aliclarkson
- Member since Jul 1, 2010
- 64 Followers
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Blackpool , United Kingdom - Male / 29
Recent
May 1, 2013 at 6:43
May 1, 2013
nice shown at the scottish bike show and nice back flip
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Selling
Apr 10, 2013 at 3:37
Apr 10, 2013Profile 40 stem with Ti bolts
$40 GPBHi, I'm selling my Profile 40 stem. I bought it to experiment with different bar/stem setups and decided this combined with a cruiser bar wasn't quite for me, so after one ride it's up for sale.
It's in good condition with no scrapes or gouges but there is some very light marks from being stored (photo shows side with marks, they are near the steerer clamp bolts). I upgraded the bolts to Ti that use a 6mm allen key.
Stem is 60mm
Postage is £3
Thanks
Ali
Selling
Apr 10, 2013 at 3:30
Apr 10, 2013Sunline V1 pedals
$35 GPBHi, I'm selling my Sunline V1 pedals, They've only had light use but do have a couple of scratches, but all the pins are there and tight, the axles are straight and the bearings smooth with no rattling. They are impressively grippy and you'd struggle to break them. I'm only selling due to a new pedal sponsor.
£4 postage
Cheers
Ali
Selling
Mar 20, 2013 at 4:54
Mar 20, 2013Orange 5 AM 16" Maxle
$1500 GPBUnfortunately I am flat out broke and I am having to part with this bike which I have really enjoyed owning.
It's a 2010 Orange 5 AM with Maxle swing arm, upgraded paint and Sunline finishing kit. Since owning it I've fitted an E13 guide and chainring and Shimano SLX cranks. I've also swapped the normal seat and post to an SDG I beammodel.
It's in pretty good condition bar a couple of scratches (shown in pictures). Forks and shock are smooth with no marks on stantions. Gears work but the guide is a little noisy in lowest gears (nothing too bad though). Brakes probably need a little scrubbing in since I cleaned the bike, though in the carpark ride the front brake was getting back to good performance.....the lever feel is solid on both brakes, but the lever pull on the front one is pretty small (starts close to the bars as I like it, but only pulls back maybe 5mm untill the brakes on). the seat has a little rip on the back and the front tyre is a little cracked as it's a little old, I'll supply whatever tyres I have spare with the bike though.
So yeah, solid bike, best riding full sus I've tried (and I've tried a few). Everything works well, wheels are solid Hope built Hoops...I'm sad to let it go really.
I'll include postage in the price...if you have any questions or would like to see the bike please ask, I'm in Blackpool/Preston. Thanks
aliclarkson RichardCunningham's article
Feb 20, 2013 at 7:59
Feb 20, 2013
To the Point - DT Swiss Talks Spokes
I build wheels for a well known trials company, so yeah I've built a few. All nipples should be lubed regardless of their material.
Sounds like a bunch of engineers talking. They think they know everything. From ACTUAL wheel building experience Brass nipples have much higher friction under high tension than Alloy, no amount of "but alloy sticks to drill bits" will make me change my mind. I've snapped Brass nipples when building wheels and I've yet to snap an alloy one even at higher spoke tension (yes I have checked with gauges).
aliclarkson RichardCunningham's article
Feb 20, 2013 at 3:27
Feb 20, 2013
To the Point - DT Swiss Talks Spokes
I never said alloy was stronger than brass, I said alloy was strong enough. People don't complain when bars, frames, rims are all made of it, they shouldn't be scared of alloy nipples either. I've never broken an alloy nipple.
aliclarkson RichardCunningham's article
Feb 19, 2013 at 14:27
Feb 19, 2013
To the Point - DT Swiss Talks Spokes
if you're good at building wheels, a tension meter tells you what you already know. I'm not saying I'm the best wheelbuilder in the world, but I do build wheels for a well know trials brand and I'd hazard a guess they take more abuse than pretty much any other type of cycling. I don't use a tension gauge as I know that all the spokes are turned the same amount. If the rim is bad quality, then you have no choice in applying different tension to get it straight so a tension gauge will already tell you what you know.
Building wheels isn't some black art, you don't need 20 years experience and some kind of "gift" to make a wheel last. Just follow a pattern and a bit of common sense will get great results. I've not had to true my wheels for over a year now and that with heavy street use with failed spins and tailwhips and that was without a gauge.
It doesn't surprise me that a company that makes a tool would suggest that people who didn't use their tool didn't do as good a job.
The important part is the stressing of the wheel, most people just bend the wheel over a desk/lap or bend it with their arms and elbows or maybe press it against the floor. For a super strong wheel that's just not enough in my books, I find putting the wheel on the floor and stamping on it gives best results, though not advisable for lighter XC or road rims.
I'd never consider using Brass nipples either, there's just no point, lubed alloy nipples will still be useable years down the line, they can allow tighter spoke tension (I'll explain if needed) and they are lighter, win win.
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