Post your Octanes

PB Forum :: Dirt Jumping & Street
Post your Octanes
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flag cjc515
Posted: Feb 17, 2018 at 12:34 Quote
Just ordered my octane one void this week and I'm super stoked to get started. Just want some advice on the rest of my build. This is my first DJ so I'm looking for stuff that can take a beating and works with the 2017 void frame. Just not sure where to start. I'm looking for advice on the following parts.
Headset
Cranks
Wheelset
flag Aaronz25RS
Posted: Feb 17, 2018 at 14:42 Quote
Headset : whatever you get will take the beating and youll need a straight steerer fork (manitou circus expert)

Cranks : Profile - Profile external euro BB

Wheels: Spank or Azonic
flag jespinal
Posted: Feb 17, 2018 at 14:46 Quote
If I was you I'd go o1 cranks (they come with a long enough spindle and bottom bracket)

Stem wise if you want to go rise and get an alu bar most bmx brands sell 25.4 clamping these days

As for wheels I always got what I had laying around which led to a shit ton of broken spokes
flag Upstatenoz
Posted: Feb 18, 2018 at 4:35 Quote
I'm running the Deity vendetta cranks, 170 with the 153mm spindle. Have no issues with clearance. Also used their Embassey BB. As for headset I got an FSA impact, 45/45 campy from my local shop at about 30 bucks. Wheels I'm running the Spank spoon 32s, like em so far, not the lightest wheel but that is my only gripe. Grab their SS kit and your good to go.
flag Slie
Posted: Feb 23, 2018 at 16:24 Quote
deleted wrong thread
flag krib
Posted: Mar 1, 2018 at 10:11 Quote
I cant figure out why the chainline wont get right on this one,
Could the bb shell or dropouts be not straight?

Rear spacing is 135mm and cog is 18mm off so if my calculation is right cog is 49.5mm from centerline and so is front sprocket.
5.5mm bearing ball on both sides between dropout and axle, and tyre seems to be centered between seatstays.

I had less spacers between bb and sprocket earlier and chain was just the same way.

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flag Slie
Posted: Mar 1, 2018 at 20:23 Quote
Little confused by the measurements in your pics? It shows the front at 47, not 49.5 and the rear at 15.5 not 18.
Judging by the pics the sprocket is 47mm from center and cog is 52 from center.

Aside from that, is the cog straight with the sprocket? The chain looks curved in the pic, as if the front of the cog is pointed towards the frame and the back of the sprocket is also pointed towards the frame instead of being flush with each other.
flag k-dubbb
Posted: Mar 10, 2018 at 7:34 Quote
krib wrote:
I cant figure out why the chainline wont get right on this one,
Could the bb shell or dropouts be not straight?

Rear spacing is 135mm and cog is 18mm off so if my calculation is right cog is 49.5mm from centerline and so is front sprocket.
5.5mm bearing ball on both sides between dropout and axle, and tyre seems to be centered between seatstays.

I had less spacers between bb and sprocket earlier and chain was just the same way.

photo

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This makes sense, my zircus fights to keep the chain on when it isn't humming tight.....ordered chain tugs.
flag krib
Posted: Mar 10, 2018 at 9:41 Quote
I put 5mm ball on the brake side and left the 5.5mm on drive side. Chainline is little better now but its still not right.
Chain tension varies like the sprocket would be elliptical rather than round, ive tried with two sprockets and its the same on both. Other is Dartmoor alu sprocket with bolt and atm i have crmo spline drive sprocket on.
It doesnt really affect my riding but surely feels like there will be preliminary wear for sprocket/cog/rear hub
flag Doggin
Posted: Mar 10, 2018 at 13:58 Quote
Chain tugs on a zircus are 100% necessary. My chain was always slacking. Got a couple of white gusset’s had to grind a little down, and mount them upside down, but it works for me. Lol
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flag Aaronz25RS
Posted: Mar 10, 2018 at 14:19 Quote
Ive never had a chain issue with my Zircus, but you want the sprocket teeth as close to the frame as possible. I can't tell what you've got goin on from your pics, but it looks as if the chain tapers outward from back to front..
flag krib
Posted: Mar 11, 2018 at 11:41 Quote
I had it first so close to frame that sprocket bolt scratched paint from chainstay tube.

Ive tried about every possible spacer setting and it looks like that always, just like you see it tapers outward from back to front no matter how close or far the sprocket is from frame.

I might try running this one geared after all as im about to build 24" capital soon.

Doggin i bought Dartmoor chaintugs when i built this one, they dont fit as they are made for thinner dropouts so i settled on bearing balls for now. They should work just as well but only with 0.5mm increments instead of screw adjustment.
flag allsk8sno
Posted: Mar 11, 2018 at 14:31 Quote
I run a 36T front on my zircus, chain-line is great, so maybe just move the front out further ?
flag Adamrolston
Posted: Mar 14, 2018 at 9:31 Quote
@Doggin where did you get those chain tensioners? I should grab a pair in black if possible.
flag Doggin
Posted: Mar 14, 2018 at 11:18 Quote
Adamrolston wrote:
@Doggin where did you get those chain tensioners? I should grab a pair in black if possible.
My lbs bad them, but they are pretty common. Gusset makes them.

 


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