Ask PB - Rear Shock Upgrades, Water in Frame, and Fixing Stanchion Scratches
Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.
Less Travel, Better Action
Question: Pinkbike user Evo360 asked this question in the all-mountain, enduro and cross-country forum: I recently bought a Whyte T-129 Works SCR with 120mm of travel and 29'' wheels, and I'm finding the rear suspension is a bit harsh and far from being plush. Can I upgrade the bike's shock to something that provides a plusher, deeper feeling? I was thinking of something like a Float X or Monarch Plus to replace the Float CTD shock that's currently on the bike. I'd like to retain the bike's playfulness, but I could do with a more planted feel when things get rough. Then again, I've just come off of a 160mm travel Lapierre Spicy, so I guess the Whyte is never going to feel the same as that, but more stability would be nice.
 | It is true that your 120mm Whyte is never going to feel as stable and planted on rough ground as the bigger Spicy did, and that the smaller travel bike is going to get knocked around a bit more, but there should be a few things that you can to improve your situation. Going to a piggyback shock isn't one of them, however, as the use of a piggyback is to provide more damping oil for a more consistent feel during long descents, not to make for a more active ride, which is a common misconception. If I were you the very first thing that I would do is to try and optimize my current setup before spending any additional money. I would consider how often I'm using full travel, and if the bottoming incidents are hard or more inconsequential - you're not locked into an exact sag figure like 25% or 30%, so try running a bit less air until you find yourself using too much travel too often, or bottoming too hard. Add 5 PSI at a time until you're only bottoming hard on the biggest impacts. Your Float shock's CTD lever can also be used as a crutch that allows you to run less air pressure for a more forgiving ride when set to Descend mode, but then you can flip it to Trail when you're looking for a firmer feel. The other option that I'd consider is to try a different air can that utilizes a longer negative spring to provide a much more active, coil-like feel at the top of the stroke. FOX's new EVOL air can does exactly that, as does Vorsprung's Corset air sleeves that are an easy add-on. The feel between the stock and aftermarket air sleeves is night and day, so it's well worth considering if you're happy with your Whyte otherwise. - Mike Levy |
Vorsprung's Corset air sleeve for FOX shocks proves a much more active and coil-like feel.
Water Accumulates in My Frame
Question: Biking4speed asks in the comment thread of PB's Commencal V4 review: I have a Commencal Meta V4 and I'm very pleased with it. However, I've found one problem: there is an opening at the bottom of the seat tube, where the cables enter the down tube, and it is right in the firing line for mud. And, with no drainage hole by the bottom bracket, the water collects in the bottom after washing it. I've emailed Commencal and they said they are working on something, but I was wondering if anyone else is having this problem?
| Internally-routed cable housings and hoses are the trend, and you are not the only rider who has discovered that the entry ports give easy access to moisture - and that standing water can accumulate in the frame's bottom bracket area and secretly destroy the bearings from the inside. Many years ago, when I was building bicycles, we ran into the same problem. The solution is an easy one: determine the lowest point of the underside of the bottom bracket and carefully drill a 1.5-millimeter hole in the center of the shell (1/16" will work if you have an inch-sized drill index). Water will find its way out and your frame will stay dry inside. Don't worry about water entering through the same hole. Even if you pass through a number of stream crossings, only a drop or two will be able to enter the frame, because water's surface tension dramatically slows the flow rate through such a tiny orifice. - RC |
Niner's R.I.P. 9 has vent holes at the low points in the frame to allow water to exit. Some bike makers know this trick, but unfortunately, most don't, and when moisture is allowed to accumulate in the bottom bracket area, even if the bearings are sealed, premature failure is almost guaranteed. Should you decide to add vent holes to your BB, use a stop on the drill so you won't damage internal hoses and the BB assembly by plunging the spinning drill bit into the unknown.
Fixing Stanchion Scratches?
Question: dlalor asks in the Mechanic's Lounge forum: I am wondering if it is possible to repair your fork stanchion for cheap. I heard rumours that nail polish and special lube may fix it but I'm not to sure if this is true.
| The sound of a stanchion scraping across a rock is mountain biking's equivalent to nails on a chalkboard, and it often means that a bit of maintenance will be necessary to avoid causing damage to your fork's oil seal. Depending on how deep the scratch is, and assuming that the stanchion isn't dented, the nail polish trick is a quick and relatively easy way to repair a scratch. First, get a bottle of clear nail polish and some high grit (1500+) sandpaper. Next, make sure that the stanchion is clean and free of any dirt or oil. Evenly coat the scratch with the nail polish, and then let it dry. Once the polish is dry, carefully sand the area you polished until its height is even with the rest of the stanchion. It may take a few coats of polish and sessions with the sandpaper, but with patience you should be able to take care of small to medium size scratches this way. Keep an eye on your repair every few rides to make sure the polish is remaining in place, but in most cases this should be a relatively long-lived fix. - Mike Kazimer |
Luckily, most stanchions have a coating that helps ward off scratches, but accidents do happen.
Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.
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Commencal Bikes
-If modifications have been made to the bike,
Whyte Bike
-This warranty will not apply to frames which have been improperly assembled; or modified; or have had parts or accessories fitted which are not compatible with the frame.
Trek Bikes
-This warranty is void in its entirety by any modification of the frame, fork, or components.
A bib hole is a modification.
Its on there web sites and its not hard to find. Its only good customer sevice if they warrentie the frame with a bib hole.
Your choice, you run the risk.
They will absolutely recommend that you do not drill a hole (can't blame them for this) but will not be able to deny a warranty claim that has nothing to do with the modification.
also: feeblesmith thanks for being full of knowledgeable
How good was it? Good enough I don't hate my Fox 2012 CTD Triad anymore. I quite like it, but I did have to order the volume reducer kit as a follow up. Thing was so plush, I needed to make it a little more progressive at the end.
Hahaha and all the funny comments above..made my day..
For such a small hole, you can just go for at one shot.
The bottom center of the BB is a very low stress area, but taking steps to protect the surrounding carbon will prevent any problems.
You may not want to admit you've supplied some incorect advice, but you have. I have been working solely with suspension for 5 years and I have seen the long term results and down sides of using nail polish on stanchions. It is not a fix and may lead to further issues. (The nail polish flaking off in your fork and blocking orifices). Now I don't expect you to change your post, but deleting mine, which was based off of far more experience than yours was completely unprofessional.