RockShox TOTEM / LYRIK discussion thread

PB Forum :: Downhill
RockShox TOTEM / LYRIK discussion thread
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Posted: Aug 26, 2015 at 4:56 Quote
20w should do fine. ATF is also a great option, i know the SRAM service center in melbourne uses it as a lowers lubricant lol

Posted: Aug 26, 2015 at 12:58 Quote
riish wrote:
20w should do fine. ATF is also a great option, i know the SRAM service center in melbourne uses it as a lowers lubricant lol

for a smooht shifting lol

wil try the 20w

tanks

Posted: Aug 27, 2015 at 0:45 Quote
inked-up-metalhead wrote:
Can't get tokens for older lyriks.

Cry Cry Cry

Posted: Aug 27, 2015 at 2:17 Quote
I use 15w in the lowers and 80w in the air springs

Posted: Aug 27, 2015 at 2:21 Quote
I've heard it doesn't work on rockshox because they use o rings instead of proper air seals, but filling the air spring up a bit with oil will have the same effect as adding volume spacers. That's how you tune progressivity in marzocchi and open bath motorbike forks.

Posted: Aug 27, 2015 at 2:56 Quote
rainan wrote:
inked-up-metalhead wrote:
Can't get tokens for older lyriks.

Cry Cry Cry

riish wrote:
what you can do though is glue things to the bottom of the air spring cap to reduce volume. i believe novajustin was talking about it a few pages back, have a look.

Posted: Aug 27, 2015 at 4:31 Quote
novajustin wrote:
theminsta wrote:
I ran my Lyrik at around 15% sag and LSC fully closed and rebound 3 clicks from open. Lyrik doesn't feel good thru the travel I found. I blame it on the weak damper and super linear air spring combination.

Both true statements. I messed around with air spring volumes and found a pretty decent setup that made me happier with the air spring. I found these 3/8" thick nylon/plastic spacers at a hardware store that were just small enough to fit inside the top cap and they had a hole through the middle to fit around the shrader valve inside the top cap. I super glued 2 of the spacers together and then used some clear rtv silicone to stick them to the inside of the air spring top cap. They made a pretty noticeable difference in the ramp up of the air spring. I also found I was able to run around 8-10psi less to achieve 30% sag. It held the fork up a little higher in its travel, but the damper was still too weak to overcome brake dive. It was an ok solution though to the very linear feel of the air spring.

Thank you Wink

Posted: Aug 27, 2015 at 7:04 Quote
jaame wrote:
I use 15w in the lowers and 80w in the air springs

I have lubricated the air spring on my Lyrik (and inside of the air side stanchion) with RSP slick kick grease and it's smooth as silk. The first time I serviced it from new I noticed the inside of the airspring had grease in it... One of the more current RS oil charts mentions grease on a couple of fork models instead of heavy weight oil (like fox). I have heard that if you use oil it can bypass the piston head and end up in the negative airspring chamber causing issues...

Also in the lowers I took a gamble and used Castrol Magnatec 5w/30 engine oil which is a bit more slippery and clings to the bushings better. My RC2L is buttery smooth as a result... No issues with seals failing...And the oil is much cheaper per litre!

Posted: Aug 27, 2015 at 8:12 Quote
I wouldn't put oil or grease inside the air chamber. Oil and grease can get through the bypass valve in the piston head and cause the fork to ride harsh. The oil will flow to the negative spring and into the lowers causing a hydrolock at the last inch or so of travel. I know because this happened to me and I'm guessing it's the reason why RS stopped recommending oil in the air spring on their later oil volume charts. Just a light coat of slick honey on the sliding seals and you're good. I think the best way to make the fork feel really good is swapping out the overkill dual seals (dust and oil) and going to the Pike seals and going up in oil weight. Your lowers service intervals will drop, but the advantages of having a lot less stiction out weighs the service in my opinion. There's a reason why none of RS's high end forks are running dual rubber seals now days.

As far as oil type in the lowers, I'd stay away from engine oils or auto oils in general. Some of these oils are harmful to rubber which will eat away at your seals over time. Stick with fork oil. You can get moto fork oil a lot cheaper than the RS stuff and they all have additives that preserve seals. 15ml is nothing in terms of coverage. It's 3 teaspoons. The oil is just going to fly up and stick to your bushings and the inside walls of the lowers. This is why most people think they have a problem with their fork when they pull the lowers. No oil comes pouring out so they think something must be wrong when in fact it's just spread out everywhere in the leg.

Posted: Aug 27, 2015 at 21:29 Quote
What is this Slick Honey? Does anyone in the UK use it and know where to buy it online? Or is it just light suspension grease like Stendec grease?

Posted: Aug 27, 2015 at 21:54 Quote
buy slickoleum instead, same product but cheaper.

it's used usually between the seal and foam ring as a grease, decreases stiction quite a lot.

Posted: Aug 28, 2015 at 1:58 Quote
jaame wrote:
What is this Slick Honey? Does anyone in the UK use it and know where to buy it online? Or is it just light suspension grease like Stendec grease?

I use this supplied by TF tuned.
http://www.tftuned.com/rsp-ultra-slick-grease/p2771

If it's good enough for them it's good enough for me...

Posted: Aug 28, 2015 at 2:01 Quote
So I would guess it's a suspension grease like I already have. That's what I use on my DPA internals, just add a few drops of 80w gear oil in the air chamber.

Posted: Aug 28, 2015 at 9:44 Quote
rainan wrote:
novajustin wrote:
theminsta wrote:
I ran my Lyrik at around 15% sag and LSC fully closed and rebound 3 clicks from open. Lyrik doesn't feel good thru the travel I found. I blame it on the weak damper and super linear air spring combination.

Both true statements. I messed around with air spring volumes and found a pretty decent setup that made me happier with the air spring. I found these 3/8" thick nylon/plastic spacers at a hardware store that were just small enough to fit inside the top cap and they had a hole through the middle to fit around the shrader valve inside the top cap. I super glued 2 of the spacers together and then used some clear rtv silicone to stick them to the inside of the air spring top cap. They made a pretty noticeable difference in the ramp up of the air spring. I also found I was able to run around 8-10psi less to achieve 30% sag. It held the fork up a little higher in its travel, but the damper was still too weak to overcome brake dive. It was an ok solution though to the very linear feel of the air spring.

Thank you Wink

I purchased an air top cap for a Pike and put it along with a Pike token on my MY 2011 Lyrik. It fits without issue and works well. The cap cost about $28 and tokens are about $3 each.

Posted: Aug 28, 2015 at 14:17 Quote
Good trick, Mike87. Thank you ????


 
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