Rp23 VS dhx5 air

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Posted: Sep 28, 2010 at 7:01 Quote
Hi. I want your opinion Big Grin

My trail bike is a 2008 Transition covert and I want build lighter....but I ride agressive all mountain with this bike...I check for remplace my dhx5 coil for a air shock. What is the best for me between a dhx 5 air or rp23 ? I like climb but I like more descent too!

Thanks for your comment..

Alex

O+
Posted: Sep 28, 2010 at 7:41 Quote
RP23 hands down...
Much better for the ups and solid on the downs...
The DHX is great as a coil replacement, and for big hits... But is not very good for the ups.
Also, the RP23 has a nice on/off feature for the Propedal. Its either all open for DH or set to on for climbing.
It lighter as well.

Unless you do serious freeride, The DHX is not the way to go.

Just make sure you get the HV (High Volume) version of the RP23.

Also, I think the 2011 version will come with remote adjustability.

Posted: Sep 28, 2010 at 11:58 Quote
solid comment!

thanks a lot!!! my first choice is the rp23 for the propedal lever...

Posted: Sep 28, 2010 at 22:07 Quote
Just to add to Kona's comments:

I agree - RP23 is an excellent shock! I run it on my Giant AC 90% of the time and love it. I only run an old Van RC for harsh shuttle rides of days at the bike park.

Posted: Sep 29, 2010 at 11:41 Quote
the biggest problem with measuring a RP23 vs. DHX Air shocks is that you need to run both on the same frame to really understand the difference

this was my 2009 Devinci Hectik LTD with DHX 5 Air shock

photo

the frame had great potential but the shock totally sucked - terrible mid stroke control, sat back too deep in the travel with no extension or support, no "pop" on jumps, felt vague and mushy unless the air pressure was cranked up way above the sag setting

this is my 2010 Devinci Hectik with RP23 XV BV

photo

the new shock on this new frame, its totally transformed the ride - firm under power, lots of "pop" off the lips, holds its height in fast berm corners or deep impacts, much better traction and control

lets the frame reach its full potential, no complaints from me, and its been used for DH racing with no issues at all!

photo

Posted: Oct 4, 2010 at 3:57 Quote
hampsteadbandit wrote:
the biggest problem with measuring a RP23 vs. DHX Air shocks is that you need to run both on the same frame to really understand the difference

this was my 2009 Devinci Hectik LTD with DHX 5 Air shock

photo

the frame had great potential but the shock totally sucked - terrible mid stroke control, sat back too deep in the travel with no extension or support, no "pop" on jumps, felt vague and mushy unless the air pressure was cranked up way above the sag setting

this is my 2010 Devinci Hectik with RP23 XV BV

photo

the new shock on this new frame, its totally transformed the ride - firm under power, lots of "pop" off the lips, holds its height in fast berm corners or deep impacts, much better traction and control

lets the frame reach its full potential, no complaints from me, and its been used for DH racing with no issues at all!

photo


just had to add that i agree with the above, i ride an Intense 6.6, it came with the DHX4 and i replaced it with the RP23 soon after, here in Africa there's no such thing as chair lifts so climbing is a must for any decent desent, so if have to peddle to get to the adrenaline then there's no contest

Posted: Apr 2, 2011 at 13:48 Quote
Question about the progressiveness of each-

I have a Marin Quake that is running a Marzocchi Roco TST R. I like the shock. The problem is the suspension design on the Quake frame is very progressive, as is the Roco shock which ends with the bike feeling like it has 4" of travel, very little long travel plushness feel. I need a shock that has a very linear travel.

Everyone seems to run the DHX air on theirs and says it feels great. Is this because the DHX has a dead midstroke with little ramp up (the shocks flaw working to the frames advantage)? I want to either get a DHX or RP23 for it, I just want to make sure I don't end up with the same issue of the RP23 is too progressive.

Posted: Apr 2, 2011 at 20:39 Quote
ninjatarian wrote:
Question about the progressiveness of each-

Everyone seems to run the DHX air on theirs and says it feels great. Is this because the DHX has a dead midstroke with little ramp up (the shocks flaw working to the frames advantage)? I want to either get a DHX or RP23 for it, I just want to make sure I don't end up with the same issue of the RP23 is too progressive.

Look into RP23 EV (Expanded Volume), which is a RP23 with a larger Air Sleeve to accommodate more air to provide a more linear ramp up.

Posted: Apr 3, 2011 at 3:45 Quote
Chesterboy wrote:
ninjatarian wrote:
Question about the progressiveness of each-

Everyone seems to run the DHX air on theirs and says it feels great. Is this because the DHX has a dead midstroke with little ramp up (the shocks flaw working to the frames advantage)? I want to either get a DHX or RP23 for it, I just want to make sure I don't end up with the same issue of the RP23 is too progressive.

Look into RP23 EV (Expanded Volume), which is a RP23 with a larger Air Sleeve to accommodate more air to provide a more linear ramp up.
RP23 EV is in treks
fox don't sell that to users do they?

Posted: Apr 4, 2011 at 12:51 Quote
I have a Corsair Marque with a 2010 Fox RP23 Rear Shock, however, it feels awfull and wallows a lot.
I've tried shimming the Air Sleeve as per the MTBR mod thread but it hasn't made a lot of difference, the bike just sinks slowly when you sit on it, although I've played around with the rebound settings it just doesn't rebound fast enough, it just feels slow, dead and wallowy.
Does anyone have any advice/experience with something similar? could it be down to the 2.1 leverage ratio or could a Push Tune sort the problem out?
Any advice very gratefully received.

Posted: Apr 5, 2011 at 11:28 Quote
dodd4721 wrote:
I have a Corsair Marque with a 2010 Fox RP23 Rear Shock, however, it feels awfull and wallows a lot.
I've tried shimming the Air Sleeve as per the MTBR mod thread but it hasn't made a lot of difference, the bike just sinks slowly when you sit on it, although I've played around with the rebound settings it just doesn't rebound fast enough, it just feels slow, dead and wallowy.
Does anyone have any advice/experience with something similar? could it be down to the 2.1 leverage ratio or could a Push Tune sort the problem out?
Any advice very gratefully received.
Does it still rebound too slow with rebound at its fastest setting?
Have you tried increasing air pressure?

Posted: Apr 7, 2011 at 16:22 Quote
photo
the rp23 bv is the better shock, i have 2010 rp23 bv on my giant trance x it felt shit when i first got it so i had it pushed they take out the boost valve a change the shims it gets 10 out of 10 now what about cane creak s double barrel thats one hell of a shock
dodd4721 get your rp23 pushed it makes one hell of a impact on it

Posted: Apr 9, 2011 at 20:20 Quote
I have a DHX air 4.0 and i really don't like it. I have to run at least 180psi for my 130lb self for it to feel okay and i still blow through the travel, id imagine the DHX air 5.0 feels the same. Id recommend the RP23, my friend has it on his trance and it feels quite a bit better than mine.
photo

O+
Posted: Aug 5, 2012 at 11:06 Quote
I have not ridden both shocks on the same frame, however, I do have experience with both. On my 2007 RM Slayer I had a DHX 5.0 Air. I spent more time than I would have liked attempting to dial in the shock never getting it just right.

Fox Float RP32 upgraded by PUSH Industries.

I rode an RP23 on my 2010 Giant Trance. I had the shock custom valved at Push Industries with the big hit kit. The RP23 was very pedal friendly and I rarely ever felt the bottom of it. I used the pro pedal switch all the time with my Maestro suspension much to my satisfaction.

All cleaned up and lubed up ready to tackle the Specialized Enduro Stage Race this weekend.

This year I'm riding a RP2 with DRCV tuning on my Trek Remedy 9.7. I rode an enduro race last weekend bombing through all the technical terrain, jump courses, and drops without ever bottoming out. This bike is exteremely stiff and pedal strokes are immediately transfered into forward momentum through the climbs. I rarely use the propedal because the suspension always seems to be working with me whether I'm going up or down.

In summary. Geometry (frames) and tuning matter. I have had great success with my Fox Float family of rear suspension shocks.

Posted: Sep 20, 2012 at 10:44 Quote
Current set-up;

2010 Transition Covert medium
Fox 36 RC2 / DHX 5.0

I have ridden both shocks

The DHX works great as an all mountain set-up – in fact I think it is better for the type of riding we do around here (North Shore, Fromme/Seymour)

On the ups the DHX is a pound heavier – but so what! – get more fit and you wont feel it. As for pro-pedal, I don’t really bother adjusting this anymore – I found a setting I like and just leave it

On the down there is no comparison – the DHX smooths everything out and you can really enjoy the fast bits.

That all being said – I have recently gotten into longer rides on less extreme terrain which I have the RP23 for – it does have a more stable pedal platform for spinning

Both shocks are great – the DHX is for gravity and the RP is for XC (or for a really light footed and smooth rider in any terrain).

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