB Weld successfully to address the loose crank arm issue on my Stylo cranks. I got them used, and since the bottom bracket had a notchy bearing I had to get a new bottom bracket. Truvativ/Sram had since gone to slightly different bearing/spacer dimensions, meaning the arm didn't seat as far down on the spindle. Even when fully tightened, the arm still had loose play on the spindle, which could be felt by alternating "level pedal" positions, i.e., left foot forward, weight the pedals, then right foot forward, weight the pedals. It was either ditch the whole set or simply try some $7 JB Weld. I put it on the spindle, cinched the arm on, waited 24 hours, and I was good to go. It has not deteriorated through use, I've done repeated 3' to flat concrete drops with no issues (weigh about 190 lbs. plus with gear), and I've also been able to remove the crank arm with minimal effort. When it came time to reassemble, I just knocked off the old epoxy and put on some fresh JB Weld, and I'm a happy rider. Just make sure you don't get it on the crank arm bolt threads.
TomBasic mikekazimer's article
Feb 2, 2015 at 23:11
Feb 2, 2015
17 Race Bikes - RockShox Enduro Challenge
Ryan de la Rue? Yes, it seems his Enduro is a 26". I'm also thinking Graeme Mudd with his Orange Five.
TomBasic brule's article
Feb 1, 2015 at 22:38
Feb 1, 2015
Photo of the Month - January 2015
Forget Tippie's skin, I feel sorry for that poor board!
TomBasic mikekazimer's article
Feb 1, 2015 at 22:26
Feb 1, 2015
17 Race Bikes - RockShox Enduro Challenge
Are ANY of these guys running 26" wheels, or are they all 650b and the one 29er (Rhys Atkinson)?
TomBasic RichardCunningham's article
Jan 31, 2015 at 21:08
Jan 31, 2015
Reynolds R27.5 AM Wheels - Review
Another one of those "speaking out of both sides of his mouth" reviews.
TomBasic fise's article
Jan 31, 2015 at 20:14
Jan 31, 2015
Video: FISE - Best Crashes of 2014
Last guy was like, "I'm cool, bro. Pshaw, naw, man, it's nothing."
TomBasic SCOTT-Sports's article
Jan 31, 2015 at 20:01
Jan 31, 2015
TomBasic paulaston's article
Jan 31, 2015 at 20:00
Jan 31, 2015
CORE Bike 2015 - Randoms
Hey Jumpman2334, the real issue is the ridiculous prices people want to charge for for tubeless valves. $10 for one valve, or $4 for a 20" tube? And, I just looked up 949 racing. O.k., those valves actually look quite nice, and at $4.25 each are a valid choice. Thanks for bringing those to our attention. Another option is that Continental makes 20" schrader-valved innertubes that have a full threaded stem, meaning they are similar in nature to presta valves and not rubber coated like the typical schrader valve.
TomBasic paulaston's article
Jan 28, 2015 at 0:42
Jan 28, 2015
CORE Bike 2015 - Randoms
I have zero understanding of what the big deal is regarding tubeless valve stems. I've always gotten mine from used, presta valved inner tubes, and I've never had any problems with them. I just make sure they're the ones with removable cores, which are becoming more common, nowadays. You're welcome. And, for ghetto tubeless I simply use the valve that's on the tube. Why wouldn't you do that...?
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