Dawn Till Dusk (OVER 9000 PAGES!!!)

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Dawn Till Dusk (OVER 9000 PAGES!!!)
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flag brodoyouevenbike
Posted: Jan 6, 2020 at 12:58 Quote
I got one of those cheap droppers a few years ago and it held up fine even through some crashes that destroyed the seat(still going strong, but my ex kept it). No need to get the super pricey ones if you wanna keep the price low. Just make sure the frame has holes for an internal dropper(it should, but do double check) because otherwise, you'll need to buy an external one.
flag tom666
Posted: Jan 6, 2020 at 13:57 Quote
luke2012 wrote:
tom666 wrote:
luke2012 wrote:
Great, that gives me some confidence, thank you! Sent off for the cert for the ride to work scheme.

I suppose it’s better than jumping head first into it with a bike that’s way more than needed...

Yeah man, nice.

If you're getting out for the first time in a few years it will be more than good enough to get you going.

If your trails are a long climb followed by a long descent the fixed seatpost will probably be fine - you just need to drop the post with the QR clamp which doesn't take long. However, if your trails are more undulating or your descents are short (quite common in the UK) then a dropper might be something you want to look into quite quickly! They really make a big difference and once you get used to one it's hard to imagine riding without one!

I think a dropper is going to be the first
Investment to be honest, hopefully before it arrives. and then just little bits as and when.

Your help is really appreciated man, thanks.

No worries man Salute

I would agree with buying a dropper immediately. You won't regret it.

The frame definitely has routing for a dropper btw, so no worries about that.

Also, how tall are you and what size are you thinking?
flag luke2012
Posted: Jan 6, 2020 at 14:49 Quote
Sweet, and I’m 6ft, was going to opt for a large.
flag jespinal
Posted: Jan 7, 2020 at 2:09 Quote
tom666 wrote:
luke2012 wrote:
Workplace introduced a limit to the cycle to work scheme on 2nd of jan of £1k. Had no idea until I started back on the 6th...

All I can find within budget is the Vitus mythique.

Does anything scream “Don’t buy this.”


For £999 it's a great bike. It will get you out on the trails and there's nothing needs to go immediately.

Very nice frame and good tires. Drivetrain, brakes and wheels are fine. Suspension is the obvious weakness in the spec, along with the lack of dropper post - but you can upgrade that in time if you feel the need.

For example you could pick up a 140 travel rockshox yari (can find them for about £350 online some places!) and sell that 130 x-fusion fork to recover some of the cost of the upgrade. You could also look out for a monarch shock on the buysell - the mythique comes with 200x57mm which is the most standard shock size. Droppers you can get for just over £100 on crc.

I reckon go for it Smile
what about the rockrider am100?
flag luke2012
Posted: Jan 7, 2020 at 3:35 Quote
Rock rider is a HT I’m looking for a full sus, but thanks for the recommendation Salute
flag jespinal
Posted: Jan 7, 2020 at 4:44 Quote
luke2012 wrote:
Rock rider is a HT I’m looking for a full sus, but thanks for the recommendation Salute
am100s
flag tom666
Posted: Jan 7, 2020 at 10:06 Quote
luke2012 wrote:
Sweet, and I’m 6ft, was going to opt for a large.

Sounds good. That should work well. When you get a dropper go for 150mm drop at least. You basically want as much drop as your height and frame design permits. 150mm will absolutely definitely work. 170 will probably go, but I wouldn't bet my life on it because of that kink in the seat tube. Would have to look into that further.
flag luke2012
Posted: Jan 7, 2020 at 11:46 Quote
Thanks for the advice, was looking at some earlier and was unsure...

Guys, tubeless over tubes, yay or nay? That bikes “Tubeless ready” whatever that means.

Apologies for all the questions at once, just ordering stuff with it all in one go.
flag tom666
Posted: Jan 7, 2020 at 14:24 Quote
Tubeless is absolutely the way. Tires just work a tonne better tubeless than they do with tubes. They conform to the ground better and small punctures seal pretty much instantly - you may not even realise there was an issue. You can also run low pressures without pinch flatting. I run 25psi or less now pretty much always - even at 95kg bw. The grip is epic compared to what I used to get.


To set up tubeless you need tubeless ready rims and tires (which I think you have!), you need your rims taped with tubeless tape (don't know if your rims will come tubeless taped already - they might!) and you need tubeless valves and sealant. There's tonnes of brands offering tubeless kit. I personally have stans rims, stans valves, stans tape and stans sealant. All works really well. Shout outs to stans.


You also need a way of rapidly inflating the tire to get it to seat. An air compressor is by far the best way. Next best is a tubeless booster or pump with an inbuilt one (I use one of these). Basically these allow you to pump up a canister and then release all the air at once to rapidly inflate your tire. CO2 cartridges also work I believe but I've never tried to seat using a cartridge myself, so I can't comment on how well that works. Alternatively, if you're lucky - they sometimes go with just a track pump. If the tires and rims are clean and you do a good job of getting the tire into roughly the right position sometimes you can get it with just a mad effort on the track pump lol


You're still best to carry a spare tube in your riding pack if you're going out a long way from base - but fingers crossed (touch wood n that) I super rarely have any issues! Haven't had a ride stopped for a puncture in quite some time!
flag brodoyouevenbike
Posted: Jan 8, 2020 at 1:37 Quote
tom666 wrote:
I run 25psi or less now pretty much always - even at 95kg bw.

Bruh, I never understood this, don't your tyres get sent into another dimension every time you take a turn? Anything less than 31psi in the rear and the rims get way too beaten up, makes me uneasy.
flag dkidd
O+
Posted: Jan 8, 2020 at 7:18 Quote
brodoyouevenbike wrote:
tom666 wrote:
I run 25psi or less now pretty much always - even at 95kg bw.

Bruh, I never understood this, don't your tyres get sent into another dimension every time you take a turn? Anything less than 31psi in the rear and the rims get way too beaten up, makes me uneasy.

Bruh. Do you even cushcore?
flag brodoyouevenbike
Posted: Jan 8, 2020 at 10:43 Quote
Can't justify 100 bucks for a pool noodle
flag tom666
Posted: Jan 8, 2020 at 13:44 Quote
brodoyouevenbike wrote:
tom666 wrote:
I run 25psi or less now pretty much always - even at 95kg bw.

Bruh, I never understood this, don't your tyres get sent into another dimension every time you take a turn? Anything less than 31psi in the rear and the rims get way too beaten up, makes me uneasy.

If you've got wide rims and you're not purposely trying to schralp corners you can get it away with it easy. It's so worth it for the grip.


If you have narrower rims and/or you're purposely trying to get the tire to squirm you might start to get issues.


Also depends a lot on the tires and whether or not you run inserts.


When I go to Morzine and I know I'm gonna be blowing up turns all day I'll probably go up to like 27/28 in the rear.
flag jespinal
Posted: Jan 10, 2020 at 2:01 Quote
brodoyouevenbike wrote:
Can't justify 100 bucks for a pool noodle
I think someone succesfully did it
flag luke2012
Posted: Jan 14, 2020 at 11:44 Quote
Bike update:

Still waiting for it to be signed off...CRC have the next model up which has 140mm rear travel and 140mm front suspension AND A DROPPER, for £1160...Going to see if there’s any give in the cap and try and get that one...

£160 more than the 130mm rear travel, 130mm front travel, non dropper model I’ve opted for as it fits within the £1k cap coming in at £999.99...

If not possible, and cheaper recommendations than the £119.99 brand x dropper crc have?

 


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