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How to change the travel on your Durolux
How to change the travel on your front fork.
The Sr Suntour Durolux!
98 Comments
- + 7
mazze
(Sep 7, 2011 at 7:54)
I really like your tips, there is a remarkable amount of information content with totally detailed demonstration, but I honestly find it very stressful to watch your video due to your editing.
I don't want to be hating here, I like seeing you having fun and all, but all the sound distortion makes understanding the smart things you say quite difficult sometimes.
- + 4
hhahahahahah
Thank you man!
Sorry it was long and boring so my editing is just my artistic approach.
If I did not edit my conversation the video would have turned out to be 30 minutes.
Im sorry and I thought the same thing once I finished it.
However I did try to make the important topics clear.
Do you have any questions of any area you didnt understand?
I will answer your question directly.
Thank you for the positive feed back.
I tried to teach too much in one video and it came out too long as its!
RideOn!
Thank you man!
Sorry it was long and boring so my editing is just my artistic approach.
If I did not edit my conversation the video would have turned out to be 30 minutes.
Im sorry and I thought the same thing once I finished it.
However I did try to make the important topics clear.
Do you have any questions of any area you didnt understand?
I will answer your question directly.
Thank you for the positive feed back.
I tried to teach too much in one video and it came out too long as its!
RideOn!
- + 1
Nope, no questions in particular. At least not for now.
I really just wanted to share some of my thoughts in order to help you improving your videos, although they're pretty excellent already.
I actually don't own a Durolux yet, but I'm interested in buying one and may be checking some of your tips out my self. If anything should turn out to be unclear to me, I would definitely ask you for help!
Thanks and keep up the good work
- + 1
Thank you, my next overhaul video I will try and keep it simple to help people understand.
I will try not to over edit it.
Like in this video I sped up my voice to help get through what I was saying.
I agree with you and that it was had to understand in some points but I think I was clear in areas that
needed to be understood.
Well, I love my Durolux and the 2012 version looks awesome too.
If your looking for a great fork the Durolux is a very good choice.
RideOn!
- + 1
nikoniko@ is it the same on the 2013 model because Im getting a nukeproof mega frame and I need to lower them
- + 2
Yes, the fork is designed exactly the same.
So, to lower the fork it will be the same procedure!
- + 4
It is better then "Tech Tuesday" on pinkbike and you showing much more complicaded things.
You would be good mechanicer and I think that you love play with screw, threads, inlets and others things like that.
RideOn!
You would be good mechanicer and I think that you love play with screw, threads, inlets and others things like that.
RideOn!
- + 2
Thank you brother!
Thats a big complement as Tech Tuesday is very professional.
hahhahhaha
Yes I love to play and fiddle with my bike!
Learning the in's and out's of my bikes workings is very interesting to me!
RidEOn!
- + 3
Tech Tuesday isn't profesional because they showing very simple things.
They dont show how to change travel or even just change oil.
I must say that your vid is much mor transparent and it showing everything very good.
- + 3
Well done sir. Very silly and with great info. Did not realize how far SR suntour have come with their technology and style. Yay SR.
Are you going to do one for fox 180. Hint hint!
- + 1
Hi nikoniko,
One more question regarding to air piston and air rod.
Are you sure tahat those air leakage (from positive chamber to negative) are due to the fact tahat in some cases piston and rod are separately?
I thought that this is because of pour quality/idea with this piston seal (U seal).
I changed in my fork this U sel to normal o-ring (which is fitted a little bit tighter) and air leckage was improved but not eliminated (I need to let down small volume of air from negative chmber every 20-25 working hours).
But since that change I did't have case like with original seal when my fork after 10 (or even less) working hours collapsed.
Thank in advance for response.
One more question regarding to air piston and air rod.
Are you sure tahat those air leakage (from positive chamber to negative) are due to the fact tahat in some cases piston and rod are separately?
I thought that this is because of pour quality/idea with this piston seal (U seal).
I changed in my fork this U sel to normal o-ring (which is fitted a little bit tighter) and air leckage was improved but not eliminated (I need to let down small volume of air from negative chmber every 20-25 working hours).
But since that change I did't have case like with original seal when my fork after 10 (or even less) working hours collapsed.
Thank in advance for response.
- + 1
Thank you brother!
Good work!
Well my current Durolux I use the air head not attached to the rod.
I actually just buy a new head and fresh oil takes care of any air leaks.
I have not used a different o-ring yet but thats a cool idea it it works!
RideOn bro!
- + 1
What size oring did you use Liquidas? I am having a similar problem but my fork will not hold air in the positive chamber for hardly any time. It leaks into the negative chamber within minutes of use and the odd thing is that the oring that is installed looks totally fine. This is the oring: www.222parts.com/index.php?mo=3&art=42099233
I ordered a new seal head from SR suntour hoping that will fix the issue, but right now my 2014 fork is unrideable. As soon as the fork starts to cycle hard the positive air starts migrating to the lowers and the only thing I can think of that is causing it is the oring on that plastic piston head. I have also glued the piston head to the rod which did not help. BTW, Awesome Video Nikonniko! I just wish my Duroux would hold air!
I ordered a new seal head from SR suntour hoping that will fix the issue, but right now my 2014 fork is unrideable. As soon as the fork starts to cycle hard the positive air starts migrating to the lowers and the only thing I can think of that is causing it is the oring on that plastic piston head. I have also glued the piston head to the rod which did not help. BTW, Awesome Video Nikonniko! I just wish my Duroux would hold air!
- + 2
Thank you for the link of the o-rings, thats awesome!
The new head will fix your issue and make sure you have about 30ml-40ml oil heavy wt oil on the seal head. If there is air directly on the head it will leak.
I have experimented with grease as opposed to oil and it would eventually leak into the negative chamber.
Dont give up, the Durolux is a killer fork and will ride awesome.
Currently I too am on the 2014 model but have not glued the head to the rod.
I hope your new head comes in soon to get you back on the trails!
RideOn buddy!
- + 2
Hello elsinore,
I bought regular oring from local seal shop they were in dimensions as follows: 32/22/5 [mm].
I am not sure if you can buy them in your local shop but I hope that yes.
Seal is matched more tightly than original and at the first 2-3 weeks fork has lock/stammer at the very begining (but when you push them and start ride I don't feel any negative impact, fork works fine and smooth). After this period this negative feeling gone and now fork is working perfect from the very begining.
I hope my response will help you.
And as nikoniko sad. RideOn!
I bought regular oring from local seal shop they were in dimensions as follows: 32/22/5 [mm].
I am not sure if you can buy them in your local shop but I hope that yes.
Seal is matched more tightly than original and at the first 2-3 weeks fork has lock/stammer at the very begining (but when you push them and start ride I don't feel any negative impact, fork works fine and smooth). After this period this negative feeling gone and now fork is working perfect from the very begining.
I hope my response will help you.
And as nikoniko sad. RideOn!
- + 1
Thanks for the reply guys! I received my new seal head and the oring installed in there was bigger than the one on my old seal head, so it looks like the problem is solved. So far after a few rides everything is working fine and I ended up putting about 35ml of gear oil in there to keep things running smoothly.
Thanks again for the help!
- + 1
Hi - This might sound like a stupid question...can you drop a 2013/2014 Durolux to any height like this (i.e. 130/140mm) or have the internals changed? Can you also do this with the Durolux models featuring travel adjust? Thanks!
- + 2
Whats up bud!
I have the 2014 durolux RC2 and with spacers you can lower the fork down as low as you like!
However, on the Travel adjust versions I don't know if its possible to lower you fork any further than the preset travel.
Now, you can purchase the set travel spring rod and put it into your current fork.
Then you could lower it as you please.
I hope that helped mate!
RideOn!
- + 1
That is immensely helpful - thank you ever so much! My Cannondale Prophet is getting on a bit now but I reckon that I can bring it up to date again by giving it a new fork and I was hoping that a lowered Durolux might be possible. It'll suit it and my riding style nicely Now to find one....!
- + 1
There are now dealers there in the UK?
The fork is plush and rides great, it should suit your prophet superbly!
Here is a recent video I did on the newer 2014 fork!
www.pinkbike.com/video/364923
www.pinkbike.com/video/358653
I actually mailed a durolux to a mate in Scotland last year because he said he couldn't find one in stoke there in Europe.
The fork is plush and rides great, it should suit your prophet superbly!
Here is a recent video I did on the newer 2014 fork!
www.pinkbike.com/video/364923
www.pinkbike.com/video/358653
I actually mailed a durolux to a mate in Scotland last year because he said he couldn't find one in stoke there in Europe.
- + 1
ooo just your good shock absorber can be anything but a low version of the 180, 140 mm super best!
I have know how to rock shox agryle 409 100 repair was a new low of 80 mm!
Hmmm I thought other low after the new 60 mm? heh
I picture
www.pinkbike.com/photo/6535950
salute
I have know how to rock shox agryle 409 100 repair was a new low of 80 mm!
Hmmm I thought other low after the new 60 mm? heh
I picture
www.pinkbike.com/photo/6535950
salute
- + 1
Thanks a lot for you video. Yesterday I made this changes to my Durolux RC2 160 2013 - now it's 180mm travel. But i received a knocking when rebound in air leg and damper leg hiss.
I think, hissing is a result of oil unsufficient in damper? But what can knock in air leg: piston to rod or negative springs?
I think, hissing is a result of oil unsufficient in damper? But what can knock in air leg: piston to rod or negative springs?
- + 1
Awesome!
Im glad it help you buddy!
Im very happy!
Well, yes the knocking is the negative springs so you need to slow down the rebound.
You dont want it to knock.
However, I too have the 2013 RC2 and it makes the same hiss, its not bad damping its just the oil going through the dampers shims.
I know it sounds bad but on the trial you dont notice it!
Please turn you rebound to a point that in does not knock.
Then ride it as much as you can, the hiss will go away in a while, mine has.
However the hiss has nothing to do with how the fork is acting on the trial!
RideOn buddy!
- + 1
Niko, do you know exact oil quantity for RC2 damper? Today I tried to fix knocking and changed oil - only 65ml filled. I think it's not enough.
- + 1
Well, the best way to judge is to feel the top and bottom chambers with oil.
Then compress the shaft.
From full extended you want the shaft to move about 190mm if you are running it at 180mm.
So, compress the shaft and measure how much is moves until it bottoms out.
You will have about 30mm of the damper left but in the fork that travel is not being used.
As of an exact amount, I dont know.
The only way to judge that is after you have filled the damper to your liking, dump it all out and measure how much it is, which is something I have never done.
I run 15wt oil in my damper.
Good luck buddy!
- + 1
Dude your crazy(in a good way) the tips I just saw on your clip are.... (no words)..... and more. I want to buy a DuroLux and 10x to you i can change the oil my self . Keep it up
- + 1
You inspired me to buy the Sr. Suntour Durolux RCA... $246 NIB on eBay !!! I use your PVC advice and turn my travel from 180mm to 150mm... This fork its awesome ! thank you !!! My bike: www.pinkbike.com/photo/9060103
- + 1
Thank you brother!
Your bike looks very cool!
Im glad my video was able to help you out!
The PVC spacers works perfect!
RidEOn!
- + 2
Very well done, indeed!
What's the next part of your series? Seal change?
What do you think, would the 35mm EFC seal kit fit directly?
What's the next part of your series? Seal change?
What do you think, would the 35mm EFC seal kit fit directly?
- + 1
good clip i change the travel from 180 to 170.
btw are you sure about the oir in the air chamber? my'n dosent have any oil in the chamber, just a little bit of grease.
btw are you sure about the oir in the air chamber? my'n dosent have any oil in the chamber, just a little bit of grease.
- + 1
Thank you brother!
The oil in the air chamber is to make the fork more progressive, its not necessary if you dont think you need it.
Im a big guy and need the fork to be more stable mid stroke so, adding the oil lets the fork settle and then ramp up for jumps and drops¡
The oil in the air chamber is to make the fork more progressive, its not necessary if you dont think you need it.
Im a big guy and need the fork to be more stable mid stroke so, adding the oil lets the fork settle and then ramp up for jumps and drops¡
- + 1
thanks for the fast replay bro
i just did a service for the fork, feels like new again
your video is in my favorites!
i just did a service for the fork, feels like new again
your video is in my favorites!
- + 1
Booombastic! Very helpful...unfortunatly not for me but for a lot of people for sure...| love the way U edit your vids! How is your shoulder? All the best Niko!
- + 1
Boombastic mate!
My shoulder is getting better slowly but better is better, hahaahha
Thank you mate!
What fork do you ride?
Most forks come apart the same but I have some other forks in my lab that can also be documnted.
Yesterday I overhauled my 55 160 coil. I did not record it but it would show you how to work on Maz forks. Then last Saturday I overhauled my buddies 66 which could help you understand the workings of the 66, hahhahhhhha
Thank you fork liking it mate!
I hope to get riding soon!
How about your injury mate?
Are back yet?
My shoulder is getting better slowly but better is better, hahaahha
Thank you mate!
What fork do you ride?
Most forks come apart the same but I have some other forks in my lab that can also be documnted.
Yesterday I overhauled my 55 160 coil. I did not record it but it would show you how to work on Maz forks. Then last Saturday I overhauled my buddies 66 which could help you understand the workings of the 66, hahhahhhhha
Thank you fork liking it mate!
I hope to get riding soon!
How about your injury mate?
Are back yet?
- + 1
Good that your shoulder iz getting better and better ...my injury...well it's a bit better but I am not riding yet...My fork...it's a drop off triple working mint 170mm travel 2005. Take care Bro!
- + 1
Another awesome video! Interesting thing about the air-piston floating around - must have been driving you nuts! Nice simple fix!
(( BTW, nice hat! ))
(( BTW, nice hat! ))
- + 2
Thats why silicon is awesome!
It pulls right out in one block.
The silicone sticks to itself and stays in place.
Then when you pull it out it just slides out!
I have the new 2012 version now too and I made the same repair!
RideOn!
- + 1
Thats the same silicone used for windows and aquariums?
You sad you have te new 2012 fork. Is it the TA? Or the regular? Is the new RC2 + TA fork any good? People said tat the old D's with TA were crap when it came for damping.
Because of your posts I definetly using durolux for my future build.
P.s. You're great!
You sad you have te new 2012 fork. Is it the TA? Or the regular? Is the new RC2 + TA fork any good? People said tat the old D's with TA were crap when it came for damping.
Because of your posts I definetly using durolux for my future build.
P.s. You're great!
- + 1
Yes, the standard silicone sold at your local home repair store!
I have the new RCA not the TA.
Im sorry I dont need on the trial adjustment but Im sure if you do it must be good!
If you are into jumps and drops then the RCA has a better to adjust system to not bottom out!
RideOn I love my forks!
The Durolux rides super smooth and the fork is really light!
Thank you buddy!
- + 1
You're right, I think I'll to go with the regular RC2.
Travel adjust can be easily replaced with some proper climbing technique, but it's always better to have stronger damping.
Thanks for the intel. You've just became my go-to guy for forks.
Travel adjust can be easily replaced with some proper climbing technique, but it's always better to have stronger damping.
Thanks for the intel. You've just became my go-to guy for forks.
- + 1
Also Nico, one more question.
What can I use as an alternative for
a. Slick honey (I cant find it in Serbia)
b. 10 wt oil. (Can I use car hydraulic fluid or engine oil of the same weight)
c. 50-80 wt oil for the air shock (also can car hydr. fluid or engine oil be used)
we don't have a lot bike specific liquids, so we have to make do.
What can I use as an alternative for
a. Slick honey (I cant find it in Serbia)
b. 10 wt oil. (Can I use car hydraulic fluid or engine oil of the same weight)
c. 50-80 wt oil for the air shock (also can car hydr. fluid or engine oil be used)
we don't have a lot bike specific liquids, so we have to make do.
- + 1
hhahaahahaaha
Thank you buddy!
If I can help thats cool!
Well, for slick honey I dont know.
I live in Japan and they dont have it here either.
I have a buddy mail it to me from California.
However, when Im out I turn to Shimano's hub grease.
Its very expensive compared to slick honey but works very good.
However, I have tried oil in the fork but the grease works much better for me.
As for the damper I dont recommend anything over 15wt.
I personally use 10wt, in the video I used 5 but have got to 10 now.
Can you order from Chain Reaction Cycles? CRC
Or in California there are some cool shops that will ship anywhere.
Jensonusa.com or bikebling.com
Thank you buddy!
If I can help thats cool!
Well, for slick honey I dont know.
I live in Japan and they dont have it here either.
I have a buddy mail it to me from California.
However, when Im out I turn to Shimano's hub grease.
Its very expensive compared to slick honey but works very good.
However, I have tried oil in the fork but the grease works much better for me.
As for the damper I dont recommend anything over 15wt.
I personally use 10wt, in the video I used 5 but have got to 10 now.
Can you order from Chain Reaction Cycles? CRC
Or in California there are some cool shops that will ship anywhere.
Jensonusa.com or bikebling.com
- + 1
CRC is no problem. I've purchased before from them.
I asked because it will be cheaper for me to find the moto/car alternatives here.
But CRC is reasonable, as long as I order sub 50 EUR.
is it OK to use something like Weldtite Teflon Cycle Grease as an alternative? The declaration say's that is suitable for use in suspension systems and can be found in Serbia.
As for the Shimano grease I have Shimano Workshop Grease, did you meant that one as a hub grease?
I asked because it will be cheaper for me to find the moto/car alternatives here.
But CRC is reasonable, as long as I order sub 50 EUR.
is it OK to use something like Weldtite Teflon Cycle Grease as an alternative? The declaration say's that is suitable for use in suspension systems and can be found in Serbia.
As for the Shimano grease I have Shimano Workshop Grease, did you meant that one as a hub grease?
- + 1
Hey buddy!
Yes, the shimano grease is the hub specific grease which is really fine or slick.
I dont know about Weldtite Teflon Cycle Grease but if it says its good for suspension then Yes!
All you need is a super slick grease that wont harm your seals.
If any grease is too thick you can always thin it out with some fork oil to make a viscosity that works.
If you can get products in Serbia then always buy from your local shops!
- + 1
I have a broken shoulder and cant ride right now.
I have been off the bike for close to 2 months now.
RidEOn!
- + 1
Now that makes a lot of sense.8 weeks is about twice anything broken takes to be healed! so whats the issue? ligament,scar tissue,streched tendons,can take a little longer. Just remember that movement stoppage is the worst u can do. So get back to it, force and push thru the pain and mentally repair yourself. Works for me.By the way, since u not doing anything , can u come over and fix my bikes?
- + 1
hhhahahahahhahah
Ok, I'll be over soon!
I have a dislocated shoulder.
Im the same as you though and I usually right through the pain.
However its february now 7 months after my crash and the shoulder is still in constant pain.
I am riding all the time and I just grunt through the pain, ahahahhahah
However I have to take it easy as it feels as if the shoulder will pop out any time!
RideOn dude!
- + 1
Thank you dude!
Man you found an old video, good times!
My wife says, Im more handsome then than now, booohoooo! ahahahahah
- + 1
@nikoniko: Ha ha haaaa!!! Well... yah! She's right! I was like... "Man"... "NIKONIKO is lookin good baby"... "I
need to get on it!" I thought you lost a shit ton of weight! Ha!
need to get on it!" I thought you lost a shit ton of weight! Ha!
- + 1
@ericbs: hhahahahhahah
Maybe I need to lay off the beer some? I don't know personally I would rather just blaze a bowl after work but here in Japan its unheard of! hahahahaha So, my 16 years of 2-4 beers a night has caught up with me! BooooHoooooo
But I still ride as hard as I can! hahahhahahhh
Maybe I need to lay off the beer some? I don't know personally I would rather just blaze a bowl after work but here in Japan its unheard of! hahahahaha So, my 16 years of 2-4 beers a night has caught up with me! BooooHoooooo
But I still ride as hard as I can! hahahhahahhh