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2011 Boxxer RC Service

Step by step guide to a full lube service

35 Comments

  • + 7
 Great video, really helpful, although I would advise using a plastic/rubber mallet instead of a hammer to tap the bolts on the end of the fork legs.
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Hi, I'm wondering you said that oil wouldn't come out of the damper side or the coil side, but if in order to remove the lowers I need to hit the bolts at the bottom of the damper and coil shafts, wouldn't doing this allow oil from the damper and coil to flow into the lowers because the seal head is being pushed up ?? , and does it matter if the rebound is open or closed ?? And sorry for all these questions, I'm kinda a noob at servicing forks, you've been great help ...
[Reply]
  • + 1
 got a video for the 2011 R2C2?
I'm about to start doing my own servicing, starting with the basic oil and seals.

I'M assuming the only oil I should see is the 10 and 40ml from the lowers, as the other 239 is contained in the mission control yes been a closed system?
  • + 1
 No video as such but again almost identical in procedure and very easy to do . I would recommend downloading the appropriate sram guide and follow that as well.
  • + 1
 Yeah if for the guide and watched a few other videos, this one was very well layer out and piss easy to follow so was hoping you had one for the R2C2. Just trying to find one for the team so I don't come across anything surprising with the additional internals. I'll keep looking around. Cheers. Maybe when I get the hang of it ill do one myself.
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Thanks for your previous reply, I'm wondering if you could just change the oil and seals in the lowers, without replacing any oil or o - rings in the uppers, I'm worried oil might leak from the stantion if I remove the lowers ?. And are crush washers really necessary ?
  • + 2
 You can as I said already just give them a good clean and re-lube on a more regular basis and no the oil should not leak from the cartridge, as for the crush washers just reuse them I tend to use a little PTFE tape to help seal the lower bolts upon assembly. Have a good read of the SRAM service guide it really is quite good.
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Greetings
Please help, i have rs boxxer rc 2010, is the stiffness of the damper side and spring side the same? ... I did the whole service, put all new oil also, following the manual with Rock Shox pages and lots of videos, and in the end realized that the damper side is soft, i squeeze top tube with my hand hand and it goes halfway down, also you can hear a constant moving and the passage of oil somewhere, additionally between the stanchion and the lowers bushing some air passes when i squeeze with my hand down.

I've checked three times everything and did not see any mistake, unless this all should be so (though I doubt it).
THANKS !
  • + 2
 There's always a difference between the two as one has a spring and should be quite stiff the damper side should be relatively soft and yes you will hear the oil being displaced , this is quite normal and once all assembled should end up with a balanced suspension platform.
  • + 1
 ohh Thank you SO much !! i am so relieved , thx m8 !
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Is this for 32mm or 35mm Boxxers? Just wondering if the oil volumes and the measuring from the top of the stanchion to the top of the oil bit is the same for both 32mm and 35mm Boxxers
  • + 1
 Hi there this is for the 2010 35mm chassis onwards and unfortunately the oil volumes do not correspond to anything earlier ie 32mm chassis. If you look on the SRAM website all the info is there.Hope this helps.
  • + 1
 I followed the video and successfully serviced my forks. The only hiccup I came across was when it said to fill the rebound stanchion up with 290mm of oil and then measure from the top of the stanchion to the top of the oil and it should measure 105mm. Mine measured around 125mm i think!!! so i just added more oil to make it 105mm........was this a good move?
  • + 2
 Yes that is fine . They should feel plush now enjoy
[Reply]
  • + 1
 I there any simple way to replace the bushings? A friend of mine seems to have some play in the right lower :-$

Thanks
  • + 1
 No not really you need some special tooling to do it properly.
  • + 1
 Okay so easiest is shop service then... Pff and the race season is only 4 weeks away.

Thanks again! :-) cheers
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Very usefull guide, thank you a lot. Just my rebound doesn't work as before, it's a bit slow.
Any suggestions?
[Reply]
  • + 1
 What's the best grease to use?

and whats the best oil to use?
  • + 1
 For the grease i prefer Manitou Mprep or you can use stenders crystal grease. For the oil I tend to use either Silkolene or Shell Gemini. Hope this helps
[Reply]
  • + 1
 how often do you need to replace the oil in the damper
  • + 1
 If you look on the SRAM site it doesn't really give definitive schedules , only makes reference to how frequent and local riding conditions. As a rule of thumb I tend to do a full service once a year and a lower leg service every 5 uplift days and as a result fork and stanchions are as new and super smooth. Hope this is of some help............
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Is the 2011 and the 2012 the same?
  • + 1
 As far as I know they are the same would have to check the Sram site to be 100% sure
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Thanks for vid man.You saved me a lot of trouble. Cheers!
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Godd job!!! Nice video! And really helpfull as well!
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  • + 1
 excellent step by step manual - thank you very much - you saved my day :-)
[Reply]
  • + 1
 what kind of lubrifiant you use on the spring ?
  • + 1
 I usually use Manitou M Prep or Stendec crystal grease but any suspension based grease will be fine.
[Reply]
  • + 1
 Is thé 2011 ans thé 2012 thé same?
[Reply]
  • + 0
 why do you have tape on your fork but apart of that it was really helpfull
  • + 2
 It helps minimise the scrapes on uplift / shuttles
  • + 1
 oh k thanks
[Reply]

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