RockShox TOTEM / LYRIK discussion thread

PB Forum :: Downhill
RockShox TOTEM / LYRIK discussion thread
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Posted: Jul 24, 2017 at 23:53 Quote
VTwintips wrote:
What's the procedure with making a dual position air lyrik into a solo air? I think I have a 2011. It has a straight steerer. I've been wanting to reduce travel for a while. It doesnt' ride well when its at 130mm compared to 160mm, but I only really need 160mm for bike park days.
I made it a u-turn coil. Just needed 3 parts from ebay. Under 100 bucks. Feels amazing now. Went with the x-firm spring.

Posted: Jul 25, 2017 at 7:12 Quote
I'm strongly considering a Totem for my Bottlerocket with the Bottlerocket being a 1.5 headtube and all. Anyone here ever rode that set up? Only thing I worry about is the bike being really slack with a longer travel fork like that. For reference I'm running a 160mm Domain right now which I like, just want some more travel.

Posted: Jul 25, 2017 at 8:17 Quote
OverlyCasual wrote:
I'm strongly considering a Totem for my Bottlerocket with the Bottlerocket being a 1.5 headtube and all. Anyone here ever rode that set up? Only thing I worry about is the bike being really slack with a longer travel fork like that. For reference I'm running a 160mm Domain right now which I like, just want some more travel.

I get what you mean about wanting more travel (I too ride a BR)

Don't think I'd wanna go much longer travel than my lyrik though , Iv found tuning your shocks helps so much with how you use the travel .

Posted: Jul 25, 2017 at 16:26 Quote
liamarcher wrote:
OverlyCasual wrote:
I'm strongly considering a Totem for my Bottlerocket with the Bottlerocket being a 1.5 headtube and all. Anyone here ever rode that set up? Only thing I worry about is the bike being really slack with a longer travel fork like that. For reference I'm running a 160mm Domain right now which I like, just want some more travel.

I get what you mean about wanting more travel (I too ride a BR)

Don't think I'd wanna go much longer travel than my lyrik though , Iv found tuning your shocks helps so much with how you use the travel .

I think if I had a soft spring for my Domain I would Like it a lot better. The other thing I want out of a fork is small bump sensitivity which the Domain isn't great at for me right now. I wanted to stay away from dual crowns and the Toem just seems to be the best option. Plus I love the look.

Posted: Jul 26, 2017 at 9:11 Quote
Get a solo air totem and you can easily lower it
I had mine at 160mm and now 150mm. On a Cotic bfe.

Posted: Aug 7, 2017 at 6:09 Quote
Im thinking about a 2 step totem but im worried about the travel problems. The owner of the totem that im about to buy said that he could lock the travel at 180mm if i want before selling to me. Could this be done actually? Needs explainations

Posted: Aug 14, 2017 at 21:24 Quote
im in need of help ... i have a 2011 lyrik solo air rc2dh .. i started having issues with it 2 weeks ago where it would randomly suck down into the travel which means the orings are f*cked so i bought new ones rebuilt the whole fork went for a ride 5 mins later the fork went limp and was stuck at half travel.. tore it down again replaced everything took a flash light and shined it into the stantchon to see if there was a scratch in the tube there was nothing it was perfect put it back together and it was still f*cked.. got pissed off left it for a week and tonight i tore it down again cleaned everything with iso lubed it rebuilt it and its still f*cked... i wanna ride my bike lol and i cant figure this out the only thing and i changed was the seals there out of the new lyrik which i dont see them causing this issue.. does anyone have an idea

Posted: Aug 15, 2017 at 6:32 Quote
soulless wrote:
im in need of help ... i have a 2011 lyrik solo air rc2dh .. i started having issues with it 2 weeks ago where it would randomly suck down into the travel which means the orings are f*cked so i bought new ones rebuilt the whole fork went for a ride 5 mins later the fork went limp and was stuck at half travel.. tore it down again replaced everything took a flash light and shined it into the stantchon to see if there was a scratch in the tube there was nothing it was perfect put it back together and it was still f*cked.. got pissed off left it for a week and tonight i tore it down again cleaned everything with iso lubed it rebuilt it and its still f*cked... i wanna ride my bike lol and i cant figure this out the only thing and i changed was the seals there out of the new lyrik which i dont see them causing this issue.. does anyone have an idea

Is there resistance when you try to pull the fork back up? A lack of resistance will give you a better idea of where the leak could be coming from.

Posted: Aug 15, 2017 at 23:03 Quote
soulless wrote:
im in need of help ... i have a 2011 lyrik solo air rc2dh .. i started having issues with it 2 weeks ago where it would randomly suck down into the travel which means the orings are f*cked so i bought new ones rebuilt the whole fork went for a ride 5 mins later the fork went limp and was stuck at half travel.. tore it down again replaced everything took a flash light and shined it into the stantchon to see if there was a scratch in the tube there was nothing it was perfect put it back together and it was still f*cked.. got pissed off left it for a week and tonight i tore it down again cleaned everything with iso lubed it rebuilt it and its still f*cked... i wanna ride my bike lol and i cant figure this out the only thing and i changed was the seals there out of the new lyrik which i dont see them causing this issue.. does anyone have an idea

Lol I had (have?) the same problem as you. I also have 2011 (might be 2010) Lyrik Solo Air RC2DH forks and had them stick about halfway down in it's travel. The first time it happened to me I was riding down a small staircase. Held the wheel between my knees and pulled up on the crown and it went back to normal. Happened a handful of times after that, but I recently did a service on them and hasn't happened since. There wasn't too much resistance when I pulled up on the fork. Also I haven't changed the small amount of oil inside the air chamber in a while so I might do that.

Posted: Aug 16, 2017 at 5:53 Quote
Also check the air piston shaft for damage/scratches... if damaged/scratched, each stroke of the air piston can migrate air into the lowers past the new o-ring in the piston head. It's pretty easy to scratch the air piston shaft if you are not careful when undoing the lower circlip...that's why it's recommended that you remove the top cap on the air spring side and push the air piston shaft inward and out of the way of the circlip pliers.

Posted: Aug 16, 2017 at 12:58 Quote
Yea the shaft seal is good. I contacted rockshox and I might have the wrong air spring assembly mine doesn't have the blue piston head with Schrader on it..apparently it's suppose to but I worked good for almost 2 months till now lol

Posted: Aug 17, 2017 at 7:49 Quote
soulless wrote:
Yea the shaft seal is good. I contacted rockshox and I might have the wrong air spring assembly mine doesn't have the blue piston head with Schrader on it..apparently it's suppose to but I worked good for almost 2 months till now lol

I don't think the air spring redesign came into play until the 2012 model year, your fork has the older design without the valve. See if you can scrounge up the parts to convert it to coil and put all of these problems behind you. All you'll need is the spring shaft, top out assemble and spring(s). The top cap is tough to find but the soloair will work just fine.

Posted: Aug 17, 2017 at 12:22 Quote
calbert813 wrote:
soulless wrote:
Yea the shaft seal is good. I contacted rockshox and I might have the wrong air spring assembly mine doesn't have the blue piston head with Schrader on it..apparently it's suppose to but I worked good for almost 2 months till now lol

I don't think the air spring redesign came into play until the 2012 model year, your fork has the older design without the valve. See if you can scrounge up the parts to convert it to coil and put all of these problems behind you. All you'll need is the spring shaft, top out assemble and spring(s). The top cap is tough to find but the soloair will work just fine.
I have the serial number to rockshox the air spring is correct I found out 20mins ago.. coil isn't an option for me at the minute I'm a little on the heavy side that's why I'm running an air fork. The fork has been great till 2 weeks ago then it's been a nightmare

Posted: Aug 21, 2017 at 14:34 Quote
Hey guys, how does the Lyrik RC2DH (Air, Mission Control DH damper) hold up compared to the newer Lyrik and 36? Right now a brand new Lyrik RC2DH is almost half the price of a new 36.

I don't know much about these forks however, and being a bit older, reviews are lacking. How's the small bump sensitivity? Also does it have a fairly supportive mid-stroke? Someone at mtbr said you can use a pike top cap with bottomless tokens to tune progressiveness? I know it probably isn't as great as some newer forks, but is it a night and day difference compared to newer stuff?

Thanks a lot!

Posted: Aug 22, 2017 at 7:50 Quote
Hey guys, having issues, need assistance please...

Have an '11 Totem RC2DH misson control DH(I think) but not sure what I'm looking at.. Every time I google an 11 Totem, they're white and mine is silver..

Took it in to my LBS to have it rebuilt, I had planned on doing it myself and got cold feet. I also got a RS seal kit and oil (240ml 5wt, 120ml 15wt) which I took to them.. (docs say 203ml 5wt upper, 20ml 15wt lower)

Well I got back all but about 50ml of the 5wt oil and the fork rides like poop, no small bump compliance at all, sag is close (my shock pump recently broke of course) but lower pressure than what's recommend to get proper cycling otherwise it's too stiff..

Ive looked over the tech docs and I keep coming back to the fork needing 203ml 5wt in the upper and 20ml 15wt in the lower, I'M NOT SURE IF I'M WRONG OR THEY'RE WRONG..

Please, I know I suck for not doing the rebuild myself, but im here and now in need of guidance, thank you



 
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