Boxxer 2010 troubles

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Boxxer 2010 troubles
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flag PlumStick13-Magnus
Posted: Jan 21, 2011 at 9:34 Quote
right, ive just ogt some 2010 boxxer races. and for some reason they are only using about 7" of its travel and i dont know why, maybe too much oil in the compression cartidge.

if you have had this issue or know anything about it please let me know.
flag jagarcia89
O+
Posted: Jan 21, 2011 at 18:41 Quote
your gonna have to crack that thin open, it could be a few issues. Also on these forks keep in mind theres about a one inch bottom out elastomer. You may not be compressing that and need to go with a lighter one or remove it.
flag PlumStick13-Magnus
Posted: Jan 23, 2011 at 11:01 Quote
right so today, i got bored. flipped my bike upside down, took the lowers off and a load of oil came pissing out.

i thought, "oh shit" becasue i dont know what im doing when it comes to suspension. so i put the lowers back on, expecting to have to get them set away to get a proper service and no. they work perfect now, use all the travel

i guess there must have been too much oil in them?
flag singletracker
O+
Posted: Jan 23, 2011 at 11:06 Quote
If you removed your lowers and drained the oil, you should check the spec from Rock Shox, and make sure you put the proper level of oil back into the fork. Otherwise you risk damaging the fork by running it with improper levels of lubrication. If you don't understand how the fork operates, you probably shouldn't be taking it apart to begin with.
flag jagarcia89
O+
Posted: Jan 24, 2011 at 6:10 Quote
Yeah absolutely DO NOT ride the bike. Take it to a shop and have them do it. You will ruin your fork if you ride it
flag tom-barnett
Posted: Dec 2, 2011 at 6:50 Quote
hi guys,

I too have the same problem with my 2010 boxxer WC. they only use 7 inch of travel. I know what I am doing with forks so have taken them apart. put new o rings, oil and seals in (i didnt think any of this would solve the problem) but did it anyway.

still no luck though with increasing the travel to the specified 7.9" from rockshock. where abouts is this elastomer you mentioned? is it at the bottom of the lowers inside? and how do you cut it down? just chop it in half?

any advice on this would be great.

cheers guys
flag jpgauthier
Posted: Dec 2, 2011 at 7:13 Quote
First guy at the beginning you obviously dont konw what the f*ck you are doing so take it to your LBS.
@ the latter, whats the PSI at ?
flag jagarcia89
O+
Posted: Dec 2, 2011 at 7:50 Quote
tom-barnett wrote:
hi guys,

I too have the same problem with my 2010 boxxer WC. they only use 7 inch of travel. I know what I am doing with forks so have taken them apart. put new o rings, oil and seals in (i didnt think any of this would solve the problem) but did it anyway.

still no luck though with increasing the travel to the specified 7.9" from rockshock. where abouts is this elastomer you mentioned? is it at the bottom of the lowers inside? and how do you cut it down? just chop it in half?

any advice on this would be great.

cheers guys

its right under the top cap on the spring side. not sure if its on WCs of that year though.
flag tom-barnett
Posted: Dec 2, 2011 at 15:35 Quote
I am guessing the WC are different as they dont have a spring (sorry to point out the obvious lol) and I know what cap you mean from my old spring forks.

I had a thought - when all the air was out of my forks I could push them to the bottom and make them bottom out (this was only 7inches though). I checked the inside of the forks for anything dislodged and in the way (i.e bottom out stop plate - but it was right at the bottom and sitting flat etc.
So my thinking is that if its not bottoming out thats stopping the full travel (i.e the stantion cannot physically go any further into the lowers) then the lack of travel must be at the other end of the stroke (i.e the start)
SO....
I was thinking if I cut the top out bumper in half it would mean the fork can top out a bit further up and have a longer stroke.

I pulled both stantions to the top of their top out (max extension) and found that the oil (comp/rebound leg) was about 3/4 of an inch - 1 inch shorter in length. it seems very odd to me that rockshoxs would make one leg extend a different length to the other.

Before I go and cut up my top out bumper does anyone have any words of wisdom on this?
(I think I will try replacing the top out bumper with something smaller first just to be safe)

cheers
tom
flag jagarcia89
O+
Posted: Dec 3, 2011 at 19:54 Quote
it will extend longer and it's importain to set your spring side stanction extension first. This is because you have a top out spring on the air side, this is not the case on the damper side so you dont wanna top out on that thing.

as for safety, let all the air out. I like to remove the valve core just to be safe. Then remove the top cap. 24mm wrench I believe. pretty straight forward And you'll want the bottom out bumper, not the top out bumper, as I stated your fork needs the top out one, you'll damage it otherwise
flag tom-barnett
Posted: Dec 4, 2011 at 2:31 Quote
jagarcia89 wrote:
it will extend longer and it's importain to set your spring side stanction extension first. This is because you have a top out spring on the air side, this is not the case on the damper side so you dont wanna top out on that thing.

as for safety, let all the air out. I like to remove the valve core just to be safe. Then remove the top cap. 24mm wrench I believe. pretty straight forward And you'll want the bottom out bumper, not the top out bumper, as I stated your fork needs the top out one, you'll damage it otherwise

what you said in your first bit I totally agree with mate. i had them apart yesterday. you want to have a bit of extra travel in your oil leg so you top out on the rubber and not on the oil leg (metal on metal contact)

When you say "you'll want the top out bumper" do you mean thats the one I will want to cut down or thats the one I want to keep. I wasnt planning on removing it totally just cutting it down slightly. I have had some other people say cut down the bottom out bumper but the only bottom out bumper I could find in the air leg is a flat 3-4mm elastomer disc and there is no way I can cut it down or would want to.

Before I cut down the top out bumper I am going to replace it with O rings of a smaller size just to check the fork works ok with a smaller top out bumper. I will let you all know how it goes.
flag jagarcia89
O+
Posted: Dec 4, 2011 at 8:38 Quote
do NOT do any modification to your top out bumper.
flag tom-barnett
Posted: Dec 4, 2011 at 9:05 Quote
jagarcia89 wrote:
do NOT do any modification to your top out bumper.

Too late lol

I have measured it all and it seems to have had the desired effect. I am normally of the opinion that the manufacturer knows best (rather than someone with an opinion on pinkbike) but from all the mistakes I have heard with the boxxers I am thinking perhaps not. I could be wrong though.

I have kept the part of the damper so if I am I can put it back in. but now the travel has increased up to 7.5" from 7" and it is still topping out on the air side (with the bumper) and not the oil side (metal on metal) so I cannot see any problems as of yet. I hope I am not proved wrong when I ride it!
flag jagarcia89
O+
Posted: Dec 4, 2011 at 15:31 Quote
tom-barnett wrote:
jagarcia89 wrote:
do NOT do any modification to your top out bumper.

Too late lol

I have measured it all and it seems to have had the desired effect. I am normally of the opinion that the manufacturer knows best (rather than someone with an opinion on pinkbike) but from all the mistakes I have heard with the boxxers I am thinking perhaps not. I could be wrong though.

I have kept the part of the damper so if I am I can put it back in. but now the travel has increased up to 7.5" from 7" and it is still topping out on the air side (with the bumper) and not the oil side (metal on metal) so I cannot see any problems as of yet. I hope I am not proved wrong when I ride it!

I think you acted to fast. Your fork should have 8" so your problem is likely something else. Your top out spring is not in your damper so whatever damper part you have will not help you.

Some 2010 boxxers (I thought mostly teams but perhaps some WCs) were shipped with too much oil in the damper causing them to hydrolock early before a true bottom out. Chances are with less of a top out spring you'll be fine for some time, maybe for ever, but when it fails it will fail catastrophically and you'll probably trash your whole fork.

And now you're warranty is voided. I really wish you had let this discussion go a bit more before modifying what an engineer designed. Hope it works though, good luckSalute

edit: P.S. Can you post a pic of what you removed (the piece of the "damper") you still have? I think maybe some communication was lost in the terms we used to describe different parts of the fork
flag jagarcia89
O+
Posted: Dec 4, 2011 at 15:39 Quote
I'll try to find whats left of my fork where the top out spring broke, I didn't notice it and kept riding. Anyways, I was on about half a top out spring, a hard g out between 2 jumps caused a near bottom out and when I left the next jump it topped out so hard my damper topped out hard enough it sheared the bottom of the stanction off below the clip.

Then when I landed, I then had broken metal, way to much oil, and an unsupported damper in the lower which lead to a lot of damage in the lower. litterally after this sub 2 second scenario I trashed my entire fork except the air side stanction tube- all else was damaged.
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