Devinci Troy SL Limited ED, Size M MRP Ribbon fork 160mm Fox Float X2 2 Pos lever Hope Pro 4 Boost Hubs Hope Tech DH 27.5 Rims Renthal Alu HandleBar 760mm Syntace Stem 30mm XTR M988 Trail Brakes Shimano Rotors SLX M660 Cranks Shimano PF92 BB Wolftooth Narrow wide 32T Chainrings KMC 10Spd Chain SRAM 32-11T Cassette Saint M820 Shifter and Derailer CrankBrother High Line 125mm Dropper KORE Fuze saddle Shimano DX SPD pedals Maxxis Minion DHF EXO 3C TR 27.5 X 2.30 Maxxis Minion DHRII EXO 3C TR 27.5 X 2.30
How's the Ribbon treating you? likely to be my next fork. Isn't that a little upforked for the Troy? If so, a little curious how that's working out as well.
Devinci Troy SL Limited ED, Size M MRP Ribbon fork 160mm Fox Float X2 2 Pos lever Hope Pro 4 Boost Hubs Hope Tech DH 27.5 Rims Renthal Alu HandleBar 760mm Syntace Stem 30mm XTR M988 Trail Brakes Shimano Rotors SLX M660 Cranks Shimano PF92 BB Wolftooth Narrow wide 32T Chainrings KMC 10Spd Chain SRAM 32-11T Cassette Saint M820 Shifter and Derailer CrankBrother High Line 125mm Dropper KORE Fuze saddle Shimano DX SPD pedals Maxxis Minion DHF EXO 3C TR 27.5 X 2.30 Maxxis Minion DHRII EXO 3C TR 27.5 X 2.30
How's the Ribbon treating you? likely to be my next fork. Isn't that a little upforked for the Troy? If so, a little curious how that's working out as well.
Ribbon is not bad, Just need to get the right combination of Positive and negative pressure. (I'm 65kg geared, 60PSI positive air, 65PSI negative air.) Rides a little higher up in its travel though.
I'm having zero compression damping on the front fork, about 25% sag, 4 clicks of ramp up. While i set the rear at about 33%sag with some compression damping. Seems to ride "correctly" (I prefer to have slightly more travel up front, 20mm difference is OK for me)
Ribbon is not bad, Just need to get the right combination of Positive and negative pressure. (I'm 65kg geared, 60PSI positive air, 65PSI negative air.) Rides a little higher up in its travel though.
I'm having zero compression damping on the front fork, about 25% sag, 4 clicks of ramp up. While i set the rear at about 33%sag with some compression damping. Seems to ride "correctly" (I prefer to have slightly more travel up front, 20mm difference is OK for me)
Think I have similar proclivities, having to run so much sag to get any compliance on chatter with pike has been driving me nuts. On my old open bath lyrik, I ran almost no compression damping (& on that fork, backed off really did have almost no damping, unlike the Pike) & only about 10% sag. I like a supportive spring rate to do most of the work, rather than damping.
Pike is so overdamped for my preferences I've had to teach myself suspension revalving in order to get it anywhere near what I want. Still ended up dropping some pressure yesterday after the last retune. I may be screwed unless I can get more flow through the midvalve, which isn't very tunable.
Ribbon is not bad, Just need to get the right combination of Positive and negative pressure. (I'm 65kg geared, 60PSI positive air, 65PSI negative air.) Rides a little higher up in its travel though.
I'm having zero compression damping on the front fork, about 25% sag, 4 clicks of ramp up. While i set the rear at about 33%sag with some compression damping. Seems to ride "correctly" (I prefer to have slightly more travel up front, 20mm difference is OK for me)
Think I have similar proclivities, having to run so much sag to get any compliance on chatter with pike has been driving me nuts. On my old open bath lyrik, I ran almost no compression damping (& on that fork, backed off really did have almost no damping, unlike the Pike) & only about 10% sag. I like a supportive spring rate to do most of the work, rather than damping.
Pike is so overdamped for my preferences I've had to teach myself suspension revalving in order to get it anywhere near what I want. Still ended up dropping some pressure yesterday after the last retune. I may be screwed unless I can get more flow through the midvalve, which isn't very tunable.
How many tokens are you using in your Pike? How about changing the stock Compression Shim stack tune? There is a recommended Compression Shim stack configuration in the Boxxer World Cup Technical Manual (not for the pike though, but i bet they are the same) Maybe you could change your Compression tune to light.
My Previous Pike Setup: 50 PSI (for my skinny ass 63KG weight) only, with 3 Tokens. Compression is at 7 Clicks in (from full open) Rebound is at 9 Clicks in (from full open) I did change to a different oil though, with 11.4 cSt(40degrees).
The mid stroke then, was still abit pussy. Didnt have the chance to play with the shim stacks, or re-valving yet. (dont think i will ever need to, as the ribbon is serving me well now)
Ribbon is not bad, Just need to get the right combination of Positive and negative pressure. (I'm 65kg geared, 60PSI positive air, 65PSI negative air.) Rides a little higher up in its travel though.
I'm having zero compression damping on the front fork, about 25% sag, 4 clicks of ramp up. While i set the rear at about 33%sag with some compression damping. Seems to ride "correctly" (I prefer to have slightly more travel up front, 20mm difference is OK for me)
Think I have similar proclivities, having to run so much sag to get any compliance on chatter with pike has been driving me nuts. On my old open bath lyrik, I ran almost no compression damping (& on that fork, backed off really did have almost no damping, unlike the Pike) & only about 10% sag. I like a supportive spring rate to do most of the work, rather than damping.
Pike is so overdamped for my preferences I've had to teach myself suspension revalving in order to get it anywhere near what I want. Still ended up dropping some pressure yesterday after the last retune. I may be screwed unless I can get more flow through the midvalve, which isn't very tunable.
How many tokens are you using in your Pike? How about changing the stock Compression Shim stack tune? There is a recommended Compression Shim stack configuration in the Boxxer World Cup Technical Manual (not for the pike though, but i bet they are the same) Maybe you could change your Compression tune to light.
My Previous Pike Setup: 50 PSI (for my skinny ass 63KG weight) only, with 3 Tokens. Compression is at 7 Clicks in (from full open) Rebound is at 9 Clicks in (from full open) I did change to a different oil though, with 11.4 cSt(40degrees).
The mid stroke then, was still abit pussy. Didnt have the chance to play with the shim stacks, or re-valving yet. (dont think i will ever need to, as the ribbon is serving me well now)
Hope this helps.
I've already lightened it up from the RCT3 tune by pulling one of the preload shims(the broken RC tune is a whole other issue in itself, swapping to the RCT3 tune actually made the fork ridable.) The problem, at least from what I hear from people who are tuning these things for a living, is that the midvalve restricts max flow to the compression circuit to the point that moving any lighter on the compression circuit won't make a difference, because you can't flow enough oil to the compression circuit to take advantage of the lighter tune. My latest tuning effort was an attempt to up the flow rate through the midvalve by lightening the rebound checkshim, which was a long shot (I bought the lighter shim from Steve At Vorsprung, & he expressed doubt it would make a difference. A claim I feel is validated after riding it with the lighter shim. I didn't notice a huge difference.) It seems like what I need to do to is either increase the port size in the piston, or increase the amount of float allowed to the rebound checkshim, but both require machining, & I'm not sure I'm ready to go that far. I may validate all these results at some point by going silly light on the compression side & see how it feels, if the above is right, it'll still feel strongly damped.
It's worth noting that every aftermarket drop in tune, or upgraded cartridge, be it FAST, Avalanche, or the Ohlins rebound piston swap, increases the midvalve flow rate, but uses a stiffer compression stack than stock.
Some awesome bikes on here, coming from DH I was familiar with the Wilson but didn't know much about Devinci's other models until I was looking for something a bit different to replace my Remedy. Really happy with how the build has turned out although the previous owner of the frame put a longer shock in it so I believe the travel is nearer 160mm. Ideally I'd like to put the standard shock back in to allow me to run it in the slack setting.
Keep in mind that because you're running a longer stroke shock you need to keep it in the short/steep/tall setting to avoid seatstay seattube contact at full bottom out. At least it is like that on my medium.
Yeah cheers, don't want frame on frame contact. Which combination did you prefer on your Troy the longer stroke shock and the steep setting or the standard shock and the slack setting?
I was running a longer shock in my '16 Troy for most of the past year. I recently went back to the standard shock and with the help of a shockwiz have managed to get it really well dialed, so much so that I'm not missing the longer shock at all...
(Low tune Monarch, 3 bands / tokens, 205 PSI, 83KG body weight, flip chips in low position)
Yeah cheers, don't want frame on frame contact. Which combination did you prefer on your Troy the longer stroke shock and the steep setting or the standard shock and the slack setting?
I prefer the standard shock slack setting. Only reason I was running the longer shock is I had to send my normal shock in for warranty and I had the longer stroke one to use while I waited.