Ask Pinkbike: Handlebar Roll, Which Transition, and Timing With a Stopwatch
Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.
What Roll?
Question: Pinkbike user chase1212 asked this question in the Downhill forum: I need your guys' help with my handlebar roll, if that makes sense. As in, how far back it should be, or how far forward the bar should be rolled? I just got the new ENVE DH handlebar and a new ENVE stem, but there are no markings for roll on either. Where should I put them?
 | The general answer to your question is that it all comes down to personal preference and that some people prefer their handlebar rolled forward more while others like it rolled back. That said, there certainly is a limit that's defined by the sweep of the handlebar: if it's rolled too far back, the ends will actually start to angle down ever so slightly, but too far forward you will lose some of the backwards sweep that's designed to make it feel more natural. There's no trick to figuring this out, but sitting on your seat with your hands on the grips, and with the handlebar clamp just loose enough to rotate the bar slightly, will allow you to tinker with it until it feels right. Watch for the droop at the ends when it's back too far and use the handlebar's logo as a baseline - the company wants this to face forward. I like to use a whiteout pen to make tiny witness marks on the side of the stem and the bar that align with each other, a trick that makes it super easy to get it back exactly where you like it after having to remove your handlebar or stem for any reason. - Mike Levy |
 |
 The ENVE handlebar and stem lack any sort of alignment markings, but it should only take a few minutes to find a position that you like. Use a whiteout pen to make tiny witness marks on the side of each so you know where you like it. |
Which Transition?
Question: Pinkbike user WillJacobson recently asked this question: I am looking for some input on bikes. the two bikes are the Transition Patrol 2 and Scout 2, both similarly priced. In a bike I'm looking for one that will climb with ease but will still handle super well through relatively big jumps and rough terrain, and hopefully not kill my hands. I am racing the Cascadia Dirt Cup and raced a 160mm bike in it last year, and at times felt I suffered through the slower stand up and pedal sections. I see positives to both, and when I rode them they both were awesome bikes, what I need to improve on is handling as well as climbing. I know the bike doesn't make the rider better, but along those lines any input or suggestion would be would greatly appreciated.
| For a reliable race bike, the Patrol and Scout are both great choices, and I can see why you're having trouble making a decision. The Scout is a little quicker handling at slower speeds due to its slightly shorter chainstays, and the fact that it has a 67 degree head angle versus the Patrol's slacker 65 degree angle. As far as climbing performance goes, while the shorter travel of the Scout might make it feel slightly more efficient, there's really not much of a weight difference between the two bikes, which means that they feel quite similar when grinding uphill. My suggestion? Give the Smuggler, Transition's 115mm 29er a try before making a decision. If you've never tried a 29er before, or even if you have, the capabilities of a shorter travel, slack angled big wheeler may surprise you. There will be a much more noticeable difference when climbing - at speed, the bigger wheels will handily roll over just about anything in their path, and despite the reduced amount of travel it's a bike that's well suited for the tracks you'll find in the Cascadia Dirt Cup. - Mike Kazimer |
It may only have 115mm of rear travel, but the Smuggler isn't afraid to dive into rowdy terrain.
Training With a Handlebar Mounted Stopwatch
Question: Pinkbike user struc asked this question in the Downhill Forum: Does anyone train with a handlebar mounted stopwatch? If you do, what stopwatch do you use?
| For timing runs on a mountain bike, there seem to be three common choices: a DMC Moto Timer, a DRC X-Monitor or a Freelap stopwatch and timing pole system: The DMC Moto Timer is the smallest and best to 'fit and forget.' It offers basic features like 100 lap memory, fastest/slowest/average times, is waterproof and the fabric strap buttons quickly on and off the handlebar. It should be small enough to squeeze between your brake levers and grips to easily press the single button with your thumb. At $49.99 USD it's not pricey but they do seem difficult to track down nowadays. With a confusingly similar name, the DRC X-Monitor is a larger unit that can be mounted on your handlebar or stem, it uses a remote thumb button that can be placed close to the grip. The main advantage of the DRC over the DMC is the large display lets you glance at the time while still in braaaap mode, less important for downhill runs but if you are doing laps, or want to check your splits this can be handy. The X-Monitor costs around $75 USD, can record 50 laps and is waterproof. Finally, the Freelap system is the most expensive and requires a trip to the bottom of the track to place the pole. To get started you need one watch and one pole; place the pole at the finish line and use the ten-second countdown beeps on the watch to start your run. You can add as many poles as you like for a fixed start line and split times, there are a few downhill tracks that feature permanent Freelap poles so you can just take your own watch and start training. Starting from around $150 USD for a watch and $90 for one pole it's not cheap, but if you have feint friends and a pole at the top and bottom then there's no way to cut the run short of the finish line. - Paul Aston |
DMC Moto timer is a cheap and useful timing tool.
The Freelap system will hit your wallet the hardest but is great for training with friends.
Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.
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Member since Jul 22, 2013
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Left ball now stuck to ice tray :-(
Whyyyyyyyyy
www.pinkbike.com/u/mikelevy/blog/opinion-cater-to-your-weaknesses.html
One more general guideline I might throw in is that taller and/or heavier riders may want to give more consideration to the Patrol and a smaller lighter rider the Scout.
Hope that helps a bit!
I use strava to keep track of my times and miles and general data, and have used it to do back to back runs and check my perception against the 'actual' time whilst training.
Strava has been known to have gps drift issues and somewhat inaccurate results (according to the KOM hunters).
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Granted there are a couple of Enduro racers that are doing really well on 29ers. But most of the big team riders have their pick of wheel size and travel options/set ups. And though some have definitely given 29ers more than a fair chance. Most just aren't winning on them...? Obviously I'm not trying to win any races. But as long as I aspire to ride like the pro's I'll also be inspired by "what" they ride!
I'd go with the patrol personally. I bought the 2015 version, and it is by far the best bike I've ever owned. Great at climbing, killer at descending. Transition says that each bike has the same capabilities, but a different ride characteristic. So you have to decide between an slack bomber, or a quick slopestyle bike. Either bike is going to be great and you are definitely going to love it!
@TransitionBikeCompany
Oooor do the internet exercise, listen to what people say that EVERYONE MUST HAVE: buy a 35mm stem with 740+ bars (sweep angles never given by online masters of geometry). Oh... Does your bike have 1300 wheelbase, 500 reach and 90 degree seat angle? Are you running the right number of tokens in your fork? If not, that may be the first problem to solve...
For the handling, this allowed me to not over apply pressure on my inside hand when cornering or climbing out of ruts at high speed. With the handlebar rolled forward, I can manual like a boss, but I will make steering errors and have issues smoothly getting out of ruts and bumpy corners. I call rolled forward, wing tips, and it makes your application of pressure more emphasised on the very end of the bar, whether you are trying or not. With a flatter, rolled back bar, you can move your weight forward without over pressuring the ends. Try it out.
and on it goes........