Professional Bike Instructor and Guide/ Ski Instructor and Guide in the winter.
Added 6 photos to my-sell-items
May 15, 2015 at 15:53May 15, 2015
May 15, 2015 at 15:52May 15, 2015
As per the title, barely used but a bit of scuff damage from winter riding. Cheap and simple for your DJ or pumptrack bike.
amrskipro mikekazimer's article
May 15, 2015 at 14:26May 15, 2015
7iDP Covert Knee Pads - Review
G-Forms do exactly what they are designed to do. Will they survive a catastrophic crash? no, but my knees did and that is what is important. expecting a knee pad to be thin, light, cool and unobtrusive but lasting multiple falls is unrealistic.
May 7, 2015 at 21:17May 7, 2015
http://www.answerproducts.com/components/stems/dj-stem/ Mint condition, came off my pumptrack bike (replaced with a NSB Overlord 40mm - go local awesomeness!!) does the job if you need a 50mm rather than a 40mm. Built like a light weight tank. Probably outlast most bikes!! Stiff and wide for 31.8 mm handle bars. $30 cheaper than best local price and save the tax. No I won't swap, no I am not desperate to sell it so don't low ball offer. Set a time and a place and turn up with three green ones and it is yours.
amrskipro bcenduroseries's article
May 5, 2015 at 6:58May 5, 2015
Osprey BC Enduro Series - Sunshine Coast Recap
A lot more poeple in the Open Men demographic actually pay money for their bikes and bike parts than in Elite/ Pro men. The top five Open Men are usually pretty fast and could be top twenty Elite on their day but real life commitments such as a non bicycling job, family etc mean that they don't have the time to train full time. Sposnorship is not just about Pro level results; do you represent the sponsor well, do you generate good brand exposure, do they like you and respect the way that you represent their brand and the sport in general. So many factors contribute to the 'sponsorship' package. Mainly sponsors see it as good marketing helping someone who represents the average rider/ racer who is throwing down real cash for their product.
amrskipro pinkbikeaudience's article
May 4, 2015 at 11:39May 4, 2015
Video: One Hand on the Bars
Yes great brake cylinder profile but below average power, average modulation, wooden feel and horrible squealing from wet brakes. I guess I'll stick to worse spacial design so that I get great power, superb modulation, great feel and near silent braking in all conditions. No plastic in XTR or Saint M820 BTW.
Posted in "Stem?!"
May 2, 2015 at 7:20May 2, 2015
amrskipro skylerd's article
Apr 24, 2015 at 9:30Apr 24, 2015
Call of the Wild - Bikepacking the Coast Mountains
@ ryan83 There are two cables coming from his right bar/ grip area (see photo of him looking out of mini tent) which leads me to believe Rohloff hub. But an extra mini-article on your bike, bike set up, adventure gear and packing philosophy would be interesting in itself. Well done on a real adventure.
amrskipro mikelevy's article
Apr 19, 2015 at 14:46Apr 19, 2015
11 Dual Slalom Bikes - Sea Otter 2015
Protect a previous injury, wear a sponsor product so the kiddies go out and buy it especially as he is always in skinny jeans so you cannot see his knee pads, lots of potential reasons.
amrskipro shimano's article
Apr 16, 2015 at 10:30Apr 16, 2015
First Look: Shimano's New Deore XT Group
Everyone that fusses about whether you need a 10T or an 11T on the lower end of the cassette and whether or not it is important to your overall riding should s*&t the f*&k up and go ride a real trail rather than b*&^h about not having a high enough gear to spin to the shops with. No one cares that you spin out on your sh*&ty back woods fire trail or nature park cruiser trail. And certainly the mountain bike industry should not design parts for the 90% that work for the 10% of these choppers. As the kind of person that proposes this stupidity is probably a Strava^%hole, why don't they look at their trail speeds after their rides and really ask themselves "was I pedalling to go faster at that point?". When you are going more than 35 kmph (30T front and 10T rear = 35.8 kmph @ 90 rpm/ 30T front and 11T rear = 32.6 kmph @90 rpm) on a real trail on an all-mtn bike you are probably not pedalling at all and if you are it is not very often, probably just a short burst to carry momentum through a slight uphill section. DH bike different story but then they run different cassettes, different front chain ring sizes (eg 36T front to 11T rear = 39.1 kmph). So you are talking about compromising the efficeincy of an entire drive train for the 0.5% that can actually use it on a trail (ie the real expert rider at elite level) or for some corner shop run punters! Right this particular aspect of this discussion is so pointless and so boring that I have put myself into a coma. Punters; slap yourselves in a face with an old cassette (I don't care how many teeth or speeds it has), everyone else choose the front chainring size that works for your fitness, riding ability and local terrain and go outside and enjoy your ride.