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okjg
May 6, 2011 at 7:20
May 6

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2011 Boxxer RC Service

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Step by step guide to a full lube service

25 Comments

  • + 6
flag AlexRob (Aug 2, 2011 at 5:21)
 Great video, really helpful, although I would advise using a plastic/rubber mallet instead of a hammer to tap the bolts on the end of the fork legs.
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag sladevallydh (Dec 26, 2012 at 8:12)
 Hi, I'm wondering you said that oil wouldn't come out of the damper side or the coil side, but if in order to remove the lowers I need to hit the bolts at the bottom of the damper and coil shafts, wouldn't doing this allow oil from the damper and coil to flow into the lowers because the seal head is being pushed up ?? , and does it matter if the rebound is open or closed ?? And sorry for all these questions, I'm kinda a noob at servicing forks, you've been great help ...
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag sladevallydh (Dec 18, 2012 at 11:57)
 Thanks for your previous reply, I'm wondering if you could just change the oil and seals in the lowers, without replacing any oil or o - rings in the uppers, I'm worried oil might leak from the stantion if I remove the lowers ?. And are crush washers really necessary ?
  • + 2
flag okjg (Dec 18, 2012 at 12:57)
 You can as I said already just give them a good clean and re-lube on a more regular basis and no the oil should not leak from the cartridge, as for the crush washers just reuse them I tend to use a little PTFE tape to help seal the lower bolts upon assembly. Have a good read of the SRAM service guide it really is quite good.
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag markan2211 (Mar 30, 2013 at 12:07)
 Greetings
Please help, i have rs boxxer rc 2010, is the stiffness of the damper side and spring side the same? ... I did the whole service, put all new oil also, following the manual with Rock Shox pages and lots of videos, and in the end realized that the damper side is soft, i squeeze top tube with my hand hand and it goes halfway down, also you can hear a constant moving and the passage of oil somewhere, additionally between the stanchion and the lowers bushing some air passes when i squeeze with my hand down.

I've checked three times everything and did not see any mistake, unless this all should be so (though I doubt it).
THANKS !
  • + 2
flag okjg (Mar 30, 2013 at 12:20)
 There's always a difference between the two as one has a spring and should be quite stiff the damper side should be relatively soft and yes you will hear the oil being displaced , this is quite normal and once all assembled should end up with a balanced suspension platform.
  • + 1
flag markan2211 (Mar 30, 2013 at 12:22)
 ohh Thank you SO much !! i am so relieved , thx m8 !
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag teamdazracing (Feb 13, 2013 at 13:33)
 Is this for 32mm or 35mm Boxxers? Just wondering if the oil volumes and the measuring from the top of the stanchion to the top of the oil bit is the same for both 32mm and 35mm Boxxers
  • + 1
flag okjg (Feb 13, 2013 at 14:03)
 Hi there this is for the 2010 35mm chassis onwards and unfortunately the oil volumes do not correspond to anything earlier ie 32mm chassis. If you look on the SRAM website all the info is there.Hope this helps.
  • + 1
flag teamdazracing (Feb 15, 2013 at 13:14)
 I followed the video and successfully serviced my forks. The only hiccup I came across was when it said to fill the rebound stanchion up with 290mm of oil and then measure from the top of the stanchion to the top of the oil and it should measure 105mm. Mine measured around 125mm i think!!! so i just added more oil to make it 105mm........was this a good move?
  • + 2
flag okjg (Feb 17, 2013 at 0:50)
 Yes that is fine . They should feel plush now enjoy
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag Stuuriaan (Apr 6, 2013 at 8:02)
 I there any simple way to replace the bushings? A friend of mine seems to have some play in the right lower :-$

Thanks
  • + 1
flag okjg (Apr 6, 2013 at 9:36)
 No not really you need some special tooling to do it properly.
  • + 1
flag Stuuriaan (Apr 6, 2013 at 14:27)
 Okay so easiest is shop service then... Pff and the race season is only 4 weeks away.

Thanks again! :-) cheers
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag Sysics (Jan 14, 2012 at 11:47)
 Very usefull guide, thank you a lot. Just my rebound doesn't work as before, it's a bit slow.
Any suggestions?
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag listeryu (May 5, 2012 at 5:50)
 excellent step by step manual - thank you very much - you saved my day :-)
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag ChrisKav (Nov 22, 2011 at 16:07)
 Godd job!!! Nice video! And really helpfull as well!
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag sladevallydh (Dec 18, 2012 at 7:01)
 how often do you need to replace the oil in the damper
  • + 1
flag okjg (Dec 18, 2012 at 8:13)
 If you look on the SRAM site it doesn't really give definitive schedules , only makes reference to how frequent and local riding conditions. As a rule of thumb I tend to do a full service once a year and a lower leg service every 5 uplift days and as a result fork and stanchions are as new and super smooth. Hope this is of some help............
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag DimS (Sep 8, 2011 at 10:08)
 Thanks for vid man.You saved me a lot of trouble. Cheers!
[Reply]
  • + 0
flag yasha (Oct 11, 2011 at 15:07)
 why do you have tape on your fork but apart of that it was really helpfull
  • + 2
flag okjg (Oct 12, 2011 at 0:17)
 It helps minimise the scrapes on uplift / shuttles
  • + 1
flag yasha (Oct 12, 2011 at 15:50)
 oh k thanks
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag idaivan (Jun 29, 2011 at 9:39)
 Thanks
[Reply]
  • + 1
flag sladevallydh (Dec 18, 2012 at 13:08)
 Thanks mate
[Reply]

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