Roval Traverse SL Fattie WheelsetAs the saying goes, "everything old is new again," and when it comes to wheels, we're in the midst of a wide rim resurgence. Although once common in the DH world, the last generation of wide rims tended to be prone to denting and extremely heavy, traits that saw their popularity slowly fade. Now, the use of carbon fiber, along with updated rim profiles has helped usher in a new era, allowing for the creation of wide, strong, and light wheels that are aren't solely suited for the DH track.
Specialized's carbon rimmed Roval Traverse SL Fattie wheelset joins the recent wide rim movement with an internal width of 30mm and an external width of 35mm, and a light weight of 1550 grams for the 27.5" pair. The use of carbon fiber typically results in a wallet-emptying asking price, but the Traverse SL Fattie wheelset falls on the more reasonable side of the spectrum, coming in at $1,500 USD. For those not willing to shell out that much cash, Specialized also offers an aluminum option for $600 that has similar dimensions, but with a slightly different hub internals and a weight of 1690 grams. Specialized does impose a rider weight limit of 240lb for the carbon rimmed wheels, but no such limitation is in place for the aluminum versions.
Details• Rims: carbon fiber, hookless bead
• Intended use: trail / all-mountain
• Width: 35mm outer, 30mm inner
• Diameter: 27.5'' (
tested), 29"
• Tubeless ready
• Spoke count: 24 front, 28 rear
• 3 vinyl decal color options included
• 3 year warranty.
• Crash replacement: $125 per rim plus labor.
• Rider weight limit: 240lb
• Weight (
actual, w/ rim strip): 1550 grams
• MSRP: $1,500 USD
•
www.specialized.com ConstructionThe SL Fattie's carbon rims use a zero bead hook design that allows for a the creation of a stronger sidewall, one that's claimed to be more impact resistant than a more traditional hooked profile. It's also a design that's less costly to manufacture, which helps keep the overall price of the wheels down. During the assembly process the wheels are laced, tensioned and trued by hand; the front wheel is laced up with 24 straight pull DT Revolution spokes using a 2:1 pattern, meaning there are twice as many spokes on the disc side as there are on the non-disc side, which is radially laced. The rear uses 28 spokes and the more common 3-cross lacing pattern. What's the reasoning behind the reduced spoke count? Specialized claims that the rims used on these wheels are the stiffest they've ever made, and running additional spokes actually made the wheels
too stiff. Plus, there's the added benefit of the weight reduction that comes with running fewer spokes. No special tools are required for truing, and the spoke nipples are accessible without removing the tire, making any trailside adjustments or repairs that much easier.
Both the front and rear hub can easily be configured for varying axle standards (15 or 20mm thru axle for the front, 142 or 135mm for the rear) by switching out the included end caps, and an XD drive is available for running a SRAM 11 speed cassette. The rear hub shell houses the same internals that are found in a DT Swiss 350 hub, including a 54 tooth drive ratchet system, which works out to 6.7 degrees between engagement points.
InstallationThe SL Fatties come with rim tape already installed, and valve stems are also included, so setting them up tubeless is extremely simple. There is also the option of replacing the rim tape with the included Delrin
plug system that Roval came up with, an ingenious solution to close up the spoke holes which saves 60 grams. Tires from Maxxis, Specialized and Bontrager were mounted on the SL Fattie wheels at different points during the test period, and there was no trouble getting any of them installed with only a floor pump. Everything seated and sealed by the time the pump's gauge reached 40 PSI, and it was smooth sailing after that. The fit between the tires and the rim was snug, but not unduly so, which prevented any loud cursing or the smashing of inanimate objects when installing and removing the tires.
On the TrailDetecting the difference between one set of wheels and another isn't always easy, especially when there's five or six inches of suspension involved, but that wasn't the case with the SL Fattie wheels. Within the first few hundred feet of trail their light weight was readily apparent, especially since the wheelset whose place they were taking weighed nearly a pound more. Standing up to sprint was met with a quicker than usual burst of speed, and the same held true on the descents. I took the SL Fatties on the most rugged trails around, wheel punishers full of sharp rocks, roots, and countless jumps and drops, and came away impressed. I'll admit to being skeptical of the low spoke count, and my track record with carbon wheels isn't the best, but these unflinchingly handled everything I threw their way, and they remained true for the duration of the test, without any spoke or rim damage despite repeatedly being taken on DH-bike worthy trails.
The stiffness of a set of carbon wheels is one of their most touted benefits, but just like with handlebars, trying to make them as stiff as possible isn't always the right tactic. I've been on wheels that felt too stiff, creating an unforgiving ride that's quite jarring, a sensation that gets old on long, rough downhill runs. Fortunately, Specialized has struck what seems to be the perfect balance with the SL Fatties. They're quite stiff without being harsh, with quick, precise handling that's extremely responsive to rider input.
I experimented with a number of different tires to see what effect the 30mm inner rim width would have on their handling. Of particular interest was how Maxxis' 2.3” Highroller II would fare, as this was the tire that ended up feeling too squared off when we ran it on
Ibis' 35mm internal width wheelset. It ended up working just fine, with no adverse changes to its handling. If anything, the wider sidewall profile and lower pressures that were possible gave it even more traction, which was especially appreciated when navigating down steep chutes full of a mixture of mud and hoar frost.
It seems as if 30mm is still narrow enough to avoid negatively affecting the profile of most 2.3” tires that are on the market. The profile does become more squared, but not to the extent that occurs with the super wide, 35mm or greater rims, and the center tread still remains elevated enough to preserve the handling during cornering. Other tires that were used during the test period included a 2.3" Specialized Butcher, along with a 2.3" Bontrager XR3 and an XR4. The rounder profile of the Bontrager tires was particularly well suited to the wider rims, giving them a very predictable feel in all conditions. While ideal tire pressures will vary depending on tire, terrain, and rider weight, I was able to run pressures in the low 20s without experiencing any excessive rolling or squirming, and the bead stayed securely seated without emitting even the slightest burp of sealant.
The Highroller II on the left is mounted to a rim with a 23mm inner width, while the one on the right is on the 30mm SL Fattie. On the wider rim the tire's width, when measured from sidewall to sidewall increases slightly, and the side knobs stand up straighter. You can see how the tire on the SL Fattie is a bit flatter in the center portion compared to the one mounted to the 23mm rim.
IssuesThe occasional high pitched 'thwang' that the wheels emitted during hard cornering or slightly off-kilter landings was the only issue I had, and it's a fairly minor one at that. The noise is likely the result of the low spoke count and straight pull spokes reverberating from being rapidly loaded and unloaded. At first I thought that incorrect spoke tension could be the cause, but I found everything to be as it should be - there's simply something about the SL Fattie's design that makes them a little more resonant than other wheels I've been on recently. Otherwise there's nothing else to report – the bearings are still spinning smooth and are free of any play despite being subjected to numerous muddy, grimy rides, and the wheels haven't needed to be trued yet.
Pinkbike's Take: | I'll admit, I'm a bit of a traditionalist when it comes to wheels, and I'll always have a soft spot for a handbuilt, aluminum rimmed, 32 hole, 3-cross wheelset, but spending time with the Traverse SL Fatties had me singing a different tune. Wide, light, stiff, and strong, they have all the qualities a high end set of wheels should possess, and the fact that they're not exorbitantly priced (for a top of the line carbon wheelset) earns them bonus points as well. In fact, I'd say that Specialized have created a benchmark that other companies would do well to try and emulate - the SL Fattie's numbers all add up to make an impressive wheelset, one that would be an excellent upgrade for just about any bike out there. - Mike Kazimer |
Visit the high-res gallery for more images from this review.
It just mean that the spokes unloads, so there is not enough spokes to maintain the rim. Carbon is strong, but nobody want wheels that only rely on rim strength only.
Been thnkn bot derbys+ck hubs. Kinda waitn for tires to catch up tho
I ride Bootleg every weekend I am not riding a bike park somewhere. I bought these wheels 4 mos. ago and absolutely love them. Very stiff and firm under my over-weight hack riding style. My stock aluminum wheels had become so dented and weak, not only did my lbs not want me riding them for safety concerns(also were untrue-able), but they were so "flexy" and flimsy the bike would not track under my weight in corners and g-outs. Even with my hack riding style these wheels perform great. At least once a week I hear the loud plastic-like thud of my carbon fattie bouncing off one of the million large rocks at bootleg, yet when I inspect my wheels, I find no evidence of such impact! (I do not recommend this riding style/technique)
I Have sliced a few spokes due to high speeds and rocks getting kicked up into wheel. I would prefer a larger spoke but other than an occasional guitar twang under heavy pressure, they are Great!!
Very surprised w/ impact resistance and will probably invest in the Procore system when available.
I fit somewhat in that category (210#, tend to plow rather than bunny hope over things). Just got an Enduro 29 that came with those wheels so hoping they would last - worry about spoke count though. Running Mobby Nic Evo/Snake 2.35 (22psi) front, Rock Razor EVO/Snake (25psi) rear - only have 2 rides so far.
Procore sounds interesting as I managed to destroy a 26" DH derby rim on my 4th day at whistler earlier this year (tire had loud pop, rim was exposed soon afterward - Derby did not want to crash replace (lame). Spec list #125 crash replace, but hopefully I won't have to find that out.
@ 86kg, I run 26 PSI front / 30 PSI rear.
Best wheelset I've ever ridden... Stiff, light, grippy as hell! And 1/2 the price of Enve.
Up until this point I have light-bicycle rims champion....
But I'm an even bigger fan of the fattie wheelset, although are they worth twice the price of the LB? Probably not. Bike investment is exponential - double the price gets you 20% better. Double it again for 10% better etc
www.light-bicycle.com/carbon-29er-mtb-rims-38mm-wide-hookless-tubeless-compatible-strongest.html#.VMAjHkfF-Lk
and there's a 50mm rim too but the cross section looks questionable
www.light-bicycle.com/Carbon-beadless-50mm-wide-29-inch-rims-for-29-plus-mountain-bikes-tubeless-compatible.html#.VMAi6EfF-Lk
Ride some hardpack or loose over hard with that 2.3 HR2 up front and get back to me about the profile not being too square......2.4HR2 is a much better choice for a front tire on those wheels...that said I'm happy to be back on i25s
Where you running the 2.3 HR2 up front?? The sideknobs end up slightly narrower than the casing making for very little traction when leaning as a front tire. I also found it acceptable as a rear but that and the 2.3 Minion were unrideable for me up front on the wide rim. I don't know what I'd call the dirt on my home trails but it is on the hard and loose side. The original highroller and minion were developed here and they both work pretty well on hard rocky conditions, especially if you have it paired to the proper width rim. I've gained allot of speed with the i25's and HR2's.
We shall see if boost 148 gets adopted as 650b/29 standard by then too.
www.velocityusa.com/product/accessories/veloplugs
The exception being Fat & plus bikes, where the tires are already designed for a wide rim. Part of my desire for a 27.5+ wheelset & tires is that it's the first truly wide rim+tire setup designed for aggressive riders. It may really be a half measure though: I tested a Salsa Bucksaw Sunday, & can say without any reservation whatsoever, it's the best bike I've ever ridden. I would own one in a heartbeat, if it was affordable for me. Hell, I'd own it as my only bike even: it was that good.
jedrzeja - Butchers Control 2.3 are as wide as NNics 2.25, measured 55mm on 21mm rims (casing volume). On 27mm internal rim, Butchers come to 58mm. My Minions EXO 2.5" are 61mm wide (casing volume) on 21mm internal UST ETRTO GTFO OMG LOL rim.
This time around on my Enduro 27.5", I elected to save the $1000 and go with the Aluminum variants.
I was able to weigh both sets before I pulled the trigger, and at least on the gram/postage scale I used(at my LBS), there was only an 80gr difference between the two sets. For me personally, I'd ask my wife to shoot me in the pooper if I EVER paid $1000 to save 80-grams, so this decision was a complete no-brainer.
As far as tire size is concerned, I took advantage of the extra width and mounted up a Hans Dampf 2.4(actually 2.5) in the front, but stayed with the stock-size 2.3 Slaughter in the rear.
One would expect the new Slaughter at the very least, but even the produced-from-now-on Butcher/Purg to be engineered to fit[properly] on the 30mm rim(i.e. the tire takes it's designed shape and profile when mounted on these wider rims), but after comparing their profile on these rims to 'em on the old-style narrow(er) wheels, they clearly aren't.
Still, I could tell straight away in a particular section of trail I ride that is a sand-over-garage-floor, off-camber, quasi-sweeper, that you take at 25mph+/-, the Fatties and their extra width really DO provide more traction. Usually my front end will slide when I hit this particular section of trail, but I've now ridden over the same section with the HansDampf/Slaughter combo mounted on a pair of Traverse Fatties, and the front end hasn't slid ONCE.
Probably the best $600(I actually paid $540 w/tax) I've ever spent on a MTB
The descent itself is a bunch of exposed rock, and loose rock everywhere. In and around the exposed rock is sand-on-garage-floor. When it rains(rarely), it actually turns to a nice loam for a day.
The carbon Rovals I had were 29", and they were MUCH stiffer than the stock aluminum rims that came on the bike. The stock wheels were 2200gr noodles.
The aluminum Traverse Fatties I have on my 27.5" feel plenty stiff as well. If I had to give an answer, I'd say that they're at LEAST as stiff as the carbon Rovals, if not more. They're not overly-stiff however. The wheels feel fluid.
As you can imagine, the terrain I described above kinda beats the snot out of the wheels and suspension. There's an area where you have to brake over some exposed rock with straight edges. I watched a buddy brake through there on his stock 29" "Expert'(2014, so last gen Rovals) right after he bought the thing, and those wheels were twisting like they were gonna come out on the other side as pretzels. The Fatties stay completely composed.
While I rode my carbon 29" wheels over and through the rocks, and they came through pretty-much unscathed, as you prolly know carbon fiber doesn't do well with direct impacts. Why I never took any rim-shots while I had those things I'll never know, as I just plain don't have that kind of luck. I would have to be saving a TON of weight, and/or my alum Fatties would have to be twisting like wet noodles in order for me to consider carbon wheels anymore.
These Traverse Fatties are so close in weight, and are so strong that the $900 I saved by buying them instead of the carbon Fatties made the decision a TOTAL no-brainer.
Hope this helps
Regarding the breakage, could it just be bad luck? I've snapped DT Comp spokes when sticks decided they wanted to impede my progress, but not the Pillar bladed spokes. I am going to assume that I will hit something that snaps a Pillar spoke someday, it's just a matter of time.
As for a wide rim resurgence, it does all sound like marketing hype. I've been running EX729s for ages, that size of rim just makes sense.
Abzillah - yes, EX471s look nice. I've also got EX500s on Pro2s. Did the EX471 replace that rim ?
Yes, the EX471 is the wider and lighter version of the EX500.
I am running two sets of EX500 on Hope Pro II's on my AM and DH bike.
Also, Chris King is almost double the price of Hopes here in California.
Regarding reliability, I have owned 3 sets of Hope Pro II's, and two of them I still have and I haven't had any issue with them.
Probably about 10,000 miles on two sets of Hope Pro II's each so far, though I sold one bike with hopes out of the three.
WTF. Can i rewrite this moneygrab?
'Specialized makes these wheels for 600$, but for you trust fund kids they have some goofy-ass 1500$ carbon version with a weight limit and an insignificant 140g weight reduction.'
firstly, crash replacement isn't a full purchase now is it?! You've already bought something from them and you're basically getting a heavily discounted REPLACEMENT for something YOU have broken yourself. You will give them back the wheel you have broken and they will either rebuild the rim on new spokes or replace outright. Your broken wheel will help find faults that will in turn, improve their product. This isn't them selling something at a lose, this is a big company helping out its consumer which in turn, maintains the interest and loyalty of said consumer to the brand and its products. It doesn't have to do this but if it didn't it would lose further potential sales.
Secondly, yes some products are cheaper to make than the final RRP. Break down the actual RRP cost of the product:
Take 40% off for the shop who sells it. That will incorporate the shops profit which will pay the wages, taxes, and rental costs.
The other 60% will be specialized's money. This will cover wages of the company staff, taxes, logistical costs, design, research and development, advertising, production, shipping costs of those products and then, after all that, they have company profits.
Yes, it's lots of money but, in the grander scheme of things, they've bloody well earnt it.
If you can develop a product that stands up to the task that YOU EXPECT for a minimal price like $125, which you think is still a profit, get your arse off the chair which is in front of the laptop and get to it. Once you start doing all of the above and make something that's 10% worthy of the final products companies are putting out, come back to us and tell us your price. I doubt you have anything less than the price stated for the wheel set. If you somehow manage this and it's fully legit, I'll finance your whole production..........
AM I COOL YET?