Ask Pinkbike: Downsizing Wheels, Choosing a Front Tire, and Buying a Used Bike
Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.
Downsizing Wheels
Question: Pinkbike user ebender1123 asked this question in All-Mountain, Enduro and Cross-Country forum: I'm currently riding a 29er hardtail and am thinking about upgrading to a full-suspension bike. I've tried out a few bikes and have fallen in love with two in particular: a Santa Cruz Tallboy and a Cannondale Habit. I liked the Cannondale more, but I'm skeptical of making the switch to 27.5" wheels. Should I be?
 | First things first, you should definitely not feel skeptical about switching between wheel sizes, be it going from 29" to 27.5" or vice versa. We're at the point now where there are great trail bikes available with either wheel size that everyone is going to enjoy riding. Choosing between a 29'' wheeled Tallboy, and a 27.5" wheeled Habit is really a win-win situation that's kind of like picking either ribeye or tenderloin cuts of steak for dinner - you're getting steak either way you look at it. Regardless, I think you've answered your question by saying that you like the Cannondale more, so that's the one you should buy. The Habit is also one of the first 27.5" wheeled bikes I've ridden that can climb technical, low-traction terrain as well as the best 29ers, which is the type of setting where big-wheelers usually dominate. The one caveat here is the Habit's Lefty fork that isn't up to snuff compared to a Pike or 34 when talking about damper performance, so keep that in mind. That said, the Habit and its Lefty offer unparalleled steering precision, and the geometry makes for one of the best handling short-travel trail bikes on the market. - Mike Levy |
 |
 The Habit climbs like a 29er but is more playful than most other big-wheelers. Clayton Racicot photo |
What's a Good Front Tire?
Question: BartDM asks in the All Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country forum: I was wondering which tires you use for the front? I had Specialized Clutch (26 x2.3), but after few years, I had to change it. Now I got a Schwalbe Hans Dampf (26 x 2.35), but I am not happy with it. First, it looks smaller than Clutch (although it is labeled as a bigger size) and I have that feeling it doesn`t work well in the corners. Do you have any recommendation or ideas?
| The font tire of the moment is by far the Schwalbe Magic Mary, which has been the number one choice of EWS enduro and pro DH racers for two years running. And, fortunately, the Magic Mary is available in 26-inch sizes. The soft compound rubber and pronounced edging blocks find traction almost anywhere and in nearly any conditions, and I have yet to discover a front tire that delivers more confidence in the turns. The downside of the Magic Mary is some rolling resistance on asphalt and hardpack - and reports from riders in wet and rainy places who say that the rubber compound can be slippery on wood. Another popular favorite that is a go-to for riders in every climate is the Maxxis Minion DHF. It is tough to beat in any conditions and is trustworthy on wood - but it is heavy and also suffers in the rolling resistance department. Finally, the Maxxis High Roller II - a fast rolling tire for hard pack trails - is another popular option (and one of my all-time favorites) that pedals well and cuts a tight apex in the turns. - RC |
One of the most blacked-out tires on the start-lines of enduro and DH races, Schwalbe's Magic Mary is the front tire of the moment.
Buy and Sell
Question: Pinkbike user ParkerJonesmtb asked this question in the Downhill Forum: Hello fellow MTBers. In the near future I hope to purchase a new DH bike off the Pinkbike Buy/Sell, but I am fully aware parts or even the frame can be cracked or broken. Can someone compile a list of what I should check? Just don't want to be scammed.Thanks.
| The first thing would be to check out the Buy and Sell Safety Tips in the forum. There's pretty much all the advice you could ever need collated together in this one place. Try and find a bike within close proximity so you can meet the seller and give your potential new baby a check over, failing this try and get to know the seller over email and judge for yourself if they are trustworthy or not. If you decide to meet up for a cash transaction, bear in mind a scammer would know how much paper you might have about your person; counter this (rare) danger by planning a bank transfer with your smartphone, or it's best to go with somebody (preferably a mechanic) and meet in a well lit public place, in front of a police station is a good idea. I would concentrate on the frame to start with, followed by the most expensive components, if the chain is worn out it won't break the bank if you don't spot it. Cracks in the frame would be the biggest loser so head straight for the major problem areas around the headtube, bottom bracket, shock mounts and chainstays. Hairline cracks can appear on welds and can be difficult to spot so need careful inspection. Look for crash damage on carbon frames and consider stickers or tape could be hiding something. Check fork and shock bushings for free movement/play and any strange knocking noises or oil leaks. Finally check the small components for wear and tear, and consider that some used bikes may have had a liberal helping of 'Bullshit Spray.' This means a good wash and covering with GT85 or a similar oil-based spray can leave an old knacker looking like new. I have bought and sold bikes in the past and thanks to the friendly community we are part of have never had any problems. Most riders are genuine, honest people and won't be upset if you change your mind. Remember that once the transaction has been made, it's 'sold as seen,' if you get home to find the headtube falling off it's your fault and you have no come-back. - Paul Aston |
There's some great deals to be had on Pinkbike's BuySell, just remember to protect yourself from any scammers.
Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.
Author Info:
Member since Jul 22, 2013
Must Read This Week
Sign Up for the Pinkbike Newsletter - All the Biggest, Most Interesting Stories in your Inbox
PB Newsletter Signup
I was lucky enough that the guy was honorable, and gave me some money back. Most people would disappear after pulling a fast one.
just used it last week. user was banned. Tks PB
Always wondered why pinkbike doesnt have such thing.
Here's a link for example from a car forum I used to frequently buy and sell on, I easy turned thousands of dollars of car parts back and forth across the country. forums.nasioc.com/forums/itrader.php?u=152984
www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=176079
I'd say your best bet is to contact bike shops & online stores that sell wide rims (ranging from 35mmOD / 30mm ID to 40mm OD / 35mm ID). Carbon rims are available from a number of brands including Ibis. Alloy rims like Velocity Blunt have been around for a while, and now some manufacturers are releasing wider alloy versions such as WTB ASYM and Syntace W35 & W40. Expect more brands to release rims soon. If a shop sells the rims they should sell the tyres to suit.
Pinkbike review by Mike Kazimer recently said:
"The DHF is noticeably faster rolling than Maxxis' rather sluggish Highroller II, a tire that is spec'd on many of the bikes we've reviewed this season. The Highroller II is a decent tire, but for sheer versatility the DHF gets our pick, offering better cornering and reduced rolling resistance in a slightly lighter package."
www.pinkbike.com/news/maxxis-minion-dhf-275-review-2014.html
"Rolls faster"
"More precise steering"
"Less nimble"
blah blah blah blah and on and on. Its all subjective! I want DATA damnit! Accelerometers, strain gauges, string pots, thermocouples, bring it!
PS - If a tire is so "sticky" wont it just pick up dust and dirt and small animals until its covered, and not stick to stuff anymore?
As a front they're possibly the most reliable and well rounded design there is. They shine on loose conditions with phenomenal directional stability. The EXO casing balances weight/durability perfectly and that's very important in our unforgiving rocky terrain. Contis and Scwalbes live very short lifes here.
DHF/DHR2 combo for the win.
@slipnjloc - I personally have had a lot of great experience with Schwalbe while they have been rolling under me, I think as far as trail tyres go, they are the best. When air is in them. However durability wise... ouch... pinch flatted sidewalls, torn off knobs, easy to cut. I torn off a knob on an uphill for Gods sake... On an ironic note, most people I know that went through all sorts say that Magic Mary is the most durable of all Schwalbe tyres.
Heck from their website "Our most popular and versatile mountain bike tire." keep it in the line-up maxxis, HR2 is a good tire, but it's too different to be a good replacement for the original.
The Vigilante is supposed to be just under 800 grams and so far holding up well after several hundred miles on the front. (Live in Phoenix, AZ...so fairly rocky terrain.)
I found a good bike store proximate to the seller, called and arranged for them to act as escrow. They would check out the bike, report to me and then I would pay them to ship it to me.
The benefits of this are:
- Professional mechanics check the bike out in their well lit shop
- Professional mechanics package and ship the bike, something that they are very good at.
- Since I pay for shipping and insurance I get to deal directly with the shipper if there is damage in transit. No need to rouse the seller over my problem.
The key is finding a shop you can trust that is close to the seller.
Wtf, no it isn't. Slowest tire I've ever used and wayyy slower than a DHF or DHR2. I can't be the only one who thinks that...
@dropoffsticks , who cares as long as its legal.
My other set of tires are the DHR2 both front and back (I suffer from OCD so everything should be matched) and they roll much faster but still grip great but not as much as the MM.
I think that when I overcome my OCD I will keep the MM in front and put the DHR2 in the back.
Pros/racers are the last people you should buy bikes from, they're always clapped. Don't fall prey to the "new grips and tires" ploy.
Having known a few guys who race pro/expert a lot, I wouldn't pay for anything they've ridden. If they get it free/cheap, they don't care about riding it hard and doing things they "shouldn't"
I suggest buying used to almost everyone I talk to who is interested in getting more into biking and doesn't have upwards of 2k to drop on a new whip.
Yup! The DHF is a great tire, it grips and grips in the corners but when it goes... Think it's because you can get them leant over so much that you have no chance to recover if it lets go.
IMO, with the [greatly] varying terrain, rim-width options, suspension, and multitude of linkage and geometry possibilities, it's pretty hard, if not damn-near impossible for anybody to label any particular tire(not talking chinese shit here) as not worthy.
Mountain bikes, and the terrain they're ridden on is so much more variable than MX bikes and tires. MX tracks are gonna consist of a one or more of just a handful of terrain conditions, and pretty much every MX bike in a given class has the same wheel and tire size(s). I mention MX, 'cuz the bike rags-hence their readers- like to treat MTB tires like their sister MX publications do, by labeling particular tires a particular way, and there's just too many variables to do that beyond the very basics-big spaced out knobs for loam/wet, shorter, shorter spaced knobs for harder terrain etc.
What works for me and my 240lbs weight, riding on my Spec Enduro 29" through rocks, sand, silt and blue groove, might not work for you and your 155lbs weight, riding a 27,5" Trek Fuel EX 9 with 24mm wide rims, riding in the wet and/or loam(you lucky sonofabitch) up in Oregon or Washington. The same tire might exhibit TOTALLY different characteristics for you than it does for me.
Used parts can be a good deal but I always check local & online sales / clearances / new old stock prices first. A good rule of thumb for buying / selling is a used part in good condition should be half-price or less compared to the lowest price I can find for the same new part.
@santoman I didn't realize that, they must be one of the few that do that. I've only recently become familiar with that brand and have it on the short list of next bikes as well. Also Gorilla Gravity you know because 'Murica.
Mike, rather than continue to bash the only fork on the market that addresses two major issues with the market leaders: why don't you validate your claims that the Lefty is not up to the level you seem to think the 34 is at. I agree the Pike is a great fork and is better than the Lefty at most things. However, the 34 is a flexible, old fashioned, pogo stick in comparison to the level of technology in the Lefty.
Lets go over the differences between the Lefty and the 34:
Price: Lefty is Cheaper
Weight: Lefty is lighter
Performance: Needle Bearings are buttery smooth, and side load binding is non-existent . The 34 is crunchy in comparison
Stiffness: The lefty by a country mile.
Compatibility: 34 works with pretty much every mid-range and up wheel set, Lefty is C-dale hub Specific
Ease of Service (for the average user): Full rebuild on a lefty is under half an hour. Try that with your Fox nonsense
Facts Mike, Facts. Before you bash something at least try to give it a chance. This isn't the 90's anymore: Bashing Cannondale isn't how you're going to be cool with the kids.
Do any of those things count as giving the Lefty, Pike, and 34 a chance? I hope so.
Bashing Cannondale? Not so much. I reviewed their Habit awhile back and it remains one of my favourite bikes of the year, and I said some good things about the bike's fork in that review. I explained how insanely flex-free it is, and that it's a light fork. The fact is, though, that it's not as supple as a current 34 and me saying that isn't bashing anyone - it's talking about my experiences, which is my job. I have two 2015MY 34s on bikes right now, not including those that have come stock on test bikes, and all of them are more slippery than the Lefty on the front of that Habit. Want more "bashing"? The biggest reason I'd chose a 2015 / 2016 34 over anything else right now is because its damper is well ahead of what's inside the Lefty, and I also believe that it's a bit ahead of what's in the Pike. That's the deal breaker. Call it bashing if you want, but I'll just call it making an informed decision that's based on a hell of a lot of experience. Or I might call them facts.
Just for fun, here's my dream mid-travel fork: a Lefty chassis that's as supple and active as a 34, the latest FIT damper from Fox, and the air spring and token system from a Pike. It'd have non-adjustable travel, but it would use the latest three-position damper from Fox. Cannondale is working on some cool stuff, and I predict that we'll see a Lefty in the future that's going to impress everyone.
Putting aside subjective traits of each fork (plushness, feel, even stiffness to an extent) I still feel the the Lefty is a better choice for the average rider.
Like you, I have spent countless hours riding the current and past line of Lefty's. The Oliver has the potential of being on my cross/commuter for 2016. When my Slash arrives this January a fresh Supermax will be installed. I am also lucky enough to be in a career that allows me to ride all the new, and cool bike tech that arrives each year, including the 2016 Fox lineup.
You cannot simply write me off as lacking knowledge in this field.
While each rider will have a different opinion of each forks subjective properties, the Lefty is better where it matters.
What is the single most important trait of a piece of suspension for the average rider. Weight? Plushness?
The single most important aspect of a fork is not simply how well it performs, *but how long it can perform at that level.*
This was an area Marz was legendary. The 888's on one of my DH bike are long past overdue for a service, however they still perform amazingly.
The average rider will not respect the service intervals of their suspension. You've worked in a shop as a mech, you know this is irrefutable. Riders will only come in when something is "broken" or when there is a physically noticeable problem with their suspension. Only then will they had over the money required to rebuild their fork.
In every metric of service life the Lefty will outperform the 34 (even the fancy new one). This means that even if we were to agree that a fresh 34 is better performing than a fresh Lefty, the Lefty will continue to perform long after the 34's performance has been reduced to that of a elastomer. As not every rider is a mech, or works at an globally viewed magazine the 34 will likely not be serviced at the 100 hour mark.
You could argue that a rider who doesn't service their suspension at the service intervals is a abusive owner, however, this is the majority of your reader-base so feel free to alienate them. You have polls on this site that indicate just how rarely suspension rebuilds are performed.
The average rider does not need a single run with amazing suspension, they need consistently good suspension performance.
This is what the Lefty offers, and this is why the Lefty is a better fork than the 34.
You said, "... the Lefty is better where it matters.'' Well, I'd argue that damping and the spring matter the most, but that's just me. Give me a 6lb fork with the rigidity of a 34 (which isn't a noodle in the slightest) and the best damper and spring instead of an ultra-stiff chassis and a sub-par damper.
It takes next to no skill to drop the lowers on a 34 or Pike, and a damper rebuild can be done by a competent mechanic with the right tools, just like with the Lefty. You can talk about ''every metric of service life'' for days, but the bottom line is that all of these forks will need some TLC at some point, and many (most?) riders will be shy to take apart their fork to any level regardless of what type of suspension they have.
Speaking of service, here are Cannondale's actual recommendations for their latest Lefty:
- a needle bearing reset every 50 hours (simple and quick, but I bet some riders aren't even aware they need to do this, and are losing travel without even knowing it)
- an air spring service every 50 hours
- lube the telescope scope at 100 hours
- full telescope rebuild at 200 hours
- pro service annually
Fox's full service is actually at 125 hours, but there are other service recommendations that comes before that. Both forks require care at all stages of their life, and there's nothing wrong with that. I used the same 34 for a year without any issues last year (not really "single run"), while others might have had issues at the 1 hour mark. This can be said of any fork, Lefty included. To say "In every metric of service life the Lefty will outperform the 34" is pretty big stretch that I'd disagree with.
I've had a DHF that has done a week in Malaga (with dry and sharper rocks) and months of riding in UK with better condition than the MM.
all-mountain-next.blogspot.dk/2014/12/review-specialized-butcher-control-23.html
1. If the price is to good to be true then it probably is.
2. Always check their profiles. A new account is a potential red flag. I'd go for those who have sold tons of items already as an indicator and regular posts in various topics here as a good sign.
3. Research the bike for potential issues. This is always help[ful especially if you can't inspect the bike yourself. You can ask detailed photos of the bike where potential issues may occur (head tube, bb, etc)
4. Of course, nothing beats having the bike checked personally so if you can do that, do that! Inspect everything. a few minutes with your face very close to the bike can save you hours troubleshooting or out of the saddle later.
5. buy from a friend, if possible. at least you know how the bike is used.
6. deal with paypal or any secure payment methods similar.
7. Don't be lazy and do some more research, truth is, there are awesome bike frames for sale for ridiculously low prices from reputable bike shops and online bike shops. Granted that some may not be of the newest make.