On the other hand, I have a Felt aluminum bike with carbon forks and it really smooths out the road when riding over cobblestones and the like. I can't feel a difference when riding smooth pavement, tho. Saves a few grams, but so does wearing thinner socks I suppose.
kinny - provided it is actually the correct size..... maybe wrap some fine sandpaper on a wooden dowel and scrub some of that stuff out. *(or just wrap a sturdy sheet of it into a tube and go at it). Clean it out with some brake cleaner after then lube it with any grease. You could use wd40 too. that way it washes out the rust dust and tosses a coat of protection on the inside of the steel tube.
turn the frame upside down when you are doing this so that shit doesn't go down in the bottom bracket. unless you have the BB removed for servicing, which isn't a bad idea.
shit vaseline would probably work too, (you probably have a tub handy while awaiting that conjugal with your lady JK bro,.....).
you've had bikes and have a couple now so I'm sure you have SOME kind of lubricant around....chain lube, whatever. anything would work. just be judicious on how much you use. you don't want that seatpost and seatpost hole "stripper riding a f*ck machine" level lubed.....
The best tool for the job would be a flex hone; whichever size is slightly larger than the inner diameter of your seat tube. Soak it in WD-40 and spin it in a drill while the bike is upside down, as mentioned, to let the rust slurry safely drain out.
Even with an intact high-end frame and post, it's still a good idea to either use grease or (with carbon fibre) friction paste. It can prevent creaking, but more importantly it means you'll actually be able to get that seatpost out again.
great advice barp..! and yes, drill spin with a wd40 soak would be perfect...!!!
I have several different size flex hones but not one that would fit down a 26.8 or 27.2 diam seat tube. I know kinny's on a budget so I made assumptions about what he may have on hand which may not include some of these unique tools.
Anyways....bad friend moment kinny ....my bad
Sometimes my own dirt poor background makes me go full MacGuiver on recommendations regardless of the range of unique tools I've amassed over the years to fix anything from toasters to two-strokes, radios to Rasta-man's pipe.
anyways kinny - a stick of gum, a paperclip, and a AA battery should get you where you need to be
Sometimes my own dirt poor background makes me go full MacGuiver on recommendations regardless of the range of unique tools I've amassed over the years to fix anything from toasters to two-strokes, radios to Rasta-man's pipe.
anyways kinny - a stick of gum, a paperclip, and a AA battery should get you where you need to be
No worries my friend. I still appreciate your advice.
And - Luckily prizing the seatpost clamp a tiny bit with a screwdriver helped.
Thanks for the flex hone tip, I hadn’t heard of that tool before. It’s exactly what I need for my 53 Schwinn Wasp project. The stem was totally seized in the steerer tube with the bolt broken off inside the wedge, I was finally able to get it out with some sewing machine oil and a hammer. There’s still a lot of corrosion in there though and the replacement stem won’t go in now.
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JK bro,.....). 
