Thanks to PB readers for a killer question and answer session! Want more? Contact Fox's tech center.Wonder what is in there? How to tune it? Why it was made that way? Find out for sure July 8, 2013. Don't be afraid to ask the hard questions, but keep it real - we are positive that nobody at Fox Factory will be talking about 2015.
Fox Factory throws down for an 'Ask Us Anything' session at its Headquarters in Scotts Valley, California, where the individuals who were instrumental during every step of the manufacturing process - designing, prototyping, manufacturing, tuning, testing, even packaging, will be on hand to answer your questions about Fox suspension. Opportunities such as this rarely, if ever, surface - unless you happen to be among the invited few to attend a product launch, or you are lucky enough to catch the three minutes each year when the entire crew is lounging in the pits at a World Cup event. For one day only, July 8, 2013, Fox Factory’s engineers, product managers, marketing hacks and pro tuners will be assembled at their computers, waiting to answer questions from Pinkbike members.
Team Fox Factory
Here it is; the one and only inverted DH fork that Fox Factory
produced. Fox used it to assess torsional stiffness and axle
design. Colin Meagher photo How ‘Ask Us Anything' Works:
Starting at 9:30 AM July 8, Pacific daylight time and concluding at 4:30 PM, you can type your questions into the comment box following this article and the Folks at Fox Factory will take their best shot at it. Sometimes, your answer will pop up in a few seconds; others may take a while, as the Fox crew may want to pass your query to a specific person in the organization to get a more exact answer. Everyone who posts a question, large or small, will be taken seriously. To make the process as efficient as possible, try to follow these simple guidelines:
• Keep your questions relative. For instance: If you want information about tuning, or advice on which shock is best for you, be sure to mention the bike you own, and brief personal info like your weight and riding style.
• Stay on topic. Try to keep your questions on one topic if possible. You can always ask about another item later.
• Feel free to name the person you’d like to answer you. That is exactly why Fox posted the pictures, names and job titles of each individual who will be in the hot seats today.
•
Hot about something? Fire away - this is the time and place to communicate exactly why your suspension may not have fulfilled your expectations, but try to state your problem in the form of a question so that it can be properly addressed. Constructive criticism is welcome. Haters, however, will be booted off the page by PB.
•
Use propping to acknowledge good - or not so good - questions. Bump them up or down to where they belong.
Some of the Fox team attended the birth of every product on the Fox museum's 'wall of suspension.' Colin Meagher photo
Check out the tech section at the Fox Factory site
www.pinkbike.com/news/Prototype-Fox-Air-DH-Shock-Fort-William-World-Cup-2013.html
thank you
Of course there are some good benefits with Inverted, but in MTB, the trade off's, design effort, and work-arounds to make up for the design is simply extra headache when you could just go with mtb conventional chassis and have so many inherent positives right from the start.. Such as: Lower casting arch-bridge + axle, lower/top crown VS. relying solely on a bigger heavier axle + top/lower crown, which still doesn't provide the same characteristics unless increasing weight/material by a lot.
Look at a motorcycle and how much material is used on the inv. fork/chassis/crowns/axle + the riding application of that moto bike, then, compare that to a DH bike and how much material you got while keeping everything light as possible. It just doesn't stack up the best when you take it to the MTB dh world.
You only have one benefit to offer that isn't actually a benefit? An inverted fork also offers larger legs where torsional stress is highest at the lower crown, which offsets the lack of some stupid arch. The arch broke off my casted piece of garbage 66VF & it still works fine, it's plenty stiff & never needed an arch in the 1st place with a 20 mm axle. In what world do you live where a 20 mm axle is bigger and/or heavier in an inverted fork than in a conventional? MX bikes are built to be as light as they can be too. FMXers are trying to flip & spin those things as much as they can & they already weigh 10X more than a bicycle. Weight is more critical in those situations than it is just riding down a hill. Inverted forks offer larger stanchion diameters making them stronger in all directions, more bushing overlap making them stronger, smoother, longer wearing & stiffer laterally. They are better lubricated for what I hope are obvious reasons, which means better performance & durability. They move dirt down & out rather than down & in. Their unsprung weight is lower, mud clearance is better & conventionals use poor quality magnesium castings on the lowers to keep their weight down because the strength to weight ratio of the design is inferior. The problem is that inverted forks will last longer & the greedy, corrupt bicycle industry likes to keep selling people replacement junk for their old broken down junk. Do you also go around trying to sell people on the superiority of derailleurs over gearboxes? How about the superiority of the IC engine over electrics? How about the superiority of a turd over a diamond?
2) We are talking about MTB, DH. Not the same, but please ride a Fox 40 first. I like Dorado's they are forgiving, grip well, but can distinguish the difference somewhat easily on certain terrain, under braking loads in regards to torsional stiffness. So..?
3) You are list these inv. benefits as if they weren't mentioned...I assume people know what you just said, but thanks. skimmed most of it sorta.
4) A benefit can be argued between 2 people, which is true. Maybe not benefit but different 'factors'. Stiffness was mostly focused.
5) You sell someone the superiority of something, when the other alternative is NOT applicable. You talk in a world of perfect idealism. Hey it's 2000, let me sell you the first electric car. Does not contain the optimized battery cells, no chargers at your local Safeway grocery stores, or even anywhere at that time, etc etc. GJ you sold someone, something, that in idealistic standards holds up greatly but at that time does not have the means of use or efficient operation. Or money. Or time. Or whatever. If it actually works pretty well, there is an obvious lack of need to transition.
You sound like you're confusing a lack of options and/or resistance to progress with "works pretty well". Conventional forks seem like they work pretty well because that's pretty much all that's offered & have little other competition to compare to. IC engines don't seem to work pretty well. They break all the time. They're dirty, inefficient & have reached their limits. It's an inherently inefficient process. Conventional forks designed as well as can be, are inferior & less resistant to wear & tear than inverted forks designed & refined to the same degree. When industries try to push garbage for the sake of profits on people that don't know any better you end up with an endless cycle of consuming crap. I wish they would ask themselves what good their money would be if all they could ever buy with it was nothing but junk. Designed from the start to have a finite lifespan & to always need replacement. A lack of need to transition, doesn't mean it's not a good idea to do so. I bet you like derailleurs too. Some people could be convinced to eat their own shit for their own health if enough corporate & political blowhards brought it to them on a silver platter.
We recently purchased fox float evol R and fox float 3. Here my question is how to determine the damping coefficient of the fox .( we know how much stiffness we require) and as we know the stiffness how to change the pressure according to it.
Please answer.
So why no pump when you drop a grand on a product??
Also, if you are wondering why I dont use a previous shock pump it is because I pass them on when I sell the product, I dont like to be a dick
I used to work retail for paintball and everyone wanted something for free. REALLY!! Who are you and why do you get free stuff
Go try pulling that at Walmart or somewhere else!
I've had the same shock pump for the last 3 years and, so far, it's absolutely fine and doesn't need replacing. Personally I would rather all the money I spent on a fork or shock, was spent on the fork or shock and not a pump that I wouldn't necessarily need.
1 - Increase the price (piss off the customer)
2 - Drop the pump (irritate some customers)
3 - Cut costs elsewhere in the business (e.g. Lay off some of the staff, use cheaper parts in the forks, reduce the R&D budget)
I think out of the options they had, they chose the least of all evils.
There are many riders out there that love this setup but finding the balance of a comfortable ride and fast riding fork is an ongoing challenge. We received feedback from our racers and enduro riders that although the 2013 fork is comfortable to ride, it was difficult to push hard when raced. Taking that information, we applied it to the 2014 forks and are very satisfied with the results.
Let's make the problem with the basic CTD damper (w/o trail adjust) very clear. My 'Zocchi 55CR feels dialled for most situations 'cause I can fine tune the low speed compression. Most CTD forks on the other hand will most of the time feel wrong 'cause the damping is never quite perfect. And the Fancy CTD equipped Fox costs at least 1/3 more than a 55CR. Trail Adjust luckily fixes the problem and it definitely should came with all the CTD forks.
I saved all my hard earned pennies for almost a year to buy my $4+K Bronson with a 2013 FOX CTD fork. I have too say so far I am very disappointed with the fork, honestly it is shocking how bad it is. My thoroughly thrashed 7-year old Pike is smoother and better in every way!
Not getting full travel, not enough rebound, still breaking it in but in no way can I call this a smooth operator.
Called FOX today the guy over the phone said he has never heard of the forks being low on oil and called the people on the forums idiots for suggesting as much. Everyone knows the 2013 CTD models are loaded with issues and kinks, the right thing to do is to own up and set things right. Good customer service goes a long way so does word of mouth…treat your customers right FOX!
I ride a 2013 Talas CTD 34 160mm and yes, the performance is very poor for a very expensive piece of equipment. If you are directing your customers to their local distributors, would be great if they had availability to these upgrades ASAP.
Is ther a way you can assist? Thanks.
This is a Fox fork compression fail video on Vimeo. this says a lot about the new damper problems.
I have a giant reign 2013 and I broke the rear shock, solo sports told me they can't get the correct size in to Australia. I know this is not true as they just supplied a friend with the same bike a replacement only days befor I asked. After pointing this out they still maintain that they can't sell me a shock for the reign.
Having only one supplier in Australia is not helpful, let alone one supplier that have no idea, are not rider focused and straight out rude
So they only way for me to get the parts I need was to buy them in the US and use a freight forwarder to ship them over here
Should see the new float 34s and float x tomorrow :-)
That being said, at least Fox is willing to admit that they made a mistake and are offering an option to fix the mistake - even if it costs some $$ for those of us with 2013 forks. They could have just said that they made a mistake and that you need to get a 2014 fork if you want the new tuning. That seems to be the norm in the industry instead of standing up and offering a solution.
Fox should've just told me the best bet would've been to send the fork in.
Once the weather gets bad again I'll have to send the fork, and the $35 kit that just arrived, back to Fox for service.
You lost me with this one Fox. I'm off to buy a Pike to replace my lousy 34.
An optional firm tuning adjustment is available for more aggressive damping settings on 2013 Factory and Performance CTD forks. Details on the tune adjustment:
• Increased low-speed compression damping across the board
• Firmer Climb mode
• More supportive Descend mode
• Available from FOX or authorized service centers
To modify the CTD tune, FOX or an authorized service center will change the following damper components: blowoff spring, blowoff piston, flow divider, compression piston, compression check limiter, and spring perch. Working on a FIT damper requires special service tools and will need to be performed by a FOX authorized service center.
The tune adjustment is available in the U.S. and Canada for $65 through FOX Factory service. This price is lower than what was quoted in the Pinkbike article and includes parts and labor. Please contact FOX or your dealer for local pricing information outside of U.S. and Canada.
In addition to the CTD tune, some 34 FLOAT 160 fork owners may wish to increase the compression ratio of the air spring. This can be accomplished by adding 20cc of FLOAT Fluid to the air chamber.
If anyone has any questions then please call FOX at 1-800FOX-SHOX in the U.S. or go to www.ridefox.com to find the closest service center in your country.
Is it possible that factory torque spec on the nuts at the bottom of each fork leg is too low to create a good seal? Have you considered an o-ring seal?
The lower leg oil just is not there. Seriously, why? Too poor after market checkups?
(Bill Brown) I've always ridden bikes: bmx, mountain bike, moto. I attended the college of engineering at the University of Florida where I raced XC for four years. After graduating, I worked for an aerospace and defense contractor for 11 years in Florida. There are some great trails in Florida, but it was time to move to a state with more elevation. I applied at FOX in 2010 and was stoked when I received an offer of employment. The best advice I can give you as a student is to maintain a strong GPA. We are always looking for top tier employees. Check our webpage periodically for job openings and send us a resume.
tbe.taleo.net/CH11/ats/careers/jobSearch.jsp?org=FOXRACINGSHOX&cws=1
Is that you?
If Fox is going to take a "service and lube frequently" stance on suspension repair, it would be nice from both a shop's perspective and customer perspective to have more local, timely and in a lot of cases, more affordable options for rear suspension maintenance and repair.
Is it ok to use Enduro seals on Kashima forks since the Kashima coating is supposedly more durable than the non-Kashima coating that you have previously said not to use Enduro seals on?
The original Marzocchi orange Z1 went for years of neglect with no stanchion rub. Surely the pinnacle of stanchion/seal interfaces wasn't Back In The Day.
The probe was 3mm diameter. The tool is capable of surface scan, but since I was controlling it manually I created cloud points; many of them. I was not foolish enough to let the oil grooves skew the data. I was able to repeat the result with precision considerably greater than the defect size.
Unfortunately, I have moved to another company, where they have no need for a CMM machine, otherwise I would willingly take measurements again. I did this out of interest, on someone else's fork.
But why when you have RS, Marzocchi on a comeback and people like DVO rocking up do Fox seem to want to make it harder and harder for their users to learn about their fork internals ? The support pages seemed to have been completely removed from the fox website, there are literally no details on rear shock servicing anywhere to be found other than users self made guides. And why are some "special tools" so damn expensive ? prime example is the talas 2 ifp tool. £100 last time i could actually find one and its just a football needle with a thread. compare this to the monarch IFP, Sid, marzocchi or other charging tools which are around £10.
With people like DVO and marzocchi trying to get people into playing with their fork internals is it not a bit of a poor decision to make Fox parts a mystery that only certain companies can service ?
Not only that it leads to misinformation, i have been told several things incorrectly from Fox techs in my time which doesnt really fill me with confidence in the product, even tho i appreciate this may well be just so that said company profits from servicing.
Whilst i understand the Apple approach of "if only we touch it we can guarantee it will work as intended" surely this is only putting customers at a disadvantage when it comes to service costs on what are already highly priced parts?
*Please note im not disputing the ride quality of fox products, just personally put off by high initial costs and service costs and "only the magic people" can fix it approach*
thanks for replying. Im no dealer. I just like to be able to look after my gear with out breaking the bank. The earlier service manuals were great (actually helped with a friends talas 2 issues), i just find it a bit of a shame that this hasnt been kept up to date and that rear shock guides arent provided.
In comparison RS provide guides to strip down all their products and spare part guides. As a rider thats not scared of opening up my forks/shock i find this a great advantage. Whilst i appreciate working on a fork is not for everyone its a massive consideration for me, and im sure others, on buying a product.
In fact for my latest rear shock purchase i went for an RS monarch on the basis that i knew how easily replacement parts were to source, the cost of most of the parts, i could find the required tools (shock vises) to fix the unit should i need to and i could see the rough tuning id need just by visiting their service pages.
Just as feedback id highly recommend providing such information, as those that want to know it will at least make an informed attempt to service their kit and those that cant be bothered/ dont have time or interest wont even go looking for it.
I know im only one person and you guys have to consider the whole market but just to have the guides and parts lists even if i have to go through 1 disti to get them i think you'd get a lot more people on board.
paperwork to prove it was getting serviced.
I have been working on my own forks wqith zero concerns for the last 7 yrs so I have no such paperwork. I have a fork that is slowly wearing itself out and there is nothing I can do to fix it? What do I need to do to help get this situation warrantied
tbe.taleo.net/CH11/ats/careers/jobSearch.jsp?org=FOXRACINGSHOX&cws=1
Fox was always a top pick for it's wide range of adjustments, sad to see the RC2 so scarce on the other models.
If packaging on a 34 is tricky for RC2, just make some 36's then. The little weight difference is worth the trade off in rigidity and performance. Just market it that way
I would personally like to see the RC2 cartridge find it's way into a 140mm 29 Float as I am finally making the 29er switch as I am more focused on XC/Enduro type riding in my age.
Thanks for being brave enough to put yourselves up to this type of public abuse, I can only hope that positive things will come as a result from the feedback, negative or not. Remember, customers who buy your equipment are savvy and require the utmost of performance from your suspension. Please continue to captivate that market.
what is the reality of "lowers service" intervals for Fox forks
in the past I have stuck to the suggested (and very short time scale) intervals for servicing lowers on all of the Fox forks I have owned (numerous pairs of 32, 36, 40) and rarely found any evidence of dirt ingress, contamination, seal damage or lubrication oil breakdown, and this is living in the UK riding regularly in mud / rain
-I am doing my forks more harm following these strict timescales for lowers servicing (it cannot do the pumper rod threads or fork seals any good to be pulling apart the fork regularly?)
-than if I just regularly clean the exterior of the fork whilst washing the bike, and then apply some dry chain lube or silicon spray to the stanchions (then pumping the fork and wiping excess off with clean rag) to keep the seal lips clean and lubricated? And then following a less frequent "lowers service" routine?
what would you guys at Fox recommend?
thanks for the reply, I am just trying to get a handle on service intervals
as a professional bike mechanic (workshop manager) working in a store regularly selling £6,500+ bikes, I am all about doing quality work
of course, we get the JRA customers who do not service their fork or rear shock in 2-3 years and seem surprised at requiring CSU or Air Can replacement during the 1st suspension service after these 2-3 years when their suspension eventually breaks down
but for experienced wrenches like myself, its hard getting a handle on what is actually needed, compared to what the official service intervals actually are!
another question for Fox. What impact do the current (and perhaps over-aggressive) bike cleaning products have on your forks and shocks?
the CSU on my Fox 32 Evo 29'er fork was thankfully replaced FOC by your excellent UK distributor Mojo only 8 months into ownership after the dreaded "braking creak" reared its head
I had an informing conversation with Mojo about this issue, and was told that use of bike cleaning products can leach away the assembly grease used between stanchions and crown during CSU assembly, causing an annoying but non-structural (not safety) clicking noise under heavy pedaling loads or use of the front disc brake
the problem I have is that my muddy bike requires regular washing, and I have never used aggressive cleaning products (only warm soapy water as recommended by Shimano and KMC for their drivetrains).
once the 1 year warranty is void on my Fox fork, I am looking at paying £250+ for a new CSU once the grease leaches out of the CSU like last time? As a professional bike mechanic I cannot face riding a bike that has clicking or creaking noises!
any recommendations for cleaning or servicing that will help promote the durability of the CSU?
thanks for the information, I will make sure to stay away from "Muck-Off" and those products in the future
Are you working on making CSU's that do not creak? I had a lyrik for 2 years and not a squeak, Had a Fox 36 for 6 months and the stantions started to creak in the crown.
What makes it so difficult to produce and market an Inverted design? weight? cost? torsional stiffness? ...we all like your inverted dh fork, which makes the Dorado looks gay
How do you reconcile basically designing a line of forks to make riders who are asking for a squishy ride "cause they bought a full-suspension bike" with being a "high performance company"?
Any tip to reduce the stinction of the new fox 40 air ? Also If someone want to buy another rate negative spring where can he find it ?
And something last , can the 40 float be converted to coil ? From where should we get the parts ?
Thanks
my legs to loosen it and then re-torqued it and it felt 100% better. So smooth now! Thanks for the tips!
Fox you guys rock, after living in Japan I was able to get my float fully rebuilt by the Fox guys in the Tokyo area for under $200 sent up and back from Okinawa. I have always loved the Fox lineup for front forks, although I did notice that in 100+ degree weather with saltwater rolling down jungle trails they wear quite a bit faster compared to the mountain terrain. I hope to fully test your equipment living in Europe for the next year. Just wanted to say thanks guys for the amazing customer service and hope to beat the crap out of your equipment for another couple years.
-Colt
I am wondering if this is something that you are looking at for future releases - I love the performance but really dislike the creaking - even if it is not dangerous, I am paying over a grand every year for new forks and would prefer they didn't creak.
2 - Fox make high quality, high performance products. If you want a low performance product don't buy Fox! With regards to your comments on 'more flex' they actually reduced the stiffness of the chassis for the 2014 40s compared to the 2013 and earlier 40s to add a bit of the compliance/comfort you desire. The cost of bringing a fork to market must be HUGE and it doesn't make any sense to bring a substandard (compared to a traditional 40) fork to market, when it has a high risk of being unprofitable - all it would do is compete with the normal 40 and possibly damage Fox's reputation for making high end forks. Finally, a big part of Fox's R&D program is to stick the fork under the some of fastest (and arguably best) riders in the world. If they've already said they prefer the regular 40, they're going to have a hard time testing an inverted model.
1. will you release an inverted fork? is there a project running on that?
2. do you believe that air can substitute effectively coil in dh use? how come you do it in a fork? what about a shock?
3. name 2-3 advice on keeping fork and shock in top notch condition.
4. what is your opinion in electronic suspension?
5. do you believe that carbon eventually will replace some/all parts in suspension forks?
6. what do you drink while working?
7. ever been to greece?
2. Yes, air springs work very well in DH racing with proper tuning and design. As you may have seen, we are currently developing and testing DH Air shocks in our RAD race program.
3. Clean your fork regularly and put a very light film of oil on the Uppertube exterior. Adjust your compression settings for the trails and conditions you are riding that day. Check that your rebound setting is not to slow.
4. I think electronic suspension could be a great advantage and we are looking at in the future.
5. Carbon fiber makes sense on some of the suspension fork parts, but threads, cost and material wear points will make it likely that it is on limited internal parts.
6. Straight up black coffee in the morning and water in the afternoon.
7. I have never been to Greece, but I would like to go there in the near future.
Thanks ahead of time, question coming from another Product Design Engineer, curious about the bike industry.
It seems to me that you missed a trick here....Fox 34 with 20mm - less flexi than 32 -less weight than 36..
Fox 34 with 15mm - less flexi than 32-less weight than 36 but MORE flex....
Last week I took it out for a few more rides and have continuously had to remove pressure from the front in an attempt to get all of the travel. I live in Santa Barbara and ride decently fast, weigh 140# and still can't get the last 1.5" out of my fork. I've gotten to the point where I've reduced the air pressure in the fork to the point where it's starting to feel divey and under sprung.
Additionally the high speed compression damping on the shock feels really rampy/sharp in the beginning of travel when hitting rocks/jumps in the trail. The bike almost feels like a hardtail. It's not that the bike is rebounding quickly after moving through travel, it feels like the bike isn't compressing at all during fast small hits. Also, going off of drops, the rear feels like it has too much high speed rebound damping. To compensate I've had to run almost no low speed rebound (2 clicks on) which makes the bike more bouncy and prone to understeer.
Any suggestions/ideas? I've heard the new negative spring in the fork is too stiff for lighter riders to get full travel, any plans to help those of us who don't weigh 180#?
Thanks~
THIS!
My local trails have a few rock gardens and big drops/gaps but the trails are mainly smaller flowing jumps with berms, and I weigh 11 stone so I'd like advice on how to setup the shock to cope with both rough rocks/big impacts and smooth berms and flat sections please
Thanks
How often should a fork and shock be serviced? I live in Canada and it would be expensive to mail my suspension to the states? I have a 36 Float, 36 Talas, and DHX rc4 and 2
Thanks
Service interval information can be found on our website here - www.ridefox.com/service.php?m=bike&ref=servicehome
Our service center in Canada is Outdoor Gear Canada -
ph +1.514.332.1320
www.ogc.ca
1. Is this something you recommend?
2. Do any of your / your RAD team / world cup riders do this?
3. Would (do) you ever pre-charge your products with nitrogen?
4. Are there any considerations to be made regarding product setup/maintenance when using nitrogen?
1. Your not going to damage anything by using Nitrogen instead of air
2. None of our athletes currently run nitrogen in their air springs.
3. All shock IFP (internal floating piston) chambers are charged with Nitrogen.
4. No special considerations to setup when using Nitrogen
Why do you think that in some cases, Fox forks suffer in terms of durability and robustness compared to some of your competitors? Reflected by your 30 hour service interval Vs. Marzocchi's 3 year unlimited warranty period with no service stipulations?
and this with no apparent loss in performance? (if a little heavier)
I appreciate that fork design is very much a compromise but the difference between your recommendations and thus warranty stipulations and some of your competitors is truly massive.
thanks
Josh
Cheers
Tom
On the topic of the Dyad, can the negative air spring be used to fine-tune the suspension characteristics, or should it always be set as you described in your reply? What are the performance effects of higher and lower negative air with the same positive air setting?
Last week I took it out for a few more rides and have continuously had to remove pressure from the front in an attempt to get all of the travel. I live in Santa Barbara and ride decently fast, weigh 140# and still can't get the last 1.5" out of my fork. I've gotten to the point where I've reduced the air pressure in the fork to the point where it's starting to feel divey and under sprung.
Additionally the high speed compression damping on the shock feels really rampy/sharp in the beginning of travel when hitting rocks/jumps in the trail. The bike almost feels like a hardtail. It's not that the bike is rebounding quickly after moving through travel, it feels like the bike isn't compressing at all during fast small hits. Also, going off of drops, the rear feels like it has too much high speed rebound damping. To compensate I've had to run almost no low speed rebound (2 clicks on) which makes the bike more bouncy and prone to understeer.
Any suggestions/ideas? I've heard the new negative spring in the fork is too stiff for lighter riders to get full travel, any plans to help those of us who don't weigh 180#?
Thanks~
A man can dream cant he?
OK make a kash ima version for a thousand bucks as well
that was the old Rockshox Pike 454 fork...loved that fork, abused the hell out of it on my 2 different Banshee Rampant builds and it never let me down once
- What Finite software are you guys using, and how close are your actually failures compared to simulated/estimated failures?
- How often are you comparing competitor's products to your own?
- What time of day do animals usually attack the Watsonville facility?
- I've heard that you do binning for the size of the fork bushings, is that only for how they fit into the lowers, or are those matched up with upper crown assemblies as well?
- Sorry, no images of our production tooling are available. I can tell you the tooling is impressive - several tons of hardened tool steel that's roughly the size of a kitchen oven that fits in a die cast machine that's the size of a school bus.
- For FEA we use Mechanica and Comsol. Models typically take 8+ hours to run.
- We are always monitoring the competitive landscape
- Chubacabarra attacks after midnight.
- Our lower leg assembly goes through a proprietary process to achieve the proper fit between bushing and crown assembly. Lower legs and crown assemblies are interchangeable.
is this correct?
Firstly (It could be the west coast of Canada distributors) why doesn't Fox stock Ti rear springs to sell directly to customers like Cane Creek and Marz.
Secondly do you plan on updating the DHX rear shock to have a high and low speed rebound similar to a cane creek double barrel or are you content with just the one rebound speed only?
Lastly I have a new kashima DHX RC4 that feels great and has no inconsistencys with dampening or anything, however the first initial bit of stroke when moved through the travel very abruptly/violently makes a squeak.. I'm racing every weekend and don't really have time to send it of to be assessed. Thoughts?
Also I must admit Fox Rear Shox have been the most consistent and durable for me far superior over the vivid coil and airs I've used and repeatedly blown up in the past so thank you!
I do not mean to be rude but if the forks/shocks need servicing every 30 hours then its gets really expensive for anyone who cannot do this at home. If you can design a seal or lower that either stops all contaminants or has ports (bleeding oil or grease etc) then you will have the market. Other manufacturers should also do this but I only think marzocchi have made forks that can be ridden for over 3 months and they work in all conditions faultless of performance without a service (up to 2007 anyhow).
Stop buying cheap tack from Taiwan and design some well engineered seals and parts so that your products have the value factor.
Ok, il ask a more direct question. Will you ever bring into production a fork and rear shock that are not designed for racing but rather manufactured for the customer who prefers "fit and forget". A bit like .....the new phone, the galaxy s4. It's great it does everything but then they bring out an 'active' version that's waterproof, tougher etc. will you be making a tougher, more robust cheaper line up in the future? I can appreciate that you specialise in racing shocks and you may prefer to leave these areas for SRAM to cash in on.
Cheers and keep up the good work.
Who could I speak with about expanding FOX service to Panama? My partners and I are serious about bikes and would love to able to offer this service to our clients at our new (IMBA built) bike park about to open next week!
1a) Can the Talas Cartridge be upgraded to the new 2014 design?
1b) If so, Is the new cartridge available now for aftermarket purchase?
2) My fork is creaking where the crown meets the stanchion on the non-drive side... I assume I just send in my fork and you guys replace it under warranty?
(I definitely like your products, and keep up the good work. Sorry if this question has been asked. I did my best to find anything similar but it is a loooong list of questions.)
2. Is "hydrodynamic bushing technology" your marketing name for poor manufacturing tolerances? My RockShox Lryik has no stiction and no bushing play, as opposed to my 2012 Fox 36 Float FiT.
3. Why does my 36 Float with Kashima stanchions have more stiction than my wife's entry level RockShox Recon?
4. How did you guys not catch the bath oil migration any sooner?
5. What were you guys thinking when you released CTD?
6. Why can't Fox bring back the Vanilla? Not all of us are pretentious weight weenies
7. Why does Fox keep doing model years? It's supremely annoying
A general sag recommendation on the rear would be 25-30% but please consult Giant's recommendation.
Generally speaking, a firmer spring set up with lighter damping will provide a more lively/snappy feel while a lighter spring with more damping (assuming you don't push it too far) will provide a softer more planted feel. Experimenting with different set ups can be a great learning experience and we do it with our athletes all the time. The right set up is up to you and which best meets your needs and riding style.
We fully developed and tested an inverted DH fork with our racers. The response from all of our racers was that they strongly preferred the conventional fork for its stiffness in cornering and holding the line. We developed axles with 3 different levels of stiffness; in all cases the conventional fork out-performed the inverted fork. We retired this fork from the RAD program. The picture above shows the inverted fork in the new FOX museum in Scotts Valley CA.
Like the pros suggested: Yes, get the new shock for the new bike.. But, in the mean time, I'd suggest selling the DHX air and getting an RP23. If you buy a used shock, it won't be that much of a price difference, but you'll feel the improvement. It would be worth the $100 or so price difference. Or, just get the Float X and put your old shock back on when you sell it. Either way, you'll be stoked.
Thanks for your time
Mark
I have set the sag and have the correct spring installed.
Thanks
"Descending proved that, for Santa Cruz Bikes at least, Fox has implemented changes in its 34 Float CTD fork's damping and spring rates to eliminate the mushy feel in compression and brake dive that the original model often suffered from."
On the other hand, Santa Cruz sends the bronson with 150 mm of travel in the Fox Float, how can I change it to 160 mm and where can I order the necessary parts.
Thanks!
about DH fork suspension, is it advisable to change fork oil weights in the cartridge to adjust damping?
if ever can you help me what will be the effect to low/hi speed compression and rebound.. pros and con of using thicker than stock and thinner than stock... "please and thank you"s..
Oil viscosity has the greatest impact on the low speed orifice circuits (rebound and compression). The viscosity of the oil effects when flow chokes at the orifice. Once flow at the orifice chokes the valves on the piston open (controlling damping at the higher shaft speeds). The thinner the fluid the higher the shaft speed required to achieve choke flow at the orifice and vice versa. Valves are relatively unaffected by oil viscosity. Another aspect to consider is fade. As oil temperature increases it gets thinner. Typically, the viscosity of a thinner oil is more stable over temperature and, therefore, less susceptible to fade.
Think of the CTD adjuster as a low-speed compression adjuster- because that is what it is. Run the Climb mode when you want a lot of low-speed compression damping - climbs, sprints, fire roads. The Trail setting has a moderate amount of low-speed compression damping and works best as an all-around tune for varying conditions, going up and down. The Descend mode has a light low-speed damping tune for the best bumps absorption in rugged terrain.
Thanks!
So if the spring is on the softer side, would I just use a bit more low speed compression damping to keep it higher in it's travel?
I've never been completely happy with the small bump performance of the fork and am wondering if you would recommend anything to help with this? I've tried running 0 low speed compression damping, lower air pressure, etc., but at the point where it starts to absorb small bumps the brake dive is overwhelming.
When the fork was under warranty I sent it to OGC. They said it was fine and just rebuilt it with the new seals, which helped a bit, but the small bump vs brake dive problem was still there.
Thanks!
I am currently trying to get into downhill/freeride. my local trails have some pretty big drops and jumps. I also go up to ski resorts such as highland and am wondering if a 180 or your fox 40's would be better for me. I way around 160-170 if that helps at all and almost 5-8ish.
it would be great if you could reply to this
Jake
I'm having bottom out issues with my rear Fox Float CTD Boostvalve. I'm a larger rider 235 LB full kit and I'm on the aggressive side riding a 2013 Giant Trance x29 Zero. I have been playing with the PSI on the shock and I have it up to 280PSI now. As I'm moving up in PSI i'm loosing small bump compliance as expected but I have yet to find a happy place where I won't go blowing through the last part of the travel. I have been running the shock in trail mode to combat bottoming out too fast but that isn't doing much either. Had the shock seal kit service done a couple week ago just in-case with no change.
I'm on on the wrong equipment? Do I just need to add more air? Do I need volume spacers?
service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm
www.ridefox.com/contact.php?r=worldwide&ref=topnav
Also, what is the approximate ratio of cawfee to tea drinkers at FOX HQ?
I’ve a specialized demo 8 bike (2011 edition) in which I changed the rear shock from Van RC to DHX RC4 (Kashima). Now, in the demos, there goes a longer rebound screw, and because of this I took the one from the Van RC and I’ve put it into the DHX RC4.
What I did was, I loosened up the screw at the end of that yellow tube (damper?), which made it possible for me to take out the rebound screw and put in the longer one. After I’ve put that in, I screwed it back together and reassembled it.
Now, my problem is that there is no enough rebound. What did I do wrong?
Thanks!
I have question on what other possible tuning options there are for a Fox Van 36 180. I am not having much luck getting a good ride form the fork especially at higher speed with increasing bump sizes. I have stiffened the front and rear dampening to compensate for spring rate changes. The limiting factor seems to be lack of enough spring rates from mid stork onwards and a stiffer spring is not an option for either ends. Increasing HSC helps but it is not enough. Is it possible to increase the oil level to increase the progression? Calculations show a low increase in overall air pressure with a 3-4 cu-in increase in oil. Open to suggestions.
Bike: Large 2013 Specialized Enduro Evo Expert
Fork: Fox Van 36 180 – Yellow spring, 6-7 rebound/ LSC 9/HC8, 20% sag
Shock: CCDB 650 lb/in, 30% sag
Height /Weight: 6’3” @ 240 lbs
Riding style: 60% downhill, 40% all mountain @ Intermediate/advanced level
(front or rear) tends to blow through the travel unless the small bump sensitivity is compromised with an over sprung air can.
FOX Isolated Technology (FIT) refers to our sealed damping cartridges, which all Factory and Performance forks use.
The Factory CTD Adj damper features three on the fly low-speed compression settings with two addition settings to fine tune the Trail mode. It offers more adjustments on the shock than the previous designs and similar adjustments on the fork with better on the fly access. Between the Trail with fine tune adjustments and the Descend mode, you can achieve the same low-sped damping settings as our previous design with better on the fly access.
Should we change the CTD naming on the 831 to something else? - really, it's just a low-speed compression adjuster.
You probably are paying too much for auto insurance. Try bundling it with renter or home insurance- it helps.
I have a 2006 36 Talas R that I upgraded to an RC2 damper. The Talas 1 system does not work properly to adjust the travel. Do you still sell the tool to add air to the IFP for this system? Is there any other cartridge that I could install into this fork? I would like the ability to lower the travel of the fork if a new cartridge were installed.
Nikos Maniatopoulos S.A. »
ph +30.2610.993045
They can help you get the long rebound knob needed to fit the Demo 8.
I just built a new S-works Enduro with a 2013 Kashima Fox Float 34mm 160 factory fork- brand new. It was recently announced that the Fox 2014 version has a far superior cartridge which offers better performance for harder riding. Since I just spent a not insignificant amount of money on it - is it worth spending more on the fork to upgrade it to 2014 spec??
John
Anything i should specifically look at?
I just bought a brand spankin new Specialized Carve Pro which came with one of your CTD forks. Unfortunately for me, after purchasing it and putting some hours on it, I have found that my fork, is actually not as great as i thought it would be, and a feature that had sounded great in the shop (CTD) is actually a total burden to the performance of my fork.
I have heard you are a company that stands behind your product, so please enlighten me as to what steps I should take to get the xc trail performance that I want from my Fox product.
Thanks for your time eh!
Since your forks are fairly expensive and seem to wear through quickly without proper maintenance, what do you recommend as the best way to properly maintain your fork? I live in the Northwest and it rains a lot here; I ride at least 5 times a week generally in the rain during the winter and occasionally in the summer. Assuming those conditions, what should I do to service my fork and how often should I service it to protect it as long as possible?
Thank You
I'm 13 years old and race DH. I only weigh 103lbs but I ride pretty aggressive. I had an RC4 8.75 x 2.75 and ran a 250 x 2.8 spring but it only gave me about 20% sag on my Specialized Status. So, I ended up switching to a RS Vivid Air. When will you guys have a DH air shock or make a lighter spring for Groms?
Thanks!
Having a issue with knocking in the left air leg of my 2011 36 rlc. The fork was bought new in late 2012. Carried out a oil change service as advised by mojo, which cured the problem untill I took it for one ride and the knocking is back. Spoke to mojo and they said it won't be the bushings.
Any idea what might get rid of the knocking? Or is this just a common problem with your air forks?
Never had this problem on my 2008 36 van's.
Cheers
Still love your products.
Thanks
Two men are found dead in a room, there is a table and 53 Bicycles on the floor. What happened to the men?
...So, what's the skinny on fat?
I'm in AK and I've got a fatbike that could really use a bit o' squish in the summer...there's only about 10,000 of us in this boat...
www.ridefox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/012/Content/Rear_Shocks/2012FLOATfactory.html
30 hours is the bath oil service recommendation for forks. Air sleeve maintenance should also be done at that same 30 hour interval and that includes replacement rather than just cleaning of the air seals. You will need one additional o-ring that does not come as part of the standard air sleeve rebuild kit. The standard air seal kit is part number 803-00-142. The additional o-ring for DRCV shocks is part number 029-08-093.
First off I'm not looking to bash your product in anyway, I absolutely love your products. I've ridden many types of suspension set ups and I enjoyed the fox line up the most, currently on a van, last bike was on 40s and a 5.0. I was just wondering why your warranty on your products was how it is. I purchased a brand new 2012 factory 40 last season and put it on my shocker. After about 2 rides from when I had it the lowers were punctured on a ride. I know it happened when riding and your warranty didn't support that, but I just found it odd and possibly defective? it was not a bad crash or anything I dropped my bike and a hole was put right through the left side of the lowers. I tried contacting you guys at the time but never got anything back. If you could pm me on this aspect that would be awesome!
Thanks alot, still loving the products
also how much would it cost for a 2014 improved talas air spring assembly ?
Mark
1.why only one service point for each country?
2. How do you choose it and what if existing one is crap (thats what my customers says)
People keep asking me to service they ox forks but i do not have enough info and suport from yo u(not being official service point) I want to do it properly not DIY-style
3. How can i make my customers happy. They don't want to hear about a service point in Warsaw and i can't relly do it for them, exept basic servicing.
Do not get me wrong. I like guys at cult-bikes.com (fox service in poland) but why don't you give people a chance to choose the shop they do the whole bike servicing. Cheers for reply and all the best with your grate products. M
-Cheers
While we're at it, I might as well ask the same questions about my DHX Air 5.0 that came with the frame.
Thanks guys!
In addition, you might try flipping your spring entirely to try to see if the section that is bowing outward might be better located at the bottom around the spring guide.
What would you AMAZING people recommend for the coil and general trail compression settings for a person of my weight?
Also, what is you favorite coffe bean for espresso? Mine is Verve which is roasted in Santa Cruz.
You force me to go to the competition for a stiffer fork...
My stock Jekyll came with a 2012 32 Talas 150 and when I called Fox to purchase another fork which would suit m needs better (at a higher price point no less) I was told that you wouldn't help get into a 1.5 steerer fork?
Cannondale told me that I must call you and you just turned me away... Why not get a 1-1/8 steerer & a reducer you ask?
Ok well here it is...
Why would I?
The bike was engineered with a 1.5 headset, & when I asked Cannondale if using a reduvpcer would void my waranty shold something happen they said "Yes it definiately could! Anytime you stray from the engineered spec you could be giving up your right to a warranty repair."
Ok so you make the product for another model Jekyll but I am nit allowed to purchase it ANYWHERE.
I prefer to ride Fox but seems that Fox prefer I ride something else?
Best regards'
-Mike
Thanks in advance and sorry about my terrible english.
Sincerely, Luiz
And does Fox plan on producing a line of forks with preload, rebound, high speed and low speed compression adjustments like the original van 36 and 40's?
im 90 kg im currently using a 300 Ti RCS spring on my RC4(2012 non kashima)..
And concerning forks..I work on a bike shop and we have a lot of fox forks that even brand new need to be serviced directly because they just dont work... happens with some shocks too... you forks used to be very high quality..too bad the quality is not fully there anymore..
With the growing popularity of high volume air shocks (Vivid Air, Void, DB Air and Swinger) are there any plans from fox to produce a shock that also has the super high volume and "linear" spring rate to compete? Or do you plan on only sticking to a beefed up enduro platform for downhill?
In addition, the Race Dept is exploring the use of an air shock for downhill applications. Pinkbike spotted it at Fort Bill:
www.pinkbike.com/news/Prototype-Fox-Air-DH-Shock-Fort-William-World-Cup-2013.html
2) I always have oil mark on the rod after a ride (unlike my previous 2012 DHX RC2), is it normal ?
3) Do you have predefined tunings according to bike/weight/... ? (Lapierre DH 2012 / 62kg (137lbs) / spring of 350) / meduim level of riding)
On the flipside, I try my friend's fork with a blue Ti spring and his 40 feels nice and supple, hitting the bumps feels much more rounded off compared to the "jagged edge" feeling of my fork.
Does that mean the "correct spring for rider weight" isn't necessarily all that for all cases?
Im riding a rocky flatline and im 260lbs and im cannont find any set-up guide for my Rc4.. Can you help me please??
Im riding in east cost in bromont quebec can, and im prefer technical trail (Rocky, roost and loose terrain)
Very appreciated
I always seem to struggle with shock set up and generally find whatever eventually works does not equate to Fox's set up guide.
Can you work to improve your set up guides and explanations? Also, if you were to suggest external set up help,, what would it be? (Please don't tell me forums and google searching).
Thanks
I've noticed a little oil? on and around the bottom out bumper, should I be concerned??? Or is it ok for a few more months???
Is it possible to get more stroke out of the shock, or do I need to try and find one that will do the job??? Honestly, I know I need a bigger bike for the type of bike park riding I do... Thanks!!!
i have to keep it a lil hard so it wont bottom out as easy. do to it being a single pivot it spikes at the end of the travel. any tuning tips
like valve, new piston, more fluid ect? just want it to ramp up more at the end and have more small bump compliance. thank you guys very much. hope get more of your guys product some day. hoping to get shocks for my jeep some day!
service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/QuickTech/FloatAirSpringSpacerProc.htm
I currently have a 2011 Float 36 R 160mm on my AM bike and at 80kg am struggling to use more than 120mm of the travel at 65psi. If I drop to about 40psi but then I use all of it but the brake-dive is intolerable. I've got some heavier oil on its way to try to slow down the compression so I can hopefully run low pressure with less dive but the next step might be to shorten the air piston rod to make things more linear and hopefully use more travel at higher pressures. I guess you'll say to avoid this but the forks are out of their warranty period and the procedure seems OK. Could you recommend how much to shorten it by? 10-30mm seems to be the consensus, and if the result isn't good then I could always just add more Float Fluid in the air chamber to reduce the volume again, right? I might think of an RC2 damper conversion next year but cash won't allow that right now!
Thanks.
I love your products! Really don't know what to say just let you know that i'm a big Fox fan!
just suspension as it is is just cool technique, 1.000.000 ways of tuning, fork oil smells sweet, and it's a precise job
3
I have a set of 2010 FOX 40 RC2s, (and love them BTW :-) ) but I have a slight issue with them. The lower nut on the spring side doesn't want to tighten up. After doing an oil change, seal change etc, everything goes back together nicely, but when I go to tighten that nut, it snugs up a little bit, and then the bolt starts turning with it at about 20 inch lbs. I know that I'm not cross threading, so why would the bolt turn with the nut? So far, it has not been an issue, (no oil leaking etc.) but since you guys are the people that manufactured it, I figured I might as well ask you!
Thanks,
Matt
I have 2012 Fox Float, which came with my bike. I had various problems, from CSU cracking to lame work. Cracking was fixed with new CSU (for some time, and now it's cracking again), lame work was fixed with proper service and replacing one part that was factory problem. The problem that I really want to solve is this www.youtube.com/watch?v=82EnncJ8DXU
My fork has one step, which sounds like spring. It was on service over 50 days in total (about 5 times), whole left side is replaced (after 2 months waiting for that parts to come in LBS) and the problem is still here. Fork is under warranty, but your dealer here obviously have problem with solving this problem.
I have tried Fox from 32 to 40, from 80 to 180 (actually 200, but it rhymes ), from 2006 to 2013 CTD and none had this weird sound and step in its trail.
I've already had my first Fox 34 Float replaced under warranty for a creaking CSU this winter, second (and current one) is good (knocks on wood). Question is, does the 2 years warranty start over again for the CSU with this new fork?
Cheers
If not What is best set up?
The reason for me building my own frames is that most frames on the market can not be retro fitting with a sealed drive which is my main project
www.pinkbike.com/video/218538
Hope to have new clip soon that does not sound like a bag of spanners
Here's a link to our worldwide service centers
www.ridefox.com/contact.php?r=worldwide&ref=topnav
Mark
I have 36 180 float lowered to 170 in my Pivot Firebird. I got all the stuff dialed in pretty well but because im quite heavy guy (108kg) theres serious brake dive. HSC is set to 5 clicks and LSC to 9. If i put more lsc theres not enough sensitivity and ride is way too harsh. Any good ideas?
Thanks
Dominic.
United Kingdom (atv,bike,moto,snow)
Mojo Suspension Hoodoo Ltd. »
ph +44.1633.615.815
I'm running a DHX 5.0 Air on the back of my 2010 Reign X, which I bought 2nd hand not so long ago (ridden it 4 times) The original owner was an XC rider who wanted to dabble in Dh like riding, but I don't know how long he rode it nor how hard. It was hanging in a LBS for a full year before I bought the frameset from him.
Now - I'm a big lad (220lb, no gear) and I have been running it with max PSI in both the main & piggy back chamber, and the bottom out damper is fully screwed in (no lines showing) but I'm still blowing through all the travel, even on small hits and trips around the parking lot.
Could it just be a case of the shock needing to be "bedded in", or could it be a seal issue? The Pro Pedal works, as does rebound adjustment.
I'm just wondering if it needs a bleed (potentially) or if I am too heavy for the shock itself, and need to either put a smaller air can on, or put additional oil in the chamber (thereby reducing the compressible matter in the chamber itself, giving a more progressive shock)?
The shock itself his the model with the propedal switch (on/off) rather than the propedal dial (1/2/3)
Counting clicks from closed (all the way clockwise), can you give me suggestions for LSC/HSC/REBOUND. I ride east coast stuff, loose over hard pack, chunder, rock gardens for miles. In terms of particulars, I'm finding it hard to carry speed over the rock armor trails that are too long to jump over. Rock armor being a trail with large flatish rocks embedded in to the dirt to prevent erosion. If it comes down to it, I'm looking for numbers to go fast, not be comfortable.
WEIGHT vs. STIFFNESS: 34 will be the lighter all-mountain option (about 200g lighter), but 36 will be a stiffer option.
DAMPER SELECTION: The 34 chassis has CTD and the 36 comes with RC2. The RC2 gives you more fine tuning, but less adjust-ability on the fly.
TRAVEL ADJUST: The TALAS travel adjust system gives you the option to change the geometry of your ride for climbing or descending.
A '14 34 Talas is a great option for bigger wheeled bikes because the new Talas air spring can be ridden in the short travel or long travel mode. This allows better control of the handlebar height- many 29er riders are using the short travel mode for quicker handling for most riding and then switching to the long travel mode for steep descents.
Mark
How do you manage your cross-functionality and interchangeability of parts between years/models of forks/shocks?
Just because your current trend/crop of "pro enduro racers" want the lightest most efficient fork they can survive on in an enduro race does not mean that this is the best or most enjoyable fork to ride for the majority of the riders and racers out there.
Thanks
-A once loyal VAN36 rider, and now quite happy on the Marzocchi 55RC3Ti
i presume how to do all this is on your website?
thanks
My bike is an 2009 Stumpjumper FSR. The shock is a 2012 RP23 with Adaptive Logic and Kashima (it's high volume, but would I be better with a low volume can?). I weight about 170lbs with gear and I mainly do trail/all mountain riding.
Thanks for any help you can give me guys!
I've only ridden light all mountain trails and only like 3 times.
Thanks
Outdoor Gear Canada »
ph +1.514.332.1320
Thanks!!!!
I recently came across some PUSH "reducers" for my Fox RP23 DRCV SHOCK.... they are supposed to reduce the bottoming out while allowing the rider to use a softer setting, or simply add less pressure to the shock. My question is, are they safe to install and use without causing any damage ? . Since my shock is very restricted to Trek it's are very hard to come by products that are FOX/DRCV(trek) related I don't really know what to think. Also Lower the prices ha just kidding, thanks for putting that amount of thought and tech into the products.
I assume you're referring to the main air sleeve o-ring? If you're using a standard FLOAT rebuild kit the main air sleeve o-ring is not compatible with DRCV. You'll need FOX P/N 029-08-093, which is not part of the kit.
Weight is 205 with gear
What would you say for the settings for 180 Talas and for dhx rc4 (also what spring rate) I feel like the bike sits lower with the new link but seems to be in the range for sag (currently have a 450 spring on it)
Hi compression, low compression, bottom out psi etc...
I dig how well its set up now except for braking bumps (still feels a bit harsh through those sections)
Thanks for doing this q&a btw
Mainly for Bryan Anderson I guess. Will fox ever design an open bath style fork? All my open bath zokeys required servicing about 1 every 12 months. I liked this for UK riding. Don't get me wrong my Fox forks are waaay lighter and perform great but the current designs are not that hot for UK (Scotland) riders in terms of servicing life.
2: I read that I should do an air can service on my rear float every 15 hours. I like to do the odd 24 hour race - Is it ok to do this now and again on my float shock?
3: I have a new Fox Evolution Series 32 Float w/CTD that came on my Trek Stache. Its a lot of fun but the CTD seems to have 3 options (C:lock out T:work ok but a touch soft D: Blow through the travel.) I have the correct air pressure in the spring leg. What can I do to improve this performance? In the C position there is a bit of a clunk when I squish the fork through a weight shift. Is this normal?
I recently purchased a Fox CTD 34 for my bike, but you guys have updated the internals and i think it is the right move. But i cant help wondering why don't you guys offer the upgrade with a special price for customers which already owns the previous product so that it will not cost so much to the consumer?
Can i install a CTD remote onto the Float X CTD and Fox 34 Talas 29er Fork? Is there any special care for kashima coating?
Will the current RC2 damper be fully compatible in its current tune?
After switching the Talas lever back to full travel, whilst riding, will the fork elongate back to full travel any quicker than with current Talas? (my wheelies aren't always sustained long enough when breathless on the crest of a hill for my fork to drop fully!! )
Do all Fox staff learn to do wheelies long enough for their Talas forks to drop?
I have a bike that has a non-tapered 1.5" headtube (29er hardtail), and would it be possible to put a Fox 32 100 with a tapered steerer on my bike using a particular headset or spacer set? I'm pretty sure this wouldn't work, but just making sure!
Thanks
Yes, you can put a new fork on a bike that has a non-tapered 1.5" head tube. You just need to get a new headset.
The Cane Creek guys are pretty helpful with this sort of thing- here's some info I found on their website and a link to their FAQ:
DO I NEED A TAPERED HEAD TUBE TO USE A TAPERED FORK ON MY BIKE?
In most cases, yes. However; with the introduction of certain models from Cane Creek, tapered forks can be run in two straight head tubes. The classic 1.5” head tube has an inside diameter (ID) of 49.61mm, with use of our ZS49/28.6 TOP assembly, a tapered fork can be used instead of the straight 1.5” that head tube was intended for. With the EC44/40 Bottom assembly, non tapered 1 1/8” head tubes with a 44mm ID can utilize a tapered fork as well.
www.canecreek.com/tech-center/headsets/faq
www.ogc.ca
Operating in an inudstry that sees yearly change of numerous product forms, is it a manufacturing nightmare to keep up product demand on your numerous lines when you have one year to perfect a constantly updating process? What kind of LEAN systems and quality change control programs do you utilize to keep up?
Also, do you guys need a process engineer who also has some experience in electrical engineering within an industrial enviroment and is a little obssessd with mtb's? (crossing fingers, haha prob not likely)
Cheers!
What would you upgrade to from this? With intention of keeping the lightness
I often go on races with a very qualified fork preper from "Novyparts" I've had the last two Fox 40s and the last 2012 I was disapointed on how it reacted on the first few months, it's been serviced by pro in the south of France and the result was almost there. It has now been a year, three services later.
When I gave my fork to "Novyparts" it just blew my mind, the fork was reacting faster, more sensitive, and didn't plunge when I was hitting 15m gaps, I've been racing for some time only seconds away from podiums and this season I wish I got it preped earlier.
Why is it that your forks NEVER seem to work as on Pro or Semi Pro videos ? And no it's not just the speed, I hope there are plans for some FOX dialing kits for enhancement of the Hydraulics
I will open with the most important question:
1. Skids or Wheelies?
2. Where is the best place to find the service intervals on my 40 float? How much of the servicing should I do myself (and instructions for the basic servicing) and how much should be done by the UK Fox Service Centre?
3. I am a big fan of Juice Lubes' Fork Juice (click here for more info) to reduce stiction and keep the fork running nice and smooth. Obviously this isn't a substitute for regular servicing, but do you have any views or recommendations on using it? (or a similar "stanchion specific" lubricant)
Thanks!
2. The service intervals are posted here: www.ridefox.com/service.php?m=bike&ref=servicehome
3. We don't recommend any external lube on stanchions. With regular cleaning, you should be good to go.
1. Would Fox ever consider building a handlebar remote lever for the TALAS travel adjust? I never use the lock out, but I use the TALAS adjust a lot.
2. On the 2014 34 TALAS CTD Fork. Is it possible to internally alter the short travel setting, without affecting the long travel setting? Ideally I'd like 110/160mm travel. I'm used to the older 3 posiiton 110/130/150mm & like the short travel setting for steep climbs, but love the 150mm for downhill!
really appreciate your time. thanks
Looking at buying a Giant Reign for 2014, well actually it will be a Trance SX and I am thinking for some of the terrain I ride I might be better to upgrade to a 34 over the 32 it will most likely come with.
Are you going to have options for after market forks that will be compatible with Giants Overdrive 2? (1 1/4" to 1.5" steerer)
Thanks!
(ex:http://www.ridefox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/07/eng/forks/40/40.htm)
ive seen this one (see link below) and it helps a lot, but i was just wondering if theres another tuning/help guide for my rear shock?
(www.ridefox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/011/Content/Rear_Shocks/DHX_RC4.html)
currently building my operator up right now and i cant wait to try out my suspension! ive always had fox forks on my dj's and liked them, so i cant wait to try this stuff out on my big bike.. keep up the good work!
farm8.staticflickr.com/7416/8728818299_281a7065b4_z.jpg
when i first became brave enough to tackle my own suspension servicing, i owned a RS Totem solo air. Sram had made some absolutely swell videos to help the DIY guy get wet (oily in this case) and hammer out his own work. i have seen the videos you have made for tuning and such, why not for the people out there getting into doing their own work? as it was said before, qualified shop tech's have ruined parts for some. i was confident enough to do my own work on my rc2 fit 40 and all was fine, but for some a quick vid can save many many head aches.
I have a 2010 36 TALAS with 45psi of air and one click of LSC. I weigh about 150 lbs fully loaded.
I know body weight and leverages can't be accounted for but lower friction parts or improved speed sensitive dampers could be implemented in a stock tune.
Why is only the middle spring rate ti for forks?
Is fox still looking at USD forks for the future?
Im currently running a drcv rp3 on my trek slash 9. My pro pedal dosnt seem to work. In fact it has never worked since i bought the bike(7 weeks ago)
Iv contacted my fox service center and he told my thats just the way the drcv is. Surly thats not correct, is it? there is no difference in stiffness from off to pro pedal fully on. Its killing me on the climbs and bottoming out on the descents
Look forward to your reply
Kyle
I'm a heavy guy and sometimes feel that I have to run max rebound to be able to slow down the air spring that I have to run. I also feel like compression doesnt do much either. Thinking I have to get my shim stack retuned.
I just purchased a new fox 40 air fork. I was wondering is there a baseline are pressures available based on rider weight. I have set the sag on my fork at 1.6" as the manual suggest but I to acheive that I only have 45 psi in the air chamber. I weigh 200 lbs geared up, and I have read internet articles and forums of guys running around 60-70 psi for their weight.
Any help would be appreciated.
I am in two minds ?? I have a kashima ctd rear shock on my Alpine 160
I do trail centres weekly and I also do the odd DH which is not ideal for the shock I have
so... do I get the FOX Coil or Air double barrel rear shock upgrade .. or which would you suggest I buy when all considered
thanx
no compression and really slow compression cant adjust it.
I have a trek Session 88 with a DHX RC-4, Im 5'11" 180Lbs, pointers on setting up the right amount of plush(Spring tightness, amount of psi w/ pump). The rear tends to buck or kick after compression!?
FROM EYE TO EYE. THE 450# SPRING MEASURES 6 3/4" LONG. THE SHOCK HAS A 3" STROKE. I RUN 2.8" TIRES THEREFORE THE GAP BETWEEN THE TIRE AND SWING ARM IS ONLY 1/4" APART. WOULD YOU SUGGEST THAT I BUY A 9.5" X 3 SHOCK OR AN 8.75" X 2.5 SHOCK TO PLAY IT SAFE, OR IT DOESN'T REALLY MATTER? THANK YOU.
It got replaced and I was really happy with the service you provided in getting a replacement Cartridge under warranty
Cheers
Adding air looses all small bump sensitivity and can't getf ful travel.
I disliked the fork when I got it, but after pumping the pressure way up I found it to be a lot better for fast riding, though overtime it seems to get softer and suffer from excessive brake dive again.
Mark
Can you recommend a good resource for proper suspension set up tips? Book/ blog/ video..
It would be great to know the indicators that you're looking for and the adjustments made when helping to properly tune suspension for your riders. Thanks in advance!
There isn't much out there for bicycles (we are working on specific set up videos) in terms of setup but there is a lot in motorcycles. Search suspension on amazon and you ill find some good publications.
I use arm position, stability as a visual indicator. also slow motion footage.
Mark
This looks like a good book covering moto suspension. www.amazon.com/product-reviews/0760331405/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?showViewpoints=1
Off to whistler next week for some testing. Woot!
Thanks again! - Joel
What is the typical fork and shock setting (specifically for a fast rider/ VPP DH bike) for a course with many big roots?
(I know it is up to personal preference, i only need a general answer)
I've got an OE 2013 DHX RC2 3.5 on my Scott gambler.
before lowering the fork felt fine
am I missing something?
www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike&id=59#usingthe20qraxle
Was the fork feeling fine before you dropped the travel? Did you swap out the air spring assembly to adjust the compression ratio? Is it possible the fork just needs some maintenance?
when I added the lowering spacer I serviced the lowers for piece of mind while they were apart
I've ran them through there cycle without air in them and there smooth as soon as I add some air they just feel a little rough/sticky
thanks for your replies James
Will you ever make a VAN 32 again?
any date on air retro fit for fox 40.
No date announced yet on air retro kit for 40.
I gets pretty friggen annoying reading 47 questions about an inverted fork, because there is no logical order to the questions and answers.
tbe.taleo.net/CH11/ats/careers/jobSearch.jsp?org=FOXRACINGSHOX&cws=1
I have a '13 Van 180 RC2. I have a couple questions on suspension fluid weights. IIRC its going to be 40ml per leg, 7WT Fox fluid. There is the new 10WT now; which do you recommend?
Second, basing on specs more than the advertised 'weight' of the fluid, does a heavier oil vs. the stock/oem 7wt be noticeable to a Cat 2-speed rider in terms for fork performance, with more or less the same damping and spring settings? I'm looking at more control over fast, chattery, braking bumps bike park terrain.
Can the internals be upgraded to the latest & greatest? Approx cost ?
Lastly can the travel of the 32 q/r 2014 Talas be tuned to 120/140mm ?
Thanks!
I have an older coil, but I'm sure the spring rate is off.
Am I too big for air?
I love your product but my CSU on my 2013 36 talas RC 2 seems to alaways creek after 4 of 5 months of riding , any ideas on how to stop the creeky CSU ?
Do you drink Micro brew beer? any favourites?
I sent my 2011 back 4 times for repair then got a new 2012 fork which has been back for repair and has now started to do it again.
At near on £1000 do you think this is acceptable?
I'm 175lbs geared with 65 lbs of pressure. 3 clicks of lsc and 6 clicks of hsc.
Cannot get the last 1.5 inches of travel
any help?
Settings are from the fully open (counterclockwise) position.
Mark
Will the OE negative spring be ok for me if not, what color do I need?
Can the 27.5 model be run with a 26 wheel, what are the impacts?
2.will u make forks and shocks R2C2 available? like CCDB stuff
What is the distance that minimum should have the lower crown from the top of the stanchion?
I have the new Fox 40 2014 air.
I read 157,20mm but I'm not sure about it...
Thank you.
What can i do to prevent the compression valve to explode? it has been an issue with those shocks for while
and how should i set up my air 40 for my weight im 130 lb.
[Alicia] I'm in marketing. It is all about coffee.
internals?
Is there any reason for this behavior?
It happens when I close the compression over the first half of range.
thx
-nick
thanks much
Mark
i see the EWS athletes using Fox Float X. Can i use these shox on my bike?
If they wanted to be cool they would come out with a 44mm 160/180 spring fork.
After all 44 is more then 40...
36 TALAS 160mm PN:820-01-361-KIT
36 TALAS 180mm PN:820-01-340-KIT
I've owned 3 TALAS forks over different bikes. The fork I eat dinner with works better than any Fox TALAS I've ever used. Why does the TALAS system suck so bad, even compared to the FLOAT on the same chassis? Are there any plans to eliminate some of the air seals or other ways to ditch some of the stiction on the travel adjust forks? Some of us require travel adjust to make it up the hills we bomb down, and a smoother TALAS seems to be what everyone is waiting for.
For what it's worth, the QR legs of my TALAS II open beers really well.
www.pinkbike.com/news/FOX-34-TALAS-FLOAT-X-FIRST-IMPRESSIONS.html
- If time allows, seek out a job at a bike shop while you are in school. Having this experience is a big plus in many ways.
- If you happen to go to school near any companies in the industry, look for internship opportunities.
- When your schooling is done, and you are ready to get out there, keep you options open for that first job. A number of us took that job to just get our "foot in the door" and carved a career path from there.
- Last, this industry is small and finding any opportunities to network and meet people on the inside can be a big help.
Good luck!
i really love your products
is that okay?
Factory 34 29 CTD Adj 140 fork
Factory Float CTD Adj shock
Will the new ctd float x shock be available for the 2013 specialized enduro frames with that special mounting bracket?
Thanks
A lot of people rebuilding old hardtails out there. Thanks.
Do you carry a 6.5 x 1.5 kashima coated rear shock with remote lockout?
I have an out of the box concept for suspension technology. How can I get in touch with you to submit the concept design?
i wanted to know......
are the boxxers to weak? the 40 is much stiffer.... where are the advantages and how much stiffer is the 40?
Mark
I hear you however man how sick would it look ...? Is there no other way to get that gorgeous kashima look ...?
Also for an all mountain bike ie) my Orange Alpine160
What is the best upgrade for me /it
Double barrel coil or air rear shock
I do a lot of trail blazing but DH also which my current kashima float isn't appropriate
Your advice would be ....??
What is the proper procedure to adjust sag on the Dyad of a Cannondale Jekyll?
Thanks,
Dylan
We fully developed and tested an inverted DH fork with our racers. The response from all of our racers was that they strongly preferred the conventional fork for its stiffness in cornering and holding the line. We developed axles with 3 different levels of stiffness; in all cases the conventional fork out-performed the inverted fork. We retired this fork from the RAD program. The picture above shows the inverted fork in the new FOX museum in Scotts Valley CA.
Do you believe you will ever try and rebirth the Inverted fork?
We fully developed and tested an inverted DH fork with our racers. The response from all of our racers was that they strongly preferred the conventional fork for its stiffness in cornering and holding the line. We developed axles with 3 different levels of stiffness; in all cases the conventional fork out-performed the inverted fork. We retired this fork from the RAD program. The picture above shows the inverted fork in the new FOX museum in Scotts Valley CA.
Keep up the good work
Why am I not surprised?
The 20QR system is stiffer torsionally but adds more than 1/4 lb to a bike.
15QR is great for XC thru AM bikes and 20QR is great for park ride bikes (36 & 40).
Do you plan on making a fork or shock that has both high and low speed compression and rebound?
We offer high speed and low speed compression damping in our RC2 FIT dampers and RC4 shock dampers. Rebound damping is primarily driven by spring rate; the need to dissipate energy stored in the spring. Our dampers dissipate rebound forces using two damping circuits in parallel, valves (for high speed) and orifice (adjustable low speed). For shocks, we offer multiple rebound valve tunes to cover the range of spring rates and frame linkage curves. We work with each OE to select the proper rebound tune for their particular bike. We offer multiple rebound tunes in the aftermarket.
Canada (bike)
Outdoor Gear Canada »
ph +1.514.332.1320
Has it ever been discussed to do different cost level forks? For example Boxxers. World cup, Team and Race. Thanks.
Thanks!
They almost look like they were made for each other.
A lot of people rebuilding old hardtails out there. Thanks.
people are asking silly questions with lengthy replies from "fox-factory" and a somewhat legit question concerning a majority of your customer base trying to customize there suspension. I would think you would like to make us stoked. just sayin...
Neg spring, what color/rate I need?
Is 27.5 model ok to run 26 wheel?
The other air valve is for adjusting main chamber pressure which sets your spring rate. You should adjust the pressure in this chamber based on sag. Use whatever pressure it takes to set sag at approximately 25% of your shock travel. Pressure in this chamber should not exceed 300psi.
This is a Fox fork compression fail video on Vimeo. this says a lot about the new damper problems.
Do you think the Universe is of Cosmic importance?
Oh no I want them for free please
United Kingdom (atv,bike,moto,snow)
Mojo Suspension Hoodoo Ltd. »
ph +44.1633.615.815
Here's a quick list of the benefits of the 36:
36 uses a sealed FIT damper for very controlled and consistent damping; 55 has an open bath design that is not nearly as controlled or consistent
36 offers separate high and low speed compression damping; does not have separate compression adjusters
36 weighs less (both 160mm and 180mm models)
36 Float air spring offers more incremental adjustments to cover a wider range of riders and conditions; 55 uses a ti coil spring and will require additional cost for a different rate spring, less precise spring rate changes and does not have the ability to adjust the compression ratio like a Float spring
I wanna use them on my pink ford f150 for off roading
www.pinkbike.com/photo/9759100
www.pinkbike.com/news/From-the-Top-Bob-Fox-fox-suspension-2013.html
Mark