RockShox TOTEM / LYRIK discussion thread

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RockShox TOTEM / LYRIK discussion thread
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Posted: Nov 10, 2019 at 10:01 Quote
Could I maybe use a fox forty air cap possibly like I would think they might have similar threads I would think.

Posted: Nov 10, 2019 at 13:46 Quote
awesomemtb4 wrote:
Could I maybe use a fox forty air cap possibly like I would think they might have similar threads I would think.
No.

Posted: Nov 10, 2019 at 16:24 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
awesomemtb4 wrote:
Could I maybe use a fox forty air cap possibly like I would think they might have similar threads I would think.
No.
Double no... There is no way fox and rockshox have the same thread pitch it may look close but one could be 1mm and the other 1.25mm you pretty much have to work with what you got from RS glueing the token to your cap might be your only option

Posted: Nov 10, 2019 at 23:39 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
ajax-ripper wrote:
awesomemtb4 wrote:
Could I maybe use a fox forty air cap possibly like I would think they might have similar threads I would think.
No.
Double no... There is no way fox and rockshox have the same thread pitch it may look close but one could be 1mm and the other 1.25mm you pretty much have to work with what you got from RS glueing the token to your cap might be your only option

Did anyone tryed, or it's just asumption?

Posted: Nov 10, 2019 at 23:52 Quote
40's have thinner wall stanchion tubes there is no way in hell it would work.

If you really want volume spacers you have a few options:

1. Glue a 35mm spacer to your top cap.
2. Machine yourself a new top cap with threads for the 35 mm spacers.
3. You could potentially mount something on top of the seal head/ air shaft to take up volume that way, or just use a big old glob of grease, there no rule about what shape the spacer must be, what material it has to be made of or where the spacer has to go all it need to do is take up air space.

Before doing anything you should remove the air cap and not how far the top of the seal head is from the top of the stanchion tube at full compression, this will give you a good idea how many spacers (if any) you can run.

Also ask yourself this, Why do you want the spacer? They will increase ramp allowing you to run a bit more sag while making it more difficult to hit bottom. Most people benefit from running NO volume spacers and slightly less sag.

Posted: Nov 11, 2019 at 2:14 Quote
I ask cos I am curently in proces of customising my totem, same way as i did to my 26" Lyrik. (Check my BTR). I am shure i will be altering damper, eather i will re-shim RC2DH or find a way to drop inside RC Charger or even RC2.

As I will go with coil, and make a custom positive and bigger negative coil i am left with damper side.
Any Ideas?

Posted: Nov 11, 2019 at 7:23 Quote
Well thanks for the help guys will see if glueing spacers to the top cap will work

Posted: Nov 24, 2019 at 14:06 Quote
I'm having issues with my new air spring I went from the old lyrik RC2DH spring pre 2014 to the one with a Schrader valve and Blue seal head. The issue I'm having is that it won't equalize pressure when I first installed it I tried to push it down to install the circlip and it just forced itself back down I thought maybe putting on the air cap to make the air cap to make it equalize and it still didn't I'm I missing something?

Posted: Nov 24, 2019 at 14:52 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
I'm having issues with my new air spring I went from the old lyrik RC2DH spring pre 2014 to the one with a Schrader valve and Blue seal head. The issue I'm having is that it won't equalize pressure when I first installed it I tried to push it down to install the circlip and it just forced itself back down I thought maybe putting on the air cap to make the air cap to make it equalize and it still didn't I'm I missing something?

Nvm got it figured

Posted: Nov 25, 2019 at 13:25 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:
I'm having issues with my new air spring I went from the old lyrik RC2DH spring pre 2014 to the one with a Schrader valve and Blue seal head. The issue I'm having is that it won't equalize pressure when I first installed it I tried to push it down to install the circlip and it just forced itself back down I thought maybe putting on the air cap to make the air cap to make it equalize and it still didn't I'm I missing something?

Nvm got it figured

What was the fix? In case someone else runs into this same issue.

Posted: Nov 25, 2019 at 15:14 Quote
dpresling wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:
I'm having issues with my new air spring I went from the old lyrik RC2DH spring pre 2014 to the one with a Schrader valve and Blue seal head. The issue I'm having is that it won't equalize pressure when I first installed it I tried to push it down to install the circlip and it just forced itself back down I thought maybe putting on the air cap to make the air cap to make it equalize and it still didn't I'm I missing something?

Nvm got it figured

What was the fix? In case someone else runs into this same issue.

I put the fork together and without air cycled it and it worked fine it is hard to push down when installing the circuit but you can do it

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