Banshee Legend Mk II

PB Forum :: Bikes, Parts, and Gear
Banshee Legend Mk II
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Posted: Apr 14, 2017 at 8:30 Quote
is swapping a 26" over to a 650b as easy as a new triangle and new fork? I was going to sell mine but maybe I'll keep it if that's the case.

Posted: Apr 14, 2017 at 9:52 Quote
It is in fact that easy.

Posted: Apr 14, 2017 at 13:20 Quote
If you have a mk3, yes. It's most likely not possible with a mk2 frame, if it's the black/green in your photos you are thinking about.

Posted: Apr 15, 2017 at 7:50 Quote
It is not possible on the mk2 frame. Mk2 and mk3 is very different. Might look similar at distance. But every tube is basically changed. Angles etc. Mk2 has round downtube. Mk3 has square dontube. Slimmed rear triangle. Lowered toptube. I could go on. And it is allso noticeable longer than mk2. Very stable indeed.

Posted: Apr 15, 2017 at 14:20 Quote
Ah damn. Though I could save a few k.

Posted: Jul 20, 2017 at 22:44 Quote
Wondering if you guy can answer a quick question. What torque should the rear bolts be that are used to mount the fox coil shock ?

Posted: Jul 20, 2017 at 23:50 Quote
mazdacub wrote:
Wondering if you guy can answer a quick question. What torque should the rear bolts be that are used to mount the fox coil shock ?

Hi. Should be 12Nm. On both bolts.

Posted: Jul 21, 2017 at 6:39 Quote
mayhemsport wrote:
mazdacub wrote:
Wondering if you guy can answer a quick question. What torque should the rear bolts be that are used to mount the fox coil shock ?

Hi. Should be 12Nm. On both bolts.

thanks. I was wondering because when I tightened the shock ends the shock moves when loading and unloading the suspension. Im assuming the bolt is not actually the pivot but it clamps tight on the long sleeve and the shock end then is to pivot around the sleeve right? If i tighten the bolt enough to clamp in the sleeve the shock is very tight and does not pivot freely and makes the suspension feel tight.

Posted: Jul 23, 2017 at 0:25 Quote
mazdacub wrote:
mayhemsport wrote:
mazdacub wrote:
Wondering if you guy can answer a quick question. What torque should the rear bolts be that are used to mount the fox coil shock ?

Hi. Should be 12Nm. On both bolts.

thanks. I was wondering because when I tightened the shock ends the shock moves when loading and unloading the suspension. Im assuming the bolt is not actually the pivot but it clamps tight on the long sleeve and the shock end then is to pivot around the sleeve right? If i tighten the bolt enough to clamp in the sleeve the shock is very tight and does not pivot freely and makes the suspension feel tight.

Most likely are your shock bushings not the correct size. As they are supposed to go freely on them. Its prob not more than 0.1mm to tight. Using a bushing that is whole with just spacers on the side is better than those two piece. Usually due to those two piece being of aluminium and the other is steel or something harder than aluminium. Speaking from experience. We have very wet conditions, where changing sometimes multiple times a year is necessary. Depending if it rains allot. But allso greasing them is important. Ive seen people claiming running them dry is god enough is a load of..... Grease WILL prolong their lifespan. i have had customers wearing out their bushings because the other shop claimed they can be run dry. But they get hot and wear 10 times faster than normal. The bushing i am thinking of is the one in this photo

If you have to tighten really hard to remove slack. Then as mentioned the bushings are the wrong size. 22.2mm is the correct size to use. They should slide in with a little resistance. Not much. But enough for it to be no movement on the bushings side to side.

Posted: Jul 23, 2017 at 4:41 Quote
mayhemsport wrote:
mazdacub wrote:
mayhemsport wrote:


Hi. Should be 12Nm. On both bolts.

thanks. I was wondering because when I tightened the shock ends the shock moves when loading and unloading the suspension. Im assuming the bolt is not actually the pivot but it clamps tight on the long sleeve and the shock end then is to pivot around the sleeve right? If i tighten the bolt enough to clamp in the sleeve the shock is very tight and does not pivot freely and makes the suspension feel tight.

Most likely are your shock bushings not the correct size. As they are supposed to go freely on them. Its prob not more than 0.1mm to tight. Using a bushing that is whole with just spacers on the side is better than those two piece. Usually due to those two piece being of aluminium and the other is steel or something harder than aluminium. Speaking from experience. We have very wet conditions, where changing sometimes multiple times a year is necessary. Depending if it rains allot. But allso greasing them is important. Ive seen people claiming running them dry is god enough is a load of..... Grease WILL prolong their lifespan. i have had customers wearing out their bushings because the other shop claimed they can be run dry. But they get hot and wear 10 times faster than normal. The bushing i am thinking of is the one in this photo

If you have to tighten really hard to remove slack. Then as mentioned the bushings are the wrong size. 22.2mm is the correct size to use. They should slide in with a little resistance. Not much. But enough for it to be no movement on the bushings side to side.

Using the same exact bushings as the picture with a bit of grease from day one. Theyre really smooth and ni resistance. For about 3 years riding once a week i replaced the eyelet bushing just once.

Posted: Jul 23, 2017 at 6:37 Quote
krisdaphrk wrote:
mayhemsport wrote:
mazdacub wrote:


thanks. I was wondering because when I tightened the shock ends the shock moves when loading and unloading the suspension. Im assuming the bolt is not actually the pivot but it clamps tight on the long sleeve and the shock end then is to pivot around the sleeve right? If i tighten the bolt enough to clamp in the sleeve the shock is very tight and does not pivot freely and makes the suspension feel tight.

Most likely are your shock bushings not the correct size. As they are supposed to go freely on them. Its prob not more than 0.1mm to tight. Using a bushing that is whole with just spacers on the side is better than those two piece. Usually due to those two piece being of aluminium and the other is steel or something harder than aluminium. Speaking from experience. We have very wet conditions, where changing sometimes multiple times a year is necessary. Depending if it rains allot. But allso greasing them is important. Ive seen people claiming running them dry is god enough is a load of..... Grease WILL prolong their lifespan. i have had customers wearing out their bushings because the other shop claimed they can be run dry. But they get hot and wear 10 times faster than normal. The bushing i am thinking of is the one in this photo

If you have to tighten really hard to remove slack. Then as mentioned the bushings are the wrong size. 22.2mm is the correct size to use. They should slide in with a little resistance. Not much. But enough for it to be no movement on the bushings side to side.

Using the same exact bushings as the picture with a bit of grease from day one. Theyre really smooth and ni resistance. For about 3 years riding once a week i replaced the eyelet bushing just once.


Then they might be cut to short as mentioned. And the side spacers are clamping on the shock.

Posted: Jul 26, 2017 at 6:59 Quote
The axle pin in the picture was very very tight in the eyelet bushing and had to be pressed out in a vice. I was unable to remove it by hand. It had a black film on the pin like a tar. cleaned them up and was able to almost get them in fully by hand. Now i can tighten the eyelet bolt to the recommended spec and all seems to be rotating better with no movement.

I was thinking about ordering a set of the pin roller bearing kits that RWC makes.

http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id275.html

Posted: Jul 27, 2017 at 1:38 Quote
mazdacub wrote:
The axle pin in the picture was very very tight in the eyelet bushing and had to be pressed out in a vice. I was unable to remove it by hand. It had a black film on the pin like a tar. cleaned them up and was able to almost get them in fully by hand. Now i can tighten the eyelet bolt to the recommended spec and all seems to be rotating better with no movement.

I was thinking about ordering a set of the pin roller bearing kits that RWC makes.

http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id275.html

Could be smooth with bearing bushings. But lifetime on them i am a little sceptical on. Tiny needle bearings never last long. Keep them well lubricated.

Posted: Jan 29, 2018 at 2:06 Quote
hello
I have a 2015 banshee legend and I would like to know if its possible to buy de 27.5 rear triangle in it to use 27.5 wheel, or if there are any issuess

Posted: Jan 29, 2018 at 6:42 Quote
nirvaner wrote:
hello
I have a 2015 banshee legend and I would like to know if its possible to buy de 27.5 rear triangle in it to use 27.5 wheel, or if there are any issuess

As i mentioned in youre message. It is not possible if you have a mk2. The 650b rear triangle is only for the latest mk3 model. There was a short period a 26" mk3. That could use the 650b rear triangle as the front one is the same.


 
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