I usually try to put everything I might need on my bike rather than carry it in a backpack, starting with the idea that it'd be perfect for short rides but now running the same setup on some pretty long adventures. Yes, the overall combined weight of myself and the bike doesn't really change, and it can actually be more inconvenient than reaching into a bag to grab a tool or tube, but it just feels nicer to not have a backpack on. Also, the tools and supplies are always there when you need them - you literally can't forget them at home. There are some easy solutions to carrying what you need. Specialized's EMT multi-tool bolts to the bottom of their Zee bottle cage, and it includes a flat-blade screwdriver, T25 torx, 3, 4, 5 and 6mm hex keys, as well as a clever 8mm that's been chopped down to only the bare minimum to take up as little room as possible. I've found the tool bits to fit a bit sloppy, to be honest, but it's fine for on-trail adjustments. It doesn't include a chain tool, but Specialized also makes a nifty version that's part of headset preload assembly. Again, it's not shop quality and it's a little finicky, but it gets the job done, which is exactly its intentions. When it comes to air, I prefer to bring both a small pump and a C02. I save the latter for myself because I'm an a*shole like that, but the pump is for everyone. SKS makes a nifty carrier for both that fits under your bottle cage, carrying the pump and C02 on either side. Attaching a tube to a bike is a little trickier and not nearly as clean looking, though. I fold up a tube so it ends up being a nice, tight little rectangle, and then I use a ski strap to hold it onto my bike. The strap, which is basically a short, plastic belt, costs only a few dollars and is way less ghetto than using tape. You can even stuff some tire levers in there as well. The alternative to all of the above is, of course, a saddle bag, although I know many riders who are too proud to be seen with one under their seat. There can also be clearance issues with your rear tire buzzing it when your seat is lowered. With all of the above and one bottle on the bike and another in the back pocket of my Race Face STASH bib shorts, I can be out for three or four hours without a backpack. Weather permitting, of course, as warm temps require more fluids, and questionable weather might call for a jacket on the descents but not on the climbs, which is where a pack comes in handy. Some of those ideas won't work for every rider, but you can use them to come up with a solution that works for you. - Mike Levy |
First off, I'd recommend against riding very far until you have this resolved. Those "handling problems" you mention could cause serious injury, especially if your tire rubs the fork hard enough to stop the wheel from spinning and tosses you over the bars. Depending on your mechanical abilities I'd recommend heading down to your local bike shop to have them assess the situation, but in the meantime here are a few suggestions you can try at home. Although it sounds like you already spent some time checking over your wheel, my initial thought is that the front axle could be broken, something that's more common when combining a disc brake with a quick release axle. Take the wheel completely off the bike, and give one side of the axle a tug. If it's broken, you'll probably end up with a snapped piece of steel in your hand and a bunch of greasy bearings on the floor, but at least your problem will be solved. Another possible reason for this problem is if the quick release is slipping in the dropouts, either due to a faulty quick release or from dropouts that have become worn and wallowed out. With the wheel still on the bike and the quick release secured, stand on the left side of the bike and give the wheel a firm tug towards yourself. Is there any movement? If the dropouts are worn, or if the knurled part of the quick release isn't gripping as firmly as it should, then the force generated when applying the front brake could be forcing the axle to shift downwards, which would cause behavior you described. If the wheel's not to blame, then an issue with the fork, possible extremely worn bushings or even a cracked or broken arch would be my next guess, but in any event I'd imagine a trip to your local bike shop will still be in order, either for the parts or service necessary to get you safely riding again. - Mike Kazimer |
I spent a day testing tires with Michelin earlier this year and discovered there is far more to their development program than weight savings alone. Some of the prototypes are lighter than production tires for sure, but there are plenty of other things they test and try. Everything from rubber compounds and carcass thicknesses to different plys and tread patterns. After these basic elements, things can start to get really complicated. Some of the tires have a dual compound and then you have the two main compound types available to the consumer - the softer Magi-X and marginally harder Gum-X - that's four different types of rubber and each of these compounds can have different rebound speeds within the rubbers properties used. Engineers and riders also try to figure out how the thickness of different rubber plys work with each other as the friction created between the layers can give a different feel and level of support, which then has to be compared to pinch flat and cut resistance. Tread patterns change rolling speed, braking traction and cornering grip, but then these are also affected by all of the above as well. Oh, and then there's rim width, tire pressure and rider weight to take into account on top of all that... It's really interesting to see how much testing they do with their athletes and it seems to be helping them get back into the game after their Comp 16 glory days. - Paul Aston |
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www.mtbtime.com/outdoor-gear/p/camelbak-octane-lr-hydration-backpack-330cu-in.html
Looks bigger than it really is in this pic, probably is stuffed with newspaper. Empty it's totally flat and you don't feel like its there.
I can carry 2 C02 cartridges, a tire lever, a multi tool, zip ties etc. Plenty of room, weighs no more than a bottle of water. Spare tube gets zip tied under the seat.
Weight is off my back, I'm happy.
*helps to have two water bottle cages if you want to completely eliminate the back pack. I'm going full fanny pack (who spells it phanny btw) as soon as an Enduro specific one comes out.
www.mounttamapparel.com/#!endurobelt/c1ser
But road biking is good for fitness. I can squeeze an hour ride in on my lunch break, whereas the nearest trails take 10 min to get to, so only 40 min if I mountain bike (which I do, but less often during my breaks)
If I really need 3L of water I'll use the pack. But the fanny is the jam.
abzillah- Dakine makes a nice fanny pack for biking that carries a water bottle, phone, wallet, hand pump, multi tool, tire levers, tube, snack, etc. without being obnoxious, but during a crash it hasn't provided me with the same padding that my full pack has.
velonews.competitor.com/2014/04/bikes-and-tech/reviews/reviewed-specialized-mountain-bib-short-liner-with-swat_323619
I have two pairs and honestly they are the best shit ever. Good light chamois and wicking light material. Beyond just the back pockets, there are also super handy hip pockets ffor keys, cellphone, co2 etc
I ride without a pack in the bike park and while I prefer that feeling, it's not a night and day difference.
Anything over 2 hrs I'm camelbakin' it. Anything under I'm taking my Dakine "Enduro Hip Pack." Enough room for everything you'd need, and much more comfortable than a full pack and definitely preferable to landing on my iPhone and smashing it.
After reading some positive review I bought a fannie pack from a certain well known backpack manufacturer with an affinity for dromedaries. It hold 1.5 Liters of water as well as some gear.
No matter how tight I pull the strap or how much gear I leave at home I just can't get it to sit comfortably and not bounce around. Am I doing it wrong or is there a pro-fannie pack conspiracy trying to brainwash us?
www.vitalmtb.com/photos/features/2016-Mountain-Bike-Apparel-Protection-at-Eurobike,9338/Source-3,97226/bturman,109
Words fail me...
It bounces up and down, even when only lightly packed. I was surprised because I'd read so many good reviews of different Fannie packs like it. But I think the whole concept is flawed (unless I'm doing it wrong, or have just bought a crap design).
Have you tried packing all of the heaviest/most dense objects (multitool, etc) closest to your body with lighter items on the outside? No guarantee that this idea will help, but it does make a huge difference in the way the load handles when skiing with a pack....
*And for all you super mega extreme riders out there, if you think you charge hard enough to shake the strap loose and lose your goodies, you don't. You'd have to be reentering the Earth's atmosphere to do pop this thing off.
Thanks for picking up the comment.
Are you able to say how the prototypes rode, or is Michelin wanting to wait for product launch day?
I've always liked the look of the wild rock'r 2 advanced reinforced, but it is a bit too much tyre for most of my riding.
Cheers
A tube, a multitool, spare master link and a little pump or C02 cart....What else is there?
I fear people are not maintaining and prepping their bikes well enough if they're bringing more than that.
Don't be afraid to leave some dude to walk back to his car if the alternative means you could be in the same situation further down the trail. Perhaps then they will learn.
I usually tape a tube to my frame, and keep a small C02 pump and 2 canisters + a tire lever in my pocket. I won't wear a pack unless I have to now
Hipsacks seem really passe, but the things are damn convenient. They can hold a lot, are easier to get into than a backpack, and leave you feeling so much lighter. I don't know why so many people need big packs for shorter rides.
sorry this came up when I read the comment about being naked without a pack.
www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-gear/review-backcountry-research-minimalist-mountain-gear
Such as those.