HELP! changing Fox float (fork) seals.

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HELP! changing Fox float (fork) seals.
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Posted: Dec 3, 2010 at 21:14 Quote
alight cool, thanks for the help!

Posted: Dec 4, 2010 at 2:05 Quote
j-teeple wrote:
Precisely. If you're just going work on the seals you don't have to touch anything near the top other than letting the air out of your fork.

You don't have to take the air out. In fact the air keeps the pushrod extended when you slide the lowers back on so you only have to concentrate on one rod coming out the other side.

The slight downside is that when you are taking the lowers off and you are breaking that seal with the wooden mallet, it is a little bit trickier. The plus side is you don't have to remeber or take notes on the original pressure.

Posted: Dec 4, 2010 at 17:27 Quote
alright guys i did all the work and took it out for a test. it doesn't seem like the fork is rebounding all the way. it rebounds then kinda leaves the last 3-5mm in the lowers. any thoughts?

Posted: Dec 4, 2010 at 18:01 Quote
starcbiker wrote:
alright guys i did all the work and took it out for a test. it doesn't seem like the fork is rebounding all the way. it rebounds then kinda leaves the last 3-5mm in the lowers. any thoughts?

a bit of stiction?

Posted: Dec 4, 2010 at 18:16 Quote
jon-15 wrote:
starcbiker wrote:
alright guys i did all the work and took it out for a test. it doesn't seem like the fork is rebounding all the way. it rebounds then kinda leaves the last 3-5mm in the lowers. any thoughts?

a bit of stiction?
hmm. perhaps. will this go away? the fork rebounds then if you hold the wheel down and pull on the arch the last bit comes out.

Posted: Dec 4, 2010 at 18:34 Quote
When I got my Float rebuilt it did the same. After and hour on the trail it was working fine.

Posted: Dec 4, 2010 at 18:48 Quote
i'll get some ride time on it and see how its going

O+
Posted: Dec 6, 2010 at 21:50 Quote
It's too bad me or the fox guy on here didn't get to ya before ya did the work. Stay away from Enduro seals- trust me on this one or use the search feature. those videos miss a couple ESSENTIAL steps like properly and fully draining the damper, you may still have a lot of old oil in there. If you take it apart again or are still having problems message me. I do a lot of these things

O+
Posted: Dec 8, 2010 at 12:30 Quote
I saw it, but I can only give my oppinion of Enduro seals so many times.......

Posted: Dec 8, 2010 at 13:47 Quote
Okay, I was recommended the Enduros by others and so far they have been okay. I've actually had stanchion rub in three months from the OEM seals, but that may have been due to super-dusty conditions (even though I clean the stnachions before every ride). That's why I thought I'd switch to the Enduros to see if they could stop the deterioration.

Sk8kid and nathan, I searched some of your comments and I won't ignore them. I'll remove them ASAP and go back to Fox seals.

My father once told me "A wise man surrounds himself with wiser men." No point doing that if you don't take their advice, huh?

Thanks dudes!

Posted: Dec 8, 2010 at 15:45 Quote
sk8kid33 wrote:
It's too bad me or the fox guy on here didn't get to ya before ya did the work. Stay away from Enduro seals- trust me on this one or use the search feature. those videos miss a couple ESSENTIAL steps like properly and fully draining the damper, you may still have a lot of old oil in there. If you take it apart again or are still having problems message me. I do a lot of these things

Do you think that the Fox anodising is "softer" than other brands, or thinner? We managed to rub the anodising off a set of Floats a couple of years ago, running standard Fox seals. But I think this was caused by my lack of understanding of how often you need to service forks when riding in dusty conditions. I have had a set of Enduro seals on my 07 Boxxers for a couple of years, and having learned my lesson, I service them about every 20 hours of riding (did 'em last night) and the staunchions are still perfect. If the Fox anodising is soft/thin, and we know the Enduro seals are a tighter fit than production seals, combine all this with a lack of service and the end result is premature wear of the staunchions.

Posted: Dec 18, 2010 at 9:07 Quote
hey guys. i realized the other day that i forgot to drain the damper when i changed oil. i'm also not getting full travel so i figure its because there is too much oil in there. i don't want to take the lowers off again as i dont want risk damaging the seals. someone recommended i just take the rebound side out by means of pulling the whole cartridge out. do i have to undo anything with the anodized top cap in order to pull the cartridge out? or do you go straight to using the socket wrench.

Posted: Dec 18, 2010 at 13:35 Quote
what year and model fork are these?

Posted: Dec 18, 2010 at 15:25 Quote
Remove the top cap then wrench it off and pull out the damper


 


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