RockShox TOTEM / LYRIK discussion thread

PB Forum :: Downhill
RockShox TOTEM / LYRIK discussion thread
Author Message
flag deadkenny
Posted: Jun 10, 2017 at 3:26 Quote
Think charger upgrade is just the simpler option without having to spend ages setting up and plenty think it's great.

Question then is seals. I've seen comment that pike seals are preferable with the charger fitted, and one saying they had issues with air build up and switched to the foams instead of the oil seals. Not sure why fitting a charger would cause that problem though, especially as they were commenting about air side not the damper side.

Is using foams instead of the hard oil seals workable with an older Lyrik? Not sure on the age of mine. 2010-ish.

Should I go for low friction seals or are the Pike seals pretty much low enough friction anyway? I do notice stiction on mine currently, but it's only on initial compress.

And tokens? Pikes and the new Lyriks I believe use tokens. My old Lyrik doesn't.
flag Cricetto
Posted: Jun 10, 2017 at 12:17 Quote
Hi! I use pike seals include with the foam rings. Is it much better than the older hard oil seals. I use with 7.5 W motorex in the damper (mission control without floodgate). Please ask Rish in the forum he help me also.
tokens:
You have to buy pike or new lyrik air cup are there compatible with the tokens and the old lyrik.

Cheers!
flag GlennM907
Posted: Jun 10, 2017 at 13:34 Quote
If I wasn't waiting for a Mattoc in the mail I'd be modifying or replacing the MoCo IS damper in my Yari. What a joke.

Years ago I blew up a MoCo damper in a Tora--twice--by repeated flat drops to pavement. It would have survived if it had ever been designed to do more than "pass the parking lot test".

I could understand if the threshold for HSC was lower on XC forks--it should be. The reality is, MoCo dampers have always been progressive in nature, the most archaic of suspension damping technology.

I guess I'm blown away Rockshox has gotten away with such shenanigans.
flag spudlord
O+
Posted: Jun 11, 2017 at 1:26 Quote
deadkenny wrote:
Think charger upgrade is just the simpler option without having to spend ages setting up and plenty think it's great.

Question then is seals. I've seen comment that pike seals are preferable with the charger fitted, and one saying they had issues with air build up and switched to the foams instead of the oil seals. Not sure why fitting a charger would cause that problem though, especially as they were commenting about air side not the damper side.

Is using foams instead of the hard oil seals workable with an older Lyrik? Not sure on the age of mine. 2010-ish.

Should I go for low friction seals or are the Pike seals pretty much low enough friction anyway? I do notice stiction on mine currently, but it's only on initial compress.

And tokens? Pikes and the new Lyriks I believe use tokens. My old Lyrik doesn't.

New pike seals work really well, use them with foams to keep them lubricated and you have low friction and good durability. Not had an issue with them in my forks but I've not had an old lyrik with them in but they're fine in my boxxers.

The old seals ruining without the oil seal are very low stiction but are very high maintenance since you're just running a dust wiper. Works great but be prepared for regular lowers oil changes

Also a pike top cap will fit in an old lyrik allowing tokens to be fitted.
flag spudlord
O+
Posted: Jun 11, 2017 at 1:57 Quote
That should do the trick
flag calbert813
Posted: Jun 12, 2017 at 8:20 Quote
Be careful as I believe the thread pitch changed for the 2015+ Pike and no longer will fit the Lyrik.
flag talkingspoon
Posted: Jun 12, 2017 at 16:25 Quote
calbert813 wrote:
Be careful as I believe the thread pitch changed for the 2015+ Pike and no longer will fit the Lyrik.

the 2015 and new pike has 2 different thread pitches. A fine thread and a course thread
flag millpill
Posted: Jun 12, 2017 at 19:29 Quote
Was wondering how important the 0wt30 is for the lower leg service for pike/lyrik. iirc, it's just bath oil, right? Can I just use the 15wt oil or can I substitute it with something like 0wt20 motor oil.
flag mwilliams
Posted: Jun 13, 2017 at 0:40 Quote
It's just as cheap to buy fork oil so don't see why you would want to use engine oil?

It would lubricate fine but not sure if anything in the engine oil would react with the for seals. Additives in oil coukd make the seals swell or deteriorate.
flag iffy
Posted: Jun 13, 2017 at 1:51 Quote
engine oil wiil be fine or even better as a bath oil,
fork oil is designed to flow through damping circuit not lubricate sliding parts under pressure,
engines have plenty of seals inside incidentally.
flag mwilliams
Posted: Jun 13, 2017 at 10:37 Quote
iffy wrote:
engine oil wiil be fine or even better as a bath oil,
fork oil is designed to flow through damping circuit not lubricate sliding parts under pressure,
engines have plenty of seals inside incidentally.

Seals could be different materials though. Engine oils are also designed to run at higher temperatures.

Don't see why you would choose to use the wrong oil when you can buy the correct oil for a 5a
flag el-guapo-dave
Posted: Jun 14, 2017 at 5:09 Quote
I have been using engine oil in my Lyrik lowers for a while now without any negative impact on the seals in the fork.
flag iffy
Posted: Jun 14, 2017 at 5:33 Quote
one of engine oils essential properties is to lubricate the parts when the motor is cold started, especially in freezing conditions, this is when most wear takes place.
flag bikerofestacada
Posted: Jun 20, 2017 at 20:50 Quote
came up short pretty bad and now my totem has no rebound control. like it just shoots back up and slams into the top of its travel. makes a loud thud even from a 1" compression. what do?

 


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