Topeak Joeblow Booster - Review
Topeak has been making quality tools and accessories for as long as I can remember, and lately, the Taiwan-based manufacturer seems to have risen to another level in both quality and innovation. One product that showcases both aspects is its Joeblow Booster floor pump. Like the Bontrager Charger, the Joeblow Booster pump has a pressure reservoir that resides alongside the pump body which can be pressurized up to 160 psi (11 BAR) and then, with a twist of its top-mounted dial, blast a volume of air into a tubeless tire to scare up a quick seal between the bead and rim. The Booster can also be used in the conventional manner, and because it is rated at such a high pressure, it can inflate both mountain and road bike tires. Built to stand the test of time, Topeak's Joeblow Booster sells for $159 USD and can be purchased at quality retail shops worldwide.
Details:
• Purpose: high-pressure reservoir facilitates mounting tubeless tires
• Construction: aluminum pump body, steel base, aluminum reservior, extended hose, large, top-mounted pressure gauge, air-release button
• Valve head: dual-action, Presta and Schrader
• Range: up to 160psi/11BAR
• Functions: conventional inflation or Booster
• Warranty: Two-years, manufacturing and mechanical defects
• MSRP: $159 USD
• Contact: Topeak
• Purpose: high-pressure reservoir facilitates mounting tubeless tires
• Construction: aluminum pump body, steel base, aluminum reservior, extended hose, large, top-mounted pressure gauge, air-release button
• Valve head: dual-action, Presta and Schrader
• Range: up to 160psi/11BAR
• Functions: conventional inflation or Booster
• Warranty: Two-years, manufacturing and mechanical defects
• MSRP: $159 USD
• Contact: Topeak
The dial encircling the gauge redirects air to pressurize the reservoir and also releases it upon command.
Construction
The Booster is built to last - all of the critical parts are constructed from aluminum, and the base is steel - and where plastic is used, those parts are visibly overbuilt, presumably with the understanding that a floor pump is going to take a beating whether it is used by a professional mechanic, or by a well-meaning garage hack with nine thumbs. The top-mounted pressure dial is easy to read and the T-handle feels comfortable in-hand. Topeak blessed the pump with a long (one meter) hose, so it can reach wheels while the bike is in a stand or the wheel is on a workbench. Its valve-head automatically adjusts to either Schrader or Presta stems, and locks with a lever that can be manipulated with one hand. A bleed button where the filler hose exits the Booster's reservoir allows the user to fine-tune the tire's inflation pressure remotely. The pump's valve-head and internal pump bits are accessible with simple tools and are serviceable.
Use the air bleed button to get tire pressure right before disconnecting the hose - it's a time saver.
An old-school steel base plate assures that this pump will be around a while - and that wooden floors will bear the marks of your labor.
Wrench Report
Topeak's Booster looks and feels like a quality tool. The length and volume of the pump body is such that inflating a 2.3-inch tire can be accomplished quickly. Lots of volume per pump stroke, however, also means that it takes more heft to compress the T-handle as you near the Booster's 160 psi upper limit. The dial that controls the pump's pressure reservoir function has distinct stops: the one named "charge" directs compressed air into the reservoir; turning the dial to the station named "inflate" either releases the pressurized air into the tire, or allows the pump to be used directly in a conventional manner. I found using the dial to be a two-handed affair unless I steadied the pump at the base with my foot - no worries there. I found the generously long hose to be a major plus, because I could stash the Booster just outside of my workspace and the hose would still reach the wheels most of the time.
The first time I put the Booster to task I was converting a review bike to tubeless. I was excited to see if the reservoir function could overcome one of the more troublesome tubeless combinations: Easton rims and Maxxis tires. I pressurized the Booster to 120 psi (8.5 BAR), twisted the dial to inflate and, bingo, the beads seated on the 2.3-inch High Roller first try. OK then, next was a Schwalbe 2.2-inch Nobby Nic. Same wheels, same pressure and the tire failed to inflate - twice. Disappointed, I redoubled my effort, pumping the Booster to its maximum 160 psi, after which, the tire seated into the rim and sadly, instantly lost pressure. It was then that I noticed the tire had a good sized slash in its sidewall - large enough for an inner tube to bubble out. A floor pump that can seat a slashed tubeless tire? That's a winner in my book.
Another winner is the pump's remote bleed button. The Booster's top-mounted pressure indicator dial sits just above the bleed button, so you can get your tire pressures perfect, remove the pump head and be done with it. No more back-and-forth between the pump and a hand-held tire-pressure gauge.
Issues
I prefer flip-lever style pump heads because they don't unscrew threaded valve stems like the screw-on heads often do. That said, flip-lever heads require more purchase on the valve stem than screw-ons do, and even more stem length is needed for the dual-valve style heads like the Booster has. I have yet to find a Presta stem that the Booster couldn't inflate, but the day will come. I keep a screw-on Schrader adapter in my toolbox, which makes it possible to inflate the stubbiest Presta valve stems, using a dual-function head
More of an acceptable compromise than a negative function, the pump's relatively high volume provides quick inflation, but that comes at a price. The journey from zero to 120 psi is an easy one, but to attain the maximum 160 psi, one has to muster up a disproportionate effort. If you own a road bike, this might be an issue, but on the mountain bike side of the fence, you'll probably never need more than 120 psi in the reservoir to seat any modern tubeless tire and rim combination.
I prefer flip-lever style pump heads because they don't unscrew threaded valve stems like the screw-on heads often do. That said, flip-lever heads require more purchase on the valve stem than screw-ons do, and even more stem length is needed for the dual-valve style heads like the Booster has. I have yet to find a Presta stem that the Booster couldn't inflate, but the day will come. I keep a screw-on Schrader adapter in my toolbox, which makes it possible to inflate the stubbiest Presta valve stems, using a dual-function head
More of an acceptable compromise than a negative function, the pump's relatively high volume provides quick inflation, but that comes at a price. The journey from zero to 120 psi is an easy one, but to attain the maximum 160 psi, one has to muster up a disproportionate effort. If you own a road bike, this might be an issue, but on the mountain bike side of the fence, you'll probably never need more than 120 psi in the reservoir to seat any modern tubeless tire and rim combination.
Easy to manipulate, the Booster's dual-valve head may not seal on super-short Presta stems.
Pinkbike'sTake:
 | I like the idea that I can compress enough air by hand to mount tubeless tires without the use of a noisy electric-powered device. Topeak's Joeblow Booster costs about the same as a good garage-sized air compressor, which can far exceed the Booster's capabilities in garage or shop setting. The Booster wins when one considers that it is silent, very portable, and that it doesn't require an electrical outlet. I have both, and have not turned on my electric compressor since the Booster arrived. - RC |
Author Info:
Member since Mar 23, 2011
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dv65 0.043879
about half the price ! if you calculate the exchange rate and work really well
Not even mentioning how expensive CO2 cartridges are and that they are bad for the environment (also good luck trying to get mtbs accepted when the trails are full of empty CO2 cartridges).
As far as cost, again, not for every time you need air, just when you need to seat the tire so compared to a 160.00 pump. I can buy maybe 5-10 CO2's a year, then use the pump I already have. (I also use a big portable air tank that was only 20 bucks)
5-10 CO2's a year isn't even a blip on the radar for environmental concerns VS a persons overall carbon footprint. And they are 100% recyclable. And as far as litter on the trail. That's a pretty stupid argument. ANYTHING you have on, in, or with you when you bike ride "COULD" end up as litter....
CO2 cartridges are cheap at 3$ a piece vs the $160 pump. Why on earth would I leave the cartridge on the trail? Thats like saying tubes are bad for the environment when everyone leaves their flatted ones on the trail...no one does that.
I buy cheap unthreaded Crosman brand CO2 cartridges (for BB guns). About $16 for a 40 pack! You do have to have an inflator that can use unthreaded cartriges (I use an Innovations ultraflate with a cotton ball in the bottom to hold it tight). Works like a charm. One box has lasted me for years!
NOTE: Do NOT spray the CO2 directly onto sealant. It comes out cold and can freeze it.
NOTE2: CO2 does NOT leak out faster than atmospheric air... the molecules are just as large or bigger than N2 and O2...
You know not of what you speak of:
What dude was talking about was using Co2 cartridges to SEAT THE BEADS.
And yes they work quite well.
And I don't know where you're at, but here in Kalifornistan you can buy 'em for about a buck a piece-and less on sale. BB/Pellet guns use 'em too, thus you don't pay bike store prices when you buy 'em from a sporting good store.
That's roughly 160 tubeless tire's beads set by the time you equal the cost of this pump.
Lastly, as far as being bad for the environment, they're made of fricken ALUMINUM, which is HIGHLY RECYCLABLE
You people are retarded.
The sealant does not chemically react with the CO2. It is a dry gas and turns the sealant into a rubber ball because the moisture is drastically reduced.
It can shorten the life of the sealant in that it can turn the once liquid sealant into one rubber ball. If you must use CO2, you can inflate the tire without sealant, then deflate the tire and add your sealant through the valve stem.
I not only speak from experience, I also have done real research relating to this.
Besides, who doesn't inflate a tire with the valve at 12 oclock? its common knowledge, and it does NOT prevent sealant damage, so stop spreading around bad advice.
The expansion of a gas is an endothermic reaction (brutally said, it “sucks” heat) and the magnitude of the temperature drop is related to the initial gas pressure; because of its higher cartridge pressure, CO2 will “freeze” a lot more than inflate and repair cartridges like our Espresso.
The reason why latex sealants solidify when using CO2 cartridges is a physical one; it’s the big thermal shock, which often initiates the polymerization of the sealant. To avoid it, it’s normally sufficient to put the valve at 12-o’clock prior to inflation and let the sealant flow down to the 6-o’clock area, so that it won’t be directly hit by the cold gas. Also, reducing the inflation speed (most CO2 adapters allow it these days) will prevent dropping the temperature too much, good for the sealant … and good for your hands, if you’re not wearing gloves.
Read more at velonews.competitor.com/2014/12/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-tire-sealant-questions_355499#DRWoPWU4xeOZvMP2.99
I've also done real research on it, and have gotten feedback from Stan at Stans no Tubes himself. The 16g of CO2 that I use does not hurt the sealant.
Go ahead an buy your $160 pump ill stick with my method, that has worked flawlessly for years.
Replacing the sealant at the end of the season will prevent any issues. That's why I wont be buying a $160 pump.
I come here to offer solid advice about things I have experienced, and you resort to name calling and a bad attitude. Nice try.
Well, that conversation escalated quickly.
Anecdotally, I have used the same $8 box of co2 cartridges to seat roughly 2-3 sets of tires per season for the last 5 years. I have only gotten the "stansimals" once, and that tire was so full of cactus needles... I have seated a tire in march and still had juice in July, in the west Texas desert, in 6% humidity.
@thrasher2 thanks for the input man. These people here dont know what they are talking about.
Made of metal.
Has the attached boost canister.
$100
Should I say more
AirShot!
Compare them~ That's what people want to hear and know. Give valid pros and cons like why should I buy this one over the others? Or vice versa.
Is Pinkbike too soft and not want to offend any "Sponsors" or possible "sponsors"??
All was not lost. I run a very successful £15 Halfords track pump (that is a bit sh!t) and I made my pop bottle tubeless bong from the bits of Topeak pump. Upcycling. Winner.
www.chainreactioncycles.com/airwave-airblast-tubeless-tyre-track-pump/rp-prod142714
Works pretty well.
singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/ghetto-tubeless-inflator-mk-vii
People DO realize these are literally 1/10th of the price at WalMart or Target for what is essentially the same construction minus one tube and plastic check valve, same gauge and is probably made in the same place in Taiwan or China, right??