RockShox TOTEM / LYRIK discussion thread

PB Forum :: Downhill
RockShox TOTEM / LYRIK discussion thread
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Posted: Jul 23, 2020 at 8:38 Quote
Blackmetalgoat wrote:
talkingspoon wrote:
Blackmetalgoat wrote:


Yes, ive seen ut before , but my question is will the damper fit on my forks , and what exactly does the floodgate do ?

Thanks.

Basically, floodgate is an adjustable "lockout". If you have the mission control DH damper already, it comes without the floodgate. Alot of guys will take the floodgate out, thus making it a mission control DH damper. Minus the rebound side of things
Ok , but will it completly lock the fork or just meke it stiffer .
If it just gets stiffer can i run it on for big drops ?
Thanks.

It's a threshold adjustment. If you exert enough force into the damper it will bypass you're compression circuit to save your wrists. More flood gate means you need more force to bypass the damper. All totem chassis are same will fit no issue.

Posted: Jul 23, 2020 at 17:23 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
Blackmetalgoat wrote:
talkingspoon wrote:


Basically, floodgate is an adjustable "lockout". If you have the mission control DH damper already, it comes without the floodgate. Alot of guys will take the floodgate out, thus making it a mission control DH damper. Minus the rebound side of things
Ok , but will it completly lock the fork or just meke it stiffer .
If it just gets stiffer can i run it on for big drops ?
Thanks.

Thanks , btw have any of you guys tried the enduro seals ?

It's a threshold adjustment. If you exert enough force into the damper it will bypass you're compression circuit to save your wrists. More flood gate means you need more force to bypass the damper. All totem chassis are same will fit no issue.

Posted: Jul 24, 2020 at 17:37 Quote
Have any of you guys tried the blue enduro seals for the totem ?

Posted: Sep 8, 2020 at 11:50 Quote
Looks like Enduro Fork Seals is now offering a new kind of seal kit on their site.

https://www.enduroforkseals.com/products/front-suspension/ari_ariete_fork_seals/

These sound interesting. I'll probably try them out the next time I rebuild my Lyriks.

Posted: Sep 12, 2020 at 13:15 Quote
60 USD for shipping 100 grams worth of stuff from US to Europe. LOLZ.

Posted: Oct 12, 2020 at 8:22 Quote
I'm trying to find a part number for the oring/ rebuild kit for a 2009 Rock Shox Lyrik 2 step.I've looked and it's a hard one to find. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Posted: Oct 12, 2020 at 13:28 Quote
coleboyb wrote:
I'm trying to find a part number for the oring/ rebuild kit for a 2009 Rock Shox Lyrik 2 step.I've looked and it's a hard one to find. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
shoot sram a message over facebook they usually respond in a day

Posted: Oct 12, 2020 at 17:23 Quote
I did shoot them a Facebook message and they have disabled it ????. Not the answer I was looking for.. I just want to make sure I order the right stuff

Posted: Oct 12, 2020 at 18:09 Quote
coleboyb wrote:
I did shoot them a Facebook message and they have disabled it ????. Not the answer I was looking for.. I just want to make sure I order the right stuff

They will reply I just asked them a question the other day about my rear shock

Posted: Oct 13, 2020 at 7:45 Quote
Try this part..(from the small parts catalog 2011)

11.4015.465.010 Service Kit 2 Step Air - Lyrik New (includes...)

https://www.bicyclehero.com/au/rockshox-lyrik-2step-air-service-kit-11-4015-465-010.html

Posted: Oct 13, 2020 at 16:56 Quote
Sram just replied to me, and yes that is the correct part number Mike87. Thanks everyone!

Posted: Oct 13, 2020 at 16:58 Quote
Sram just replied to me, and yes that is the correct part number Mike87. Thanks everyone!

Posted: Oct 22, 2020 at 11:56 Quote
Has anyone else experienced a loss in small bump sensitivity after upgrading to the new debonair spring?. I have a set of 2020 lyrik ultimates that I was having the old suck down issue with so I thought i’d swap the spring out for the new one. I’m running 5psi lower than I did on the pervious spring and it still feels a lot harder to break away than the old one did!. Anyone got any suggestions? I’ve tried it with my old compression settings right back to full open and even full open it still seems too hard.

Posted: Oct 22, 2020 at 22:50 Quote
davieangel87 wrote:
Has anyone else experienced a loss in small bump sensitivity after upgrading to the new debonair spring?. I have a set of 2020 lyrik ultimates that I was having the old suck down issue with so I thought i’d swap the spring out for the new one. I’m running 5psi lower than I did on the pervious spring and it still feels a lot harder to break away than the old one did!. Anyone got any suggestions? I’ve tried it with my old compression settings right back to full open and even full open it still seems too hard.

The way to fix it is switch back to the old air spring which is actually a better system. The suck down really isn't an issue... its a few mm at the top of travel that make no difference when you are actually riding and basically creates a pneumatic top out. RS intentionally made it that way so they could market and sell their "improved" system next year, so they can make more money off of aftermarket parts but of course the "improved" system will be "improved" the year after and in this case it's a bunch of BS from RS marketing department as its a big step backwards. The new air spring moves the piston so that it sits at the equalization port at top out, vs the old one would let the piston drop down below it. Having the piston sit at the equalization port means that the negative chamber will never balance the force from the positive chamber and essentially creates a preload effect which is undesirable. The preload effect comes from the fact that the area of the piston that the air pressure can act on in the negative chamber is less than the positive chamber as there is the shaft that goes to the bottom of the fork taking up that area on the piston. If you have say 70 psi in the fork there is 8.4 pounds of force that has to be overcome just to get the fork moving as the air in the negative chamber can act on the same area of the piston as the positive chamber LESS the area taken up by the shaft connected (10mm dia) so the force provided is less. When the piston is allowed to pass below the equalization port the pressure in the negative chamber then becomes greater than the positive chamber and you can get a net zero force which is the way the "old" spring works and is much better as it provides a spring curve that is more resembling of a coil, with a softer beginning and more support in the middle of travel. The new spring adds harshness at the beginning of the stroke and reduces support in the middle of the travel.


 


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