Fox Float R Rear Shock rebound adjuster knob out and put back in

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Fox Float R Rear Shock rebound adjuster knob out and put back in
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Posted: Jul 2, 2017 at 10:08 Quote
Did the red oil come out? You have slightly a bigger problem if that happens. Also, Fox is gonna charge more than that. They're dicks. The pressure that is popping your pin up comes from the compressed nitrogen in your shock body (I came to this conclusion by studying the drawings and then disassembling my 2014 CTD, Fox sure as hell won't tell you, they will have you send it in, quoted me 175USD). You can release that pressure, put your levers back in, then repressurize the chamber. If you can, find a motorsports shop with nitrogen that will do it. You need a syringe to pressurize it (which they sell for too much money), and the reason they use nitrogen is to avoid corrosion in the chamber. So a rigged up ball inflation needle with a syringe epoxied in it, attached to your shock pump could put regular air in it. If you aren't worried about corrosion. I'm gonna ride regular air until I find a shop that will cooperate. Hope this helps.

Posted: Jul 2, 2017 at 10:41 Quote
wrote:
Slugstew wrote:
Did the red oil come out? You have slightly a bigger problem if that happens. Also, Fox is gonna charge more than that. They're dicks. The pressure that is popping your pin up comes from the compressed nitrogen in your shock body (I came to this conclusion by studying the drawings and then disassembling my 2014 CTD, Fox sure as hell won't tell you, they will have you send it in, quoted me 175USD). You can release that pressure, put your levers back in, then repressurize the chamber. If you can, find a motorsports shop with nitrogen that will do it. You need a syringe to pressurize it (which they sell for too much money), and the reason they use nitrogen is to avoid corrosion in the chamber. So a rigged up ball inflation needle with a syringe epoxied in it, attached to your shock pump could put regular air in it. If you aren't worried about corrosion. I'm gonna ride regular air until I find a shop that will cooperate. Hope this helps.Quote="Barnus18"]Hey guys I'm struggling all week with that on my 2015 Fox Float CTD Boostvalve shock with no luck so far. I've tried everything you listed in here, freezer, 250-280 psi, air can down, and with all of these the pin is not slower at all unfortunately. Any other ideas? I tried like 300 times, and don't want to spend 100£ just to put this knob back. Thanks

Posted: Jul 13, 2017 at 12:58 Quote
I'm struggling to do this, fox ctd

I froze it and its still not moving slow, still flat out,

I can only move it down a touch and then it goes solid

Cheers ryan

Posted: Jun 14, 2018 at 22:00 Quote
Had to do this today. Freezer didn't work but found a better way. Shock this worked on was a Triad, so compression knob may be different.

With all knobs removed look down at the shaft for compression/lockout knob. You will see the rebound shaft running into the shock, touching the shaft of the compression knob. It has a square end.

I VERY CAREFULLY pushed the rebound shaft down into the shock with a pick until the base of the compression knob was cleared. I then VERY CAREFULLY pulled the compression shaft up out of the hole until the base was flush with the rebound shaft. STOP THERE. I have no idea happens if you pull the compression shaft out.

Then you can insert the rebound knob with the shortest radius part of the cam which actuates the rebound lever facing it. It will pass the rebound shaft and take the compression shaft back into the shock with it. The rebound shaft should then be sitting on the cam part of the rebound knob where it belongs.

No pics, sorry. I figured this out today and by no means was I going to take it apart to try again. If I can find a dead RP23 I'll see if they are the same and make a video.

Posted: Aug 18, 2019 at 18:07 Quote
I just popped on here to say thank you for this. This post saved my day after making the same mistake as all of the others on here. I was at a loss for how to get that pin pushed down and keep it out of the way long enough.

I was about to try the 'air up and freeze it' method when I read your post and it worked like a charm first try.

Thanks!

Mark

mastashake wrote:
Had to do this today. Freezer didn't work but found a better way. Shock this worked on was a Triad, so compression knob may be different.

With all knobs removed look down at the shaft for compression/lockout knob. You will see the rebound shaft running into the shock, touching the shaft of the compression knob. It has a square end.

I VERY CAREFULLY pushed the rebound shaft down into the shock with a pick until the base of the compression knob was cleared. I then VERY CAREFULLY pulled the compression shaft up out of the hole until the base was flush with the rebound shaft. STOP THERE. I have no idea happens if you pull the compression shaft out.

Then you can insert the rebound knob with the shortest radius part of the cam which actuates the rebound lever facing it. It will pass the rebound shaft and take the compression shaft back into the shock with it. The rebound shaft should then be sitting on the cam part of the rebound knob where it belongs.

No pics, sorry. I figured this out today and by no means was I going to take it apart to try again. If I can find a dead RP23 I'll see if they are the same and make a video.

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