They have a 35mm stanchion Pike, so does anybody know if those stanchions would work on a 26 lyrik
Probably not because the 26' Lyriks lowers appear to be wider apart than the lowers on a 26' Pike. But I could be wrong. Probably would be far less hassle and $ just to get a 26' Pike unless your frame is a straight steerer.
Correct. Lyriks share architecture with the 35mm A1-B1 boxxer (though not interchangeable as the leg length differs)
And if OP is dealing with a straight steerer, a fox 36 will be the ticket as they still offer 1 1/8" crowns for 36s
Always loved the stiffness of the totem, now wanting to run it 650b and upgrade the damping.
Has anyone fitted a charger2 damper to a totem?
I guess the critical interface is getting a consistent top cap size. are the the totem top caps the same diameter and thread pitch as newer lyrik/pikes? As per above post I’m guessing bigger.... does anyone have the dimensions to get one machined?
Oyherwise as long as the travel is the same and the bottom leg bolt is the same I can’t see any issue.... anyone any experience of doing this?
The totem is 40mm tubes. Not sure the thread pitch but it could work if you has someone machine you a reducer to go from the totem 40mm down to pike/lyrik 35mm.
Side note. There are 2 thread pitches for the pike, depending what production you have.
The only problem of thread pich if its industry standard or is it some RS custom. I am still in proces of thinking.
Will post any uptdates if there would be any.
Any update on this? I've been working on my lockdown project and got my Totems with a 27.5 wheel fitted and it's looking great. I want to update the damping now....
I'm going to be running the forks at 160/170 so will swap out for a pike of lyrik charger 2.1 damper.
Upper Interface I'm wondering if i can modify the existing Totem damper top cap to replace the Charger Damper Top Cap... if not then i think it's getting a threaded reducer.... Does anyone know if you can disassemble the charger damper without special tools? I'm tryuing to get as much info before i order one!
Lower Interface The final variable is will the bottom end of the charger damper sit properly in the totems... does anyone have any advice? I see the note about making sure the casting plug is removed!
the cap threads off the top of the charger damper but it holds the bladder in place. You will be better the make a reducer. The totem damper cap won't work with the charger damper even if you modify it.
The only special tool that you need is the bleed fitting but even that you can do with just a regular syringe.
If you are going to take a charger damper apart. Careful when unthreading the caps that hold the bladder in place. It will rip if you go ham on it
The totem is 40mm tubes. Not sure the thread pitch but it could work if you has someone machine you a reducer to go from the totem 40mm down to pike/lyrik 35mm.
Side note. There are 2 thread pitches for the pike, depending what production you have.
The only problem of thread pich if its industry standard or is it some RS custom. I am still in proces of thinking.
Will post any uptdates if there would be any.
Any update on this? I've been working on my lockdown project and got my Totems with a 27.5 wheel fitted and it's looking great. I want to update the damping now....
I'm going to be running the forks at 160/170 so will swap out for a pike of lyrik charger 2.1 damper.
Upper Interface I'm wondering if i can modify the existing Totem damper top cap to replace the Charger Damper Top Cap... if not then i think it's getting a threaded reducer.... Does anyone know if you can disassemble the charger damper without special tools? I'm tryuing to get as much info before i order one!
Lower Interface The final variable is will the bottom end of the charger damper sit properly in the totems... does anyone have any advice? I see the note about making sure the casting plug is removed!
@Richyg Have you got any photos of the totem with 650B? Considering the same before I splash out on new rims.
Also for the Totems, does anyone know if you can put the normal preload spacers under the negative spring to reduce the travel by a few mm?
@lucas-t: yes you can reduce the travel as you describe. I’ve currently got a 20mm spacer and them sat short at 160. I’m going to move the shim to keep full 180 extension, but limit the travel to 160/170.
When running 650 wheel o.d. 710 with my 2.4 wild enduro i recommend max travel of 170mm. The totem technical drawing gives a max dimension between top of tyre and crown.
I’m currently getting a 20mm axle wheel built up, but I’ll try and post a picture with a 15mm axle and the wheel perched in place.clearance should increase slightly with the 20mm axle.
Tyre clearance was ok..maybe 10mm at closest bits, but that will change with whatever tyre/rim combo you choose.
Damper wise I think I’ve decided on making a reducing shim to take a lyrik charger 2.1 rc2 damper.
At least when all this ends in disappointment I can just buy an old Lyrik and drop in a sweet damper!
Apologies the front shot is blurry, will post a better one later. I’d say clearance is ok, but I think the wild enduro is pretty big for a 2.4. Another wheel I have with a 2.6 WTB vigilante actually has a smaller outside diameter.
Apologies the front shot is blurry, will post a better one later. I’d say clearance is ok, but I think the wild enduro is pretty big for a 2.4. Another wheel I have with a 2.6 WTB vigilante actually has a smaller outside diameter.
Looks rad. Even more so you can fit a large volume 27.5" tyre in a 26" fork that isn't a 2.1 inch tyre. Mind you the Totem was designed to take a 26x2.8 tyre anyway.
Apologies the front shot is blurry, will post a better one later. I’d say clearance is ok, but I think the wild enduro is pretty big for a 2.4. Another wheel I have with a 2.6 WTB vigilante actually has a smaller outside diameter.
Looks awesome, to be perfect if I were you I would try to anodize the stanchions in black
I just rebuilt the airspring of my fork cleaned everything up and put the correct amount of oil in and sram buttered the dust wipers, but now the fork feels kinda sticky any ideas on what would cause thatm
I just rebuilt the airspring of my fork cleaned everything up and put the correct amount of oil in and sram buttered the dust wipers, but now the fork feels kinda sticky any ideas on what would cause thatm
Did you put SRAM butter on the air piston? And turn your fork upside down to let oil run over the bushing
Thank you greatly for the help just have one more problem, my low speed compression know won't turn. I took off the knobs to clean the damper a bit and when I put them back on it won't turn. This problem has been solved earlier in the form but that solution did not fix anything for me. I have taken off the knobs before with no problems I don't know what is going on. Thoughts anyone? Thanks